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[HogHvn]

My 2010 FLHXSE is in need of rear brake pads. What is my best option? OEM? Lyndall?

[moscooter]

 
I'll defer to others to give you advice on which pads to use for replacement.  but meantime,  as I recall the "drill",  you will need a 12 point 1/4" socket for removal of the old pads and a (large) Phillips screwdriver as a (centering tool) to line up the holes in the caliper and pads for the re-installation.

[Para Bellum]

I've had very good performance from the Lyndall pads; used both red (when golds weren't available) and gold.  Lyndall 7254.

[MrSurly]

I highly recommend EBC 'HH' sintered metal pads. I've been running them for years and they are great. Very nearly dustless, fade proof, quiet, unperturbed by rain or heavy use.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mark]

I'm about to need pads too.  Wouldn't this be a good time to replace the brake fluid too?  Was planning on using a vacuum, like the Mity Mite, and draw out the old fluid as I add the new so the reservoir and lines are never empty.  Thoughts?

[MrSurly]

I'm about to need pads too.  Wouldn't this be a good time to replace the brake fluid too?  Was planning on using a vacuum, like the Mity Mite, and draw out the old fluid as I add the new so the reservoir and lines are never empty.  Thoughts?

If you DON'T have ABS, just use a piece of rubber tubing into a bottle and bleed the old out while adding the new.

If you have ABS, bleeding/ changing is more involved and requires the digi-tool. Unless you are having issues or have a whole lot of miles, I would not bother changing the fluid.

[Para Bellum]

Wouldn't this be a good time to replace the brake fluid too?

Brake fluid absorbs water, which can cause brakes to fail, especially under high heat/heavy use.
Service manual calls for fluid replacement every 2 years.  If it's been 3 years, I absolutely would do it.

[SmokeyJoe]

You can bleed your brakes the old fashion way even with the ABS.  I have changed my fluid this way without issues.

[grc]

You can bleed your brakes the old fashion way even with the ABS.  I have changed my fluid this way without issues.

   If you change fluid by adding new at one end while you remove old at the other end, and never admit any air into the system during that process, then you're absolutely correct.  The only time using a scan tool to cycle the ABS pump and valves is absolutely necessary is if you have air in the system, or if you are anal and want to make sure you get 100% of the old fluid out of the system.

Jerry

[mark]

SmokeyJoe/Jerry...thanks.

[dirtyjim]

Surly I would like to know the name of the dust less pads and a source

[MrSurly]

Surly I would like to know the name of the dust less pads and a source

Oh! I've been away and only just now saw the request.
EBC Brakes Double-H sintered
http://www.easternperformance.com/harley-parts-accessories/motorcycle-aftermarket-brakes-calipers-pads-lines/brake-pads/ebc-sintered-hh-front-or-rear-brake-pads-for-08-up-harley-v-rod-dresser.html

[Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle]

If you DON'T have ABS, just use a piece of rubber tubing into a bottle and bleed the old out while adding the new.

If you have ABS, bleeding/ changing is more involved and requires the digi-tool. Unless you are having issues or have a whole lot of miles, I would not bother changing the fluid.

Actually you can bleed an ABS brake system normally as long as you don't run the system dry.  The Digital Tech is used to cycle the internal ABS valving when replacing the unit or lines and you have introduced air into the ABS unit itself.

When the ABS system is at rest, the fluid is bypassing the internal valving so conventional bleeding is possible. 

[SmokeyJoe]

I may get some disbelievers, but this was my experience.

I am sure most of the regulars here read my thread about the melted Lyndall composite rotor.  What I did not write about was the extent I had to go to clean up the mess.  The rotor literally fused itself to my brake calipers.  I had to remove the caliper from the bike and takes it apart to remove the molten mess. 

I then put everything back together and began bleeding the brakes as you would in the good ole days.

I had/have no issues with my brakes.  I dont know but maybe 7 weeks later I asked the HD tech to bleed them, when he finished he said he did not notice any air in lines.

Maybe just dumb luck???