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Author Topic: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit  (Read 26530 times)

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Twolanerider

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Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« on: April 21, 2007, 02:06:11 AM »

Was reminded this evening that this had never been posted after it came up in discussion in another thread a couple of weeks ago.  If anyone is interested in retrofitting the power saddlebag locks from the 2007 bikes in to previous models it's not a terribly difficult thing to do.  Remainder of this thread will illustrate the install and detail the do-s and don't-s.

First thing to mention is the parts to do the job are surprisingly few in notated HD part numbers.  Also surprisingly inexpensive (relative to common HD standards on such things).  Ordered from Zanotti (far and away the cheapest) the entire parts list was approximately $275.00.  Only costs above that were a few bucks worth of wire.

That wire, however, is the only part that might push some people off this task.  At least right now Harley will sell all the mechanical parts, motors, etc.  They don't have a separate part number for the wire harness to tie it all together though.

Even though it is effectively a stand-alone harness I assume it must be supplied on the SEUCs wrapped within the main harness's insulator.  No part number for the saddlebag lock harness.  So you've got to build your own.  Fortunately it's a simple little harness.  Even more fortunately you can find a schematic for it. 

That schematic is the image attached to this post.  Notes are added to the schematic in four places.  One is a hand drawn diagram of the relays.  You'll use two of these.  They are identical parts.  They are wired differently.  But the relays themselves are identical.

Note the two legs marked as ground wires.  In the larger schematic page they end up in different locations.  Don't let that worry you.  Ground is ground.  You're making your own harness anyway.  So bring them out of the harness wrap close to a good ground point and bolt them down at the same place.  No big deal.  I grounded mine at the bolt on the right side of the frame close to the cruise control switch in the throttle cable.

Another leg is marked as the power wire.  You don't want this hot all the time.  You only want it hot when you've turned the switch on.  If you walk away from the bike with switch unlocked now anyone will be able to turn the switch on and push the button to unlock your saddlebags.  Just something to keep in mind.

I powered it from the back of the lighter.  That location is already fused in a place that doesn't require pulling the fairing.  There is no draw from the new locks during running operation of the bike.  So it's an easy and obvious place to power the system.

Last note is of a diode that must be installed between the legs that run back to the saddlebags.  The motors in the saddlebags operating these locks don't have separate ground, lock and unlock wires.  Just two legs run to them.  With the relays used as they are those two legs alternate between grounding and lock or unlock functions.  Because of that wiring scheme you need this diode installed between those legs.

« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:42:12 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2007, 02:09:58 AM »

If you click on the schematic image it will blow up to a usable size.  The only other line drawing I'll supply is the parts breakdown for the saddlebag itself from an 07 manual (thanks again Gene!).

This parts breakdown is supplied for general orientation purposes.  The images to follow will likely prove to be more helpful.

The only parts needed that aren't illustrated in this breakdown are the pieces of the harness you'll build for the bike and a new lock tumbler for the saddlebag latch.  That tumbler is in the lid breakdown.  But it's the only piece different up there. 

The tumbler is a new 07 part number.  You can order it keyed to match prior year bikes though.  The part number for the locks is for a pair.  So just order a qty 1 of the part number.  Otherwise you'll have spare parts.

One note, ordering the keyed to match locks gets you a spare set of keys supplied along with them.  So that's a bit of a side benefit.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2007, 12:31:10 PM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2007, 02:12:50 AM »

This is the parts group used inside the saddlebag.  It is all supplied as one kit part number.  One part number for the left side and one for the right side. 

Note that in this photo is the blank switch cover that had already been removed from the fairing.  It obviously isn't part of the saddlebag parts.  Sorry 'bout that.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2007, 02:14:48 AM »

Other parts needed will be two of this relay.  You could just crimp terminals on to your wires and plug them on to the back of each relay.  I went ahead and ordered the (cheap) little relay mounting block and used factory style crimps and the more secure mounting of the relays that the block allowed.  Didn't take any more time and allowed for a much neater and more secure harness.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2007, 02:17:02 AM »

If you don't have one you'll need a tool to make this type of crimp.  Some of these are pretty pricey.  If you won't use it enough to justify the cost, however, go visit Radio Shack.  They have a tool for about 20 bucks that will make this crimp.  You might wreck a terminal (or three or four) getting them all done.  But the terminals are cheap.  So it's a cost effective trade off if you dont' already have the crimper.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:45:42 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2007, 02:21:49 AM »

Mentioned previously was the diode that must be installed inline between the lock/unlock wires going to the saddlebag motors.  This diode is just a diode.  Nothing special at all. 

It must be installed in the legs going to the rear of the bike BEFORE they split off to each saddlebag.  Otherwise you'd only have it's protection for one saddlebag.

I built the harness within the bike so as to be able to just lay wires out and get accurate measurements for plug and terminal locations without actually having to measure anything.  There is, therefore, no image of a completed harness laying outside the bike.  Doing it within the bike, however, is the easiest way to get it done for a one-off.  Follow the schematic and make it fit.  You'll be fine.

The diode, seen here, need not get any special install method either.  Just cut the two wires going to the rear.  Connect the diode between them.  And continue them on to the rear.  It all gets hidden inside your heat shrink tubing, rubber wrap or whatever else you're using to make for an attractive OE-appearing harness anyway.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:48:19 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2007, 02:23:42 AM »

The lock-unlock switch is another of the very few part numbers needed to do this.   The bracket seen here holding the new switch and the spotlight switch is the bracket already on the bike.  Nothing extra to buy.  Just push out the switch blank and put the new switch in its place.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2007, 02:26:00 AM »

Each of the switch pods is held on the fairing cap with a couple of screws.  If you're unsure about removing your ignition switch to get the fairing cap on and off check your service manual (Clymer, HD or others).  It's not difficult for 05 and prior.  It can be tricky for 06 and newer with the new igntion switch.  So be careful.  Not hard, just tricky on 06 and up.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:49:28 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2007, 02:26:39 AM »

When installed it's just another switch in the pod (now suddenly I'm hearing Pink Floyd  :nixweiss: ).
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:50:24 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2007, 02:32:28 AM »

As mentioned previously building the harness in the bike does make it simpler.  For general guidelines, however, the following will work:

The three wires wrapped together that go to the switch can dive under the main harness, below and to the left of the radio to reach up and plug in to the switch pigtail.

The power legs can go over the radio strapped to the main harness to visit the back of the lighter socket.  Both of these runs can meet at a spot on the upper right between the fairing bracket and the speaker.  There's plenty of dead space up there to hold the relay pack.

Bring it all together in this area at the relay pack.  Separate wraps of the run to the switch, the run to power and the long run out of the relay pack to the saddlebags at the back of the bike. 

As that run comes down the frame bring the two ground wires out.  Put a single terminal on both of them.  Ground the harness on the right side of the frame at the grounding location already used there.  It's close to the cruise switch in the throttle cable.  Be sure and leave enough slack in this harness that the handlebars and fairing turn without tugging on the new harness.  If you just track it along the existing harness that runs along the frame you'll be fine.

The harness will continue back underneath the tank, split to the right and left side behind the battery and eventually meet the new plugs that will come out of each saddlebag.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:53:14 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2007, 02:33:42 AM »

Before it was wrapped and tidied up.  You'll have 10 legs in the back of the relay pack.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:18:02 AM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2007, 02:38:14 AM »

Once the harness is made and has reached the rear of the bike the rest of the install is within each saddlebag.  Illustrations here will be within the left bag.  Just a mirror image on the other side.

You don't have to pull the lid off.  I did because I couldn't hold camera, lid, other parts and scratch my butt all at the same time. 

This new bracket installs on the rear two of the four screws that go through the outboard side of the saddlebag.  The cloth part that keeps the lid from opening too far must come off.  So be sure and put a towel or something else between the lid latch and bag to protect things.

Note which holes in this bracket get the screws.  Also note the large hole in the lower center.  New parts will go through that hole.  That hole doesn't exist in the saddlebag to begin with.  Making it is part of the job.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2007, 11:19:21 PM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2007, 02:40:06 AM »

Easiest way to make this hole is to use a right angle drill with a small bit.  Working from the inside drill a small pilot hole in the center of the hole in the bracket.  Then working from the outside use that pilot hole to complete an 11/32" hole through the saddlebag. 

If you're willing to break off an 11/32" bit so that it's short enough to use on a right angle drill within the saddlebag the bracket could be used as a guide for that hole in one pass.  Short of having a very short 11/32" bit, however, make a small hole from the inside and finish it from the outside where you've got more room to work.

These holes can be drilled even if the saddlebag lid is attached.  Mount the cable bracket.  Remove the lock tumbler.  Drill the pilot hole through the center of the hole in the cable bracket.  Then drill the larger hole from the outside through the pilot hole you just created.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2007, 11:22:50 PM by Twolanerider »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #13 on: April 21, 2007, 02:43:43 AM »

This locking pawl, spacer and spring are supposed to come through that hole from the outside.  An arm that attaches to the cable attaches to this pawl on the inside and is held in place with the E clip seen here.

I say these parts are "supposed" to come through from the outside because the spring was a pain in the butt.  It didn't keep spacing correct as it was supposed to.  I ended up using only the black spacer on the outside.  Picture in a moment will show what was done on the inside to compensate.  Ended up being a much easier assembly and the lock system still works like butter.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Power Saddlebag Locks from 2007 Retrofit
« Reply #14 on: April 21, 2007, 02:45:30 AM »

This is the arm on the inside that attaches to the cable from the motor.  There's a hex shank on the pawl's shaft and a mating hole in this arm.  That's what allows one to drive the other.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2007, 03:20:21 AM by Twolanerider »
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