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Author Topic: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.  (Read 22703 times)

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Cowboy2

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #30 on: August 17, 2011, 08:45:42 PM »

No way Biker Boy, you are RIGHT ON Man..  :2vrolijk_21:

As an Engineer, I would have to say there is no way HD made the GDO not included into the Australian CVO...  It would be cheaper just to leave it in, but not include the receiver due to the voltage difference.   What I am thinking is the adapter is only the size of a tennis ball, and all we have to do is buy that "Receiver" you are talking about from HD and plug it into the wall outlet adapter.   :bananarock:

So Brothers, what I am getting is your CVO's come with that receiver ??  Cool....
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Twolanerider

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #31 on: August 17, 2011, 09:49:45 PM »


As an Engineer, I would have to say there is no way HD made the GDO not included into the Australian CVO...  It would be cheaper just to leave it in, but not include the receiver due to the voltage difference.   What I am thinking is the adapter is only the size of a tennis ball, and all we have to do is buy that "Receiver" you are talking about from HD and plug it into the wall outlet adapter.   :bananarock:

So Brothers, what I am getting is your CVO's come with that receiver ??  Cool....

That would be contrary to what's been the history with these things.  The transmitter is rougly the size of a deck of cards.  Thinner, narrower but a bit longer.  It's just a plug in accessory though.  Easily added to or omitted from a bike going down the line. 

Non-US riders have wondered about the GDO before.  Some have bought the parts.  I've even mailed a couple sets overseas to guys doing it.  Don't remember any finding the transmitter in the bike to begin with.  Assembly line installer could always screw up and plug in something that wasn't intended to be there.  Having the transmitter would be outside the norm though.
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Para Bellum

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #32 on: August 18, 2011, 02:04:30 AM »

Dags are the little brown balls hanging off sheeps wool around their tails...  

Those would be "dingle-berries" here.
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mrmagloo

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #33 on: August 18, 2011, 11:04:44 AM »

Here's the wiring diagram someone posted earlier that I used for my 2006 SEUC and a 2010 Ultra Classic, and it worked fine.

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Heatwave

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #34 on: August 18, 2011, 12:12:50 PM »

Here's the wiring diagram someone posted earlier that I used for my 2006 SEUC and a 2010 Ultra Classic, and it worked fine.



I don't believe this wiring diagram takes into account that the CVO Ultra has the Garage Door Opener activated by flashing the hi/lo beams. I would be interested if anyone used this schematic on a CVO Ultra and whether or not they lost the function of their GDO.
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grc

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #35 on: August 18, 2011, 01:16:26 PM »

I don't believe this wiring diagram takes into account that the CVO Ultra has the Garage Door Opener activated by flashing the hi/lo beams. I would be interested if anyone used this schematic on a CVO Ultra and whether or not they lost the function of their GDO.

It doesn't matter.  The wiring for the headlight remains the same as before, the only difference is the power to the spot light switch is taken from a different source.  This mod has been used by hundreds if not thousands of other CVO owners, and most CVO Touring models have come with the Garage Door Opener.  I'm not aware of anyone reporting that this mod caused their GDO to quit operating.

Perhaps what you are thinking of is the issues some have had when changing the actual headlights to HID or LED.  Depending on model year, that can cause the GDO to stop working until a workaround is applied to the wiring.


Jerry
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Heatwave

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #36 on: August 18, 2011, 01:31:06 PM »

It doesn't matter.  The wiring for the headlight remains the same as before, the only difference is the power to the spot light switch is taken from a different source.  This mod has been used by hundreds if not thousands of other CVO owners, and most CVO Touring models have come with the Garage Door Opener.  I'm not aware of anyone reporting that this mod caused their GDO to quit operating.

Perhaps what you are thinking of is the issues some have had when changing the actual headlights to HID or LED.  Depending on model year, that can cause the GDO to stop working until a workaround is applied to the wiring.


Jerry

I've read several posts on another forum where individuals changed the wiring at the handlebar control to retain power for the spotlights even when the hi beams were switched on. The downside to the approach was that the change resulted in their garage door opener not operating even though the spots worked with the Hi beam. I wanted to ensure that this wiring diagram (which I've seen multiple times before) won't impact the GDO. I don't doubt you that it would work however it would certainly be helpful to hear from someone that made this change on a CVO Ultra to confirm their GDO's operation wasn't impacted.
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Boatman

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #37 on: August 18, 2011, 01:48:51 PM »

FWIW-

I did the pictured mod on my 05 SEEG2 and everything worked.

I tried this pictured mod on my 10 and the driving lights would not stay on with high beams (didn't try the opener).

From about 08 and up, the driving light/cruise switch is actually a module (as others have stated).

I have also read as Heatwave stated that you can do something in the handlebar switch but I don't like to work with wiring in cramped quarters and also still want the GDO..

I put a xenon light in for my low beams and run them with my driving lights. 


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Heatwave

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #38 on: August 18, 2011, 02:00:13 PM »

FWIW-

I did the pictured mod on my 05 SEEG2 and everything worked.

I tried this pictured mod on my 10 and the driving lights would not stay on with high beams (didn't try the opener).

From about 08 and up, the driving light/cruise switch is actually a module (as others have stated).

I have also read as Heatwave stated that you can do something in the handlebar switch but I don't like to work with wiring in cramped quarters and also still want the GDO..

I put a xenon light in for my low beams and run them with my driving lights. 




This is my understanding as well. To date I have not read of anyone with a 2009 or higher CVO Ultra that has rewired their spots lights to operate with their HI-beam and did NOT end up losing their GDO. The only person I've read that achieved the spots with hi-beam and a functional GDO had their dealer do the wiring.

That explains why I would like to hear from any 2009 and newer CVO Ultras that have rewired their spots themselves to operate with the hi-beams and still had a functioning GDO. Any insight on how they did it would be much appreciated.
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mrmagloo

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #39 on: August 18, 2011, 04:45:17 PM »

Heatwave - The yellow wire which effects the positive side of the relay, has nothing whatsoever to do with the Garage Door Opener. I tried the other method first using the headlamp leads, and that DID negatively effect the GDO.

Also, this is NOT at the handle bar controls, but in the location of the switches in the panel by the ignition switch.  I just told you I did this on a 2010, and it worked fine. Certainly your mileage may vary, but this is a VERY easy job, and the good thing is, if it doesn't work, it's easily reversable.
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Heatwave

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #40 on: August 18, 2011, 05:07:45 PM »

Heatwave - The yellow wire which effects the positive side of the relay, has nothing whatsoever to do with the Garage Door Opener. I tried the other method first using the headlamp leads, and that DID negatively effect the GDO.

Also, this is NOT at the handle bar controls, but in the location of the switches in the panel by the ignition switch.  I just told you I did this on a 2010, and it worked fine. Certainly your mileage may vary, but this is a VERY easy job, and the good thing is, if it doesn't work, it's easily reversable.

Thanks for the assistance and my apologies for being alittle slow. Can you walk me through the steps again. I assume I need to remove the ignition switch and the rocker switch panel cover to fully access under the spots switch. Based on the diagram, I want to cut the yellow lead going to the spots switch. Seal off the end of the yellow wire that goes to the spots. Take the yellow wire from the spots switch and tap it into the hot orange lead running into the accessories switch. Is that right?

Is there enough slack/extra wire in the yellow spots lead to reach the accessory switch without splicing in an extension? I assume the switch function remains unchanged and will light up when its turned on and the spots switch light will turn off when the rocker is turned off.

I think I've seen a YouTube video showing how to remove the ignition switch. Are there any other tips you can offer? Thanks again for the patience.
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copout221

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #41 on: August 18, 2011, 08:12:19 PM »

I did this mod last night on my 2010 and the GDO still works as designed. After you get the switch panel removed there is a sold state relay that is mounted behind the cruise / spot switch. There is a YELLOW wire that supplies 12v when the low beam is on but you lose the voltage when the high beam switch is activated. I cut the yellow wire before it enters the fairing and capped the end that proceeds into the batwing fairing. When I cut it I made sure that the end that goes into the relay had enough slack to reach the wires that come off of the back of the ACC switch. The wires on the ACC switch are both orange and you want the lower orange wire that is always energized when the ign is on. The upper orange wire is cycled by the ACC switch so if that wire is used you would always need to make sure the ACC switch is on for the spots to work. I tied the yellow wire into the lower orange and made sure the connections were secure and sealed. I used a few wire ties to make everything look nice and re-installed the switch panel. The spots now work with both low and high beam lamps activated plus the spot switch still operates as designed. It is really a simple mod that shouldn't take more than an hour to complete.
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Heatwave

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #42 on: August 18, 2011, 09:31:44 PM »

Mr. Magloo...Thanks for the assistance. I did the wiring as you stated and the spots now work with both Hi and Lo beams and the GDO works as well. All is good and the job took about 30-45 mins.
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Heatwave

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #43 on: August 19, 2011, 08:16:03 AM »

I did this mod last night on my 2010 and the GDO still works as designed. After you get the switch panel removed there is a sold state relay that is mounted behind the cruise / spot switch. There is a YELLOW wire that supplies 12v when the low beam is on but you lose the voltage when the high beam switch is activated. I cut the yellow wire before it enters the fairing and capped the end that proceeds into the batwing fairing. When I cut it I made sure that the end that goes into the relay had enough slack to reach the wires that come off of the back of the ACC switch. The wires on the ACC switch are both orange and you want the lower orange wire that is always energized when the ign is on. The upper orange wire is cycled by the ACC switch so if that wire is used you would always need to make sure the ACC switch is on for the spots to work. I tied the yellow wire into the lower orange and made sure the connections were secure and sealed. I used a few wire ties to make everything look nice and re-installed the switch panel. The spots now work with both low and high beam lamps activated plus the spot switch still operates as designed. It is really a simple mod that shouldn't take more than an hour to complete.

I just thought I would mention that there were 2 plugs on my switch cover wiring before the wiring went into the fairing. Once I had the ignition switch off and the 2 screws on the sides removed, it was a simple matter of disconnecting the 2 plugs and the entire swich cover could be removed and brought in the house to do the wiring. I cut the yellow wire about 2 inches from the plug I disconnected. I also cut the red/orange wire  about 1-2 inches from the Aux switch housing (the orange stripe is very faint but it is there). I then twisted the yellow wire from the spots together with the orange/red from the Aux switch wire I just cut. Stripped both ends and twisted them together. Used a butt connector. Then connected the other end of the Orange/Red wire to the other end of the butt connector. Crimped and heat shrink. Then took the free yellow wire I cut, put some liquid electric tape on the cut end and a heat shrink to finish it off.

Buttoned it all back together and tested the GDO and spots. Everything works as it should.
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mrmagloo

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Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
« Reply #44 on: August 19, 2011, 11:27:30 AM »

Good news guys. Now, go and buy a set of the Truck Lite LED passing lights, and those will rock your world! Everyone in my crew refuses to ride in front of me, so I'm forced to lead all of the time.
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