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[conmore]

Hi there

As a very new member to this forum I thought I'd post my first minor annoyance with my new CVO SG. I read a post that was posted much earlier in the year so rather than tag that one I thought I'd start one fresh.

Seems a few owners have been bothered by the same problem and the dealers just kinda shrug their shoulders and say they "all do it".

I'm just wondering how easy it is to rectify yourself and exactly what you used to make it work quietly. The rattle particularly on decel is pretty annoying.

I have small circlip pliers to remove the snap ring, but after that I'm not sure what to use. Bike has only covered 200 klms.

Cheers

[Tyson]

I had the same problem and the dealer put in a thin plastic washer/shim in there and it solved the problem.

[PeterJ]

Funny you should mention about the clutch lever rattle. A little annoying is that rattle and I will ask stealership to put a nylon washer on the fitting when I bring in my SE3 for some work in a few weeks time. Thanks for the tip Tyson.
Ride safe all.

[conmore]

I had the same problem and the dealer put in a thin plastic washer/shim in there and it solved the problem.

Hi there

You wouldn't happen to know what thickness by any chance as in .025" or thicker etc.

Cheers

[Cvostu]

I had a local repair shop use a thin copper washer and solved my loose clutch lever.     Can't believe how sloppy it was before the fix.

[Wanna Ride]

I made a little washer out of plastic butter tub. I know, I know... sounds trailer-park, but it worked. Tore it apart and didn't know what I'd need until after it was apart. Looked at it and said to myself, " well, this is an easy fix". Put it back together and it's been silent ever since.

[conmore]

I made a little washer out of plastic butter tub. I know, I know... sounds trailer-park, but it worked. Tore it apart and didn't know what I'd need until after it was apart. Looked at it and said to myself, " well, this is an easy fix". Put it back together and it's been silent ever since.

Hi there

Well you know what they say: neccessity is the mother of invention and if it works, great! Now you say you tore it apart, so you can tell me what happens after you remove the snap ring and the pin it attaches to? If I then pull the lever out of the housing will there be other bits that fall out or apart? It's a bit hard without an exploded view of the clutch lever assembly.  
Cheers

[PeterJ]

Hi there

Well you know what they say: neccessity is the mother of invention and if it works, great! Now you say you tore it apart, so you can tell me what happens after you remove the snap ring and the pin it attaches to? If I then pull the lever out of the housing will there be other bits that fall out or apart? It's a bit hard without an exploded view of the clutch lever assembly.  
Cheers

Here you go
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies//showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=hdmc&A=873&B=22&vehicleid=2012-Harley-Davidson-Street-Bike-FLHXSE3-CVO-STREET-GLIDE%AE-(PZ)-CLUTCH-LEVER-ASSEMBLY
A nice exoded view if the lever assembly.
Ride safe.

[1abastarsmda]

I have the same problem and after looking at the exploded view, now I still want to know if any of those little parts in the diagram, that don't have part number listed, will fall out if I remove the lever.  Those other parts look like they come as part of the lever assembly (#20) in the diagram.  Are they attached to the lever or will they fall out upon removal of the lever?

[conmore]

I have the same problem and after looking at the exploded view, now I still want to know if any of those little parts in the diagram, that don't have part number listed, will fall out if I remove the lever.  Those other parts look like they come as part of the lever assembly (#20) in the diagram.  Are they attached to the lever or will they fall out upon removal of the lever?

Hi there

Thanks to PeterJ for the microfiche site, very handy indeed!!!! And ditto to the post quoted??

Cheers

[dayne66]

This little improvement is on the 'winter to do list'>

[krypto2011]

I never noticed if I had a clutch lever rattle or not. Hell who could here it over the top end rattle these things have anyway???  I know that's a whole different thread but OMG.

[Tyson]

I'm not sure on the thickness of the washer. He just said it was so thin it's more like a shim.

[Cvostu]

That copper washer that was used on my lever had to be sanded down some.   It's very thin but solves the issue.   Mine was really sloppy too.

[dayne66]

What's the ID and OD of this washer.....I'm going to look at work for something that'll work.

[Screamin' Al]

I have the same problem and after looking at the exploded view, now I still want to know if any of those little parts in the diagram, that don't have part number listed, will fall out if I remove the lever.  Those other parts look like they come as part of the lever assembly (#20) in the diagram.  Are they attached to the lever or will they fall out upon removal of the lever?

Without refrerence to my bike, as its 1000 miles from me at present, I thought it would be possible to extract the pin just far enough to insert the shim between the bottom of the lever and the assembly. Pushing it into place with a feeler guage, then pushing the pin down through.

Just a thought...

[dirtdobber]

Go to lowes or auto parts and get a thin plastic washer. or order on from Honda they use them every where on their bikes. They put them behind the allen screws on the breathers, dashes.
I keep my tunes so loud I can't hear it any way LOL

[conmore]

Hi there

Finally got enough time to do this "fix". What I ended up doing was:

I used clean feeler gauges to determine the thickness of a washer needed to take out the slack but not bind the lever.

Removed the snap ring and measured the OD of the clevis pin.

Used a .030" washer made out of the lid of an ice-cream container. I have a set of metric wad punches with an inbuilt centre punch, so I punched out 16 mm (0.630") OD and 6 mm (0.235") ID washer from the lid. Cleared out the ID to 6.4 mm (0.250"). Slipped it in between the housing and the lever and positioned it with a feeler gauge. Pushed the pin home and checked it for binding. Re-installed the snap ring!

Thanks to everyone that offered advice and help. Much appreciated.
Cheers

[1abastarsmda]

It sure sounds easier to just buy a plastic washer.  If anyone buys one that works, could you please post the size you bought and where you got it.  Thanks.

[Cvostu]

Didn't think plastic would hold up for me.   I can break anything,,,  I used a copper washer.  Very thin and all fixed.   

[1abastarsmda]

Didn't think plastic would hold up for me.   I can break anything,,,  I used a copper washer.  Very thin and all fixed.   

Okay, then what size copper washer?  I'm not taking it apart until I have the correct fix in hand.  I may not have to do anything, as my bike is in the shop for an extended stay there, and hopefully they will remember to fix this also.

[conmore]

It sure sounds easier to just buy a plastic washer.  If anyone buys one that works, could you please post the size you bought and where you got it.  Thanks.

Hi there

Yes absolutely, couldn't agree more but I tried a couple of places and the washers they had were 1 mm or .040" thick which was excessive. Copper washer would have done better because I could have taken it down with wet and dry on a sheet of glass or the like. Anyway my "washer" works so far

Cheers

[Cvostu]

Not exactly sure what the size is.   Very thin and just big enough to pass the pin through.

[1abastarsmda]

Okay, I fixed mine tonight.  I bought a package of 4 vinyl washers at Lowe's.  Cost $.56.  That's enough to do 4 bikes.  Here's the package with the size and UPC code.  This should make it pretty easy to find the correct size.  I pulled the pin out, and pulled the lever out, the put a little silicone on the washer so I could stick it in place on the lever, then put the lever back in place, and pushed the pin back through.  I put the washer on the top side of the lever, as that made it easy to see when the washer was lined up in the hole.  Since the washer did move a little, I just stuck a small screwdriver in the hole first to move the washer into place.

Here's the toughest part.  If you don't have a set of Retaining Ring Pliers http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947411000P , you may want to take the washer to the dealer and ask them to put it in for you.  I found the retaining ring a real pain to remove and then good luck finding it when it flies across the garage.  I found mine when I was on the phone with a friend asking him to pick me up another one if he was at the dealer this week.  I got very lucky.  Putting it back on went very smoothly.

[1abastarsmda]

Here's what the washers look like.

[dayne66]

Look for this to be a new product from the MOCO....priced somewhere north of $5.00.....with a minimum 1 hr install. WARNINGUsing a non-MOCO washer may void your warranty.

[Aussie]

Hi there

Well you know what they say: neccessity is the mother of invention and if it works, great! Now you say you tore it apart, so you can tell me what happens after you remove the snap ring and the pin it attaches to? If I then pull the lever out of the housing will there be other bits that fall out or apart? It's a bit hard without an exploded view of the clutch lever assembly.  
Cheers

conmore,
After reading your post I put a spacer in my clutch lever assembly as well. Didn't feel right compaired to my other bikes.

Here is what I did,
*Removed c-clip
*Removed pivot pin
*Removed clutch lever (no loose bits to fall out)
*Measured housing that clutch lever fits in. (18.5mm) 0.725"
*Measured clutch lever thickness (17.1mm) 0.673"
*Total clearance was (1.4mm) 0.052"(to much for my liking)
*Fit a nylon washer I had in my box of goodies ((20mm) 0.787:dia X (0.9mm) 0.035"thick with a (6.4mm) 0.252"dia hole)
*Lube pin while it was out (pin was very dry when I removed it)

Clutch lever feels 100% better and smoother  

[Cvostu]

Great job!

[Wanna Ride]

Amazes me how many guys can't do something this simple themselves, or can conceive how to make a plastic shim.

A pair of scissors, a hole punch, and a pair of snap-ring pliers is all that's needed to make and install this. I keep an old plastic milk jug (HDPE) in the garage to make these kinds of shims. HDPE is easily worked, but has a high shear factor, excellent for these kinds of applications.

The shim itself doesn't eliminate the rattle, it just eliminates the two pieces of metal from contacting each other, and that's where the noise comes from. The vibration is still there, it's just silenced now.

[Jswerve]

Amazes me how many guys can't do something this simple themselves, or can conceive how to make a plastic shim.

A pair of scissors, a hole punch, and a pair of snap-ring pliers is all that's needed to make and install this. I keep an old plastic milk jug (HDPE) in the garage to make these kinds of shims. HDPE is easily worked, but has a high shear factor, excellent for these kinds of applications.

The shim itself doesn't eliminate the rattle, it just eliminates the two pieces of metal from contacting each other, and that's where the noise comes from. The vibration is still there, it's just silenced now.

Wow thanks for sharing!