Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[halfcirclej]

I agree with phato. Both my 08 ultra classic an my 2011 CVO both have ABS. They both stop very well. I don't like the linked system, had it on my old 1984 gold wing. The right front caliber an rear worked together. Left front worked by itself. It could get hairy in a corner using just the rear brake alone.

[grc]

I agree with phato. Both my 08 ultra classic an my 2011 CVO both have ABS. They both stop very well. I don't like the linked system, had it on my old 1984 gold wing. The right front caliber an rear worked together. Left front worked by itself. It could get hairy in a corner using just the rear brake alone.

It all depends on how they set the system up.  If the front caliper is only activated when braking pressure reaches a higher figure, then rear only braking to "set" the suspension for a curve is still possible.  If the system is set up to immediately activate the front caliper at the same time as the rear even with light pedal pressure, then I'd agree it might suck.

Jerry

[halfcirclej]

Jerry is correct. However the gold wing had no shuttle valve in the system.

[Yellow09SERG]

Something else you might check and not sure what years of bikes it applied to, but experienced similar problems but only when riding 2up. Stop light and normal breaking would cause the ABS to activate at every expansion joint. Asked my tech about it one day and he mentioned a service bulletin about ABS and a new download to help with that problem. Rolled the bike back and in 10 minutes he was done. Will not say that it totally fixed it, but you have to be on the brakes pretty hard before the expansion joints are felt in the brakes now

[gearida]

Update, I did as suggested here and added 20 LBS. of air to the rear shocks. It took me a while to learn to like it, but I will say I no longer have active ABS when hitting a small ripple or expansion joint, as I did before. I am totally shocked that four dealers I have spoken to did not have the cure. I guess until you experience the shock or scare of having your brakes let go, do you understand, as a dealer because they don't ride these bike they have no clue. I was fairly sure the manual does not suggest 20 LBS of air. It should! I am much happier now.... Thank you!!!

[CVODON]

You are incorrect when you say the bike sits higher with more air in shocks. The air does not effect length or ride-height, it only effects dampening. 20# is pretty low. Not sure what you meant when you said it was hard to adjust to, the shocks are just not that sensitive to changes in pressure, when you said you went from 11# to 20# that is rather insignificant in the overall sense.

[grc]

You are incorrect when you say the bike sits higher with more air in shocks. The air does not effect length or ride-height, it only effects dampening. 20# is pretty low. Not sure what you meant when you said it was hard to adjust to, the shocks are just not that sensitive to changes in pressure, when you said you went from 11# to 20# that is rather insignificant in the overall sense.

Sorry Don, but you've got that backward.  The air pressure has nothing to do with damping, that's built into the hydraulic system.  The air pressure affects sag and spring rate, and increasing pressure keeps the bike from sagging as much under the weight of the rider/passenger/luggage.  Thus the need to adjust pressure based on the weight being carried.  In my experience the recommendations in the manuals tend to be conservative btw.  If the manual recommends 10 psi for instance, I usually found that 15 to 20 actually worked better for me.  The secret is to experiment to see what suits each individual circumstance and determine your own best settings for one up, two up, and fully loaded.  Just don't exceed the maximum pressure in the manual.   

Jerry

[RonandJanet]

I am glad the problem was fixed so easy. I keep a lot of pressure in my air shocks especially for two up. I found the handling was much better at 40 PSI. The ABS on my 2010 worked great. I never had any issues with them.  My 2014 has the new linked brakes which seems to be OK so far. A little odd when they disengage but still overall I have valued the ABS in both bikes due to emergency stops!

[Ripcord]

I know this is scary - I have a Prius(!) for work use but I experience the same thing. An intersection I drive every day has a manhole just before the lights and when I brake approaching the red light and hit the manhole, the car feels like it surges forward - in other words, the brakes stop functioning until I am over the manhole. If I don't plan for this I would have hit cars in front of me on numerous occasions. BTW, just one wheel goes over the manhole.