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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra Classic® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: Bob Morasko on April 10, 2011, 10:25:43 PM

Title: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on April 10, 2011, 10:25:43 PM
I have a 2010 Harley Ultra Classic CVO.  I live in a rural area and need to wire the spotlights to stay on with the high beams on.  A reliable source advised me route the orange and white wire with a red cap from the headlight harness and plug the wire into the spot light switch.   I pulled the wire and fed it to the spotlight switch to only find that there is not a connector on the switch to plug the wire.  Can someone advise me where to plug the orange and white wire?   Thanks!
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: DavidB on April 11, 2011, 09:13:24 AM
The switch gets its power from the low beam wire on the headlight. Cut the out wire to the switch and spice it to the orange and white wire. I usually change the fuses with a 20 amp one on  the acc and the headlight also.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on April 11, 2011, 10:48:33 AM
Bob,

Here's a thread that will help:  http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=53274.0

It's actually quite easy. Just remove the lock assembly, and flip over the switch panel.  You will see a yellow wire that goes to the spot switch. Then locate the Orange/Red wire on the accessory switch.  Simply cut the yellow wire about a 2" from where it appears from the harness. Cap that with shrink wrap. Then cut the Orange/Red wire an inch or 2 from the switch, and strip 1/2" from all three wires (Yellow and both ends of the Orange/Red) slide on some shrink wrap, then twist the three together, with the one side with two wires. Solder, and protect with the shrink wrap.

Very easy job, and takes less than 1/2 hour. I just double check and make sure that the Orange/Red is the same on the 2010's. I think it is, but just use a meter and make sure it's always hot in each of the accessory switch positions.

I hope this helps.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: grc on April 11, 2011, 02:15:16 PM
The switch gets its power from the low beam wire on the headlight. Cut the out wire to the switch and spice it to the orange and white wire. I usually change the fuses with a 20 amp one on  the acc and the headlight also.

Why?  Unless you upgraded the wire gauge in the circuits involved, all you've done is eliminate the safety feature the fuses provide.  I hope you don't stick 20 amp breakers in all your 15 amp circuits in your house.


Jerry
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on April 11, 2011, 09:25:11 PM
What year was your bike?  Was your bike a CVO with a toggle spot and speaker switch.  My 2010 CVO has four wires to the toggle spot/speaker switch: I am concerned the toggle switch may function differently.  To clarify, how far away from the switch do u cut the yellow wire?  Finally, what type of solder and shrink wrap do you recommend?   
Thanks,
Bob
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on April 12, 2011, 10:05:06 AM
Don't mess with the speaker switch!!! The only two wires you will be touching is the Yellow wire coming from the Spot Light switch. And the Orange/Red (Orange with a Red stripe) from the Accessory Switch. Do NOT touch anything else!

Now, regarding the yellow wire. It connects to the Spot Light switch on one end, and if you follow it to the harness where it disappears, cut it approx 1" to 2" from there. make sure you wrap it well with shrink wrap. I actually dab liquid tape on the end then shrink wrap so that the end of the wire is embedded in about 1/4" inch. Never can be too safe.

Now, after that, you can easily figure out where you can tap into the Orange/Red wire from the Accessory switch so that the wires lay nicely. I found that cutting the Orange/Red wire approx 2" from the switch worked great for me.

Regarding solder and shrink wrap, just go to the local Radio Shack - they will set you up with an inexpensive gun as well. Very easy. My 2006 SEUC is a CVO, but I have done the same mod on a couple of my buddies bikes, one a std UC and it was fine. Nothing to worry about.

If you're in the Chicago area, bring it by and I'll show you how.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on April 13, 2011, 02:27:47 AM
Big thanks for the response.  I live in Wyoming.  I want to clarify on the 2010 CVO Ultra, the speaker switch and the spotlight switch are the same switch.  If you push the bottom of the switch a light goes and the spots start.  If u push the top of the toggle switch, the speaker light comes on.  I therefore have to mess with the speaker switch which is also the spotlight switch.  The switches may be different on an 06.  Please advise.   
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Boatman on April 13, 2011, 06:44:34 AM
Big thanks for the response.  I live in Wyoming.  I want to clarify on the 2010 CVO Ultra, the speaker switch and the spotlight switch are the same switch.  If you push the bottom of the switch a light goes and the spots start.  If u push the top of the toggle switch, the speaker light comes on.  I therefore have to mess with the speaker switch which is also the spotlight switch.  The switches may be different on an 06.  Please advise.   

I have a 2010 and the method mentioned in the above posts works great on older bikes but not the bikes with switches that Bob Morasko is talking about .

I would like to know how also on later model bikes.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on April 13, 2011, 10:54:43 AM
Guys, I just did this on a 2010 Standard Ultra Classic, and it works fine. While I have not done this on a 2010 SEUC, which might have some minor difference due to the locks switch, the principle and logic is the same.

Essentially, the yellow wire provides 12+ to the +coil of the spot relay from the LB circuit.  When the LB/HB switch is cycled to HB, it losses power and you loose the Spots. As such, all you are doing is splicing the yellow wire into the incoming side of the accessory switch that has full time 12v, while the ignition switch is in Ignition or Access.

Now, due to the locks swtich, they might have changed things around a bit, but you should be able to very easily associate these instructions to make this work. When you have the panel open, find the yellow wire. With the Ign off, use a meter on the switch terminal and see if you have power to it. S/B no. Then put the Ign to Ign and on LB's. You should see power now. If you switch to HB's, their s/b no power. Once that is confirmed, you are set on the yellow wire. Following that wire, it goes to the right side of the neck into a loom going towards the fairing.

Then go to the accessory switch. Turn the ign switch to Ign. Turn the accessory switch OFF. Check each terminal (and attached wire color) and take notes of those showing power. Then flip the accessory switch to on. Again, take note of which terminal has power. One will have power under both conditions (on and off) and one will have power only with the switch on. The wire you want to tap into is the wire that had power when the accessory switch is on and off.

The bottom line is, it doesn't matter where you get the power from, you simply have to tap that yellow wire into a full time power lead (with the ignition on) to enable the spots independantly of the HB/LB selection.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on April 13, 2011, 09:23:13 PM
Thanks for your assistance!
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: WVULTRA on April 16, 2011, 12:22:41 PM
If you don't want to deal with wiring it yourself, this might be an option from MoCo:

Kit Number
69200261
Models
This jumper harness allows the front auxiliary lamps on 2010
and later FLHT models to remain ON with both the low beam
and high beam headlamp, to meet Japan regulations.


:bulb2:
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on May 04, 2011, 09:52:20 PM
I had the harley dealer order the part number you recommended.  I viewed the part tonight and it is for a Softail (Instructions).  I am not sure that this is the right part.  Can you please confirm the part number?  Are you sure this will work with the CVO: The CVO has all the accessories etc when compared to the FLHT?
Thanks,
Bob
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: petewerner on May 06, 2011, 09:49:30 AM
Why?  Unless you upgraded the wire gauge in the circuits involved, all you've done is eliminate the safety feature the fuses provide.  I hope you don't stick 20 amp breakers in all your 15 amp circuits in your house.


Jerry

EXACTLY
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Cowboy2 on May 06, 2011, 05:13:24 PM
Hello Guys, from the Top of the World "Down Under"

In Australia, the lights are 100 watt, and ONLY come on with the High Beams...   Interestingly, HD changes these things for shipping to International Destinations.   Now this makes me think the basic wiring harness might be OK to handle this, but you can measure up the wire size to see for yourself. 

MY POINT: Are the spotlights only 50 watt in America???  My spot lights ONLY come on with High Beams...  (added to my CVO Street Glide for old school look and angled out 5 degrees for safety.. Roos)  If yours are 50 watt, How do they look as far as light goes? 

With Big Blue coming in July, as a MAJOR Tourer, I already have done 6000 kms this year and I would like the "Spotlights" on with LOW BEAM for safety at night against the Roos, and safety against Traffic in the day time (we are mandatory automatic lights on)

So, will this work?  Is the 50 watt good enough at night to get side road illumination?  And not to bright to run with Low Beams ????

Best regards with "International Version" CVO...... Here with my Ugly Mug, showing you the Street Glide with CVO "Passing Lights"...  Cheers


Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: 2k on May 07, 2011, 08:36:53 AM
Does anyone know if this method effects the garage door opener? Want to try, but opener is very important.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on May 07, 2011, 12:01:53 PM
The method I shared does not negatively effect the Garage Door Opener.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: WVULTRA on May 08, 2011, 09:49:25 AM
I had the harley dealer order the part number you recommended.  I viewed the part tonight and it is for a Softail (Instructions).  I am not sure that this is the right part.  Can you please confirm the part number?  Are you sure this will work with the CVO: The CVO has all the accessories etc when compared to the FLHT?
Thanks,
Bob

Bob:

Just noticed there is indeed an adapter for the Softail line.  But, the part # is 69200263.

 :2vrolijk_21:
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 15, 2011, 09:11:20 PM
Has anyone figured out how to wire their SEUC (I have a 2010 SEUC) so that the passing lamps stay on with the hi-beam WITHOUT losing the use of the garage door opener? Still haven't been able to find a solution or more importantly read where someone made the wiring change and didn't lose their GDO. Any insight or tips would be appreciated.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on August 15, 2011, 09:40:15 PM
I had a local motorcycle mechanic rewire the spots to stay on with both high and low beam.  The swith turns them on and off.  Worked great in the black Hills over Sturgis this weekend.  The Mechanic wants to remain private.  I am sure your local Harley dealer can rewire them:)
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 15, 2011, 09:43:29 PM
I had a local motorcycle mechanic rewire the spots to stay on with both high and low beam.  The swith turns them on and off.  Worked great in the black Hills over Sturgis this weekend.  The Mechanic wants to remain private.  I am sure your local Harley dealer can rewire them:)

What bike did he do the re-wiring on?
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Bob Morasko on August 15, 2011, 09:59:41 PM
2010 Harley CVO Ultra.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Cowboy2 on August 15, 2011, 10:05:34 PM
OK, got the answer Brother 2ksoftail, and for me WHAT GARAGE DOOR OPENER???  On my Australian version, our spotlights, passing lights, are on with High Beams only...  Since I have gotten the LED headlights sets in all three (HD), I have been putting them on for safety reasons in the daytime, and so far no one has flashed me back... Maybe the light is different enough to be tolerable in the daylight...   ???

Further, with BIG BLUE I thought I would be getting a garage door opener.... And funny enough I thought it would do Blue Tooth for my phone... Maybe it does but I need to plug in the intercom and have not done it...  BTW, our spotlights and speakers are on the same two way rocker switch and I have not really figured that one out either..  The speaker part does not seem to do anything... But maybe it puts the speakers on when the intercom in on or something...  So where is the garage door opener, am I missing something???? :-[

And for Heavens Sake, don't tell me to read the manual... Us Blokes in Australia don't read no bloody manuals til we broke sometin....      :duhk:
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 15, 2011, 10:09:36 PM
2010 Harley CVO Ultra.

Well someone out there must know how to make this relatively modest wiring change without having to pay a dealer to take the fairing apart to make this simple wiring change.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 15, 2011, 10:15:26 PM
OK, got the answer Brother 2ksoftail, and for me WHAT GARAGE DOOR OPENER???  On my Australian version, our spotlights, passing lights, are on with High Beams only...  Since I have gotten the LED headlights sets in all three (HD), I have been putting them on for safety reasons in the daytime, and so far no one has flashed me back... Maybe the light is different enough to be tolerable in the daylight...   ???

Further, with BIG BLUE I thought I would be getting a garage door opener.... And funny enough I thought it would do Blue Tooth for my phone... Maybe it does but I need to plug in the intercom and have not done it...  BTW, our spotlights and speakers are on the same two way rocker switch and I have not really figured that one out either..  The speaker part does not seem to do anything... But maybe it puts the speakers on when the intercom in on or something...  So where is the garage door opener, am I missing something???? :-[

And for Heavens Sake, don't tell me to read the manual... Us Blokes in Australia don't read no bloody manuals til we broke sometin....      :duhk:

GDO opener is activated by flashing the hi/lo beam switch once. Check the manual. The speaker switch has 3 positions. The top position turns just the fairing speakers on. The middle position turns just the headset speakers on (fairing speakers are turned off) and the lower position turns both the headset and the fairing speakers on. If you're not using a headset, just set the speaker position to the top setting. I sometimes use just the headset position when I'm on the CB, but then I switch to the combo position so I can hear the CB through the fairing speakers and still have access to my mike to reply. Gives my ears a rest from the headset.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Cowboy2 on August 15, 2011, 10:51:09 PM
Hey, thanks there Heatwave, very cool....   :2vrolijk_21:

Now part of my problem is figuring out what is the International version or not.  On the speaker switch, the lower part is my passing lights on or off on high beam.... Soooo dat is different...  Now our voltages here are 240, but if the remote frequency is within range I do not see why the GDO would not work... Our opener machines have a selector on the GD machine that you put on to "read" a new frequency and store it...  So when you say "flash" the high low beam switch, that is a rocker on the left handlebar, up for high and down for low... So do you mean go to high and back to low ??
Thanks again, Cowboy...
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 15, 2011, 11:10:30 PM
Hey, thanks there Heatwave, very cool....   :2vrolijk_21:

Now part of my problem is figuring out what is the International version or not.  On the speaker switch, the lower part is my passing lights on or off on high beam.... Soooo dat is different...  Now our voltages here are 240, but if the remote frequency is within range I do not see why the GDO would not work... Our opener machines have a selector on the GD machine that you put on to "read" a new frequency and store it...  So when you say "flash" the high low beam switch, that is a rocker on the left handlebar, up for high and down for low... So do you mean go to high and back to low ??
Thanks again, Cowboy...
Interesting. What bike do you have? On my 2010 SE Ultra there are 2 switches to the left of the ignition. The first switch activates cruise control when the top of the rocker is pressed and the bottom of that same rocker activates the passing lights. The second switch (closest to the ignition) is a 3 position rocker. The top position activates the 4 main speakers. The middle position turn the main speakers off and turns the 7-pin headset ON. The third and lower position of this rocker turn both the headset and the main speakers on.

The GDO is activated by simply rocking the handlebar headlight switch (left handlebar) from the lo to high to lo in rapid sequence. You'll need to follow the instructions in the maual to "mate" the Transmitter on the bike to the receiver on the GDO.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Cowboy2 on August 15, 2011, 11:48:02 PM
Thanks Heatwave,
Will do some playing around with it....  Mine is the 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6 BIG BLUE... And duh,  :nixweiss: yea Yogi, duh,  I just went out and looked at it and you are right, it is Cruise and Passing lights on the left rocker, and three position for speakers...  So that is the same, except that here the passing lights are ONLY on with High Beam..  Duh, my mistake..   :-[

On the GDO, I will have to have the play.  Inside my Garmin Sat Nave, sheilded by the KlockWerks windscreen, I put down a strip of velcro, and mounted the two GDO's I have to travel with, one for the GDO and one for the electric sliding gate on the horse property.  It works but it looks daggy..  

Uh.... Australian... "daggy", uh, that is a word like uh "it looks like chit"...  Dags are the little brown balls hanging off sheeps wool around their tails...  heh he.....  Daggy, sort of a word like Honda to us..  heh he...   :2vrolijk_21:  :cowboy:

Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 16, 2011, 07:14:31 AM
Thanks Heatwave,
Will do some playing around with it....  Mine is the 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6 BIG BLUE... And duh,  :nixweiss: yea Yogi, duh,  I just went out and looked at it and you are right, it is Cruise and Passing lights on the left rocker, and three position for speakers...  So that is the same, except that here the passing lights are ONLY on with High Beam..  Duh, my mistake..   :-[

On the GDO, I will have to have the play.  Inside my Garmin Sat Nave, sheilded by the KlockWerks windscreen, I put down a strip of velcro, and mounted the two GDO's I have to travel with, one for the GDO and one for the electric sliding gate on the horse property.  It works but it looks daggy..  

Uh.... Australian... "daggy", uh, that is a word like uh "it looks like chit"...  Dags are the little brown balls hanging off sheeps wool around their tails...  heh he.....  Daggy, sort of a word like Honda to us..  heh he...   :2vrolijk_21:  :cowboy:



Sounds like you are in good shape to get rid of at least one of the GDOs on the dashpad. Just read the section in the manual on how to program your GDO to your gate opener or door opener and then you'll be able to use the hi/lo beam switch instead of one of the transmitters on your dash. Good luck.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: bikerboy53 on August 17, 2011, 03:28:36 PM
Thanks Heatwave,
Will do some playing around with it....  Mine is the 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6 BIG BLUE... And duh,  :nixweiss: yea Yogi, duh,  I just went out and looked at it and you are right, it is Cruise and Passing lights on the left rocker, and three position for speakers...  So that is the same, except that here the passing lights are ONLY on with High Beam..  Duh, my mistake..   :-[

On the GDO, I will have to have the play.  Inside my Garmin Sat Nave, sheilded by the KlockWerks windscreen, I put down a strip of velcro, and mounted the two GDO's I have to travel with, one for the GDO and one for the electric sliding gate on the horse property.  It works but it looks daggy.. 

Uh.... Australian... "daggy", uh, that is a word like uh "it looks like chit"...  Dags are the little brown balls hanging off sheeps wool around their tails...  heh he.....  Daggy, sort of a word like Honda to us..  heh he...   :2vrolijk_21:  :cowboy:


Cowboy,
Maybe I'm missing something here, but my bike came with a receiver unit that I had to plug in next to the garage door opener. The receiver unit also has to be connected (wired) to the opener, then you program the receiver to work with the bike transmitter that is activated by flashing the hi beam on-off-on (-or vice versa). With this setup you could buy an extra receiver so you would have one for both your gate and the garage door. Hope this helps!

Biker Boy  8)
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: bikerboy53 on August 17, 2011, 03:36:57 PM
Hey, thanks there Heatwave, very cool....   :2vrolijk_21:

Now part of my problem is figuring out what is the International version or not.  On the speaker switch, the lower part is my passing lights on or off on high beam.... Soooo dat is different...  Now our voltages here are 240...
Duh oh! I just noticed the 240 volts you mentioned earlier. The receiver I spoke of in my previous post is 110 volt. For that reason I don't know if they include the GDO on International bikes or not. If they do, I think you could still make it work by putting a 240 to 110 transformer in the line to power the receiver. Again -hope this helps! And I hope I'm not looking to daggy by now!  ;D

Biker Boy
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Cowboy2 on August 17, 2011, 08:45:42 PM
No way Biker Boy, you are RIGHT ON Man..  :2vrolijk_21:

As an Engineer, I would have to say there is no way HD made the GDO not included into the Australian CVO...  It would be cheaper just to leave it in, but not include the receiver due to the voltage difference.   What I am thinking is the adapter is only the size of a tennis ball, and all we have to do is buy that "Receiver" you are talking about from HD and plug it into the wall outlet adapter.   :bananarock:

So Brothers, what I am getting is your CVO's come with that receiver ??  Cool....
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Twolanerider on August 17, 2011, 09:49:45 PM

As an Engineer, I would have to say there is no way HD made the GDO not included into the Australian CVO...  It would be cheaper just to leave it in, but not include the receiver due to the voltage difference.   What I am thinking is the adapter is only the size of a tennis ball, and all we have to do is buy that "Receiver" you are talking about from HD and plug it into the wall outlet adapter.   :bananarock:

So Brothers, what I am getting is your CVO's come with that receiver ??  Cool....

That would be contrary to what's been the history with these things.  The transmitter is rougly the size of a deck of cards.  Thinner, narrower but a bit longer.  It's just a plug in accessory though.  Easily added to or omitted from a bike going down the line. 

Non-US riders have wondered about the GDO before.  Some have bought the parts.  I've even mailed a couple sets overseas to guys doing it.  Don't remember any finding the transmitter in the bike to begin with.  Assembly line installer could always screw up and plug in something that wasn't intended to be there.  Having the transmitter would be outside the norm though.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Para Bellum on August 18, 2011, 02:04:30 AM
Dags are the little brown balls hanging off sheeps wool around their tails...  

Those would be "dingle-berries" here.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on August 18, 2011, 11:04:44 AM
Here's the wiring diagram someone posted earlier that I used for my 2006 SEUC and a 2010 Ultra Classic, and it worked fine.

Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 18, 2011, 12:12:50 PM
Here's the wiring diagram someone posted earlier that I used for my 2006 SEUC and a 2010 Ultra Classic, and it worked fine.



I don't believe this wiring diagram takes into account that the CVO Ultra has the Garage Door Opener activated by flashing the hi/lo beams. I would be interested if anyone used this schematic on a CVO Ultra and whether or not they lost the function of their GDO.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: grc on August 18, 2011, 01:16:26 PM
I don't believe this wiring diagram takes into account that the CVO Ultra has the Garage Door Opener activated by flashing the hi/lo beams. I would be interested if anyone used this schematic on a CVO Ultra and whether or not they lost the function of their GDO.

It doesn't matter.  The wiring for the headlight remains the same as before, the only difference is the power to the spot light switch is taken from a different source.  This mod has been used by hundreds if not thousands of other CVO owners, and most CVO Touring models have come with the Garage Door Opener.  I'm not aware of anyone reporting that this mod caused their GDO to quit operating.

Perhaps what you are thinking of is the issues some have had when changing the actual headlights to HID or LED.  Depending on model year, that can cause the GDO to stop working until a workaround is applied to the wiring.


Jerry
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 18, 2011, 01:31:06 PM
It doesn't matter.  The wiring for the headlight remains the same as before, the only difference is the power to the spot light switch is taken from a different source.  This mod has been used by hundreds if not thousands of other CVO owners, and most CVO Touring models have come with the Garage Door Opener.  I'm not aware of anyone reporting that this mod caused their GDO to quit operating.

Perhaps what you are thinking of is the issues some have had when changing the actual headlights to HID or LED.  Depending on model year, that can cause the GDO to stop working until a workaround is applied to the wiring.


Jerry

I've read several posts on another forum where individuals changed the wiring at the handlebar control to retain power for the spotlights even when the hi beams were switched on. The downside to the approach was that the change resulted in their garage door opener not operating even though the spots worked with the Hi beam. I wanted to ensure that this wiring diagram (which I've seen multiple times before) won't impact the GDO. I don't doubt you that it would work however it would certainly be helpful to hear from someone that made this change on a CVO Ultra to confirm their GDO's operation wasn't impacted.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Boatman on August 18, 2011, 01:48:51 PM
FWIW-

I did the pictured mod on my 05 SEEG2 and everything worked.

I tried this pictured mod on my 10 and the driving lights would not stay on with high beams (didn't try the opener).

From about 08 and up, the driving light/cruise switch is actually a module (as others have stated).

I have also read as Heatwave stated that you can do something in the handlebar switch but I don't like to work with wiring in cramped quarters and also still want the GDO..

I put a xenon light in for my low beams and run them with my driving lights. 


Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 18, 2011, 02:00:13 PM
FWIW-

I did the pictured mod on my 05 SEEG2 and everything worked.

I tried this pictured mod on my 10 and the driving lights would not stay on with high beams (didn't try the opener).

From about 08 and up, the driving light/cruise switch is actually a module (as others have stated).

I have also read as Heatwave stated that you can do something in the handlebar switch but I don't like to work with wiring in cramped quarters and also still want the GDO..

I put a xenon light in for my low beams and run them with my driving lights. 




This is my understanding as well. To date I have not read of anyone with a 2009 or higher CVO Ultra that has rewired their spots lights to operate with their HI-beam and did NOT end up losing their GDO. The only person I've read that achieved the spots with hi-beam and a functional GDO had their dealer do the wiring.

That explains why I would like to hear from any 2009 and newer CVO Ultras that have rewired their spots themselves to operate with the hi-beams and still had a functioning GDO. Any insight on how they did it would be much appreciated.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on August 18, 2011, 04:45:17 PM
Heatwave - The yellow wire which effects the positive side of the relay, has nothing whatsoever to do with the Garage Door Opener. I tried the other method first using the headlamp leads, and that DID negatively effect the GDO.

Also, this is NOT at the handle bar controls, but in the location of the switches in the panel by the ignition switch.  I just told you I did this on a 2010, and it worked fine. Certainly your mileage may vary, but this is a VERY easy job, and the good thing is, if it doesn't work, it's easily reversable.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 18, 2011, 05:07:45 PM
Heatwave - The yellow wire which effects the positive side of the relay, has nothing whatsoever to do with the Garage Door Opener. I tried the other method first using the headlamp leads, and that DID negatively effect the GDO.

Also, this is NOT at the handle bar controls, but in the location of the switches in the panel by the ignition switch.  I just told you I did this on a 2010, and it worked fine. Certainly your mileage may vary, but this is a VERY easy job, and the good thing is, if it doesn't work, it's easily reversable.

Thanks for the assistance and my apologies for being alittle slow. Can you walk me through the steps again. I assume I need to remove the ignition switch and the rocker switch panel cover to fully access under the spots switch. Based on the diagram, I want to cut the yellow lead going to the spots switch. Seal off the end of the yellow wire that goes to the spots. Take the yellow wire from the spots switch and tap it into the hot orange lead running into the accessories switch. Is that right?

Is there enough slack/extra wire in the yellow spots lead to reach the accessory switch without splicing in an extension? I assume the switch function remains unchanged and will light up when its turned on and the spots switch light will turn off when the rocker is turned off.

I think I've seen a YouTube video showing how to remove the ignition switch. Are there any other tips you can offer? Thanks again for the patience.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: copout221 on August 18, 2011, 08:12:19 PM
I did this mod last night on my 2010 and the GDO still works as designed. After you get the switch panel removed there is a sold state relay that is mounted behind the cruise / spot switch. There is a YELLOW wire that supplies 12v when the low beam is on but you lose the voltage when the high beam switch is activated. I cut the yellow wire before it enters the fairing and capped the end that proceeds into the batwing fairing. When I cut it I made sure that the end that goes into the relay had enough slack to reach the wires that come off of the back of the ACC switch. The wires on the ACC switch are both orange and you want the lower orange wire that is always energized when the ign is on. The upper orange wire is cycled by the ACC switch so if that wire is used you would always need to make sure the ACC switch is on for the spots to work. I tied the yellow wire into the lower orange and made sure the connections were secure and sealed. I used a few wire ties to make everything look nice and re-installed the switch panel. The spots now work with both low and high beam lamps activated plus the spot switch still operates as designed. It is really a simple mod that shouldn't take more than an hour to complete.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 18, 2011, 09:31:44 PM
Mr. Magloo...Thanks for the assistance. I did the wiring as you stated and the spots now work with both Hi and Lo beams and the GDO works as well. All is good and the job took about 30-45 mins.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 19, 2011, 08:16:03 AM
I did this mod last night on my 2010 and the GDO still works as designed. After you get the switch panel removed there is a sold state relay that is mounted behind the cruise / spot switch. There is a YELLOW wire that supplies 12v when the low beam is on but you lose the voltage when the high beam switch is activated. I cut the yellow wire before it enters the fairing and capped the end that proceeds into the batwing fairing. When I cut it I made sure that the end that goes into the relay had enough slack to reach the wires that come off of the back of the ACC switch. The wires on the ACC switch are both orange and you want the lower orange wire that is always energized when the ign is on. The upper orange wire is cycled by the ACC switch so if that wire is used you would always need to make sure the ACC switch is on for the spots to work. I tied the yellow wire into the lower orange and made sure the connections were secure and sealed. I used a few wire ties to make everything look nice and re-installed the switch panel. The spots now work with both low and high beam lamps activated plus the spot switch still operates as designed. It is really a simple mod that shouldn't take more than an hour to complete.

I just thought I would mention that there were 2 plugs on my switch cover wiring before the wiring went into the fairing. Once I had the ignition switch off and the 2 screws on the sides removed, it was a simple matter of disconnecting the 2 plugs and the entire swich cover could be removed and brought in the house to do the wiring. I cut the yellow wire about 2 inches from the plug I disconnected. I also cut the red/orange wire  about 1-2 inches from the Aux switch housing (the orange stripe is very faint but it is there). I then twisted the yellow wire from the spots together with the orange/red from the Aux switch wire I just cut. Stripped both ends and twisted them together. Used a butt connector. Then connected the other end of the Orange/Red wire to the other end of the butt connector. Crimped and heat shrink. Then took the free yellow wire I cut, put some liquid electric tape on the cut end and a heat shrink to finish it off.

Buttoned it all back together and tested the GDO and spots. Everything works as it should.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: mrmagloo on August 19, 2011, 11:27:30 AM
Good news guys. Now, go and buy a set of the Truck Lite LED passing lights, and those will rock your world! Everyone in my crew refuses to ride in front of me, so I'm forced to lead all of the time.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Heatwave on August 19, 2011, 11:34:20 AM
Good news guys. Now, go and buy a set of the Truck Lite LED passing lights, and those will rock your world! Everyone in my crew refuses to ride in front of me, so I'm forced to lead all of the time.

Already have both the TL LED Phase 6 Headlight and the matching TL LED Passing lights. They're fantastic and I would highly recommend them.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Boatman on August 21, 2011, 07:51:14 PM
Took the inner fairing cap off again this afternoon.  Finally works.  On my previous attempt, I had tied the accessory orange/red wire into the yellow wire going into the cruise/spot rocker switch.  This time connected the yellow wire from the module to the orange/red wire and all is good.


Thanks Heatwave for resurrecting this thread and to Mrmagloo and Copout for their help/insight.
Title: Re: Wiring spotlights to stay on with high beams on.
Post by: Elixer on August 21, 2011, 07:55:23 PM
wultra is correct...be cautious not to void your warranty....the MoCo does not take kindly to mods outside of their design practices. you may want to check with your dealer before making any wiring mods.