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[RAINEY]

Haven't picked up my new 2015 CVO Limited from the dealer yet but will as soon as the weather breaks. I had them install Rinehart True Duals and a Power Commander. They said they shouldn't dyno tune until I get 1,000 miles on it. They also said they didn't di any mapping or programming because it already had a stage 1 on it. Does this sound right? 

Thanks,
Jason

[grc]

Haven't picked up my new 2015 CVO Limited from the dealer yet but will as soon as the weather breaks. I had them install Rinehart True Duals and a Power Commander. They said they shouldn't dyno tune until I get 1,000 miles on it. They also said they didn't di any mapping or programming because it already had a stage 1 on it. Does this sound right? 

Thanks,
Jason

CVO's are considered to be Stage I from the factory, since they usually have a higher flow intake and a higher flow exhaust than the standard models.  But that has nothing to do with your situation, since the flow of your new exhaust isn't likely to be the same as the stock exhaust.  Another thing that makes a big difference is whether or not you retain closed loop engine management.  What Power Commander did they "install"?  If it's one of the versions that eliminates the O₂ sensors, you don't have closed loop engine management any more.  If that's the case, the first thing I'd do is tell them to remove the PC and return the engine management system to stock.  At least that way the mixture will be no leaner than it is set up to be from the factory under cruise conditions.  Then when you have the bike tuned, find a good full time professional tuner and have it done right.

JMHO - Jerry

[RAINEY]

Jerry
Thank you for the information. It's sad when you can't take a dealers word for anything. Also, it is true that you should wait at least 1,000 miles before dyno tuning?

Jason

[grc]

Jerry
Thank you for the information. It's sad when you can't take a dealers word for anything. Also, it is true that you should wait at least 1,000 miles before dyno tuning?

Jason

Jason, in my opinion it would be better to do some break-in miles first.  Don't forget, you're "breaking in" a lot more than just the engine.  The entire drivetrain will run smoother and cooler after all the moving parts are allowed to get acquainted, if you follow what I mean.  Overheating any of the parts early in their life can be detrimental.  A really good professional can do the break-in on the dyno, but I get the impression your dealership isn't one of the places I'd trust to do it right.

Btw, what kind of Power Commander are you talking about?  To each his own, but if this was a recommendation from the dealership and not your personal preference, you might want to think about going with one of the flash type systems like the TTS, Power Vision, etc. rather than an add-on box (piggyback device) like the PC.  My standard recommendation to people is to spend your time finding a full time professional tuner with a good reputation, then let him help you decide what system to use.  Never assume a dealership has such a person on the payroll.  While some might, most do not.

JMHO - Jerry

[RAINEY]

I will find out with PC Monday morning. It was recommended by the deaker. He also claims they have a great dyno-tuner on staff but I'm really thinking I should look for someone with a proven track record. He told be they already put on the true duals and PC. He said they didn't need to re map or change anything and it should run perfectly as is until Dyno tuned.

I really appreciate your feedback

[r0de_runr]

I'm not sure I would want to return to the stock ECM calibration with those headers installed.  I would hope that the calibration they used for the PC was at least rich enough to prevent serious overheating.  The stock calibration would be way to lean.  Just my opinion.

[RAINEY]

Thanks Greg

I will be discussing everything with the dealer in Monday. I want to make sure I'm as informed as I possible can be. I don't know much about that kind of thing. I know a lot about lubrication and oil analysis but totally lost on the best way to deal with this. I had a dealer I really trusted in CA and never had to worry and never had a problem.

Thanks again,
Jason

[grc]

I'm not sure I would want to return to the stock ECM calibration with those headers installed.  I would hope that the calibration they used for the PC was at least rich enough to prevent serious overheating.  The stock calibration would be way to lean.  Just my opinion.

They didn't install a map or do a tune, if I read the OP correctly.  If he runs the stock ECM calibration with the O₂ sensors operating, as opposed to them being disabled which is normal with a PC installed, the bike will run the same mixture it was designed to run, assuming the correction required is within the adjustment range of the system.  Granted that is relatively lean, but it isn't any more lean than someone running his new bike completely stock.  If he does a lot of wide open throttle and hard accel (open loop), then it may run slightly leaner than stock, at least until the ECM applies any learned offsets.  Ideally I wouldn't do the pipes or other mods until I could also do the tune, but since the dealer installed a piggy back system and didn't install a canned map, and the pipes are already installed, I think my approach is appropriate.  I also think that dealership is a joke, but that's true of many Harley dealerships, sadly enough. 

Jerry

[2015FLHTKSE]

Hopefully they used a PC V. You'll love the Rineharts. I went with the RC Components Tru Dual since I already had the slip-ons from my other bike. I installed the PC V myself and loaded their stock map for now. It was basically made for your configuration and it is posted on the PC V map site. It is the M15-019-041 map. If you have the PC V just install the software on your laptop, providing you have one and use the USB cable to hook up to your PC V. Start the program and load the map. They have specific instructions on the PC website. Or you can tell the dealership what map you want them to use, they should be able to grab it.

[RAINEY]

Thanks all. Keeps the comments and ideas coming.

[cheeset202]

Did a similar mod after putting 2500 miles on the stock bike, Reinhart true duals and the street tuner plus Dyno time to get it right. Very happy with the results.

[timo482]

and not to rain on the parade - but even dealer installed - the engine warranty goes for a long ride into the sunset with tuner and pipe.

to

[RAINEY]

Good point but I'm not that worries about warranty. I want it to run properly and perform well as a 110 should. 

Thanks,
Jason

[bakon]

Negative- warranty to be bad would need them to prove part was damaged by tune and pipe...
From SE catalog page 2
Warranty: Installation of Screamin’ Eagle® products, and similar offroad
or competition products from other manufacturers, except some
street-legal offerings installed by authorized Harley® dealers, may void
your H-D® limited vehicle warranty. See your dealer for more information.

Page 27 gives two models of tuner- one retains full engine warranty, one doesn't. But it also would have to be shown the tune caused the problem. A broken stud or piston would have to be related to a bad tune for it to be not covered. The installing dealer here should know what download wont burn a hole through the piston.  The PC more likely to be denied coverage than a SEPST. Now somebody playing with tuner could cause a bad enough tune to hurt something, sure.

[bakon]

Also tru duals might sound good, but actually have a torque dip right below 3k rpm which is where we usually ride these baggers. How often do you really ride at 3200 and up and for how long? How often do you shift at 4500? I would guess 90 percent is below 3k with the 110 motor. Now the 255 cam offers enough torque to make the bike move fine, even with some shaved off, but you can pick a better any headpipe and any slip on will perform better at that 2400-2900 dip range a tru dual is going to provide.

I used Rineharts on an 06 streetglide and been all over with them. These were the original rineharts (first manufactor) and performance baffles, meaning loud ones without much restriction. To beat the torque dip on a 95 with tru duals I bumped the compression to 10.5:1, added HTCC pistons and heads with a .030 squish and a Woods .650 lift can and a 42 intake close.  I would think if you are going to do pistons, compression, cams and heads down the road, go for the duals, they will run good. But a stock headpipe without a cat would be better than tru duals below 3k.