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[Talon]

I have had my bike on two dynos one said 130 hp 133 tq and I was happy,  Then I brought it a shop that specializes in tuning and now the numbers are 117hp and 116tq  and comes on way sooner and I will tell you the bike now goes much better?  The tuner says most dyno shops go up 10% in numbers so the customer is HAPPY with the new parts they bought and installed.  He also said he could give me a dyno sheet that had much higher numbers if i wanted but there not the real numbers. I guess what I am saying is the butt dyno don't lie don't and don't trust all shops that sell you parts.

There are many ways to inflate the numbers on a dyno. First a shop will put your bike on the dyno cold, take a run, than maybe mess with a few things, maybe not, run it warm and show you the increase that is just caused by the difference between a cold and warm motor. A good tuner will put you bike on the dyno and take some warm up runs, then when the TQ and HP level out take the base line run. Also they can inflate you numbers by using different SAE correction numbers, to really compare numbers, they have to be at the same SAE setting. And of course what gear they make the pull in, 4th gear will give a lower reading that 5th will.

[SPIDERMAN]

I've said it before, I'll say it again, I'll keep saying it till it registers with someone.

PLEASE PRINT YOUR ET SHEETS The dyno shop is BSin you if they say they don't have it. It's part of the software.

A 110/110 motor that gets it all going in 3 seconds will absolutely STOMP a 125/125 motor that takes 6 seconds to get it going in a stop light to stop light race, a 1/4 mile whatever. If you're talkin a highway roll on with no particular distance limit, eventually you'll win, but not in what most people consider a drag race.


B B

I'm going to keep bumping this post to the top till it receives some discussion

B B

[d-rock]

110/110 motor that gets it all going in 3 seconds will absolutely STOMP a 125/125 motor that takes 6 seconds to get it going in a stop light to stop light race, a 1/4 mile whatever. If you're talkin a highway roll on with no particular distance limit, eventually you'll win, but not in what most people consider a drag race.

Okay  I have not heard of as ET sheet. Do all dyno's do them? My guy uses a land and sea machine. Does what your sayin have  to do with where the tq hits?  A bike that has 110tq  at 2000 rpm vs a Bike that hits 110tq  at 3400 rpm but tops out at 125 foot pounds. the first bike is quicker in a 1/4 mile right?   Derek

[Black Diamond]

This is where I'm at for now. Hope for better when I figure out what's out of whack.

[SPIDERMAN]

This is where I'm at for now. Hope for better when I figure out what's out of whack.

     Your power curve develops up the RPM range and hence also in the sense of what I've been talking about with Elapsed Time graphs, late as well. The only way you will change this is to change cams to ones with a more aggressive profile. I preach DM 598G from Dave Mackie Engineering. But that's just me. There's a lot of good cams out there, just be aware that the hip bone's connected to the thigh bone and if most times you can't just change one piece of your motor without changing one or more other things.

B B

[Black Diamond]

Thanks BB
What I don't get is how others with a similiar build with 110's are doing better than this. The package should be sound. There is something restricting this motor but I haven't got my finger on it yet. Everyone ask about sumping. That was the first thing checked. Not sumping. But it must be sumpin else.

I'm thing about posting a summary of my build for all to look over. Someone may come up with it. I have to look into the rings micro-welding. It can only be connected to several areas but which? or is it a combination of things?

JW

[Dan_Lockwood]

Thanks BB
What I don't get is how others with a similiar build with 110's are doing better than this. The package should be sound. There is something restricting this motor but I haven't got my finger on it yet. Everyone ask about sumping. That was the first thing checked. Not sumping. But it must be sumpin else.

I'm thing about posting a summary of my build for all to look over. Someone may come up with it. I have to look into the rings micro-welding. It can only be connected to several areas but which? or is it a combination of things?

08 SE Road King 117 c i motor:
SERT, SE 58mm TB, Rinehart TD
Diamond cut Axtell 117 cylinders
JE rev-dome thermal coated 117 pistons
Diamond cut CycleRama thermal coated SE 110 heads, SE Roller Rockers, SE Rocker Arm Support
SE pushrods, CR performance lifters, Chrome billet aluminum lifter covers
CR595 cam, SE camplate, Torrington full coverage bearings
Dark Horse Pro Plug crank, Timken bearing
AIM VP92T



JW

I think you've already posted your build, in your signature.  Is this correct?

[Black Diamond]

Yep  Just gave the additional stuff like flow numbers for the heads, cam specs and that sort of stuff. It's in my post in the Twin Cam section.

JW

[MobileAGBell]

I now have about 4400 miles on my SERK. In early May I installed a Heavy Breather a/c. Soon afterwards I took it to my dealer and had a SERT installed, tuned and the bike dyno'd (max power 92.2 and max torque 109.6).

After reviewing the posts here it seems that there is quite a variance on the hp and torque results from changing exhaust and the a/c. I want to make sure I don't waste money for mods that don't provide a measureable difference that I can see (in the dyno results) and feel in the saddle. I plan to work with my tuner on suggestions but I have a couple of questions.

What type of gains do people expect to get with exhaust and a/c mods? Increased hp of 2-5 and comparable torque increases? More? Less? Or do people simply hope to see something that makes them feel like it was worth it?

[hunter]

Check out my chart (Reply #158 on previous page).
96 HP
111 torque

[FLTRCVO]

I now have about 4400 miles on my SERK. In early May I installed a Heavy Breather a/c. Soon afterwards I took it to my dealer and had a SERT installed, tuned and the bike dyno'd (max power 92.2 and max torque 109.6).

After reviewing the posts here it seems that there is quite a variance on the hp and torque results from changing exhaust and the a/c. I want to make sure I don't waste money for mods that don't provide a measureable difference that I can see (in the dyno results) and feel in the saddle. I plan to work with my tuner on suggestions but I have a couple of questions.

What type of gains do people expect to get with exhaust and a/c mods? Increased hp of 2-5 and comparable torque increases? More? Less? Or do people simply hope to see something that makes them feel like it was worth it?

I have the D & D Fat Cat Exhaust, SERT, and stock A/C, my numbers are HP 101 / TQ 115 (Dyno Reply 84). You be the judge.

[MobileAGBell]

Hunter & FLHRSE,

Those are both impressive gains, especially compared to some that have posted with more mods and less results. I'd love to see an 8% - 10% overall improvement on my bike (now that the a/c has been replaced and it's tuned) with only some exhaust system changes. That may be a bit optimistic but I'll talk with my tuner.

Thanks for the response.

[kojak]

See reply #42. Torque kicks in at 2k rpm.

[spepin]

Here's mine -- '08 SERK, Rinehard True Duals, PCIII, H-D Heavy Breather intake.  I'll attach two charts -- one with the standard baffles and one with the quiet baffles.  This was a custom advanced map created by the Dynojet R&D department.  This will be the maps they will be posting on their site.

[spepin]

Here's the same setup but mapped for the quiet baffles.