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[Jim Kerr]

I just had the pleasure of removing the Catalytic Converter from my 2009 CVO SERG.  I thought some of you may find it useful to have the steps documented. 

The first step is to remove your Right muffler.  Start by removing the main nut in front of your Right muffler.  This is a clamp that seals the muffler to the main header. 

[Jim Kerr]

The next step is to remove the two rear nuts that mount the back of the muffler.  This is all that is holding it on.  You then can twist and slide it off.  Be careful not to drop or scratch it. 

[Jim Kerr]

After getting the pipe off you can look into the main header and see the Catalytic Converter.  The screen door looking thing inside of the exhaust.  Talk about restrictive! 

[Jim Kerr]

The next step requires a 1.6" coring drill bit that is 14" long.  You can get one of these form McGillis Warehouse for $25 + shipping. 

http://mcgillswarehouse.com/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemID=154120006&IN=SILVERBRAZEDDRILLBIT,14

This bit is designed for drilling concrete and has a 5/8" UNC shaft for accepting a chuck.  This is a lot bigger than anything I own, so I purchased a 5/8" rod with UNC threads from Home Depot.  I cut it to a more reasonable length and mounted it to the bit with a nut and lock washer.  I ground down the end sticking out of the bit to get it to fit my 3/4" drill chuck. 

[Jim Kerr]

The next step is to insert the bit into the end of the header.  It will probably feel a bit tight when you start.  This is because the pipe is a bit compressed from the muffler.  When you get the end of the bit into the opening it will easily slide into the pipe. 

This pic is the the starting point where the bit just touches the converter. 

[Jim Kerr]

The converter is made of hard material and does not want to come out.  Take your time and drill with a constant pressure (not too much) on the drill.  I found that removing the bit form time to time and adding oil made the job easier.  You need a good drill for this step.  It needs to maintain torque as you apply pressure.  You do not need to drill fast.  Slow and easy...

This pic is the ending point when I just broke through the core.  The core is about 7" long.  When you get about to the end slow down and be careful.  When you go through you could damage the header.  It will break free quick. 

[Jim Kerr]

After you get though stop the drill and then push forward slightly.  This will help push the core back into the bit.  Then slowly back the drill out of the pipe.  You don't want the core to drop into the header.  It would be hard to get out without removing the header from the bike. 

[Jim Kerr]

Another pic of the core standing on its end...

[Jim Kerr]

Here's the final pic down the pipe after the converter has been removed.  Most, but not all of it is removed.  There is a small portion remaining; however, it significantly opens up pipe and allows the exhaust to exit unrestricted.  It's important to note here that the timing of the bike is set so the exhaust exits one cylinder and then the other.  They do not fire at the same time.  There's more than enough of an opening to let the exhaust flow out evenly. 

[Jim Kerr]

Here's a video of the exhaust note difference from with the cat to without.  I still have the stock muffler/pipes, so the sound difference isn't dramatic.  However, it is improved. 

I've also noticed that the bike is running cooler, that it is more responsive and the power curve is more linear. 

[guppytrash]

Thanks Jim
I heard your bike on you tube.  Sounds just a little louder than stock without the cc gone, which is exactly what I want.  I have a 09 CVO Ultra and will most likely do the same thing.  Any negatives to this that you can see so far.  I live in St. Charles so we might not be to far apart.  What do you think as far as impact on warranty?
Nice job on the post.
Thanks Again
 
  

[Jim Kerr]

I heard your bike on you tube.  Sounds just a little louder than stock without the cc gone, which is exactly what I want.  I have a 09 CVO Ultra and will most likely do the same thing.  Any negatives to this that you can see so far.  I live in St. Charles so we might not be to far apart.  What do you think as far as impact on warranty?

I have only seen positives so far.  It runs better, is cooler, etc.  I will let you all know if I have issues. 

The cat warranty will be history , but the rest of the bike should be fine.  My dealer even offered to do this for me.  It is ultimately up to moco, but I've found they will cover all items except the mod.  They will deny a warranty claim if damage can be tied to a mod, but this is rare.  The bike's computer will adjust for minor changes like this one, but it is always a good idea to get a race tuner and dyno the bike.  Even stock bikes with no changes should do this.  They run way to lean. 

[Guilty]

Jim, thank you for the detailed instructions and pictures and link for the coring drill bit. When you drilled out the cat, you said to "take your time and drill with a constant pressure" - how long do you estimate you spent drilling?

[Jim Kerr]

Jim, thank you for the detailed instructions and pictures and link for the coring drill bit. When you drilled out the cat, you said to "take your time and drill with a constant pressure" - how long do you estimate you spent drilling?

This is an easy project that anyone that knows how to turn a wrench can do.  If I count making my drill chuck, removing/reinstalling the saddlebag, cleanup, etc. it took me about an hour.  The trip to Home Depot was another 30 minutes.  The drilling process itself took about 15-20 minutes.  Removing the cc was priceless! 

[guppytrash]

Jim
It sounds a little louder than stock on the video, but it so hard to tell on the computer.  What is your opinion?
Definitely sounds like it revs quicker too.