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[Boatman]

I was in Pa in stop and go traffic on 30 going to York earlier this week (First time in 2200 miles I had been in that scenario).  I noticed on a couple occasions that my LH cooling fan was not exhausting air thru the exhaust port of the fairing while setting at a stoplight (and the RH fan was exhausting air)..  Just put hand down at a stop and felt for air on each side.

On a few occasions, both fans were blowing (same thing, sitting on bike at light and reaching down to feel for exhausted air).. 

Read in my 14 electrical diagnostic manual that you can test cooling fan and water pump operation by doing the following (bike can be hot or cold):

Turn run switch to run (do not start bike)

Roll throttle to WOT position and hold until fans run, then roll back throttle to idle (takes a couple seconds for fans to come on after holding to WOT)

Both fans will run as well as water pump

To stop test, turn run switch to off

Both of my cooling fans ran and exhausted air (I did not reach down to verify operation of a running electric water pump).  Will continue to monitor to make sure LH fan is blowing while at a light.  Can't take something in for repair if it is working.

FWIW
 

[mrmagloo]

I wonder if, like dual fan auto electric fans, if one goes on first at one set temp and the other doesn't come on until the next higher set temp? At that higher temp, then both run?

[Steve Cole]

The way HD and others have them, its both on, both off. We at TTS changed that operation in all of our shower head calibrations from day one, so that the left fan comes on and tries to cool the bike. The left side is the hottest water side so thats why we've done it, as you get the best temperature drop by cooling the hottest water. This takes the hot air from away from the air filter side as much as we could, so the engine doesn't suck it back in, then if the heat continues to climb the right fan kicks in. As the engine cools down the fans drop off or if the vehicle speed is greater than the fans can draw air through the radiators, the fans turn off. This method keeps the bike cooler for longer than the HD way! Just one of those little things we do with our calibrations that no one else has thought of.

[Boatman]

I have a TTS from Fullsac..  Mine appears to be working exactly the opposite.  The drawing shows the LH radiator to be the hot side as you stated and the RH the cool side.      The LH side was not running when the RH side was..

 

Any more info that can be given would be appreciated.

[HOGMIKE]

You can listen to the fans come on when you do the "test" by rolling the throttle "on" over half way, the left will come on then the right a split second later. (Try that at the dealership, most of the sales staff are clueless and they freak out when a bunch of the bikes have their fans come on!)
As Steve C has said (as I have on my bike) the left fan will activate at @185 F and drop off at @ 176 F
As the temp increases, the right fan will activate @ 203 F and off at @ 194 F.
The fan(s) and pump will also run @ one minute after shut down on hot days.
Last trip I took saw temps from lower 50's to 108 F and the bike ran flawless.

Thanks to the "Steves" for hooking me up with a great running tune!
 

[HOGMIKE]

I have a TTS from Fullsac..  Mine appears to be working exactly the opposite.  The drawing shows the LH radiator to be the hot side as you stated and the RH the cool side.      The LH side was not running when the RH side was..

 

Any more info that can be given would be appreciated.

Sometimes on dealer setup they miss checking the plug under the water pump, my bike had a similar issue, the plug connector was not fully seated and not making contact, a visual will not always show, make sure the plug is fully seated.
 

[Boatman]

Thanks for the explanations Mike.  I believe the water pump runs, just didn't reach under to touch it but I will.

[Phantom309]

Cool info! Thanks, never knew you could do this. I just tried it on mine and worked by turning ign, on (kill switch in run) held it wide open for 3 seconds and fans came on. Kill switch didn't turn them off but I just rolled it WO again and that did the trick. Too lazy to reach under for the pump and can't hear it over the fans but I know it works fine. During the summer I sometimes reach down to feel how hot the hoses get while on the bike.

Just re-read this and now see you said to turn the ignition off, not the kill switch to stop. Rolling the throttle back again for 3 seconds also works as I found out.

Tried it again and the kill switch position doesn't matter so I guess off would be better so you don't cycle the fuel pump if you're not going to start the bike. Neat trick, I really like this one.