Topic: Re: Dyno Numbers (Read 66271 times)

grc · « **Reply #120 on:** August 02, 2007, 07:58:14 PM »

Quote from: Dan_Lockwood on August 02, 2007, 05:24:07 PM

I have a quick question based on your dyno chart.

I know, I know, I shouldn't assume anything, but I'll go out on a limb on this one and assume the the more peaked bell curve in your dyno chart is for torque as that goes along with the legend stating torque on the right side of the chart. That torque curve looks very peaky though. The other upward to the right is the max power curve.

Torque is what a dyno records and hp is a calculation formula of torque and rpms.

That being said, ALL torque/power curves cross at 5250 rpms as a rule of this math formula. Your chart shows that happening way down around 4,000 rpms. I'm not sure how this can be.

I'll probably be going through all this later after my new '08 SERK gets in my hands.

Just thought I'd bring this up and see if anyone else has an answer for this.

Dan,

For some unknown reason, the dyno chart you referenced has unequal scales for torque and horsepower. Not sure why some places do that, but normally the scales are equal and the torque and hp curves cross at 5252 rpm as the formula dictates.

Jerry

Hoist! · « **Reply #121 on:** August 02, 2007, 09:50:08 PM »

Some dyno charts are set up differently than in the conventional manner. Just look at the scales on the chart and read it accordingly for Tq and HP. They always cross at 5252, as Jerry said, by formula, regardless how the charts are set up. Sometimes they're also plotted seperately. Don't worry about the appearance of the chart. Just look at the curve for each.

Hoist!

rednectum · « **Reply #122 on:** August 04, 2007, 07:36:27 AM »

Quote from: JDOFLHRIDER on October 30, 2006, 05:53:50 PM

I'M JUST CHECKING MY OPTIONS.WHEN I PUT MY MUFFLERS ON D AND D PIPES WEREN'T OUT YET.I LIKE THE SOUND OF MY MUFFLERS AND D AND SOUND ALSO .I JUST BEEN LOOKING TO SEE IF NUMBERS FROM D AND D'S ARE INCREASED ENOUGH TO CHANGE.RIGHT NOW IT LOOKS TO CLOSE TO CALL.MY LOCAL HD SHOP IS MOUNTING A SET OF BORZILLA'S ON A 110 THIS WEEK SO THAT MIGHT ANSWER FAT CAT OR BORZILLA'S CHOICE.LOL GOOD LUCK JDOFLHRIDER

boarzilla is too much pipe. you need 117 inch or more for it to work well. try the fatcat with quiet baffle for more power and a nicer exhaust tone, almost pleasant at cruise. another note, even tho you may see close numbers between other pipes and the fatcat, the bike with the fatcat spins up faster----hence quicker acceleration.

rlavigna · « **Reply #123 on:** August 04, 2007, 11:12:31 AM »

Put a few miles on my bike yesterday and love the way it rides compared to before. Just installed D&D Fatcats w/ quiet baffle, PCIII, SE 50MM, Throttle Body, SE 251 Cams, K&N AF. See my Dyno attached. I plan to get a better tune in the comings months...right now just going to ride. Any advice to get better performance without too much $$ is welcome. Thanks, Rich

rednectum · « **Reply #124 on:** August 06, 2007, 09:13:47 AM »

Quote from: Rich07 on August 04, 2007, 11:12:31 AM

Put a few miles on my bike yesterday and love the way it rides compared to before. Just installed D&D Fatcats w/ quiet baffle, PCIII, SE 50MM, Throttle Body, SE 251 Cams, K&N AF. See my Dyno attached. I plan to get a better tune in the comings months...right now just going to ride. Any advice to get better performance without too much $$ is welcome. Thanks, Rich

not much $$$$$? have you considered the 30 tooth motor sprocket?

Hoist! · « **Reply #125 on:** August 06, 2007, 09:34:30 AM »

Quote from: rednectum on August 06, 2007, 09:13:47 AM

not much $$$$$? have you considered the 30 tooth motor sprocket?

I've already spoken to him about that. When he sees how my bike flies out of the hole, he'll be changing that sprocket right after Sturgis!

Hoist!

rlavigna · « **Reply #126 on:** August 06, 2007, 09:36:03 AM »

Quote from: rednectum on August 06, 2007, 09:13:47 AM

not much $$$$$? have you considered the 30 tooth motor sprocket?

I like the way the bike comes off the line now compared to before. In the near future I do not plan to use the 30 tooth motor sprocket but will make my mind up after putting a bunch more miles on the current setup. It now has a significantly better low end torque curve and rides and feels great.

rlavigna · « **Reply #127 on:** August 06, 2007, 09:37:54 AM »

Quote from: Hoist on August 06, 2007, 09:34:30 AM

I've already spoken to him about that. When he sees how my bike flies out of the hole, he'll be changing that sprocket right after Sturgis! Hoist!

Howie, I did not get my work stuff completed and did not leave for Sturgis and will not be going. Looks like I will miss "No Panties Wednesday" in Hullet. R

Hoist! · « **Reply #128 on:** August 06, 2007, 10:02:04 AM »

Quote from: Rich07 on August 06, 2007, 09:37:54 AM

Howie, I did not get my work stuff completed and did not leave for Sturgis and will not be going. Looks like I will miss "No Panties Wednesday" in Hullet. R

That's a bummer Rich. I know how you were looking forward to "Wednesday"! Maybe you want to take a ride up to the Adirondaks this weekend? After we ride together, you can start thinking about that 30 tooth engine sprocket again!

Hoist!

UglyJohn · « **Reply #129 on:** September 10, 2007, 10:03:46 PM »

Well here's my Dyno map. Very slight mods are as follow: SERT, SE Mufflers, SE A/C. Pretty plain, but it works for me. Any recommendations or comments are welcomed.

I didn't get a copy of the Air/Fuel ratio, but shop said it wouldn't print out in it's entirety. If anyone knows of a program out there that I could download, buy etc.. let me know. I would like to be able to print out the dyno sheet in full.
UglyJohn

Unbalanced · « **Reply #130 on:** September 13, 2007, 11:48:42 PM »

Quote from: Dan_Lockwood on August 02, 2007, 05:24:07 PM

I have a quick question based on your dyno chart.

I know, I know, I shouldn't assume anything, but I'll go out on a limb on this one and assume the the more peaked bell curve in your dyno chart is for torque as that goes along with the legend stating torque on the right side of the chart. That torque curve looks very peaky though. The other upward to the right is the max power curve.

Torque is what a dyno records and hp is a calculation formula of torque and rpms.

That being said, ALL torque/power curves cross at 5250 rpms as a rule of this math formula. Your chart shows that happening way down around 4,000 rpms. I'm not sure how this can be.

I'll probably be going through all this later after my new '08 SERK gets in my hands.

Just thought I'd bring this up and see if anyone else has an answer for this.

Dan,

This is simply an oversight by the tuner when printing out the dyno that your referencing. The tuner did not click the box that forces the program to use force scale. By not forcing the scale you notice that the left vertical column numbers do not match the right side vertical column numbers. If they did you would see the lines intersecting at 5252. If you go along the dyno sheet and take numbers from it accurately and plug the numbers into this formula you see below you will see the numbers are accurate just the intersection of the lines is skewed due to the oversite.

(Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower

Unbalanced · « **Reply #131 on:** October 13, 2007, 08:10:11 PM »

Freedom FCC 14SEC-07 Gear Drive 110" Rineharts True Duals, SE A/C

Unbalanced · « **Reply #132 on:** October 13, 2007, 08:12:21 PM »

110" Rinehart True Dual, HP Inc A/C, 58mm Throttlebody, Cycle-Rama Headwork, 595 Cycle Rama Cam

rednectum · « **Reply #133 on:** October 13, 2007, 08:37:42 PM »

some dyno software does not have forced scaling.

Unbalanced · « **Reply #134 on:** October 13, 2007, 09:13:27 PM »

Rednectum,

In my case the forced scaling was specific to DynoJet Software as was the comment to the Dynojet dyno sheet that Dan questioned on the previous page.

Just curious which dyno software your referring to that does not have/utilize forced scaling?

Author Topic: Re: Dyno Numbers (Read 66271 times)