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[Twolanerider]

Apologies first for what’s a much longer write up than planned.  Let one of the other interested riders take a first look after the install earlier in the week.  He is in his own words “wrench challenged” and wanted considerably more detail.  Since others might benefit also a rewrite was done to offer much more help.  

If pics and install discussion aren’t your thing feel free to jump to the summary at the end.  Got on the dyno today.   Dyno comparison in the summary and a probably too long sharing of how impressed I am with the EMS package.

Note that the comparative dyno runs shown in the summary are for comparison to each other only.  We all know different dynos will all report differently.  The comparison isn’t for raw numbers but to show the before and after difference as reported from the same machine.

As the EMS package has had its discussion here on the site a half dozen of us have been chatting about it privately.  Thought someone else might guinea pig an install before I was ready to use it myself on the upcoming Road King project.  The Power Commander on the SEEG has gotten flaky though.  So rather than replace the PC it became my excuse to take the EMS product out for a spin.

The installation was simple.  Simple enough, in fact, that a heavily documented installation isn’t warranted for many.  A couple of those of us that were interested self-admittedly don’t fall in that group though.  So for them and anyone else for whom more detail is better than less here we go:

[Twolanerider]

It should be noted for anyone considering this kit that it is a “process” purchase.  What you get out of the box at first delivery is not immediately ready for the bike.  In fact the “good stuff” happens at Revolution Performance’s shop.

You’ll get a package like this.  Two boxes inside another.  One has the harness, o2 sensors and a module they call an “interpreter box.”  The other box is empty.  You’ll send your ECM to them in this package.  It comes with a FedEx label already on the box.  One day shipping to Revolution Performance and one day back to you. 

The “good stuff” that gets done away from your bike is the work they do to your ECM.  Revolution Performance loads a map specific to your engine build according to the specifications you provide.  They’ve cracked the code necessary to write to the ECMs.  In a Steve Austin moment they make your stock ECM “bigger, better, stronger.” 

More accurately it seems what they actually do is make it “smarter” and far more adaptive.  Functionalities and adaptability are added to the system it never had before.  This is the gain that most intrigued me.  Getting a good base map in the process is, while absolutely important, an icing on the proverbial cake.

HD’s first attempt at on board engine management starting in 2006 used o2 sensors the auto industry had used and abandoned by the end of the 1980s.  Same sensor suite has been in place by HD until the recent changes with the 2011 bikes.  So we were gifted an antiquated system to begin with.  Just as a good radio can’t ever be “good” with cheap speakers no engine management system can do more than its sensor suite will allow.  Especially when only limited capability is written in to the ECM’s base code and that overall suite’s effect on the bike is further limited by EPA compliant base maps.

The sensors included here are a modern Bosch sensor.  Revolution Performance makes changes to the ECM that, working in concert with the new module, make for an actually modern engine management system on a Harley.  Not close.  Not some potential gain that only begins to bear fruit with hours and hours of effort after the install or requires expensive dyno time.  Just a product that is  modern, capable, actually adaptive and easy.

[Twolanerider]

These are the new parts you’ll add to the bike.  It’s an easy install that you can do after dinner one evening while the ECM travels back and forth to Revolution Performance.   Two oxygen sensors that are identical except for a color band on one that’s there only to distinguish one from the other.  That band marks which of the two connectors from the new harness it will attach to.

The new “interpreter module” is made as a unit with the remainder of the new harness you’ll install.  The installation ahead will be very similar for anyone whose bike isn’t equipped with electronic throttle.

[Twolanerider]

Some have concern over working with or removing the ECM.  No need for any such concern.  ECM is under the right side cover.  In my case under the Power Commander.  Nothing else in the way.  Only tools needed for removal are one allen socket for the two ECM bolts and a wrench to take off the battery cable.  On any bike with the self arming alarm system be sure and put the bike in service mode before you unhook the battery. 

Take off the saddlebags and side covers, remove the seat, put the alarm system in service mode if need be, unhook the battery and remove the ECM.  It can all be done before the automatic garage door opener light turns off. 

In fact the entire EMS installation can be done in well under an hour.  The only caveat to this is the exhaust system.  Pre 2006 bikes came without oxygen sensors.  If an exhaust change has never been made that included sensor ports these bungs will need to be welded to your current exhaust system.

Even this need not slow up the overall install.  You can mark a sensor location on your pipes then remove the pipes and take them to any local muffler shop to get bungs welded on.  Do this while the ECM is making its round trip to Revolution Performance and you’ve lost no time at all in the overall installation.

This 05 has D&D Fatcats that already had bungs.  So I had the simplest possible installation.  Anyone else with an 04 or 05 might have to pull their pipes though.  Those of us that have these bikes have the most difficult potential EMS install.  For everyone else; it’s even easier.

[Twolanerider]

As EMS has been discussed privately a common concern has been the new harness install and “electrical work.”  “Electrical work” worries many.  One specific concern was new harness location and placement if doing the install while the ECM was away since the new module wouldn’t be in its home location.

With the ECM removed the ECM caddy has openings through it.  You can zip tie the new module to a position almost identical to where it will live in actual service and do your installation from there.  No longer any need to worry about location or position for wire placements.

[Twolanerider]

There is very little “electrical work” for the EMS installation.  Even that small amount is very simple and shouldn’t worry anyone.  This pic is the new harness you’ll be adding.  There are only five loose wires.  Only two that don’t simply plug in to a pre-existing socket or bolt to a ground.

Only two wires must be connected to existing wires on the bike.  One powers the module and runs across in front of the battery to the fuse panel.  The other stays under the right side cover and connect to a wire in the ECM bundle.

[Twolanerider]

Making new wiring connections was also a large concern for some.  Even more than pulling the pipes and getting a muffler shop to weld on o2 bungs.  Pipes just unbolt and bolt back on.  This is “wiring.”  Wiring scares the hell out of many of us.

Fortunately the supplied parts are pieces to make the “new” connections to existing wires make it all very easy.  This pic shows how they do it. 

Top left position shows what would be the existing wire on the bike in a cup that screws in to the wire tap device.

Top right shows that cup screwed in to the tap so that the contact pin can puncture the insulation and touch the wires inside.  Also seen is what would be the new wire from the EMS harness slid in to the small cap that screws in to the other end of the wire tap.

Bottom left is a completely assembled connection.  No cutting, twisting, taping, crimping or soldering. 

Bottom right.  The arrow points to the small puncture that is done to the existing wire on the bike.  That is the only damage done to your existing harness.  No wire strands are broken.  It could be removed at a later date without even being taped over.

[Twolanerider]

This pic is to visualize where you’ll add the o2 sensor bungs if adding them is part of your installation.  The written instructions provided with the EMS kit describe this.  The docs say to position the sensors six to eight inches down from each cylinder head.  Don’t deviate from this if possible.  No more than would be absolutely necessary depending on the angle and position of your pipes.  For the oxygen sensors to send good data to the system they need to be in the proper location.

Also, don’t just hold the new bungs against the pipes when looking for a location.  As you’re picking the location hold the sensors up there also.  You have to have enough room for the sensor to install.  Make sure it will not contact with anything around it.

[Twolanerider]

A tool that might be helpful is a socket specifically made for these sensors.  Open on one side to allow the sensor harness to slip through.  You can also use a crows foot tool or an open end wrench.  Size is 7/8". 

Open end wrench works if you’ve got the pipes off the bike.  If pipes are on the bike, however, a sensor socket is a real help.  Especially for the front sensor.  Since it’s not something you’ll likely use often might consider an inexpensive socket that can be had at Harbor Freight for less than $7.00 and is their part number 95045 (not the same as socket in the picture).

[Twolanerider]

When installing the sensor start it by hand.  It’s a fine thread.  Same thread as a spark plug.  Just as you’d always hand start a spark plug do the same with these.  Use the other hand to keep the tail of the harness “behind” the sensor so it’s out of the way.

[Twolanerider]

Once the sensors are installed it’s time to pay close attention to an important part of your effort in the installation; the harness routings.  You’ll need to make sure nothing contacts something it should not and that all new wire runs are securely out of harm’s way.

In my case the front sensor harness easily goes to the left down tube and turns downhill.  On bikes with oil coolers the cooler might be in the way of easily routing the sensor harness across the frame down below.  Three nuts under the cooler loosen it to allow easy routing.  Get the new harness generally in place where it will live and mate the harness from the new module to it before strapping anything down permanently. 

Be liberal with the wire ties to strap things down.  More secure rather than less is good.  Wires that can’t move while the bike is moving or under vibration are wires that will never chafe.

[Twolanerider]

Shown here is where the harness from the new module and the front sensor harness meet in this installation.  Note the yellow color bands on both ends so you know you are mating what Revolution Performance intends to be the front sensor to the front sensor connection. 

The packaged wire lengths were perfect for this routing.  The front sensor harness dropped down beside the left down tube (as shown in the prior pic), crossed over to the left side behind the oil cooler and dropped down under the bike.

[Twolanerider]

Now see the wire routing completed.  Or more accurately don’t see it.  With it properly routed and secured everything is well beside the frame tube.  Any wire too low or actually beneath the frame tube is a wire too easily damaged by road debris or pinched if you unexpectedly hop a curb or a speed bump.  The “tails” are shown here still on the wire ties to show where the harness is strapped down.  The tails have of course since been cut off.

[Twolanerider]

The red arrow points at what may be the most important strapping location on the front sensor harness.  The harness drops down between the frame and swingarm before it turns forward, goes over the dog bone (frame cross member) and meets the front sensor plug.  If not strapped securely to the frame tube at this point it could chafe against the moving swingarm.  Always make sure the harness is secure when close to any moving part.

[Twolanerider]

Compared to front sensor harness routing the rear is much simpler.  Drop the plug behind the starter down on top of the swingarm.  From the other side reach through the V shaped hole in the frame below where the ECM mounted and retrieve the end of the harness.  It will mate to the new harness under the right side cover and will be secured there when tying up the rest of the new harness.

I did put a loosely pulled wire tie to hold the sensor harness to the negative battery cable.  It is unlikely that once secured the harness would have enough play to come over and touch the drive belt.  But, once again, a harness can never be too well secured on a motorcycle.