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CVO Technical => Drive Train => Topic started by: johnmowcop on October 27, 2019, 06:00:42 AM
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Hello, Bit of advice please
2011 CVO Ultra RoadGlide 48k miles.
Went to get the bike out of the garage this morning, for the first time ever with a Harley (I have had seven of them) there was oil underneath it. It's red so its the redline shockproof I have in the gearbox.
I have to go out today, so left it in the garage. A quick look under seems to me the oil is coming from high up on the horizontal bit of casing above the oil pan on the right hand side. Is there a breather up there?
The only abnormal activity the bike has experiencedis; last weekend (the Friday before)
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Hello, Bit of advice please
2011 CVO Ultra RoadGlide 48k miles.
Went to get the bike out of the garage this morning, for the first time ever with a Harley (I have had seven of them) there was oil underneath it. It's red so its the redline shockproof I have in the gearbox.
I have to go out today, so left it in the garage. A quick look under seems to me the oil is coming from high up on the horizontal bit of casing above the oil pan on the right hand side. Is there a breather up there?
The only abnormal activity the bike has experiencedis; last weekend (the Friday before)
You mean on the primary side? If so there are a few places that fluid could leak from, shifter shaft, drive gear seal, etc
there is a vent on the top cover of transmission.
Good luck and keep us informed
there is a common problem with the lower bolts on clutch actuation cover on right side, exhaust bracket mounting bolts, coming loose and allowing trans fluid to leak out. It's tough to trace down leak at times.
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John, TN is right, if you're talking about the right side as you are sitting on the bike (the side with the rear brake pedal), the number one suspect on that side are the trans side cover bolts that also secure the exhaust hanger bracket. It was an all-to-common issue some years back.
Jerry
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TN and GRC
Thank's each for your replies.
I did not finish my post off, it should have continued with: "The only abnormal activity the bike has experienced is last weekend, (the Friday before), I took the bike to Dynojet UK, they had it on the rolling road to fit and programme a Dynojet Power Vision download (really good results from that I might add). On the dyno they obviously ran it a number of times to engine speeds and loads this bike has never experienced."
That's why I asked about the breathing.
Jerry, yes it is the brake pedal side. ? so is it potentially just a matter of re-tightening the bolts that hold the bracket on or is it likely to be more involved than that.
JohnT
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If the bolts are loose, you could just retighten them but if you want a longer term fix you should remove the bolts, thoroughly degrease them and the threads in the case, then apply a thread locker (medium strength) before reinstalling the bolts. Unfortunately you will most likely need to remove the exhaust to get decent access. Before doing all that you might want to see if you can slip a wrench up to the bolts from the bottom and see if the bolts are actually loose. Or clean the area thoroughly and go for a ride, then recheck to see if you see signs of fresh leakage. Leaks can be a pain to track down, but at least the red dye in the Shockproof helps pinpoint it to the trans. Good luck.
Jerry
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Thanks' Jerry for taking the time to help.
JohnT
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Had that exact same leak, as already mentioned I just tried to tighten the fasteners up but in the end I did have to loosen off the exhaust pull the fasteners from the mounting bracket and clean out the holes then loctite them. Haven't had any issues since that was about 3 yr ago.
Let us know how you make out.
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Seems like the cap screws, or one of them, is the problem. The least accessible one took about three turns to tighten, the rest are tight. I 'll see out it goes on for stopping the leak.
As always, thanks everyone.
JohnT
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Correction there are two screws loose. The least accessible and the least-least accessible (I didn't see this one first time around).
Taking it off the road soon, "they" have started chucking salt around. I will do it properly then, even fit a couple of shakeproof washers.
Thanks all for your help.
JohnT
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I'd be careful about the lock washers due to the fact it will reduce the threading of the fasteners biting up in the casing, I know it's not a lot, but the casing being aluminium (soft metal) the fasteners need all the threads it can get to be able to hold its torque and the threads not fail in the casing, safer to use blue stud fastener "loctite" just saying.
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Like above!! I would not use washers, thread lock will do the job.. Best wishes.
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Thanks all for your comments.
Done the right thing today, loosened exhaust and pulled the capscrews out. Flushed the internal and external threads with carb cleaner and put locktight on the threads. Couldn't use shakeproof washers anyway, unless I cut off the captive flat washer. Hopefully this is the permanent fix until the next time.
Regards
JohnT
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Good going :2vrolijk_21: :orange: :bananarock: