Some bikes do use oil in my experience, some more than others. They HAVE to be ridden to use it though.
just my .02: having been turning a wrench and building and rebuilding engines since i could walk, my personal experience is that there are some problems that are introduced by babying the engine too much on break-in. rings need pressure to seat well, and babying the engine too much (especially by folks that baby it more than the manual calls for, intending to be "extra nice" to their brand new baby), end up with issues down the road. Breaking in the CVO, manual calls for "3500 RPM or less", and i let her get up to 4K semi-regularly.
There was a time when more babying was necessary due to piston/cylinder clearance, etc however modern machining and production consistency doesn't really necessitate the same care as in previous generations. When i changed the oil at 735mi, it actually looked reasonably clean (dark honey), which indicates to me that even though i am through the bulk of the break-in, the engine was build and machined well enough so as to not destroy the oil in the first 1k as in the past.
Hell, i changed the oil at 1k on my wife's Hayabusa (granted, the engine, trans and clutch share common oil), and it looked like absolute crap! clutch material, black as coal, shiny bits. exactly what i'd expect break-in oil to look like. The 110" CVO (chinese or not) oil was hardly used, and not destroyed by any stretch of the imagination. To me, this speaks volumes as to engine build quality, and machining tolerances. I actually expected the 110" to be worse than the Hayabusa, especially given that the Hayabusa is an I-4 OHC, water-cooled 1300cc, and the HD is an air-cooled big-@$$ lawnmower engine,
. i am definitely impressed by the power i get out of the 110" though, especially given that i've moved from a softtail to a glide. 100lbs more on the CVO limited, and still a crap load of power. definitely not slow. The softtail was a bit of a slug (carburetted TC88, 5-speed). Plus, i'm loving the EFI. easier starting, no choking, runs really well.
Back to the whole point of this: if the engine was babied excessively on break-in, and the rings never really seated well, the only cure (at this point for you) is to hone the cylinders and fresh rings. if the cylinder walls are glazed and the rings never really seated, that's the only cure. The fresh hone is needed to seat new rings, just ride the crap out of it this time (if it's not the valve guides, that is).