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Author Topic: 2011 103"  (Read 3476 times)

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vrog

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2011 103"
« on: May 04, 2011, 10:40:09 PM »

Not sure if this is the right spot to ask.

What is a brand new zero mile 2011 103" out of a street glide worth? Is this motor a good starting point for a build?
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Spiderman

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2011, 10:47:44 PM »

What it's worth depends on what you want from it ?
Obviously the 103 even in stock condition has more Oomph than a 96"
But is that enough for you ?
Have you ridden a 2011 103"
I have and they're nice but not as potent as my used to be a 96" built up 103"
Then there's the little matter of asking price.
If I had a stock standard issue 2011 H-D with a 96" motor and somebody offered me a 2011 103" motor for say $3k, yeah, that'd be worth it.
If they wanted anything north of $3,500 I'd be sinking that money into my 96, keeping my matching VIN and Engine # intact and ending being happier for it.
Bottom line is as with all things, it comes down to money. How much something is worth is how much it's worth to YOU. Not me, not Naitram, not d00d or JCZ but YOU.

That's all I've got given what you gave me to work with

B B
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vrog

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2011, 11:04:51 PM »

What it's worth depends on what you want from it ?
Obviously the 103 even in stock condition has more Oomph than a 96"
But is that enough for you ?
Have you ridden a 2011 103"
I have and they're nice but not as potent as my used to be a 96" built up 103"
Then there's the little matter of asking price.
If I had a stock standard issue 2011 H-D with a 96" motor and somebody offered me a 2011 103" motor for say $3k, yeah, that'd be worth it.
If they wanted anything north of $3,500 I'd be sinking that money into my 96, keeping my matching VIN and Engine # intact and ending being happier for it.
Bottom line is as with all things, it comes down to money. How much something is worth is how much it's worth to YOU. Not me, not Naitram, not d00d or JCZ but YOU.

That's all I've got given what you gave me to work with

B B

Thanks for the response. I have not rode a bike with the new 103.  Was having a conversation with a friend about pulling out a brand new 103" and putting in a 120R and trying to sell the 103" to get some money back. I figured the same, $3-$3,500.
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2011, 07:03:54 AM »

Doubt if that'll pull that kind of dough..........
For about $3500.00, the savy guy, can have a 107"(120/120)from his 96",(minus tuning)that'll blow the ever-lovin' shorts off that OE 103"er boat anchor. :)
Scott
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vrog

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2011, 08:17:08 AM »

Doubt if that'll pull that kind of dough..........
For about $3500.00, the savy guy, can have a 107"(120/120)from his 96",(minus tuning)that'll blow the ever-lovin' shorts off that OE 103"er boat anchor. :)
Scott

well in that case, what if you threw $3000-$3,500 at the 103"? But at that point does it make sense just to buy the 120R? Thanks for your professional opinion. ( I'm being serious as i install floors and have no clue about motors! )
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Half_Crazy

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2011, 08:58:33 AM »

well in that case, what if you threw $3000-$3,500 at the 103"? But at that point does it make sense just to buy the 120R? Thanks for your professional opinion. ( I'm being serious as i install floors and have no clue about motors! )

People seem to think that by buying the 120R they will get power and reliability... but the 120R out of the crate still needs the crank/bottom end beefed up, some more compression, and if it were me, a little head work too. While the 120R crate motor is a great start, it's not 'all good to go' right out of the crate... if it was it wouldn't be so cheap.
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vrog

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2011, 10:16:12 AM »

People seem to think that by buying the 120R they will get power and reliability... but the 120R out of the crate still needs the crank/bottom end beefed up, some more compression, and if it were me, a little head work too. While the 120R crate motor is a great start, it's not 'all good to go' right out of the crate... if it was it wouldn't be so cheap.

Do you mean it needs all of the above just like thats what our 110's need in order to get the most out of them? I have been reading up quite a bit on this and it seems that Harley and Vance & Hines have done a lot of testing on these 102R's. Seems as if the guys who just throw them in are with the 125/125+ are more than happy. A few others have changed cams trying to get more TQ earlier are regretting it. If left alone as designed buy Harley I'm wondering if its just as good as the 110's?
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Unbalanced

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2011, 10:58:40 AM »

People seem to think that by buying the 120R they will get power and reliability... but the 120R out of the crate still needs the crank/bottom end beefed up, some more compression, and if it were me, a little head work too. While the 120R crate motor is a great start, it's not 'all good to go' right out of the crate... if it was it wouldn't be so cheap.

Half Crazy,

Do you have any first hand personal experience with the 120r to speak from?   What failures have "You" seen so far?   Why does it need more compression if they are making 120/120 out of the box for most people that is near perfect compared to what they are coming from and in a lot of cases its nearing 1 /12 to 2 times what they already have such as a stock 103 motor.  Hell most 110 owners are looking for 120/120 without the compression out the roof.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2011, 11:01:18 AM by Unbalanced »
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Half_Crazy

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2011, 11:32:57 AM »

It's always more cost effective to do it right the first time. I wish I heeded that advice two years ago, but no, I had to learn the lesson the hard way! That little bit of education cost me 6 months time and $6,000.

No, I don't have ANY experience with the 120R. I would suggest talking to some reputable engine builders and doing a whole lot of reading/studying before plunking down lots of cash. From what I can glean off the web, the 120R crank is not welded and the cams that come with it could use more compression to work at their best efficiency. Why settle for a 'maybe' on reliability and settle for 120/120 on power, when you can have a 'yes' on reliablity and make an easy 135/135 with great low end torque?

Just sayin' 

  
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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2011, 11:39:26 AM »

The 266 cam is running at about 3/4's of a point shy on compression to pull full effectiveness from it, our a plug/play Wood 408. :)
Scott
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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2011, 11:41:04 AM »

Half Crazy,

Do you have any first hand personal experience with the 120r to speak from?   What failures have "You" seen so far?   Why does it need more compression if they are making 120/120 out of the box for most people that is near perfect compared to what they are coming from and in a lot of cases its nearing 1 /12 to 2 times what they already have such as a stock 103 motor.  Hell most 110 owners are looking for 120/120 without the compression out the roof.

120 square, is a day at the beach, for a 110"er set up correctly. :)
Scott
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JCZ

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2011, 11:52:54 AM »

120 square, is a day at the beach, for a 110"er set up correctly. :)
Scott

And back to Harry's comment.....in that 110" set up correctly, what would the compression be?
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Spiderman

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2011, 11:56:31 AM »

Just for chits and giggles, let's toss into this discussion the reliability factor. There's no doubt you can build a rocket motor out of almost any stock H-D, or you can buy a big inch fast motor, spend more money and make it go even faster. One thing you never see is any metrics on the reliability of any of the big aftermarket motors. At best you join a forum like this one and hope you can glean some useful information on what you can expect to get for your hard earned Benjamins out of motors A, B, C or D. Another issue is how fast is fast enough - - -or too fast. At what point are you building something you truly only get to make use of on those rare occasions when you throw caution to the wind (ie - -ignore the possibility of getting caught) or you take the vehicle to a track. A long time ago I had to have bigger better faster more. At some point, I got tired of tickets and insurance costs being through the roof and something always needing attention mechanically and decided to settle for faster than OEM but still reliable and not so insanely quick as to keep me in a constant adrenaline rush which renders me unable to think logically.

And that's my soapbox for the day


B B
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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2011, 12:38:49 PM »

And back to Harry's comment.....in that 110" set up correctly, what would the compression be?

And to answer Harry's question.........
It would have the same, or a tick less, ccp as an OEM 255(ie, "school bus cam") equipped 110", and run down the road at a corrected compression of approx. 9.6, and run cooler as well, doing so. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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vrog

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Re: 2011 103"
« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2011, 12:44:04 PM »

Everyone is making good points here. I guess what I'm asking is the 120R similiar to the 110" we have as far as reliablility?
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