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Author Topic: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue  (Read 2426 times)

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Puzzled

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2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« on: January 13, 2017, 07:08:04 PM »

For about a year I have been battling a clutch problem. My issue is that I would loose the clutch after a few hours of riding or if I got in heavy traffic. An adjustment of the clutch would bring it back to life, temporarily. I had no leaking fluid, the master cylinder wasn't going dry, the clutch discs look great (not worn). One attempt at fixing this was to add a stronger pressure plate, that didn't help. I rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder on the trans, that didn't help. I gave in and switched to a cable system. While it works my aging hands aren't liking the cable plus it doesn't look as good as the hydraulic setup.... So researching the internet I found the recall on the clutch masters for the 14 and up bikes. This however is not the problem I'm having with my 13. I'd like to go back to hydraulic... I'm not certain what part or parts to replace. Sitting here thinking of the work I did to keep the bike moving and I think something was causing the slave cylinder to push the rod thus releasing the pressure on the discs. I say this as I'd have to release the pressure in/on the line in order to be able to adjust the clutch.I could replace the master and slave which I'm not against. This method won't tell me what the issue was/is though. So any thoughts?

PM/BDL belt drive, Alto clutch discs, heavy pressure plate, PM slave cylinder, HD stock master cylinder, HD stock line.
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Twolanerider

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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2017, 07:49:54 PM »

Mike,

While I'm sure you thought of it the intermittent loss of clutch function followed by its divine recovery is the text book description for boiled hydraulic fluid.  You absolutely sure you didn't have hydraulics too close to exhaust somewhere?
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Twolanerider

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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2017, 07:51:12 PM »

Mike,

While I'm sure you thought of it the intermittent loss of clutch function followed by its divine recovery is the text book description for boiled hydraulic fluid.  You absolutely sure you didn't have hydraulics too close to exhaust somewhere?

Never mind.  Just re-read to actually notice you'd swapped to cable.  Remember you talking about that previously now that I've read it again here too.

Oh well, post count went up....
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grc

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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2017, 07:52:14 PM »

Check for overheating of the clutch fluid due to close proximity of the fluid line to the exhaust system.  It's been a problem for many people, and some have added insulation to the line.  One tip-off is that your problem occurs after riding a long time or when sitting in traffic, both of which builds up heat in the fluid.  Also look for the highest boiling point fluid you can find.

Jerry
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Puzzled

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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2017, 07:58:19 PM »

Thank you both. Heat was a thought at one time than I dismissed it as the line has been routed the same since day one....or so I think. I very well could have moved it. I'll run the line again and pay attention to the routing.

Would this heat sink cause the loss of clutch engagement?
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grc

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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2017, 09:43:34 PM »

Thank you both. Heat was a thought at one time than I dismissed it as the line has been routed the same since day one....or so I think. I very well could have moved it. I'll run the line again and pay attention to the routing.

Would this heat sink cause the loss of clutch engagement?

It would usually cause  the clutch to not release completely when you pull the lever, similar to having excessive air in the fluid.  I thought that was the issue you were talking about.  If you are actually talking about the clutch slipping, that could also be due to the fluid level being too high in the master cylinder.  When the fluid heats up and expands, or when the clutch plates wear, fluid is forced back into the reservoir.  If there isn't sufficient room for that fluid, the actuator would then move and cause the clutch to slip.  Always keep the fluid level on a hydraulic clutch no higher than the fill line, and even slightly below it.

Jerry

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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #6 on: January 14, 2017, 10:26:07 AM »

my 13 had issues with the master early in its life, HD rebuilt the master cyl. (clutch lever went flat, would not disengage) so my thinking is the recall they have/had for the 14/15s was an issue before they came forward. no problem after the repair FYI
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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2017, 10:31:44 AM »

My issue is the opposite, won't engage.

I'm going to install it all again and pay attention to line routing and fluid level as Jerry suggested.
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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2017, 06:05:58 PM »

The slave cylinder showed up today. The line will be here by the end of the week. I'm going to re-use the clutch master cylinder. With a little luck I'll get to it this weekend.
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Re: 2013 clutch master cylinder issue
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2017, 07:55:00 PM »

I worked on the bike today and learned a few things.

The install of the new parts was straight forward and only took a couple of hours. I spent better than 3 1/2 hours trying to bleed the clutch. It just wouldn't build pressure, WTF? I couldn't force fluid up through the line to the master cylinder or pull fluid down through. This had me baffled. I checked every connection to insure fluid flow. I tested the slave cylinder with low air pressure. I tested the master cylinder to make sure it was moving fluid. Ok I'm stumped. This should only take ten minutes to bleed.

So I pulled the master cylinder and a thought popped into my head. Why was the MC still full of fluid after being off of the bike since September? It certainly should have all leaked out, it didn't. I disassembled the MC as I had nothing to loose. It is a very basic piece once you look at it. While cleaning it I noticed the hole for fluid transfer and a dimple next to it. I continued cleaning the MC using only the pressure from the brake clean can. After cleaning the MC my dimple was actually a hole. It wasn't a hole when I took it apart. Assembled and back on the bike with fluid in it and within a few pulls of the lever I had pressure.

So I am thinking this has been my problem all along. As Jerry suggested the fluid wasn't returning to the MC. This is why I'd have clutch than loose it as the day went on. The fluid was going down but not back up. This would explain why I had to release fluid each time I adjusted the clutch. A simple piece of debris in the MC.

I installed the new line inside the frame with protective covering as I was thinking heat build up was the issue. A quick test in the garage and the clutch worked well. The lever was far easier to pull in than it has been for some time. As soon as I get a nice day I'll test the bike.  :2vrolijk_21: :orange: :carrot:
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