Stator or voltage regulator?? :nixweiss:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Get the battery first. Check your plugs. Could be the coil. Or bring it to Vern! ;)He already mentioned that you said that in his first post along w/asking for any other ideas. I mentioned stator because I know when my stator went bad on my Fatboy I noticed weird electrical things going on.
Hoist! 8)
He already mentioned that you said that in his first post along w/asking for any other ideas. I mentioned stator because I know when my stator went bad on my Fatboy I noticed weird electrical things going on.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
You've just got a phobia to changing batteries!!! :nixweiss: :nixweiss: :nixweiss: ;D ;)Negative don't have any phobia's at all. He was asking for other ideas and I was giving them. I'm not stuck on certain things like some people. ;) :)
But you can't troubleshoot anything electrical til you know you have a good battery! ;)
Hoist! 8)
You've just got a phobia to changing batteries!!! :nixweiss: :nixweiss: :nixweiss: ;D ;)Add to that a bad stator or voltage regulater can kill a battery. I know that for a fact because when my stator went bad it ruined the battery.
But you can't troubleshoot anything electrical til you know you have a good battery! ;)
Hoist! 8)
Negative don't have any phobia's at all. He was asking for other ideas and I was giving them. I'm not stuck on certain things like some people. ;) :)
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Seems ya are! ::) :P ;DAgain your ability to read interpret the written word (yours or others) is failing you. I never said that it couldn't be the battery I was giving other ideas like the original poster asked. But again I know you'll have some comment/post after this, because that's what you do. You talk a lot but you don't listen, and because I have a more respect for Neal's house (forum) then obviously some do then I'll not post what I really think nor will I comment any more on your ridiculous posts. Have a great day. :2vrolijk_21:
Hoist! 8)
Again your ability to read interpret the written word (yours or others) is failing you. I never said that it couldn't be the battery I was giving other ideas like the original poster asked. But again I know you'll have some comment/post after this, because that's what you do. You talk a lot but you don't listen, and because I have a more respect for Neal's house (forum) then obviously some do then I'll not post what I really think nor will I comment any more on your ridiculous posts. Have a great day. :2vrolijk_21:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
. . .
[edit to add] It looks like batteries are a sensitive subject ( :o) but you mentioned that yours is 2-3 years old. It might be overkill but I replace my battery every two years. I ride mostly in the boondocks and don't want to hike home so I figure the cost of a new battery before it's necessary is cheap insurance.
:huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:
:huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:
Now, now Brian, I'll be good! :huepfenjump3: :huepfenjump3: :huepfenjump3:
I don't think that's the case Mike! And I have the same philosophy myself for batteries! ;)
Hoist! 8)
:huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:That is funny, because they definitely aren't to me. ;) :huepfenlol2:
You laughing at my battery replacement practices? :nixweiss:
>:( >:( >:(
;D ;D ;D
Actually, I didn't get past the mid point of the first sentence! :huepfenjump3: :drink: :huepfenlol2:Never thought of it that away. I'm still good to go then mine is usually green by the time (about 1 -2 hours) I let the bike cool off to come back to wipe it down. :2vrolijk_21:
2 years, if using a BT, may be overkill, but 3 years regardless seems about right. If you use a BT, you can tell about how good the battery still is by the amount of time it takes to get to full charge. Noticed earlier in the season the SEEG taking 6+ hours before the green light went from flashing to solid green after a ride whereas the FXR3 or SERG (new batteries in both this spring) got there in less than 2 hours, usually 1. Decided then, time for a new SEEG battery! :2vrolijk_21:
Never thought of it that away. I'm still good to go then mine is usually green by the time (about 1 -2 hours) I let the bike cool off to come back to wipe it down. :2vrolijk_21:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Disclaimer to earlier post: Your experience may differ! :nervous: But, just keep goin', Gary! :2vrolijk_21: Maybe you'll win a free BT or H-D battery for going the longest! :huepfenlol2:I'll be the "poster biker" for them. :P :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:
.....you live in Florida....not Alaska....LOL.....
YOU KNOW I AM TEASIN.....BUT EVERY TWO YEARS!!!!
Okay, okay. Maybe I'll try to get THREE years out of the battery I have now. :nervous:
But I'm calling you if I get marooned in the swamp somewhere. ;D
But one morning you can jump on and BINGO! No juice!!! No fun on the road! It ain't worth taking the risk to me for 90 bucks every 2 years! ;)
BTW, always use the ones from H-D. The MoCo would never sell you something of inferior quality.
I removed the petcock and found some hair like fibers and something like a strip of paint/tape?????? I then cleaned the opening of the tank and reached in as far as possible. When I looked in I saw a more of the same stuff--like tape stuff, gray in color. .... thought maybe the tank /screen is blocked again. So again I removed the petcock and the screen was clean.
I removed the petcock and found some hair like fibers and something like a strip of paint/tape?????? I then cleaned the opening of the tank and reached in as far as possible. When I looked in I saw a more of the same stuff--like tape stuff, gray in color.
Yes Mike, I peeled it off the inside of the tank. Also there was some on the screen.
Another product for tank sealing is POR15. Some say it works better than Kreem.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=HDCTRK&dept=12
I'd really be interested in hearing anyinput from anyone who has used either of these.
Hey Mike, so what's the verdict.....I mean what would you guys all do with George's tank problem? Would you all think about "replacing" it or taking the route of trying the products you mentioned above? Anyone priced out a new tank for these bikes?
If your regulator is bad they will probably have to order from the factory as I just went through this myself because no one seems to stock a CHROME one. My symtoms were check engine light and battery light came on as I watched the volt meter drop down to zero and then bounce back as high as 13.75. Only now with new regulator have the same thing going on so back in the shop waiting on an answer. Sure hate to listen to a service writer trying to blow smoke up my azz. Last time had to burn a whole day on the charger before they would even look at it. This time I brought my own battery tender and had them hook it up before I left that way no excuse. Anyway called yesterday to check status and found out service writer had it ready to be torn apart to do the update 905. Almost lost my Baisley worked heads for new stock ones and more. I did not ask for this at all, just want the original issue fixed. I informed her my heads are not leaking now and I have two years to get this done. Trouble is I don't have to ask I know why, bigger warranty money for service writer to get paid commission on. :soapbox: arrrrgggg.
George, the voltage regulator getting warm in and of itself is not unusual. It's mounted where it is (on the front of the bike) and with cooling fins on it for just such a reason. Still, the symptoms you're talking about and the deal with the headlight dimming makes me think the voltage regulator is the problem. If it was the stator I don't think you'd be getting good vaules at the battery like you are. I'm sure there are some values you could check going into/out of the regulator, but the service manual I have doesn't specify anything. I would also say, it's sorta rare for a regulator to fail, but you never know. Could also explain why it's working fine until it heats up. :nixweiss:
Maybe your local dealer or another shop has a known good one you could swap it out with to see what happens?
I cleared the fuel line from the carb to the tank. I couldn't get the fuel to flow from the tank to the carb so my bud will do that for me. The new symptoms are that after it starts and runs for a few mins. the just cuts off now and wont restart. I switch the petcock onto reserve and still nothing.
It's hard for me to imagine that the fuel system is so clogged as to keep any fuel at all from entering the carb. I guess it's possible, but from the decription about how the lights are behaving, it seems more like an electrical gremlin, at least to me. :nixweiss:
But I couldn't get the gas to flow from the tank to the carb. I know you have to release the vacuum thing but I don't know how to do it.
Although I saw some tape/paint on the fuel screen and when I wiped the inside the tank and possibly loosened the paint liner, I didn't see anymore after I removed the petcock the 2nd time.
Stator or voltage regulator?? :nixweiss:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
the electronic problem was the regulator, plain and simple.Score a big one for the dOOdmeister!
The other day I changer the engine oil, trans oil, air filter and spark plugs. Since then(and it may have nothing to do with the changes) I have had an intermitting problem. What happens is while riding, all of a sudden the bike cuts out. It's like your turning the key off and on. It also could be described like your running on one cylinder. BUT, just last night as it was getting dark I saw the instrument lights dimming and getting bright , back and forth. Also as the engine was puttering, I saw the tach jumping say from 2K to 5K to 3K back and forth. My Bud Hoist said to start new with a new battery as the one I have is probably 2-3 yrs. old-One possibility. My other bud, 103thunder(Brian) said maybe its the regulator. Thats a second possibility. My other buddy, who's an auto mechanic and has his own shop says it sounds like it could be the Primary Ignition Pick Up. He thinks it could be that but not absolutely sure. But because the tach jumps high and low without the engine reving any higher, it could be that. He also had another reason that I don't remember, lol--duh. I brought the bike to a shop to have the tire replaced and they checked all the wire connections and found nothing wrong. It seems to happen after riding for awhile. The repair guy said I should bring the bike back ane he'll ride if for 20 25 miles and see if it happens to him. I'm set to try the primary ign. p/u but would hate to spend $170.00 @HD if it's not the problem. Hoist, Maybe Jim in CA could give advise?? Does anyone else have any Ideas???
Thanks in Advance, George :nixweiss:
Lucky guess. :nixweiss: I'll be the first to admit wrenching isn't my game. Much better figuring out 'puter stuff.
Lets see,
A member ask a question as to what caused a problem on his bike.
dOOd answers with reply #1.
Member responds after discovering the cause of the problem.Score a big one for the dOOdmeister!
SBB
Note to self,
Consult with dOOd next time before paying $75 an hour for diagnostics.
Lets see,
A member ask a question as to what caused a problem on his bike.
dOOd answers with reply #1.
Member responds after discovering the cause of the problem.Score a big one for the dOOdmeister!
SBB
Note to self,
Consult with dOOd next time before paying $75 an hour for diagnostics.
:huepfenjump3: :2vrolijk_21: :bananarock: What do I win, George?!?!? :nixweiss: :huepfenlol2: ;DYou still got your butt in one piece isn't that enough? ;) ;D
Exsqeeze me?!?! The answer was in the original post?!?! :nixweiss: :huepfenlol2:
You still got your butt in one piece isn't that enough? ;) ;D
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Chithead!!!!! :ROFLOL:
Well chit, your right!
:oops:
New note to self,
Ask Brian first and send him $75.
If he's not sure, call dOOd and get advice from him.
Try to negotiate lower rate of $65 since I done spent $75 on Brian.
:2vrolijk_21:
:nixweiss: Somebody been in the chicken wine?!?! :nixweiss: :huepfenlol2: :oops:Nope, been awhile. :-\
Nope, been awhile. :-\
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Well after three weeks of agony the problem has been resolved and we are now waiting for "JOY" to arrive. Today I brought the bike to me friends garage and as I mentioned previously, he is a great mechanic(besides being a former Marine). He placed a scope and checked all the electronics. We also cleaned the carb, cleaned the jets where we found somemore tank lining, remover the bottom of the carb where the float is and cleaned everything. the electronic problem was the regulator, plain and simple. I didn't get the chrome replacement for ten dollars more because I would have had to wait a week before it came in to HD. But I now have a good running bike. I feel good.The chrome regulator costs $110.00. I asked HD what the cost of a new tank would be. So he looks it up and said it's $1,330.00 and it's obsolete. So when the season is over, The tank will be removed and he has a different method of removing the inside liner, then we will do the Kreem regiment to recoat the tank. He had his tank done using a commercial type lining but the person who did it is now out of business and he don't remember the product used. But he will try to find out the information and we have time before we do it so...... If anyone knows something better than Kreem please advise me. My bud said Kreem is pretty good but there are better products like that that was used on his tank. So "Thank You " for all the advise and I'm real happy that the bike is running real good. You Guys are the Best!!!
Best to all of you,
George :apple:
I tried to send you some.
All you had to do was say you didn't want any!
:huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:
Well, F. I checked on a tank before I got mine in February -- stil available. Now, 6 months later, SOL! >:( SOB, shoulda got one then, F! :o
I didn't bother to read every little bit of advice since I only just saw this, but when I read Hoist's suggestion of a battery first, it made me wonder how many dollars all the suggestions would add up to if the regulator was the last thing tried being the first thing suggested?
Just a wandering thought..............
Glad to hear the problem is resolved.
That's why Brian and dOOd deserve "ATTABOYS"!
:2vrolijk_21:
George...
:2vrolijk_21:
glad you have most of this figured out....it's great to have someone you trust to help out.....you received some great advice from everyone....KUDOS to all.....
Now go out and put 400-500 miles on the bike and make sure everything is fixed......
$1,330.00 for a friggen tank....with blue flames...and they are obsolete....what did HD only make 2 extra or what....
Actually, I think I would check into that story a bit more....I am not saying I am even close to being right about this....but I always thought if something happened to your "tins" they would actually require the one you had a "problem" with and require it to be returned and they would prepare a new one.....sort of a "swap" procedure.......I suppose this requires a call to Customer Service at HD.....I have no basis to justify my position other than the logic that these are CVO bikes and if something happens they would be in a position to repair....even if it took them six months to paint a new one in order to fit it into their schedule.....I do realize other parts go obsolete but I would never had thought that the painting of a tank would.....Jenni would be a good source for this answer....but who wants to bother her for a "generic" question when you aren't planning to buy anything.....
So does anyone have the "facts" on this matter.....or does everyone believe the communication Jorge received was accurate..... :nixweiss:
Howie, you better wrap that tank when you start puttin them MONKEY APES on Joy...... :bananarock:
I am glad George is peeking around the corner.....and sees a clear road ahead....... :2vrolijk_21:
Regards,
Tim