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[grc]

Oh, and btw, rather than throw away a perfectly good battery why not perform a simple load test?  That is the definitive way to tell if the battery is good, marginal, or in need of life support.

Jerry

[RedFXR2]

BTW, always use the ones from H-D.  The MoCo would never sell you something of inferior quality.

I do always use HD batteries.  And I think you just hit on why I replace them well before I should have to.


I did have a MC battery fail prematurely once, and it was not a HD battery.  Drag Specialties equivalent.  And luckily I was home and the only consequence was disappointment.  But that battery did sit on a battery tender whenever the bike wasn't in use and was only a little over a year old.  BT light glowing green right up until the time I hit the starter button and got the dreaded barely-turning-over sound.  Anyway, between that incident (that made me think...what if I was out there somewhere) and some really inconvenient car battery failures, I decided some years ago that I would replace them (car and bike)  prematurely instead of risk a failure at a bad time.  And no, I don't replace car batteries every two years.  More like 4 for them.

[gflvette2]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS. YOU ALL ARE THE BEST. I even got a few laughs reading all these replies.  Believe me, I respect and value all the info you guys have given me. Tomorrow I'm going to change the exchange the battery from my Ultra and see if it still happens. If it does, the next thing is to do what Mike said. I'll drain the fuel, remove the petcock and look at the screen. I think all of these ideas are good and valid. So I'll go one step at a time until it is resolved. I hope that tomorrow I can say" HEY IT'S ALL GOOD NOW", LOL. Thanks Again men!   

[gflvette2]

n

[gflvette2]

Well Here's the update again. I say again because I already wrote this and I guess it's lost somewhere. OK Here we go again. I removed the petcock and found some hair like fibers and something like a strip of paint/tape??? I then cleaned the opening of the tank and reached in as far as possible. When I looked in I saw a more of the same stuff--like tape stuff, gray in color. I replaced the petcock, filled tank with some gas and it started up. I thought the problem was solved. But, after a few minutes it started again. This time instead of the lights getting dim and bright, they were now turning off, for say 3-4 seconds then back on. So I checked the coil with a screwdriver against some metal and saw a yellowish spark. I was expecting more of a blueish but.... So maybe its the coil not putting out enough spark. I also took out the new plugs and they were fouled, very fouled but not wet. I put the old ones back in and tried to start it again. After several attempts, it finally started. It ran for a few minutes and it turned off. I thought maybe the tank /screen is blocked again. So again I removed the petcock and the screen was clean. I just hope that its working right now. I hope I didn't screw it up. So I tried to start it again after adding more gas. This time it didn't start. I put the trickle charger on a few times during this process to keep the battery alive. so now at 8:07pm it's in the shed charging.  I think it might be the coil.  Anyone else have any suggestions?       Thanks, George

[110tHunDer]

 
George, are you still getting spark?  If so, it's probably not the coil.  Seems like you're going to have to start trying things until you hit on what the problem is.  Did you take it back to the mechanic that changed the fluids and plugs for ya?  Still seems pretty strange that these problems didn't show up until after it was wrenched on.  If you're not comfortable trouble-shooting it yourself, you're probably better off taking it to someone who is.

[RedFXR2]

I removed the petcock and found some hair like fibers and something like a strip of paint/tape??? I then cleaned the opening of the tank and reached in as far as possible. When I looked in I saw a more of the same stuff--like tape stuff, gray in color. .... thought maybe the tank /screen is blocked again. So again I removed the petcock and the screen was clean.

That grey stuff is probably the inner tank sealant peeling off.  I don't know why this happens, but it seems to occur sometimes.  Luckily for me, mine wasn't peeling last time I checked (when I took the petcock off last Fall as described earlier).  Anyway, if it's deteriorating, the loose pieces will continue to slough off from time to time and will likely cause fuel flow problems.  Did you clean the inside of the petcock and blow out the fuel line to the carb?  This stuff can get in there, as well.  Have you looked in the tank from the filler cap to see if you can see any flakes in the gas or loose pieces hanging off the tank?  I know you can't see much from the outside, but I'm afraid that's what's going on.

Youi may have to re-seal the inner tank.  There's a product called Kreem that does this but I've never done the job so don't know any details.  Maybe somebody else has done this and can give you the step-by-step process.  Unless, of course you discover something else that is in fact causing your troubles.

[RedFXR2]

I removed the petcock and found some hair like fibers and something like a strip of paint/tape??? I then cleaned the opening of the tank and reached in as far as possible. When I looked in I saw a more of the same stuff--like tape stuff, gray in color.

Taking a step back from my previous post.  George, when you looked into the tank and saw the grey stuff, was it in place on the inner walls of the tank, or did you actually see some peeling/flaking/loose pieces in there?  The inner tank will be grey in color--that's normal--but it should be in place on the walls of the tank, not loose in with the gas.

Even if it's still in place, when you cleaned the filter screen did you also clean the petcock and fuel line?  If you find anything on the screen, and apparently you did, then your really should continue with cleaning the fuel route and clean the petcock and fuel line while you're at it.

[gflvette2]

Yes Mike, I peeled it off the inside of the tank. Also there was some on the screen. I'll do the fuel line next. Thanks, Groege

[RedFXR2]

Yes Mike, I peeled it off the inside of the tank. Also there was some on the screen.

Unfortunately, you're probably looking at re-applying the gas tank liner sometime soon.  Exactly what happens if you don't, besides periodically having fuel flow troubles, I don't know.  I wouldn't do the re-seal until somebody that has had some experience here speaks up.  But here are the instructions for Kreem to give you an idea of what to expect.  Be careful with the paint.


How to use KREEM Gas Tank Sealer Kit to seal your gas tank

**This procedure is best done outside.

**Remove any petcock, cap and crossover hoses there may be and seal all openings except the fuel inlet.

**DO NOT get any Tank Prep A (diluted or undiluted) on the painted surface of the tank as it will damage the paint!

How Much Do I Need?
For small tanks (1-5 gallon) use 1 pint bottle of Fuel Tank Liner.
For larger tanks use 1 quart of Fuel Tank Liner per 20 gallons of tank capacity.
Thin Fuel Tank Liner with Methyl Ethyl Ketone to brush or spray on.


#1 - Clean and etch the inside of the tank:
The inside of the tank should be completely free and clear of all loose particulates and corrosion.  Even more importantly, it must be totally devoid of any and all oily substances, including any and all traces of gasoline, oil and grease.


Begin Here If Using An Old Or Used Tank - An old or previously used tank may need some extra prep work to get ready for the KREEM treatment.  If your tank is really greasy or very rusty begin with this extra step. If you have a unrusted new tank or lod tank in really good condition skip ahead to the application of the Tank Prep A.

Pour about a pint of liquid degreaser full strength into the tank and slosh vigorously with all the openings capped off.  Do this for several minutes, and don't forget to invert the tank and get all of the surfaces degreased up around the fuel inlet, as well as the very top of the inside of the tank.

If the inside of the tank is really rusty or has particles stuck to the inside surfaces add several loose nuts and bolts to the degreaser to help break loose the surface contaminates.  You may also use a couple 8" lengths of medium size linked chain or anything that will rub against the inner surface and can easily be removed.

Next, add about 1/2 gallon of the hottest water you can get to the degreaser still in the tank and slosh it around again for a few minutes.  After you are quite certain that you've degreased all surfaces pour out the entire mixture and remove anything you inserted to help scour the inside surface (nuts, bolts, chain, etc.).

Now pour about a tablespoon of hand dishwashing liquid and about a gallon of very hot water into the tank and slosh thoroughly.  Follow with as many cold water rinses as necessary to remove all trace of the dishwashing soap.

Now you are ready to use the Tank Prep A (Wash/Cleaner) that came with your KREEM Tank Prep Kit.  This will completely clean and etch the inside surface of the tank.


Begin Here If Using A New Tank - You may begin here with a new tank or begin at the extra cleaning steps listed above if you feel your tank can benefit from the more rigorous cleaning required with old or previously used tanks.

Pour 2 to 2 1/2 gallons (depending on your tank volume) of the hottest water you can get into the tank and add Tank Prep A.  Slosh the mixture around for several minutes being sure to get all inner surfaces etched including the inside top and fuel fill area.  Sit the tank down for several minutes (10 - 15) between sloshings to let the Tank Prep A solution work.  Prop the tank in different positions so the solution contacts all inner surfaces.  Leave a small opening in the fuel filler plug to allow gas that is produced during the etching process to escape.

Carefully pour out the Tank Prep A solution into a container for storage so you may use it in the future.  Flush the tank with cool water.  Inspect the inside of the tank to be sure all rust has been removed and the inner surfaces are etched.  Reapply the Tank Prep A solution if needed.  Flush the tank with cool water until the rinse water no longer foams and all trace of Tank Prep A is eliminated.


#2 - Remove all water from the inside of the tank:
Perform this step in a WELL VENTELATED area.  Immediately pour Tank Prep B (Conditioner) into the tank full strength and slosh it around so it contacts all inside surfaces.  Pour the Tank Prep B out and immediately coat the inside of the tank with Fuel Tank Liner.


#3 - Coating:
Pour entire bottle of Fuel Tank Liner into the tank.  Coat the interior surface by slowly rotating the tank in all directions.  When all interior surfaces have been coated a large excess should remain.  Let the tank stand for 10 minutes with the fuel inlet open.  Seal the fuel inlet and rotate the tank again to recoat all inner surfaces.  Let the tank stand on a different side for 10 minutes with the fuel inlet open.  Repeat this process until the tank has the desired coating.  Do not let the excess Fuel Tank Liner pool and dry.  Drain off excess Fuel Tank Liner for later use.


#4 - Drying/curing time:
Unseal all tank openings.  Allow the coating to air-dry for at least 24 hours in a well-ventilated area.  If possible extend the drying time to 96 hours (4 days).  A nozzle of a low pressure air compressor blowing into the fuel inlet and out another hole can shorten the drying/curing time.

[RedFXR2]

Another product for tank sealing is POR15.  Some say it works better than Kreem.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=HDCTRK&dept=12

I'd really be interested in hearing anyinput from anyone who has used either of these.

[Hoist!]

Another product for tank sealing is POR15.  Some say it works better than Kreem.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=HDCTRK&dept=12

I'd really be interested in hearing anyinput from anyone who has used either of these.

Vern tried Kreem in his shop a few years back and wasn't happy with the results.

I never heard of Por 15, but that link reads nicely! Those folks appear to specialize in that type of product. Might have some merit.

Hoist!

[Slowride262]

You got a wire grounding out somewhere simple as that.
I had the same thing happen on my 96 RK and it turned out to be the wire that went to the front marker light had
worn through INSIDE the fender.

[sadunbar]

I have used Kreem in the past with good results.  The key is in following the instructions exactly.  It sounds like this is needed due to what you found in your tank, but I suspect your root problem is electrical.  good luck with the troubleshooting....

[gflvette2]

Thanks sadunbar, I just bought a coil after doing an Ohm test on the origional one that came up bad. So after buying one at HD, I went to my friends garage and he tested the origional coil and is tested good. Needless to say, HD won't take back the new one. It's still wrapped in the box.  Thanks,George