Topic: 1000 miles (Read 2739 times)

BLM777 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 07, 2004, 06:04:24 AM »

If you're thinking of changing the exhaust, you really need to do so before heading for the dyno with the race tuner as the pipes will make an incredible change in the tuning. As for the type of exhaust......everyone has there own opinion, but the Rhineharts on my SEEG are the 11th set I've used over the years. Most dyno techs are very familiar with tuning to them and I feel that the quality is far superior to the other options available. I find the sound to be the best on the big bore stroker engines and seem to have become addicted to the rumble. The amount of noise (that might be objectionable to a passenger) is directly influended by the spasms in your right hand. [smiley=laugh.gif]

mr_magoo · « **Reply #2 on:** November 07, 2004, 08:57:31 AM »

For a little more grunt down low you can change the primary gearing. these bike are overdrive from the factory and that would help a little.

DW6019 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 07, 2004, 05:01:01 PM »

I also intend to install the V & H true dual fronts and use my S/E Pro Mufflers. The Rineharts are TOO loud and so are the new Caliber duals. I, unlike you, did not wait thousand miles (or even 50 miles) before running the bike out. It has terrific high speed roll on for a dresser that has only gotten better with the S/E mufflers, Air Filter and download. I have a local shop that now has manpower for Quality Race Tuner or Power Commander setup (CycleRama in Pinellas Park) so now I am going with Power Commander and the V & H duals. I don't understand at all the long breakin period most of the people on this site seem to use. I picked mine up at the dealer with the trailer. Went to the country, unloaded and warmed it up, gradual to 30 mph,in third gear, then wide open to 80, then down to 30 back to 80 three times, Broken in as far as I am concerned. Same way we did race motors, predyno days and they Always sealed to around 3% leakage. Just my opinion, extended breakin is a old wives tale. By the way, this is not the first, bike, car etc. I have owned. NEVER had a motor problem either. I buy them to ride, not baby.

BLM777 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 07, 2004, 05:37:52 PM »

I think you'll see your warranty "heading south" at a high velocity when you install the Power Commander. They're a good unit, but I only use them on out of warranty scoots. If you have a good relationship with your shop guys, I've never had a problem with using the HD Race Tuner and maintaining the warranty.

DW6019 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 07, 2004, 07:52:25 PM »

I think you are wrong, no I know you are, on the warranty issue. All the local dealers install them, Lakeland HD advertises it on T.V.. The only reason the warranty would ever be affected by a P/C is if the P/C caused the problem. Warranty's are coverd by federal law in our great country, not a local harley dealer. Read the Magnusson/Moss Warranty Act sometime (spelling??). AND with a P/C you just unplug it, remove it and no one EVER knows it was there, UNLIKE a Race Tuner which burns the OE ECM. But on a more realistic note, the ECM failed on my last Road King, the dealer replaced it under extended warranty and put the bike on the DYNO and checked the P/C map to make sure the Factory ECM failing had not affected my P/C. So judging by that I see no problems in the future.

kbiforce · « **Reply #6 on:** November 07, 2004, 08:08:58 PM »

I read in a magazine that the break in period is more for the rider than the machine. I agree with the rule of ride it like you would normally.My brother in law and I installed a 95" kit and cams in his Heritage. He warmed it up, took it for a road test of 5 miles, and then we raced. Runs like a dream and no problems.

DW6019 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 07, 2004, 08:21:52 PM »

KBiForce glad to see someone that is not afraid to do it correctly. Most of the folks on this site are old women, or sound like it.

MAS · « **Reply #8 on:** November 07, 2004, 08:28:48 PM »

DW6019,

I am curious to see what you think of the Dresser Duals when they are installed such as if they change the sound of the mufflers. I suspect the fit and quality will be there as V&H puts out a good product. Also, am interested in your dyno numbers along with everybody else, as our set ups will be similar except for PC versus race tuner.
I ran the PC for a short time(performed well) but I did not like how I had to cram the wire harness under the side cover. Being in California we a have a smog canister under the battery tray where the wire harness should go. So, short of removing the back wheel, taking out the canister and dealing with the check engine light coming on the quick fix was to zip tie the heck out of the harness and cram the side cover back on. That truly is the main reason I switched to the race tuner. As far as the warranty issue I am sure a dealer could find any number of reasons to not honor my warranty, but I paid for the service, ride the bike with care, and really doubt that the race tuner or PC will cause any damage to the drive train. If so, I will deal with them at that time. So I agree with you (I think) run what you want or what the best tuner in your area likes an don't worry about the warranty.
I enjoy all the different opinions of motor break in. In this instance I basically followed HD's plan but did run it up the rpms in short bursts a few times to help the rings seat and varied the rpms a lot. The main reason I did not get up into the higher speeds was that I was getting used to the bike, its size and handleing characteristics. We have these rain grooves in our freeway system that really gives the bike a wobble. Very unnerving until you get used to it. After reading some posts about the high speed wobble I was extra careful to check the situation out.

DW6019 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 07, 2004, 09:11:58 PM »

I do not have the cannistor problem you have, Seems that would suck!. The dealer I bought the bike from still installs more Power Commander USB's than race tuners. Price is not a big deal, $309 for P/C and $367 for Race Tuner. I do like being able to remove the P/C without a trace if need be, I tend to keep stuff off my bikes when I sell them. Locally we have more tuners familar with the P/C but that will probably change over time. The P/C had a large headstart on the Race Tuner. I just have used the P/C with no problem and will stick with it. I will post the Dyno sheets, holidays and work will probably make this all happen in Jan.

mr_magoo · « **Reply #10 on:** November 08, 2004, 08:29:27 AM »

The only negetive I've found with the power commander is you cann't change the rev limiter like you can with the race tuner. But with the race tuner it is tied to the bike and cann't be taken and used on another bike(burns the serial # to the race tuner) like you can with a power commander.

PCC · « **Reply #11 on:** November 08, 2004, 01:57:58 PM »

I've seen a lot of opinions back and forth about the PC vs. Race Tuner and which is "Better". It's an intersting debate. Break in procedures crack me up also! The "Old Lady"
remark was a good one [smiley=6.gif]
Maybe some of you guys who have experience with the Race tuner can tell me diffrerently, but, to my knowledge here's the advantage that the PC has over the Race Tuner.

Dynojet supplies their tuning centers with Fuel Injection Tuning Software that actually controls the Dyno as the bike is running through an RPM range. Dynojet dyno's are inertial, meaning the bike is tuned "under Load". The computer calculates the optimum fuel curve at 250 or 500 rpm intervals. With the Race tuner the same tuning can be performed, but the facility must have an inertial dyno and air/fuel setup and even then all of this must be done manually. In other words the dynojet is faster and IMO most tuners are under time constraints and you may not get a guy to spend the hours need to properly adjust the ECM. I admit that the Race Tuner is more flexible with regard to rev limit settings but I think running these bikes past 5800 is a waste anyway. They lose torque way before that.

I think the Race Tuner has a lot of potential. But it's harder to use and harder to measure results, unless you have access to a lot of dyno time.

MAS · « **Reply #12 on:** November 08, 2004, 07:03:21 PM »

Here is an idea, at the next rally we will have drag races pitting PCs against Race tuners. Then, when we fry our engines we will see which systems HD will warranty!! [smiley=laugh.gif]

DW6019 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 08, 2004, 07:25:58 PM »

MAS,
Kind of a stupid remark regarding something that is a owner preference....

MAS · « **Reply #14 on:** November 08, 2004, 07:47:03 PM »

Quote

KBiForce glad to see someone that is not afraid to do it correctly. Most of the folks on this site are old women, or sound like it.

DW6019,

My comment was made in jest and I thought it was pretty funny poking fun at our different opinions, I did not mean to offend anyone. Should I consider your "old women" comment "stupid" seeing that breaking in a motor is based on owner preference as well?

Jock · « **Reply #15 on:** November 08, 2004, 08:37:44 PM »

One of the major keys here is everyone's bike is different unless it is TOTALLY stock, then MAYBE the same...without knowing ALL the details, performance will vary based upon conditions...Good Luck to ALL.

ak · « **Reply #16 on:** November 08, 2004, 10:44:33 PM »

Quote

I also intend to install the V & H true dual fronts and use my S/E Pro Mufflers. The Rineharts are TOO loud and so are the new Caliber duals. I, unlike you, did not wait

mr_magoo · « **Reply #17 on:** November 09, 2004, 08:22:37 AM »

Sounds like you where trying to seat the rings, did the same thing breaking mine in. First 30 miles all hard accel through the gears then hard decel down through the gears and its broke in.

BLM777 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 11, 2004, 11:19:29 AM »

Quote

I think you are wrong, no I know you are, on the warranty issue. All the local dealers install them, Lakeland HD advertises it on T.V.. The only reason the warranty would ever be affected by a P/C is if the P/C caused the problem.

h82lose · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2005, 08:13:34 PM »

has any one changed from synthetic oil to petroleum based oil in all 3 holes after 1000 mile break-in and if so how where results? [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=oops.gif]

Elvis · « **Reply #20 on:** March 08, 2005, 10:34:35 PM »

Used a Power Commander for years on my Road King with no problems. Currently have the Race Tuner on my 103 SEEG. I like the fact that it doesn't rely on 'fooling' the ECM to work (seems inherently a bad idea) and it's greater potential to fine tune as in every 100 rpm vs the PC's every 500 rpm. That said, a closed loop system from HD would be ideal and eliminate the need for either....

elvis

Author Topic: 1000 miles (Read 2739 times)