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[walstibsf]

One thing I found out by experimenting with the different Dremel grinding wheels and rotary files:  if used very carefully and lightly, the tiny cutoff abrasive wheels will do the trick in 5-10 minutes whilst using the edge of them like a grinder.  I had to cut off the 'stingers' on the old stock baffles(can you say sawzall?) to get clearance at angles to allow the cutoff wheel to move around enough.  Just be very careful not to undercut the muffler body, as these wheels cut very quickly.

Another thing I did was to drill two holes in the top of my work bench that have the same spacing as the muffler mounts.  Then run bolts from underneath to hold the mufflers while I worked.  (towel, pad, or rag under front of muffs to prevent scratches).  I suppose I could've built a jig like this to go in a vise, also.  I found this very secure to prevent damage to the muff bodies and provide a stable working mount. 

Be sure and wear your safety glasses and remember you've got sparks and tender.

Good luck....YMMV


Hope this helps.....

[Borntodubb]

Hi,

Nice detailed instructions, thanks.  Do you have any pictures of the stock baffles?

Borntodubb

[dartman]

Here

[Borntodubb]

Thank you,

I can see just how much better the Fullsac  baffles will work!!

Borntodubb

[MC88]

Great information here guys .

I read through all 20 pages and took the plunge , used dremmel grinding wheels and only took about half an hour per side.

Now im deciding which size baffles to go with most likely go for quiet and medium as I am looking for a deep rumble and not too loud.

So for those wondering I cranked it up and had a listen with and without the packing inside.

With the packing it sonds nice and deep and loud ,  only problem is the packing started to fly out as no baffle to keep in in place.

Without the packing it sounds a lot louder and has an echo to it, sound is ver similar to my springer with Rinehart crossbacks on it , set of car alarms in my car park... my opinion is a bit too loud .

So time to order the fullsac bafffles and try them out .

[MC88]

I got my 2 inch baffles this week and at the same time the dealer rang and said he had my  Hi outputs  as well,

First the V&H went on , nice deep rumble  resonably loud and sets off car alarms in my car park.

Second on was the fullsacs , BTW im also running the V&H power duals and the sound is great at idle and  a nice mellow tone through the rev range. No alarms set off in the car park.

So it looks like they will stay on for now , i really like the stock ends of the pipes with the black tips ,.

So its another    :2vrolijk_21:for Steve.

[John_HD]

I'd like to share my experiences as I did this yesterday to 2011 Street Glide CVO pipes. Total job took about 2 hours but could have been much less.

• I already had a used cutoff wheel on my dremel. It fit without hitting the center pipe.
• The 2011 center pipe is much much shorter than the picture. I didn't need to prop up the pipe to hammer out the baffle.
• Its not that easy to damage the pipe with the dremel, Most of my problems getting through the welds was because I was being too careful.
• I used a LARGE socket on the end of a shaft to hammer out my baffles.
• Don't worry too much if your hole isn't EXACTLY 1 3/8". There is some wiggle room. But get it as close as you can.
• The 2011 pipes don't have the packing glued in. The packing is all one piece which is easy to remove.
• You COULD do this operation, take out the packing, then drill a hole in the Pipe and the OEM Baffle and remount To get more sound for FREE. Without the packing, the airflow is going to be greatly increased. If you make your hole at 1 3/8" you can one day try the FullSac. The Design of the OEM pipe only forces the air through the packing. If there is no packing, the airflow will be completely unrestricted.
• The pictures don't show what part to hit with the dowel. Anyways, there is a lip about 2 inches in the pipe. Don't hit that one. The part the dowel hits is much farther in.
• I recommend hitting the OEM baffle in the pipe to see if you got through the welds. Knocking in first should show you a clear separation.
• After you knock in the OEM baffle some, you can clean up a little of the weld on the pipe the dremel bit couldn't reach. It will come out much easier then.

Good luck. This wasn't hard and it wasn't easy to screw up either. I had minimal tools, and I got it done.

[rayz1951]

Great installation directions.  I have Bub 7 trueduals on my 08 but they seem to be annoyning lately, or I'm getting older, but I still like the looks of the OEM mufflers.  Which fullsac baffle is quiet but still louder than stock.

Ray Z

[LarryB]

the 2" works well for that

[stevegoetsch]

Excellent step by step, thanks for your time showing us how to do do this, but I have one question that the old school in me wants to ask. What would it be like if after the baffle was removed a person just put the end cap back on and called it good. I wonder how noise and performance would be changed, it would be a cheap way to make your pipes sound better then stock and obtain more power...I think!

[HOGMIKE]

Excellent step by step, thanks for your time showing us how to do do this, but I have one question that the old school in me wants to ask. What would it be like if after the baffle was removed a person just put the end cap back on and called it good. I wonder how noise and performance would be changed, it would be a cheap way to make your pipes sound better then stock and obtain more power...I think!

Only way to know if YOU like it is to try it.
I'm betting you will not like it.
 

[LarryB]

Excellent step by step, thanks for your time showing us how to do do this, but I have one question that the old school in me wants to ask. What would it be like if after the baffle was removed a person just put the end cap back on and called it good. I wonder how noise and performance would be changed, it would be a cheap way to make your pipes sound better then stock and obtain more power...I think!

you will probably loose some low end torque, with no baffles there's not enough back pressure with just the plate

[Z10]

Got the welds ground down and broken. Can move the baffle forward. Smoothed the pipe ID assuring no ridges that would prevent the baffle from going past the grounded down welds. Baffle still is getting hung up somwhere when trying to knock it out. These are 06 pipes and as you can see by the pic the CAT is in the muffler. You'll also notice that this is where I've been putting the doll rod. Question...Note the edge the arrow is point at. Is that part of the baffle too? I don't think it it because I don't see marks where it has moved only forward. Going back out in the garage this morning to play with it. Last night before I called it a day I hit it with some penetrating fluid.

[HOGMIKE]

Got the welds ground down and broken. Can move the baffle forward. Smoothed the pipe ID assuring no ridges that would prevent the baffle from going past the grounded down welds. Baffle still is getting hung up somwhere when trying to knock it out. These are 06 pipes and as you can see by the pic the CAT is in the muffler. You'll also notice that this is where I've been putting the doll rod. Question...Note the edge the arrow is point at. Is that part of the baffle too? I don't think it it because I don't see marks where it has moved only forward. Going back out in the garage this morning to play with it. Last night before I called it a day I hit it with some penetrating fluid.

That lip is part of the pipe and stays. Just use a big piece of pipe about 2 ft long on the cat, turn the muffler over, use it like a "slide hammer" on the floor, give it a good whack, and it will pop out. Assuming you have your welds ground down where they separate from the flange.
Used this on quite a few mufflers, and works fine. Then you can dress up the remaining weld marks inside the housing, and slide the new cores right in.
Good luck.

[Z10]

   Thx HogMike...Top portion of the floor jack handle did the trick. Both pipes are ready for new baffles. Will order the 2" baffles this weekend.