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[ltank]

Stiffer shocks reduce Death Wobble from my experience but it increases rear tire wear? I can't get good mileage out of any rear tire. I check air pressure every week. Tire bounce on a driven wheel makes lose of traction and the tire is constantly slipping as going forward. Do I reduce spring tension and decrease rebound?
  I narrowed tire choice to three tires. American Elite,
ME888 Ultra or Comander 3.
130mm 16" tire. 98 RK. Thanks

[k9f]

Just make sure your Metzeler choice is not made in Brazil. There have been several issues experienced with them. European made ones are fine and the ones I use. 

[Tail Rider]

Everything has a bit of a give and take, but shocks with a firmer attitude are designed to keep the tire in contact with the road, but again too firm, like riding a "rigid", the tire becomes your suspension. I think maybe a bit less rebound may ease on your firmness. Too little air pressure in the tire causes cupping, too much adds to the bouncing. With your better shocks, has your confidence gotten better to the point of pushing the ol' gal a bit harder? And one more point to ponder...engine braking, always harder on a tire, but saves on your brakes.

[grc]

Everything has a bit of a give and take, but shocks with a firmer attitude are designed to keep the tire in contact with the road, but again too firm, like riding a "rigid", the tire becomes your suspension. I think maybe a bit less rebound may ease on your firmness. Too little air pressure in the tire causes cupping, too much adds to the bouncing. With your better shocks, has your confidence gotten better to the point of pushing the ol' gal a bit harder? And one more point to ponder...engine braking, always harder on a tire, but saves on your brakes.

Brake pads are a lot cheaper than engine parts.  Just saying.

Jerry

[Tail Rider]

Absolutely...I just added a note of sarcasm. I should have put a question mark behind it!

[FLSTFI Dave]

Brake pads are a lot cheaper than engine parts.  Just saying.

Jerry

I have never had an engine part fail due to engine braking on any of my Harleys.  I'm a high milage rider, average 24K miles a year.  The new in 2013 slipper clutch does help with this.

[grc]

I have never had an engine part fail due to engine braking on any of my Harleys.  I'm a high milage rider, average 24K miles a year.  The new in 2013 slipper clutch does help with this.

It depends on how hard you ride I suppose Dave.  If you bang some hard downshifts and over-rev the engine, which I've seen some people do over the years, you can do a lot of damage when valves contact other parts.  Even if you don't abuse the engine that much, constant hard engine braking will cause more wear over time than just using the brakes.  It's a matter of degree, normal engine braking no problem, constant hard engine braking will cause more wear and tear of parts.  That's all I meant in my first post.

Jerry

[ltank]

I drive Conservatively most of the time, never a wheelie or burnout on this Road King. I let off the throttle to assist slowing down along with using both brakes. I don't downshift to make motor rev in the lower gear. I do have some extra weight on bike with some tools, spare gallon of gas, 18 lb chain/lock combo. I grew up in N.O. and grew up on Shovelheads so I carry a 20 lb tool bag. Weight is distributed evenly on left right saddlebags.
I have reset the rebound two clicks softer. Will ride next week when the stormy weather stops.
Thanks Guys

[FLSTFI Dave]

It depends on how hard you ride I suppose Dave.  If you bang some hard downshifts and over-rev the engine, which I've seen some people do over the years, you can do a lot of damage when valves contact other parts.  Even if you don't abuse the engine that much, constant hard engine braking will cause more wear over time than just using the brakes.  It's a matter of degree, normal engine braking no problem, constant hard engine braking will cause more wear and tear of parts.  That's all I meant in my first post.

Jerry

I do not beat on or abuse my bikes.  I may push them a little but never over rev.  I do not due burn outs.  Ride 90% of the time between 2000 and 3500 RPM.  A down shift rarely brings it over 3000 rpm.  I do like to be right around 3000 rpm entering hard curves or corners for plenty of power.  I also am rarely very hard on my bike going up the gears.  On rare occasion I will race some one, but no wot shifts or clutches shifts.  I have enough power to destroy 3rd gear, or a belt.