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CVO Technical => Trailers / toyhaulers => Topic started by: dayne66 on September 09, 2017, 02:45:18 PM
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Been thinking of getting a trailer ....but....don't want to go to the expense of color matching the paint as I think I'll be getting a new bike in 2020. So......maybe find one and not be concerned about the color and get it wrapped to match my 2012 Ruby/Maroon FLHXSE3. I guess I should check into the price of wrapping.
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Find a collision repair center that mixes/uses PPG and they can match about any Harley color you want to paint it. I strongly suggest you do base/clear. The UV in modern single stages do not come close to Base/Clear. You also use less actual color and build protection and depth with the clear.
Also after having a couple of wrapped company cars, the stuff is not a long term deal. Both of mine were used approx 2 years and showed heavy wear any where you touched it with any regularity. Also had a lady drag a Coach Purse down the side of the second one and it cut it like a knife, then water and dirt got in the cut, had to replace all the wrap in that area to a brake point (end of doors and complete fenders), tree branches are also not your friend.
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I agree. Had our 53' FEATHERLITE Hauler wrapped in '06, in 2 years, looked like chit. I think that was $10K in Mooresville, by "experts". I got a quote from a place in Charleston, WV, couple of months ago, to get my '02, 12' V-Nose FEATHERLITE wrapped. It's a Black, 1625, smooth side, no rivets, either. Still looks pretty good, and pulls like there ain't nothin' back there, but they wanted $3500.00! My Body-Man said he could sand it down with some kind of sand paper that feels more like tissue paper than sand paper, but it's got a very little fine feeling of grit, for lack of a better word, as a Body-Man I ain't. Then he said he would clear coat it, and it would look like new. Said he'd do in his shop at home for $12-1500, and then offered to do it for nothing 'cause he's worked for me for 20 years. I think that's the route i'm gonna' go, but I'm gonna' pay him. It's still a good Trailer, and one of the old-style FEATHERLITES. Not that junk Forrest-River makes now, and puts a FEATHERLITE name on it. Later--HUBBARD
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If I confused pull behind M/C Trailers with Bumper-Pull M/C Trailers behind our P/U's and SUV's, I beg your pardon. Sometimes my attention span gets distracted. I have no experience, or interest in pull-behind Bush-Techs, or any type of trailer hooked to a MC. Later--HUBBARD
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We had a commercial rig that was in a couple weeks ago that was rapped with decal top to bottom, about a half way up a quart of water.
Water got in from a tiny slit in the area just below the roof.
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Considering this trailer.....flat and easy to wrap. It will be parked 95% of the time ..covered and in the shade so a wrap should last a few years until I either paint it or upgrade to a Bushtec when i purchase the retirement bike.....or just leave it black.
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Considering this trailer.....flat and easy to wrap. It will be parked 95% of the time ..covered and in the shade so a wrap should last a few years until I either paint it or upgrade to a Bushtec when i purchase the retirement bike.....or just leave it black.
Be real interested to see what your decision is. I have a very similar trailer and have been thinking of trying the wrap approach too.
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Which is harder and more expensive to repair, a wrap job or a paint job? I'm guessing the wrap job that gets a few rock chips will eventually start to peel at the chip areas, and then water and other foreign material will enter and further loosen the wrap. Cutting out a section and piecing in a replacement doesn't sound like a great repair technique, so I'm guessing you'd have to strip it off and redo the whole thing. On the other hand, any decent painter can do a spot repair and blend it so it's basically like new.
I'd go with the less expensive and easier to repair paint job.
JMHO - Jerry
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I would only be wrapping the sides and the back ...so...I'd hope rock chips and such would be minimal.