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Custom Vehicle Discussions => CVO™ Road Glide Custom® => Topic started by: Gandrtravis on March 24, 2019, 05:16:28 PM
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Working on installing 14” apes on my rg wondering if I should cut the tab off the risers that’s in the way or get new risers and advice would help me. Also they sold me new bushings for the riser is that necissary to install or will the stock ones do ?
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What bars are you installing? If you are installing Fatory 45 you will not need to remove the pin. If you need to remove the pin use some vis-grips and pull it out, no need to cut it. I did not replace the bushing in mine with no issues. I did replace the top clamp with a Yaffe clamp. I installed the Factory 45 12”, first bar install I have done and it took about 3hrs and 10 minutes start to finish.
Good luck...
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They are pretty much replicas if factory 47 they are called precision mv made in Canada. But thanks I’ll pull the pin out and since I have to poly bushings I’ll try to figure out how to install them. I bought the wire extensions because the Harley dealer said I would need them but I don’t think I will need them they are 14”
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Use the poly bushings. Once you get the original bushings out you will see why you need them.
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They are pretty much replicas if factory 47 they are called precision mv made in Canada. But thanks I’ll pull the pin out and since I have to poly bushings I’ll try to figure out how to install them. I bought the wire extensions because the Harley dealer said I would need them but I don’t think I will need them they are 14”
There's some good Youtube videos showing how to go about not using the extensions for 14" bars. If they're not real long, I'd use them just to save a little headache. I think Factory 47 has one and I know KST has one.
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I needed wire extensions on the 14" Yaffe bars.
Also, get a good clamp. I have run 14" bars on 6 bikes now. With out something like a supper clamp, or another that has deep knurled or pins, the bars will move. On the stock clamp, I had parked in dirt, trying to pull bike back out, bars moved a good five inches. Easier to do it right the first time.
Use the urethane bushing.
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Thanks for the advice got them installed and pounded the pin out. Also changed the bushings to poly was not that bad of job but unfortuanetly now I have a check engine light on. Went for a ride everything seems to function properly so I might have to bring it in to see what the codes are.
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Might try to loosen the hand controls and check the wires their but not sure what else it could be. I have to go In for the clutch recall so might get them to check it out but don’t want them to charge me for a arm and a dam leg to try and figure out wtf.
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They look better with my short sheild but will end up using my tall one most the time.
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Looks great. Good luck with the codes.
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Great lookin bars!
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Great lookin bars!
Thanks they are called precision mc made in Canada so they are a bit cheaper than factory 47 with all the shipping and cross border fees. Seem like pretty good quality I’d say they are a good option for Canadians to save a bit of money we get screwed on pricing for parts up here with our chitty dollar.
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Thanks they are called precision mc made in Canada so they are a bit cheaper than factory 47 with all the shipping and cross border fees. Seem like pretty good quality I’d say they are a good option for Canadians to save a bit of money we get screwed on pricing for parts up here with our chitty dollar.
Don't suppose you have link for them? Can't seem to find anything!
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It is easy to check the codes yourself. Just hold the trip switch while turning on the ignition. It will go into diagnostic mode in the odometer window. Cycle through with trip switch. When it says ecm y or other module name hold for 5 secs and it will show codes. Once you have viewed and recorded all codes hold trip switch on previously viewed codes and it will clear them. You will need to do this for each module that shows a code. Internet search will bring up a list of codes and possibly a more clear explanation of process as I am going from memory. If you did not disconnect battery or connected battery before all switch connections were completed that could be your error code and they may be historical and not current - you will know once you clear them if they do not return.
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Thanks for the great info Scott. :2vrolijk_21:
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Don't suppose you have link for them? Can't seem to find anything!
http://www.precisionmv.com/en/galeries_moto.php
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It is easy to check the codes yourself. Just hold the trip switch while turning on the ignition. It will go into diagnostic mode in the odometer window. Cycle through with trip switch. When it says ecm y or other module name hold for 5 secs and it will show codes. Once you have viewed and recorded all codes hold trip switch on previously viewed codes and it will clear them. You will need to do this for each module that shows a code. Internet search will bring up a list of codes and possibly a more clear explanation of process as I am going from memory. If you did not disconnect battery or connected battery before all switch connections were completed that could be your error code and they may be historical and not current - you will know once you clear them if they do not return.
I was Gunna bring it to Harley to see if the codes were anything important but I checked my wires this morning and cleared the codes myself. Went for a ride nothing came up seems to be working properly. Also no I didn’t disconnect the battery’s so maybe that’s why it threw the codes when I had it all torn apart. Thanks I feel much better with no check engine I thought i f$%*ed something up but it seems all good now.
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Good news, glad it worked out. At least you didn't blow a fuse like me. I knew to disconnect the battery, but had to go back after the install was complete and change one thing. Forgot to disconnect battery that time. The things we learn along the way.