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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: btracy1963 on April 17, 2019, 12:47:49 AM
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We were riding home and I noticed a strange knocking and my engine started to jerking a little bit, then I started to hear a screeching noise and it became more frequent and louder!
I used a stethoscope and found the noise was coming from the front cylinder. I removed the rocker assembly and push rods but didn't find any noticeable problems.
I have a recording of this if anyone wants to hear it.
if any one has had a similar issue please help me figure this out.
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Keep digging, you'll find it.
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My lifters always start chirping before they totally go out. Have you looked at them?
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lifter or lifters,
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lifter? :-\ how many miles?
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A pretty common problem with the CVO110 engines unfortunately has been failures of the lifter rollers. That would be my first guess. When a roller locks up and stops rolling, a screeching noise tends to be the first warning, soon to be followed by knocking as the lifter sheds pieces.
Jerry
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Thank you for taking time and leaving your comments.
Should I replace the lifter with the S&S high performance lifters and pushrods? After a lot of research I've been told I have to replace cams, lifters, pushrods and oil pump, also something about the oil blow off valve. Funds are very tight! If I were to replace the lifters and pushrods would this be enough?
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lifter? :-\ how many miles?
around 25 K
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My lifters always start chirping before they totally go out. Have you looked at them?
No but Im going to replace them and hope the cams are ok!
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More likely than not if the lifter failed making those noises then the cam lobe on the failed lifter is also damaged.
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If one or more lifters failed, and you didn't get the engine shut down as soon as you heard the screeching, the odds are pretty high that there will be collateral damage and pieces spread around the engine. Never assume when you suffer a lifter roller failure that you can just replace the lifters and cams; you need to do a complete inspection for all those bits and pieces. They are likely to be in the oil pump, and could also be in the oil pan, oil lines, oil cooler, and crankcase. If you don't get all the pieces cleaned out and all the damaged parts replaced, another failure is almost guaranteed. I know you don't want to hear it, but this kind of failure can be a very expensive repair.
Jerry
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Pull the cam chest apart and go from there. It doesn't good, maybe you caught it
before it grenade d. A full tear down is likely in order. Good excuse to do all kinds
of cool mods. I can get you a new S&S engine.
See what all is damaged and go from there.
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If one or more lifters failed, and you didn't get the engine shut down as soon as you heard the screeching, the odds are pretty high that there will be collateral damage and pieces spread around the engine. Never assume when you suffer a lifter roller failure that you can just replace the lifters and cams; you need to do a complete inspection for all those bits and pieces. They are likely to be in the oil pump, and could also be in the oil pan, oil lines, oil cooler, and crankcase. If you don't get all the pieces cleaned out and all the damaged parts replaced, another failure is almost guaranteed. I know you don't want to hear it, but this kind of failure can be a very expensive repair.
Jerry
I did shut it down farley quick we rode about 10 miles. So I should pull the lifters, check for damage and drain the oil to check for debris? If those thing are clean and intact I probably caught it in time?
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Pull the cam chest apart and go from there. It doesn't good, maybe you caught it
before it grenade d. A full tear down is likely in order. Good excuse to do all kinds
of cool mods. I can get you a new S&S engine.
See what all is damaged and go from there.
I wished I had 10 k to spend!
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I did shut it down farley quick we rode about 10 miles. So I should pull the lifters, check for damage and drain the oil to check for debris? If those thing are clean and intact I probably caught it in time?
A lot of damage can occur in ten miles. At the very least you will need to open up the cam chest, remove the lifters, remove the cam plate, cams, and oil pump, and check for damage and debris. Drain the oil into a clean container and check for metallic particles, remove and cut open the oil filter and look for metallic particles. It doesn't take long for debris to migrate through the system. It is very rare to have a lifter roller fail and not find debris elsewhere.
Jerry
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A lot of damage can occur in ten miles. At the very least you will need to open up the cam chest, remove the lifters, remove the cam plate, cams, and oil pump, and check for damage and debris. Drain the oil into a clean container and check for metallic particles, remove and cut open the oil filter and look for metallic particles. It doesn't take long for debris to migrate through the system. It is very rare to have a lifter roller fail and not find debris elsewhere.
Jerryta
I pulled the lifters and found lifter where the wheel wasn't turning like it should. the cam lobe where this lifters resided looks good. The markings on the cam are different but I believe I'm ok. Im installing S&S Quikee pushrods and S&S lifters. If I start hearing noises I will install the 585 S&S cam. Fingers crossed!
Thank you for your help I truly learned so much from this experience!
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I pulled the lifters and found lifter where the wheel wasn't turning like it should. the cam lobe where this lifters resided looks good. The markings on the cam are different but I believe I'm ok. Im installing S&S Quikee pushrods and S&S lifters. If I start hearing noises I will install the 585 S&S cam. Fingers crossed!
Thank you for your help I truly learned so much from this experience!
Hope you will be the very lucky one to squeak through but frankly I really doubt it. I'm about 99.9% sure you will be in for a very unpleasant and expensive 'surprise' before too long. Having lost three 110" TC motors due to lifter failure I can tell you that by the time you hear / realize there is a problem significant damage has been done. It doesn't take much for microscopic bits of metal to infiltrate the oil pump, the cam bearings and the rod bearings on the crankshaft. Once you hear the noise you described it's already there and you'll have to eventually tear it completely down for a total rebuild. When you do I suggest replacing the oil cooler as it is nigh impossible to clean completely. The oil pan is also difficult to clean because of the baffles in it.
I've enjoyed my 110" TC motors and they ran great but they failed way too early due to the poor engineering of the valve train.
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I agree, I'm not very happy about my cvo 110. It had an oil leak (seep)at the rear head gasket I noticed while cleaning at 29k(obviously leaking before I noticed). Then while pulling the lifters and cams for inspection at 40k the rear cam had overheating witness marking that turned out to be the cam bearing rollers flaking. Installed a new redshift 587 cam,went on a 50 mile road test and the head gasket that was seeping oil blew. Bought a 117 big bore kit and checked the run out on the crank at oil pump which was .0045 but while rotating the rods around I noticed they would bind every couple of turns. I then sent the crank to darkhorse for a rebuild and they called me and said the drive shaft was bent .018 and recommended replacement. I also notice while taking apart the engine the clutch hub splines are failing (chipping). Oh and the engine paint flaking off looks like crap too (granite). My 2002 roadking had 50k on it before I installed the stage 2 and the spring loaded chain tensioners that I heard horror stories about where only half worn. My wife after seeing what this is costing said why don't you sell that thing.
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I agree, I'm not very happy about my cvo 110. It had an oil leak (seep)at the rear head gasket I noticed while cleaning at 29k(obviously leaking before I noticed). Then while pulling the lifters and cams for inspection at 40k the rear cam had overheating witness marking that turned out to be the cam bearing rollers flaking. Installed a new redshift 587 cam,went on a 50 mile road test and the head gasket that was seeping oil blew. Bought a 117 big bore kit and checked the run out on the crank at oil pump which was .0045 but while rotating the rods around I noticed they would bind every couple of turns. I then sent the crank to darkhorse for a rebuild and they called me and said the drive shaft was bent .018 and recommended replacement. I also notice while taking apart the engine the clutch hub splines are failing (chipping). Oh and the engine paint flaking off looks like crap too (granite). My 2002 roadking had 50k on it before I installed the stage 2 and the spring loaded chain tensioners that I heard horror stories about where only half worn. My wife after seeing what this is costing said why don't you sell that thing.
your wife might be right! :2vrolijk_21:
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This sounds like the "Angry Birds" I spoke about on my '09 at 36k.... :jack: