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[1roadking]

Hey guys, looking for some input on upgrading the crank in my 117 twin cam. It’s currently using stock crank with Suburban Speed HD 117 kit including the throttle body and injector upgrade set at 10.7 to 1, Tman 590 Cam, Suburban Speed ported/modified heads with bigger intake valve, Bassani B4 2 into 1 exhaust and tuned by Big Boyz in Maine. I’m really happy with the power and tune but it feels like it vibrates a lot more then it did stock under 3000 rpms. I’m pushing about 125 square on R&R’s dyno with they say is on the low side compared to most dynos. I’m wondering if changing to their 5 piece crank would be worth the investment and smooth it back out. I don’t want to do any more motor work for power just longevity and smoothness. I’ve also noticed my comp knocks and is noisy at idle since the build. Thoughts? The crank is pricey, but I’m local to R&R and know they make a great product and can do the install as well. Any input is appreciated:)

[TorqueInc]

Better off with a s&s 3 piece crank
They can balance to your pistons
No need for plugging or welding

Should have your bike tuned on a dynojet Dyno Dyno using afr instead of the 4 gas nonesense

La Harley or Robb's Dyno are capable tuners

Tyler's performance in Auburn more than capable of doing the wrenching

[Mr. Warlock]

I have the S&S Crank in my 117, it's the smoothest running Harley motor I have ever run/built.

[prodrag1320]

go with either a S&S FW assy or have dark horse rebuild,balance & plug your OEM FW

[YELLOWBIRD]

When I upgraded to the SE Pro Race 117" build, I went with Dark Horse. Had the works done to my original crank.

I could not more stoked and as a bonus, I can sleep at night and not worry whether or not my Crank was going to scissor.

At least for now, I know it's better & stronger then stock.


YB

[1roadking]

So you have noticed a big difference in smoothness with the upgraded crank?

[HD Street Performance]

Did you check runout while doing the upgrades?
Does it vibrate when just holding a constant speed out of gear?

[MCE]

+1 on the S&S crank. (You can't go wrong with S&S). My customers (and myself) all have great results
with S&S' cranks. (Hoban has some nice stuff as well).

When you start playing around with the stroke (rod ratio) he intake centerline needs to be altered slightly
for optimum results. Not absolutely necessary for a mild street engine though.

[Unbalanced]

You might also consider the P3R crank, a little pricey to start out with, but re-buildable if ever necessary.   

https://www.p3rflywheels.com/

[rayson56]

+1 on the S&S crank. (You can't go wrong with S&S). My customers (and myself) all have great results
with S&S' cranks.


Check out this video;

 

[MCE]

That's a pretty convincing test/argument. S&S has always been superior to OEM. There's simply nothing
out there that even compares.

The crank takes allot of abuse, so putting the very best crank money can buy is always a good idea. I used
L.A. Enterprises billet cranks in my Big Block boat engines. They're very expensive, but you get what you
pay for. Harley cranks are no different. All that weld does is tell you that the crank has shifted. You'd have
to significantly "V" that out before welding it in order for it to add any real strength. (No good imo)

Factory cranks are junk for true high-performance builds. (They're barely adequate for a stock engine)

[Unbalanced]

That's a pretty convincing test/argument. S&S has always been superior to OEM. There's simply nothing
out there that even compares.

The crank takes allot of abuse, so putting the very best crank money can buy is always a good idea. I used
L.A. Enterprises billet cranks in my Big Block boat engines. They're very expensive, but you get what you
pay for. Harley cranks are no different. All that weld does is tell you that the crank has shifted. You'd have
to significantly "V" that out before welding it in order for it to add any real strength. (No good imo)

Factory cranks are junk for true high-performance builds. (They're barely adequate for a stock engine)

Matt,

Your reasoning on the boat motors is exactly why the P3R crank is my choice-   Don’t have to worry about soft pins and it will withstand a lot more power and punishment than the stock, welded and S&S crank.    It’s American made,  and Dave the owner is a super nice guy to work with.

[prodrag1320]

a S&S F/W will handle any amount of HP/TQ you can put to it,its also just as rebuildable (if needed) as a P3R and you can buy 2 for hat the P3R costs

[MCE]

+1, I'm pretty sure Kirby abuses the $hit out of his cranks. If S&S is good enough for a T/F bike, they're certainly good enough for anything we can dish out.

[HD Street Performance]

Who said he uses an S&S crank in that bike? Kirby?