Just read the prior post and was thinking, "hmm, attacked it wrong." Then read this one. Glad you got it sorted out.
Your description of the amp settings sounds very similar to what I've seen. My own personal version on the red bike only has the fronts. But the others I've been through were very much as you're describing. Sounds like victory and conquest with wrenches and wire.
Yup, got er dun, but no ride, raining hard all day so far, but the ramp test did the following: With tour pack on, definite difference between component fronts and std rear. Only because no component will fit back there. Anyway, the rears, they did require less freq, tended to be a little bassy, not as crisp with higher freq, so frankly, it is now at the 12oclock pos. Addressed that ok and works for me. Is a nice complement to the fronts, which are the driving force anyway. Fronts are set at about 4oclock on freq, and 3oclock on gain.
The front and rear together sounds like a concert hall, full surround sound system simulation, and at first I really did not know there was a great difference from what I had. But this set up is so loud with no distortion, that it seemed minimal on the difference initially. The fronts alone, without the TP, is awesome too. It is way more than I could use for undistorted volume, whereas before it was loud noise. Now I hear the nuances. Granted, the result will be different riding, but now this can easily override the exhaust tone, IF I want to, and listen to sparkly clear audio. Lets see, loud exhaust, ear plugs, and louder stereo to now hear it throught the earplugs.
Testing this morning resulted in a foursome teeing off giving me a thumbs up from 200 ft. away. I may be using the TP more than I thought, what a contraption just for a set of rears, but for that special other rear, she won't ride without it anyway.
As the instructions, and experience says, easy on the gain from the high level ins. Don't blow it up, it aint like a throttle, set it for finesse.
If there is a downside, it is missing the thump of bass. Again, not probably noticeable to me while riding, but stationary, if a sub was powered and plugged, I could park the bike in my living room and use it as the home stereo. But, I live in Florida, not Missouri, so can't do that.
All in all, taking my time, doing the TP removal, harness removal, amp removal, tank removal and power and tank install, etc, TP and quick detach, HW install, speakers, amps, wires, connectors, fairing removal, dakota ant, bags etc, all on and off, from start to finish for all of it, took me around 11 hours over two days. No helpers, just solo. TP was a beauch, along with a few other miskelaneousses, but it is rewarding to work on the bike without pouring oil all over myself for a change.
In summary re the TP, if I wanted a quick detach system, and did not do a stereo upgrade, just loose the amp, I would elect to do just that. Until I saw and read the details, I had no idea that the AMP could be removed, and the
entire system would just revert back to a classic, while
STILL having the front and rear fade and all radio functions. As I stated before, what a hokey system with that harness thing. Running all the way back to the AMP and then all the way back to the front with a massive bundle, for 8-10 watts.
For those not interested in a TP conversion, and just want better sound, it is not going to be with just a speaker change. I initially went from stock, to J & M's, and was not impressed. I also plugged in a pair of Polk AUdio's too, and was still not impressed. So if possible, the bottom line is to just stick another AMP in, a real one, one that is rated better than 70W/2 at 10%THD. The HW for comparison, are 75/2 x 2 (F/R) but if measured up at 10%THD like Harley did, they are easily 150W/2, but who wants ear splitting distortion. Wonder if THAT is possible? Well, probably not easy to do, since Harley made it up with 2 ohm spkrs. Oh so special eh? Another one for the MOCO book of wonders.
Rhino(whatdidyousaydearicanthearyoupleasestoppinchingmeandenjoytherockandroll)