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Author Topic: Hawg-Wired  (Read 21617 times)

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skyglide

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Hawg-Wired
« on: March 18, 2007, 09:16:41 AM »

Thank you Jim (hd-dude) for the great product and service on the 4 speaker HW amp kit :2vrolijk_21: Is night day differance over stock. Those speakers in the lowers are awesome. Let me know when the sub comes available. For any of you who are on the fence of getting this Hawg-wired setup, its money well spent.

Thanks.
 John
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VANAMAL

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2007, 10:47:19 AM »

thats good to hear. i want jim to do mine also. is there a woofer in the works?
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tommyo

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2007, 08:49:09 PM »

How would you compare to the Hog Tunes set up?
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skyglide

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2007, 09:00:19 PM »

How would you compare to the Hog Tunes set up?
I had Hog Tunes on my 04 seeg and blew them out two different times >:(

This time I went with HW with the component speakers. So far they are great :2vrolijk_21:

I know Hog Tunes are offering a similar setup for much less. Hence the old saying you get what you pay for.

Hawg Wired made in USA  :)                 Hog Tunes made in China >:(

Just my two cents on past experience. Good luck
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2007, 10:38:42 AM »

I had Hog Tunes on my 04 seeg and blew them out two different times >:(

This time I went with HW with the component speakers. So far they are great :2vrolijk_21:

I know Hog Tunes are offering a similar setup for much less. Hence the old saying you get what you pay for.

Hawg Wired made in USA  :)                 Hog Tunes made in China >:(

Just my two cents on past experience. Good luck

Anyone tried the J&M speaker upgrades? (Sorry Jim  :nervous:)

The elite headset was SUCH an improvement I was wondering...
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2007, 09:15:20 PM »

I have J&M speakers on my EG and they are definitely an upgrade from stock. I am waiting for my HW component speakers and the PSC 1502 amp to arrive. Specs are superior to whats available elsewhere. I looked at hogtune setup, titan setup and decided to spring for the big money setup. Hope its woth it.
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skyglide

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #6 on: April 20, 2007, 11:15:19 PM »

I took a pic. of these when I did install. stock speaker on left and HW on right what a differance.
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kojak

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2007, 07:35:11 PM »

It was worth it! :2vrolijk_21: The Hawg-Wired setup is clear as a bell even at super high volume. I went from stock speakers to J&M speakers to Hawg-Wired amp and speakers. If you havent heard it, you wont understand!
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2007, 05:12:55 PM »

Why can't  I hear on the internet? :) Thanks for the update next on my list  :2vrolijk_21:
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DW6019

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AVC
« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2007, 08:50:39 PM »

Maybe everyone else read the owners manual and knew this but I didn't. If you go into the radio menu you can raise the auto volume control ratio. I raised mine to the max (4) and it is a major difference with the Hawg Wired Speakers. Volume increases faster/quicker up and down. Simple change that actually makes a difference.
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VAZHOG

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Re: AVC
« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2007, 04:50:43 PM »

Maybe everyone else read the owners manual and knew this but I didn't. If you go into the radio menu you can raise the auto volume control ratio. I raised mine to the max (4) and it is a major difference with the Hawg Wired Speakers. Volume increases faster/quicker up and down. Simple change that actually makes a difference.

Another one reads the book ( Sung to the tune of ) another one bites the dust :)
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Re: AVC
« Reply #11 on: May 02, 2007, 03:09:56 PM »

Another one reads the book ( Sung to the tune of ) another one bites the dust :)
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bisounours

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2007, 07:58:40 AM »

On the CUSE² 07, we need 2 ohms speakers.

We found not these products with HW (or we need to change the amp.)
We found these product with J&M ref#HCUR-06 and HCUS-06GT.

Is this choice a good upgrade ?

Thanks
Jacques
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cigarmike

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Re: AVC
« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2007, 11:13:21 AM »

Maybe everyone else read the owners manual and knew this but I didn't. If you go into the radio menu you can raise the auto volume control ratio. I raised mine to the max (4) and it is a major difference with the Hawg Wired Speakers. Volume increases faster/quicker up and down. Simple change that actually makes a difference.

For those of us that cant read...( or misplaced our manuals) can you explain how to do this???
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Fired00d

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Re: AVC
« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2007, 11:20:45 AM »

For those of us that cant read...( or misplaced our manuals) can you explain how to do this???

Mike,
Check this thread out - Automatic volume control.

Just in case some of the pictures/post happen to be missing from site software switch here is the link to old board - Automatic volume control.

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kojak

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2007, 12:36:38 PM »

Jacques, I picked the best speakers I could find and worked backwards from there. The 4 ohm component speakers from Hawg-Wired have external crossover(it really helps separate the midrange/treble) and a massive magnet. You will need an external amp to drive them. Look on the bright side, mount the amp on top of the radiohead like older models and your 07 can have a removable tourpak as well.
 
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2007, 12:57:32 PM »

Sure, HW seems the better product for our bikes but change all the line is $$$$ !
Later, probably, I'll be interested for change the design of my bike with the removable tourpack.

Now; I look only if it's possible for a better sound with the J&M.

Thanks
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2007, 02:01:11 PM »

HD=Have Debt! :drink:
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #18 on: June 26, 2007, 01:45:01 PM »

By the way  Hog Wired makes 2 ohm speakers :
Hog wired BT502-40   109.95
BT502-40 Specifications
2 ohm, 25mm voice coil
40 Watts RMS, 120 Watts Peak (Rated - 40 Watts)
1" PEI dome coax-mounted tweeter
5.25" polypropylene mid-range cone
8 oz. magnet with rubber cover

If you go with thier amp upgrade you can run the 4 ohm , and their ultra premium speakers.
Don't run the 4 ohms unless you do the amp upgrade

The standard 4 ohms:
BT504-50 Specifications   109.95

4 ohm, 25mm voice coil
50 Watts RMS, 150 Watts Peak (Rated - 50 Watts)
1" PEI dome coax-mounted tweeter
5.25" polypropylene mid-range cone
8 oz. magnet with rubber cover



 

 .


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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2007, 01:53:32 PM »

By the way  Hog Wired makes 2 ohm speakers :
Hog wired BT502-40   109.95
BT502-40 Specifications
2 ohm, 25mm voice coil
40 Watts RMS, 120 Watts Peak (Rated - 40 Watts)
1" PEI dome coax-mounted tweeter
5.25" polypropylene mid-range cone
8 oz. magnet with rubber cover

If you go with thier amp upgrade you can run the 4 ohm , and their ultra premium speakers.
Don't run the 4 ohms unless you do the amp upgrade

The standard 4 ohms:
BT504-50 Specifications   109.95

4 ohm, 25mm voice coil
50 Watts RMS, 150 Watts Peak (Rated - 50 Watts)
1" PEI dome coax-mounted tweeter
5.25" polypropylene mid-range cone
8 oz. magnet with rubber cover



I am a HW dealer and need to clarify a few things.
The 2 ohm BT series speakers are not being sold at this time. Hawg-wired has some new 2 ohm units that will be released soon that have great performance over stock.


For those that have the 04-05 SEEG's you can run the 4 ohm CX series speakers without the added amp. The SEEG radio has a built in additional amp that utilizes a 4 ohm output.

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #20 on: June 27, 2007, 07:13:08 AM »

Thanks for the clarification , I was going off the Hawg-Wires site info ..

I'll be waiting for the new ones as I'm running an 07 FLHX
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #21 on: July 07, 2007, 10:21:42 PM »

Jim, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you!
Just took my 05 SEEG for a nice trip today and the new HW speakers, amp and radio blew me away. :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
I had hoped for a big difference but it is so much better than I'd imagined. At 85 mph in heavy truck traffic with a full face on, the sound was clear as can be with all the volume I will ever need. (blew away cars around me and got quite a few  :2vrolijk_21:)
Incredible improvement over the original POS.
Thanks again.
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2007, 11:51:38 PM »

Jim, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you!
Just took my 05 SEEG for a nice trip today and the new HW speakers, amp and radio blew me away. :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
I had hoped for a big difference but it is so much better than I'd imagined. At 85 mph in heavy truck traffic with a full face on, the sound was clear as can be with all the volume I will ever need. (blew away cars around me and got quite a few  :2vrolijk_21:)
Incredible improvement over the original POS.
Thanks again.

Mark;
Glad you are enjoying your new sounds! Thanks!

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #23 on: July 08, 2007, 08:35:36 PM »

ME TOO! Thanks jim for all your help and the discount too. No trouble hearing it NOW!! :bananarock: :bananarock: :2vrolijk_08: :smilie_koch1: Had to put the the steak because im hungry. For those that dont know i was born after dinner and have been one meal behind my whole life
« Last Edit: July 08, 2007, 08:37:20 PM by VANAMAL »
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #24 on: July 20, 2007, 12:09:35 AM »

HW - there is no substitute - SMOKIN! Got the whole component and amp setup from Jim a while back - thanks man - this rocks. I Run it with a portable XM Inno which is low on output, I have the Amp at 1/2 way and can crank the volume up to 1/2 way and the cars next to me at a stop light can't hear the pipes at idle!
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #25 on: July 27, 2007, 07:41:55 PM »

Got my amp and 4 speakers from Jim on Wednesday. Started the install Thursday and finished it this morning. What a difference! Thanks Jim, for the help, it's a great product and makes a world of difference.
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #26 on: August 04, 2007, 03:41:54 PM »

Need a quick recommmendation I am getting an 08 SE ultra in two weeks and want to upgrade the sound and make the TP removable. I will keep the factory radio and probably only have the TP off about a third of the time. So for the most part I will run a 4 spkr setup. First question will the HW amp work with the factory headunit? If it doesnt will I hear much of a difference by just changing the 4 factory spkrs to the HW 2 ohm replacements? Any help is appreciated!
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #27 on: August 04, 2007, 03:55:08 PM »

Need a quick recommmendation I am getting an 08 SE ultra in two weeks and want to upgrade the sound and make the TP removable. I will keep the factory radio and probably only have the TP off about a third of the time. So for the most part I will run a 4 spkr setup. First question will the HW amp work with the factory headunit? If it doesnt will I hear much of a difference by just changing the 4 factory spkrs to the HW 2 ohm replacements? Any help is appreciated!
One of our members has a great report/pictorial on installing the Hawg Wired system on his bike. The bike is actually an '05 SEEG, but he has upgraded the radio to the Harmon Kardon unit that will be on your bike I believe.

Check out these threads..

"Hawg Wired" 150 watt in fairing amplifier kit.

New Hawg Wired component speakers.

Also check in our Vendor Discount Board as one of the members here offers discount on Hawg Wired Products.

If you have any other questions you can PM the member w/the discounts and I'm sure he'll see this thread also.

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2007, 11:51:55 PM »

Need a quick recommmendation I am getting an 08 SE ultra in two weeks and want to upgrade the sound and make the TP removable. I will keep the factory radio and probably only have the TP off about a third of the time. So for the most part I will run a 4 spkr setup. First question will the HW amp work with the factory headunit? If it doesnt will I hear much of a difference by just changing the 4 factory spkrs to the HW 2 ohm replacements? Any help is appreciated!

The HW amps works seamlessly with the factory radios. The 2 0hm replacements are not officially out yet althought they are listed on the HW website. If you try to order them they wll show as back orderered. The new 2 ohm speakers will be out in the next couple of weeks and are better than the stockers. (one of our members here is beta testing some for me). You can call me with any questions, I will PM my number.....

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #29 on: August 23, 2007, 02:43:47 PM »

The HW amps works seamlessly with the factory radios. The 2 0hm replacements are not officially out yet althought they are listed on the HW website. If you try to order them they wll show as back orderered. The new 2 ohm speakers will be out in the next couple of weeks and are better than the stockers. (one of our members here is beta testing some for me). You can call me with any questions, I will PM my number.....

I just got an 08 CVO Ultra, and also plan to remove the TP and switch to HW amp.  I was planning on doing the removable TP and removing the rear amp this weekend, and installing the HW amp next month or so.  I was told the radio will not work once the rear amp is removed, unless I add the HW amp.  Is this true.  Could you send me your number, so I can call you and discuss the install.

Thanks
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #30 on: August 23, 2007, 02:48:46 PM »

I just got an 08 CVO Ultra, and also plan to remove the TP and switch to HW amp.  I was planning on doing the removable TP and removing the rear amp this weekend, and installing the HW amp next month or so.  I was told the radio will not work once the rear amp is removed, unless I add the HW amp.  Is this true.  Could you send me your number, so I can call you and discuss the install.

Thanks

The radio works just fine without the amp. Without the amp, it is the same as on the Ultra. All the amp does is give you more power, it is not a must have.

Mine is removed and I have not installed anything except new speakers.

:indian_chief:
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #31 on: August 23, 2007, 08:29:21 PM »

The radio works just fine without the amp. Without the amp, it is the same as on the Ultra. All the amp does is give you more power, it is not a must have.

Mine is removed and I have not installed anything except new speakers.

:indian_chief:

Looks like you have an 07 CVO Ultra.  What issues will I run into in rempving the TP?  What did you do with both antennas, the wires to the amp, the heated seat wires, etc.  I believe the only difference I have is the power lock wire to the TP.  I plan to switch seats, but when I travel I will reinstall the stock seat and the TP.  I would want to use the seat heater and the CB antenna then.

Thanks
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #32 on: August 23, 2007, 10:55:51 PM »

Below is an e-mail answer from Mike Hughes with Hawg-Wired.  I thought some of you might also be interested in what Mike had to say:


yes, our amplifier systems all fit in your '08 fairing, with the main unit on top of your Harman/Kardon radio. Regardless of navigation (which is a module inside the radio), if you have both XM and CB/Intercom, you don't need anything additional. If you don't have CB/Intercom but do have XM, then you'll need our dummy module to make a level surface on top of the radio. Most likely though, you won't need the dummy module.
When it comes to your Tour-Pak amplifier though, the best thing to do is unfortunately the most work, and that's to remove the stock amp and its entire harness from front to rear. Once that amp harness is removed, there's a few connections on the regular harness that need to be put back together too, so that when you're all done your 4 speaker system works like a regular Ultra Classic without the Tour-Pak amp. Once you get your bike to this state, our amplifier install is a cake walk by comparison.
The worst thing about our install is running the dedicated power wire from the fairing to the battery.

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #33 on: August 23, 2007, 11:05:29 PM »

Below is an e-mail answer from Mike Hughes with Hawg-Wired.  I thought some of you might also be interested in what Mike had to say:


yes, our amplifier systems all fit in your '08 fairing, with the main unit on top of your Harman/Kardon radio. Regardless of navigation (which is a module inside the radio), if you have both XM and CB/Intercom, you don't need anything additional. If you don't have CB/Intercom but do have XM, then you'll need our dummy module to make a level surface on top of the radio. Most likely though, you won't need the dummy module.
When it comes to your Tour-Pak amplifier though, the best thing to do is unfortunately the most work, and that's to remove the stock amp and its entire harness from front to rear. Once that amp harness is removed, there's a few connections on the regular harness that need to be put back together too, so that when you're all done your 4 speaker system works like a regular Ultra Classic without the Tour-Pak amp. Once you get your bike to this state, our amplifier install is a cake walk by comparison.
The worst thing about our install is running the dedicated power wire from the fairing to the battery.



Rebel, if pictures help here's a thread with an install.  Shows the dummy module mentioned and running the power wire from the batter.  Lifting the tank isn't really a big deal.  So that's nothing to be particularly troubled by.  Good luck if you decide to tackle it.  They are a nice system.

http://old.flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?num=1131935924/0#0
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LRebel

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #34 on: August 24, 2007, 11:23:39 AM »

Twolane,

Thanks for the info w/pics.

I would really like to get the amp out from under my tourpak.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #35 on: August 24, 2007, 11:54:08 AM »

Twolane,

Thanks for the info w/pics.

I would really like to get the amp out from under my tourpak.

That was something I was never taken with when they were released.  Losing the detachability and having that big honking harness far too visible were both significant detractions in my book.

Several of the people here have done what you're considering.  I've helped one buddy here locally do the same thing.  Removing it all isn't really a big deal.  Once the tank and outer fairing off it's all wide open and easy to get to.
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Chief

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #36 on: August 27, 2007, 12:39:53 PM »

Looks like you have an 07 CVO Ultra.  What issues will I run into in rempving the TP?  What did you do with both antennas, the wires to the amp, the heated seat wires, etc.  I believe the only difference I have is the power lock wire to the TP.  I plan to switch seats, but when I travel I will reinstall the stock seat and the TP.  I would want to use the seat heater and the CB antenna then.

Thanks

The TP comes off very easily. I have a trick antenna I use that goes through one of the filler strips, using a modified Road Glide stock antenna bracket. There is a HD antenna relo kit that is easier. The wires to the amp are removed as the amp is never used, even when the TP is on. The heated seat is not affected. All extra wires are coiled up under the seat and everything is hooked up when the TP is back on.

The process is discussed several places on the site.

:indian_chief:
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #37 on: August 27, 2007, 01:44:59 PM »

When you're looking at doing the amp removal etc. you can also mount the tourpak in the forward position so it acts as a back rest, and  [more important to me] moves the weight of the tourpak forward and down.  My better half prefers to keep her BSR work to the car, so I'm on the road solo.
Jim at Metal Dragon did the initial conversion from HD amp to HW, and made the tourpak removable but still in stock two up position.  I then got an HD solo seat, front detachable docking kit, and the solo tourpak rack.    Just did 900 miles Friday/Sunday, and it works like a dream; told my two buddies who helped me with the install that they had helped create the first CVO Barcalounger....
here's a pic from the trip...
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #38 on: August 27, 2007, 02:12:13 PM »

When you're looking at doing the amp removal etc. you can also mount the tourpak in the forward position so it acts as a back rest, and  [more important to me] moves the weight of the tourpak forward and down.  My better half prefers to keep her BSR work to the car, so I'm on the road solo.
Jim at Metal Dragon did the initial conversion from HD amp to HW, and made the tourpak removable but still in stock two up position.  I then got an HD solo seat, front detachable docking kit, and the solo tourpak rack.    Just did 900 miles Friday/Sunday, and it works like a dream; told my two buddies who helped me with the install that they had helped create the first CVO Barcalounger....
here's a pic from the trip...
'
Great idea, looks great.  BTW, what pipes are you using?
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #39 on: August 27, 2007, 04:32:23 PM »

Vance & Hines dual headers with SuperTrapps; had the Rineharts but they were way too loud for me.  Took the Supertrapps to a shop where they knew how to tune them, and they got the right balance of bark when you go to WOT but quiet when you're cruising.
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Rhino

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #40 on: August 30, 2007, 11:06:27 PM »

The TP comes off very easily. I have a trick antenna I use that goes through one of the filler strips, using a modified Road Glide stock antenna bracket. There is a HD antenna relo kit that is easier. The wires to the amp are removed as the amp is never used, even when the TP is on. The heated seat is not affected. All extra wires are coiled up under the seat and everything is hooked up when the TP is back on.

The process is discussed several places on the site.

:indian_chief:

I just installed the Dakota Digital Antenna in the fairing, works amazingly well, and allows great FM when riding without the TOUR PACK. Well, actually it works fine in my shop. Have not completed the other stuff yet.

All part of the quick detach TourPack concept. Now, without TourPack, I lose CB, & lose 2 rear speakers, because it is disconnected. Without AMP, I lose nothing, except that crazy wiring harness, what an engineers dream that was, while the radio and all headunit features remain unaffected.

TourPack install and removal is now easy with the quick detach kit. Also allows me now to use any Harley quick detach items also, like a sissy bar etc. 4 plugs remain wrapped up in a baggie under the solo seat, the left spkr and right spkr plugs, the locking tourpac power plug, and another, the CB Plug and the extra plugs for additional power, which fit neatly baack in place when reinstalling the Pak.  I would think now it would be a 15 minute job to replace the TPack, somewhat less for removal.  Fine by me. 

That harness was for one thing only, it ran front to back to front from the amp.  Seems that it would have been simpler to just locate it somewhere convenient, but I was told, the only reason that the harness existed that way for the AMP, was because all of the Ultras were built the same way electrically, the CVO had the AMP and rather than make it special, they just added this crap to interface it to the 'standard system'. That is why losing the AMP and the HARNESS affects nothing, except a few watts of audio power.  And that is all it actually is, about 8 watts per channel for what Harley calls the 'deluxe' audio??? Give me a break.  To clarify, they claim 70W at 10%THD!. Big deal, that is distorted. There is a formula, but the point is, rated watts are normally stated at .01 THD 70 W at that would be clean. Normally manfacturers knw well that their Wats can be much higher too, but they list the max at the lowest THD. Moving Halrey HK unit to .01THD gives the numbers listed here. FWIW, hope this puts it into perspective compared to HawgWired, whcih give 300 W, or 75W per channel at that .01THD.  The could easily claim 500W, but whats the bpoint if the quality sucks.

Should be receiving HW stuff in the AM, went with components front and std HW rears, found a very friendly fellow offering a well priced system at www.dumbassbiker.com  Name is a hoot, the fellow BOB, thee DumbAss Biker, is a low priced internet only dealer for thousands of things not listed on his website too. Very informative, and if he does not know the answer, he will hook you up with the mfr direct.  I also heard he sells Baker trannies lower than anyone in the US, but unconfirmed.

Anyway, the harness was easy once I started looking at it.  You disconnect everything along the way, rear to front, you now plug the rear speakers into the plug direct. Same with front speakers, you take the harness out and reconnect the speaker conncetors. Simple stuff.  Disconnect the ground and unplug the power located under the seat, and the entire harness kind of falls out.  I took a look at this mess and could not believe it.  They say you did it right, if after the harness and AMP is GONE and stuff plugged back in, that all functions work normally. So yes, I have everything working perfectly, except for those extra 8 watts per channel. Geez.   This much took about 1 hour, including the removal of TP.   It took another hour or so to install the Harley quick release stuff on the BIKE.  It will take me another hour I guess, to install the new bottom plates oin the TourPack.

I am taking my time, not rushing, doing a lot of cleaning under all those spaces I find, so that adds a little, and so does those thirst quenching breaks.

So I figure it will take another hour to install the amps, and a little time to do the speaker replacements too.  Another hour to wrap it up, tie it and install the front fairing, but, frankly I am not documenting the time, I just know I started it today, worked on it on and off for a few hours, and will do same tommorrow, and will be riding tommorrow eve with the front components tuned and roaring away throught the neighborhood.

If I feel like it, I will install the 4ohms in the TP and mount the hardware on it, but I think it will be sitting till next weekend, when momma gets home and wants to ride.

Hope this helps a little, I kinda like doing my own thing, learning by doing, and most importantly, CVOHARLEY.COM HAS PROVIDED ME WITH ALL OF THE INFORMATION TO MAKE ALL OF THIS POSSIBLE. We have a network beter than any dealer could hope and dream to have, and we have it all right here!!!


Rhino(movingaheadwithstuffwhilewifeisoutoftownotherwiseiwouldbeupthecreekyaknow)
« Last Edit: August 31, 2007, 12:50:14 AM by Rhino »
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Twolanerider

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #41 on: August 31, 2007, 01:48:14 AM »

That's a productive change to make Rhino.  Have done it to a couple of bikes from around here.  Much cleaner and simpler when you're done and the HW amp significantly outperforms what you've removed so far.
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Rhino

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #42 on: August 31, 2007, 04:27:19 AM »

That's a productive change to make Rhino.  Have done it to a couple of bikes from around here.  Much cleaner and simpler when you're done and the HW amp significantly outperforms what you've removed so far.

TL, I agree. Or at least for this expense, it had better...  I will be installing the rest of the stuff today, and a quick stop at the stealer will get me a lay down lic plate holder, a neccessity as yu said earlier somewhere. 

I did this so if I ever go through Denver, the music will cover up the exhaust, foolling the cops to think I have an electric-no noise exhausted bike. Whatddayathink, some say I need therapy.

When I spoke to the factory at HW, I dicussed the integration of the headunit to the new amps.  The amps are only driving what signal it is given, and in this case it is the stock Harley radio speaker outputs, where it gets its feeds from.  The ease of install is straightforward to, this way it is plug and play with the exception of 4 rear speaker wires, which you are actually taking from the main harness at the headunit radio, and rerouting it to the input on the HW amp. The additional provided harnesses plug right in.

Set up is important so you don't go for the highest head unit volumes, or speakers can blow, you are going for abolute highest volume without disortion.  The head output is what it is.  Most integrated factory radios do have changes on the outputs of their own designs.  For example, I wanted al of the functionality of my truck head unit, becasue, like the Harley, it has the XM, radio, cb, intercom, gps all shown on the screen, and works with all the handgrip/steering wheel remotes too. So in the case of Harley, and my truck, I did not want to loses any of those feature things. 

In the case of the truck, it is quieter inside, let's face it, so I installed one extra component, called a cleansweep, which took the headunit disparities and provided the amps with a true flat corrected signal.  The amps then could stay at their designed THD's, because it now amplified a cleaner signal.   In the case of the HW, you need to make sure that the head unit outputs are not driven beyond their sweet spot output, so the HW can do their thing in the cleanest way possible. That way, the HW's amp a cleaner signal too.  That is adjustable on the new amps, and YOU set it, befor you reinstall the front fairing. Same with front componenet speakers if you elected to add them.

So far, nothing was difficult at all.   I am hoping I can route the #10 power wire in the plastic under-tank channel without removing the fuel tank. Seems a fish can get through for the new power and grounding, unless the ground can be closer to the radio.  AMps MUST be powered from the battery direct. Did not read that far yet if ground can be framed closer in.

Rhino(sonowineedatrailertopullwithbiketoholdgiantbatterytopowersubwhichwouldalsobeinstalledintrailertomakeithopoffthegoundupanddown)

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Twolanerider

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #43 on: August 31, 2007, 11:46:45 AM »



So far, nothing was difficult at all.   I am hoping I can route the #10 power wire in the plastic under-tank channel without removing the fuel tank. Seems a fish can get through for the new power and grounding, unless the ground can be closer to the radio.  AMps MUST be powered from the battery direct. Did not read that far yet if ground can be framed closer in.




In four HW installs (my own bike as the first one, an FLHX and two that included HK amp removals like yours) I pulled the tank each time.  Too easy to do not to make sure.  On each of those installs I used the frame grounding point on the right side of the frame very close to where the cruise cut off switch is in the throttle cable.  An easy location to access that is held to ground by a larger fastener rather than a little sheet metal screw as are the other two available up inside the fairing.

The adjustable range of the HW amp is significant.  You'll find yourself playing with it a little.  Don't be tricked, however, in to finding it's happy point with the outer fairing off.  The front speakers sound significantly different with the outer fairing on or off.  For your own curiosity you might also hook everthing up with and without the component speakers.  The difference they provide is far more than merely noticable.
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Rhino

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #44 on: September 01, 2007, 05:32:17 AM »


In four HW installs (my own bike as the first one, an FLHX and two that included HK amp removals like yours) I pulled the tank each time.  Too easy to do not to make sure.  On each of those installs I used the frame grounding point on the right side of the frame very close to where the cruise cut off switch is in the throttle cable.  An easy location to access that is held to ground by a larger fastener rather than a little sheet metal screw as are the other two available up inside the fairing.

The adjustable range of the HW amp is significant.  You'll find yourself playing with it a little.  Don't be tricked, however, in to finding it's happy point with the outer fairing off.  The front speakers sound significantly different with the outer fairing on or off.  For your own curiosity you might also hook everthing up with and without the component speakers.  The difference they provide is far more than merely noticable.

You're right TL,  skip the trouble and go directly to tank removal. So much easier to work with, and laying in the power cable correctly.  I would not even suggest trying to fish, the CVO bundles are far to large, so, this step make it very easy. 

As far as settings, I found rears needed more freq about 6 oclock position, (clockwise) to freshen it, while the front ended up about 3 oclock. Using the 4 ohm HW component speakers front w crossovers, BT's rear standard HW 4ohm.

The gain for front settled in little more than about 3 oclock postion, and the rears about 4 oclock for tuning last night. Today, I will listen again, but i am not sure that setting it higher will be neccessary, or to close to the 'breaking point'.   Although there is a ton more, I did not want to push it too loud.  Setting was done using fade for the speaker set being checked, and bass and treble full off postiions on head unit. Is this similar to what you have found for freq and gain??

I also installed the Quick release for leather tour pack.  At this time, I have it off, and the seat off, and harnesses disconected.  It leaves me with the following wire harnesses:

1. Radio Antenna wrapped up, will not be using, went dakota digital.
2. Left side and right side long harnesses to connect L & R rears speakers when TP is installed.
3. Harness connector, short lead, connects TP for intercom when TP installed. Long harness is on TP side.
4. Long Harness wire, used for TP lock, and CB antenna, and TP light. This is the long one that reinstalls up into grommet hole, bottom of TP and reinstalls inside TP box itself.

So, I have the three long harnesses, 2a, 2b and 4 above, and one connector (this one is easy with a cap), but now what?  I tried wrapping them up and putting  under seat by backrest area. Obviously not enough room. Bagged it and stuffed it, no not good.  I need to be able to store these, but under seat is not it, it crushes things a bit.   Do you know perhaps where I can make, or who makes or could make extension harnesses that will loose this stuff, and therefore would have short leads with protective caps, like the intercom, and the extensions used when adding on TP? That would be the cleanest solution. Little hard work up front, but good long term solution.

Rhino



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Rhino

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #45 on: September 01, 2007, 12:33:03 PM »

So, I have the three long harnesses, 2a, 2b and 4 above, and one connector (this one is easy with a cap), but now what?  I tried wrapping them up and putting  under seat by backrest area. Obviously not enough room.
Rhino

UPDATE: Duh, attacked it wrong. Wires run neatly where they were supposed to be, except CB/Intercom/Light harness. That is small, fits right in where heated seat plugs are, no room problem. Finally got it done, tied, etc.  Time to ride new tunes and new look....for the day anyway..
Rhino
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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #46 on: September 01, 2007, 12:47:37 PM »

UPDATE: Duh, attacked it wrong. Wires run neatly where they were supposed to be, except CB/Intercom/Light harness. That is small, fits right in where heated seat plugs are, no room problem. Finally got it done, tied, etc.  Time to ride new tunes and new look....for the day anyway..
Rhino


Just read the prior post and was thinking, "hmm, attacked it wrong."  Then read this one.  Glad you got it sorted out.

Your description of the amp settings sounds very similar to what I've seen.  My own personal version on the red bike only has the fronts.  But the others I've been through were very much as you're describing.  Sounds like victory and conquest with wrenches and wire.
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Rhino

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #47 on: September 01, 2007, 09:48:54 PM »


Just read the prior post and was thinking, "hmm, attacked it wrong."  Then read this one.  Glad you got it sorted out.

Your description of the amp settings sounds very similar to what I've seen.  My own personal version on the red bike only has the fronts.  But the others I've been through were very much as you're describing.  Sounds like victory and conquest with wrenches and wire.

Yup, got er dun,  but no ride, raining hard all day so far, but the ramp test did the following:  With tour pack on, definite difference between component fronts and std rear.  Only because no component will fit back there.  Anyway, the rears, they did require less freq, tended to be a little bassy, not as crisp with higher freq, so frankly, it is now at the 12oclock pos. Addressed that ok and works for me.  Is a nice complement to the fronts, which are the driving force anyway. Fronts are set at about 4oclock on freq, and 3oclock on gain.

The front and rear together sounds like a concert hall, full surround sound system simulation, and at first I really did not know there was a great difference from what I had. But this set up is so loud with no distortion, that it seemed minimal on the difference initially.  The fronts alone, without the TP, is awesome too.  It is way more than I could use for undistorted volume, whereas before it was loud noise. Now I hear the nuances. Granted, the result will be different riding, but now this can easily override the exhaust tone, IF I want to, and listen to sparkly clear audio.  Lets see, loud exhaust, ear plugs, and louder stereo to now hear it throught the earplugs.

Testing this morning resulted in a foursome teeing off giving me a thumbs up from 200 ft. away.  I may be using the TP more than I thought, what a contraption just for a set of rears, but for that special other rear, she won't ride without it anyway.

As the instructions, and experience says, easy on the gain from the high level ins. Don't blow it up, it aint like a throttle, set it for finesse.
If there is a downside, it is missing the thump of bass. Again, not probably noticeable to me while riding, but stationary, if a sub was powered and plugged, I could park the bike in my living room and use it as the home stereo. But, I live in Florida, not Missouri, so can't do that.

All in all, taking my time, doing the TP removal, harness removal, amp removal, tank removal and power and tank install, etc, TP and quick detach, HW install, speakers, amps, wires, connectors, fairing removal, dakota ant, bags etc, all on and off, from start to finish for all of it, took me around 11 hours over two days. No helpers, just solo. TP was a beauch, along with a few other miskelaneousses, but it is rewarding to work on the bike without pouring oil all over myself for a change.

In summary re the TP, if I wanted a quick detach system, and did not do a stereo upgrade, just loose the amp, I would elect to do just that.  Until I saw and read the details, I had no idea that the AMP could be removed, and the entire system would just revert back to a classic, while STILL having the front and rear fade and all radio functions.  As I stated before, what a hokey system with that harness thing. Running all the way back to the AMP and then all the way back to the front with a massive bundle, for 8-10 watts. 

For those not interested in a TP conversion, and just want better sound, it is not going to be with just a speaker change.  I initially went from stock, to J & M's, and was not impressed.  I also plugged in a pair of Polk AUdio's too, and was still not impressed.  So if possible, the bottom line is to just stick another AMP in, a real one, one that is rated better than 70W/2 at 10%THD. The HW for comparison, are 75/2  x  2 (F/R) but if measured up at 10%THD like Harley did, they are easily 150W/2, but who wants ear splitting distortion. Wonder if THAT is possible? Well, probably not easy to do, since Harley made it up with 2 ohm spkrs. Oh so special eh? Another one for the MOCO book of wonders.

Rhino(whatdidyousaydearicanthearyoupleasestoppinchingmeandenjoytherockandroll)

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #48 on: September 22, 2007, 10:40:31 PM »

i just purchased the hw 4 channel system. after reading this thread... would someone please install it for me. :znotworthy:



TN


Sure...
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You did mean in my bike didn't you. :huepfenlol2:

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #49 on: November 23, 2007, 04:30:03 PM »



HAWG WIRED is the "BOMB"


Ordered the 150W 2 channel system from Jim (hd-dude).
Plan was to install on Nancy's bike as a Christmas present.
She went to her mothers today for Thanksgiving.
I started the installation right after she left at 8:00.
Four hours later   "DONE".
I was worried that I would need some help since the installation is way over my head.
Jim told me not to worry.

It sounds great!
Excellent instructions.
Installation a piece of cake!
Everything sounds good in the garage.
Took it out on the highway and set it on cruise at 90.
WOW, plenty of volume and crystal clear.

She will be home later this evening, hope she likes it.
I sure do!


Hawg Wired has become like Traxxion, a must for every bike I own!
Thanks Jim!

 :2vrolijk_21:


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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #50 on: November 23, 2007, 04:46:40 PM »

Sounds like I'm out a few hundred $$ more because of you guys......

Shheesh, when does it end.  The HW system just made it to the top of my list.   :cherry:
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SilverDawg

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #51 on: November 23, 2007, 11:53:49 PM »

I was at the HD store today and they had a Street Glide hooked up with the HW system (two fairing speakers and two in the lowers as well).  I gotta tell you, it sounded great.  If I keep the Jester, they are going on in the Spring.  If not, a definite must in the next bike.

HD Dude,  you listening ;D
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2008 FLHTCU Candy Red Sunglo -ABS/Security/SERT/V&H ovals
2008 FXCWC - Pacific Blue Pearl Deluxe-SOLD

The poster formally known as Cobaltman...



"As I grow older, I pay less attention to what men say.  I just watch what they do." - Andrew Carnegie

hd-dude

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #52 on: November 24, 2007, 04:27:01 PM »

I was at the HD store today and they had a Street Glide hooked up with the HW system (two fairing speakers and two in the lowers as well).  I gotta tell you, it sounded great.  If I keep the Jester, they are going on in the Spring.  If not, a definite must in the next bike.

HD Dude,  you listening ;D

Yep, I'm listening, Loud and clear..(since I have the Hawg-wired) ;D

SBB

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #53 on: November 24, 2007, 04:44:30 PM »



And I have to say,

Buy your HAWG WIRED from hd-dude.
WHY YOU ASK?
 
1)  I'm not sure who else sells it but he offers the site members a 10% discount.
2)  He has done many of the installs and is a cornucopia (hows that Don?) of install information.
3)  He stands behind what he sells.
4)  He's Jim, that's enough reason for me!

 ;D
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2012      SERG  "Nu Blue"
2018      Goldwing   
2003      HD Electra Glide Classic Silver and Black, of course!                
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spydglide

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Re: Hawg-Wired
« Reply #54 on: November 24, 2007, 06:40:02 PM »

would i benefit from having the fade option programed in on the stock advanced unit? rear control on l/s works but r/s is not functional. made the ultra pak detachable but i have another fl for a bar hopper.... :huepfenlol2:

batting inside the fairing probably doesn't help but it's there. i now need to replace factory grills.

 i wish i could justify the weather option on my zumo but a $100 a month.... :nixweiss:....



i'm all jacked up on kona

TN

it's gotta be something.  har!  :huepfenjump3: spyder
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2004 FLHTCSE Cobalt 'Huckleberry'  .....94K+mi.     &  1994 FLSTN 'OleGranny' .....116K+mi.
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