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[Rhetor]

Looking to change out my stock bars on my 03 SERK WITHOUT CHANGING OUT THE STOCK BRAIDED CABLES.

Stock bars are just too short for me . . . I am leaning forward and getting some hand numbness from the stretch . . .

I am looking for the the talest Wild 1 Chubby I can get on there without a cable change . . . keeping it simple while getting more comfortable . . .

So, what is the biggest anyone has put on an 03 SERK without a cable change?

P.S.  Will I need adapters to clamp down a Wild 1 set?  (I heard they have changed they now taper down the  diameter 1 1/4" diameter I need back down to 1" where they get clamped down?)

Thanks

[SCRM-R]

I put a set of the 8.5" Wild 1 mini-apes on my 2003 SERK with no cable change and no adapter needed.  I think I could have used 10" with no cable change too, but the mini's fit me perfect (I'm 5'10").  I actually bought a set of each, temporarily put each set on the bike and sat on it to decide which set to go with.  I then paid a restocking fee and sent the 10" set back.  They were nice folks to deal with on it too.

[Rhetor]

I put a set of the 8.5" Wild 1 mini-apes on my 2003 SERK with no cable change and no adapter needed.  I think I could have used 10" with no cable change too, but the mini's fit me perfect (I'm 5'10").  I actually bought a set of each, temporarily put each set on the bike and sat on it to decide which set to go with.  I then paid a restocking fee and sent the 10" set back.  They were nice folks to deal with on it too.

What about the Wild 1s tapering down from x1 1/4" now to 1" ATM the center for securing.  True?  Would I need to do, buy and add a stock 1" HD riser?

Also, what about the 10" did you not like, and why did you prefer the 8.5"?

[smkblwr]

Got the Wild1's 12in on my 03RKC and had to get longer cables but i don't remember getting any additional clamps or risers, but it has been awhile since i did it.

[SCRM-R]

What about the Wild 1s tapering down from x1 1/4" now to 1" ATM the center for securing.  True?  Would I need to do, buy and add a stock 1" HD riser?

Also, what about the 10" did you not like, and why did you prefer the 8.5"?

Nope, mine didn't taper down to 1".  I did not buy/need a riser at all; they bolted to the existing risers just fine.  The 10" were just a little too tall to my liking.  The 8.5" fit me perfect.  I attached a photo of it for you.

[Rhetor]

Nope, mine didn't taper down to 1".  I did not buy/need a riser at all; they bolted to the existing risers just fine.  The 10" were just a little too tall to my liking.  The 8.5" fit me perfect.  I attached a photo of it for you.

Great pic...beautiful paint scheme!

I think I will go 8.5" to be safe on the cables...anything will be better than stock for me.

Thanks.

[ROCK FISH]

I installed the 12.5 bars and went with the new cables. Don't know about the 8.5's but had to use the adapter or could have used 1" risers. Just installed these about a year and a half ago. Great bars also like the look

[Twolanerider]

Great pic...beautiful paint scheme!

I think I will go 8.5" to be safe on the cables...anything will be better than stock for me.

Thanks.

Rhetor, the SERKs did use a handlebar that was 1.25" end to end.  That included the center section where the risers/clamps attach.  That was unusual for Harley.   Most are 1".  The Wild 1 bars are the same larger 1.25" OD.  But not in the center.  They're 1" diameter in the center where the risers/clamps attach.

Wild1 offers what is basically a two piece sleeve to fill in the gap.  I don't really care for it.  Price isn't that much different to swap the risers and use the old standard 1" pieces.  As a byproduct you'll have the excuse of having it all apart to replace the riser bushings.

The 8.5" "baby ape" bars won't need cable changes.  The taller bars will.

[Rhetor]

I installed the 12.5 bars and went with the new cables. Don't know about the 8.5's but had to use the adapter or could have used 1" risers. Just installed these about a year and a half ago. Great bars also like the look

Do you have a pic with the 12.5 bars on?

[Rhetor]

Rhetor, the SERKs did use a handlebar that was 1.25" end to end.  That included the center section where the risers/clamps attach.  That was unusual for Harley.   Most are 1".  The Wild 1 bars are the same larger 1.25" OD.  But not in the center.  They're 1" diameter in the center where the risers/clamps attach.

Wild1 offers what is basically a two piece sleeve to fill in the gap.  I don't really care for it.  Price isn't that much different to swap the risers and use the old standard 1" pieces.  As a byproduct you'll have the excuse of having it all apart to replace the riser bushings.

The 8.5" "baby ape" bars won't need cable changes.  The taller bars will.

.

Thanks Twolane...exactly the info I am looking for!

Would you know the part numbers for the right riser kit and riser bushings so I can get them along with the 8.5 bars ordered tomorrow?

Thanks

[kb]

 I just Installed a Set of Wild One 10" chubby mini apes, stock cables. needed to chance risers.This is one modification that I think was worth every dime. Much more comfy.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Twolane...exactly the info I am looking for!

Would you know the part numbers for the right riser kit and riser bushings so I can get them along with the 8.5 bars ordered tomorrow?

Thanks

The top clamps are 55917-79A and 55918-79A.  Rather than the two small separate top clamps, however, use the bigger and stronger one piece top clamp that is part number 56170-83T.  Wild1 recommends a one piece clamp.  Using it will take some potential flex out of the middle of the handlebars.  It's a good idea.

The risers are 56149-88B and 56151-88B. 

If you change the riser bushings you might consider the polyurethane rather than the stock rubber bushings.  Most consider this an improvement (me included).  That bushing kit is 56298-03.

[Rhetor]

The top clamps are 55917-79A and 55918-79A.  Rather than the two small separate top clamps, however, use the bigger and stronger one piece top clamp that is part number 56170-83T.  Wild1 recommends a one piece clamp.  Using it will take some potential flex out of the middle of the handlebars.  It's a good idea.

The risers are 56149-88B and 56151-88B. 

If you change the riser bushings you might consider the polyurethane rather than the stock rubber bushings.  Most consider this an improvement (me included).  That bushing kit is 56298-03.

So, 56170-83T,
56149-88B
56151-88B
56298-03
8.5" chub IRS

And that's it?

[Twolanerider]

So, 56170-83T,
56149-88B
56151-88B
56298-03
8.5" chub IRS

And that's it?

That, and the Force.  Use the Force.

[Rhetor]

That, and the Force.  Use the Force.

Now that's funny!  "Luke, I am your Father!"

[Rhetor]

I just Installed a Set of Wild One 10" chubby mini apes, stock cables. needed to chance risers.This is one modification that I think was worth every dime. Much more comfy.

I am wondering if I went with 10" on the 03 SERK if I could get by without cable change?

Did you add risers and single clamp too?

[Rhetor]

The top clamps are 55917-79A and 55918-79A.  Rather than the two small separate top clamps, however, use the bigger and stronger one piece top clamp that is part number 56170-83T.  Wild1 recommends a one piece clamp.  Using it will take some potential flex out of the middle of the handlebars.  It's a good idea.

The risers are 56149-88B and 56151-88B.  

If you change the riser bushings you might consider the polyurethane rather than the stock rubber bushings.  Most consider this an improvement (me included).  That bushing kit is 56298-03.

Wild 1 site recommended a different clamp....http://www.wild1inc.com/TECH_TIPS.html.

I need all chrome parts on the riser and the handle bar bracket...because of all the chrome on the SERK, zinc would look out of place.

Is the one you are recommending chrome or something?

[Rhetor]

The top clamps are 55917-79A and 55918-79A.  Rather than the two small separate top clamps, however, use the bigger and stronger one piece top clamp that is part number 56170-83T.  Wild1 recommends a one piece clamp.  Using it will take some potential flex out of the middle of the handlebars.  It's a good idea.

The risers are 56149-88B and 56151-88B.  

If you change the riser bushings you might consider the polyurethane rather than the stock rubber bushings.  Most consider this an improvement (me included).  That bushing kit is 56298-03.

Twolanerider . . .


I had an 03 Fatboy. . . got run over on it . . . totaled me for a whule and totaled the bike forever.  But, I do have in my possession the stock risers off that 03 Fatboy (had a stock 1" bar) . . . I am wondering if those stock 1" bar size  risers off the 03 Fatboy would be the same part number as you are telling me to get?

What do you think?  I am getting ready now to order everything in a few minutes . . . going to go with the 8.5 bars just because I cannot get a verification that I could do the 10" ones without a cable changing.

[Twolanerider]

Wild 1 site recommended a different clamp....http://www.wild1inc.com/TECH_TIPS.html.

I need all chrome parts on the riser and the handle bar bracket...because of all the chrome on the SERK, zinc would look out of place.

Is the one you are recommending chrome or something?

There are several one piece clamps.  All accomplush the same thing.  Part number I listed just happens to be least expensive of the many options.  The clamp is covered by the handlebar cover so that's a place you don't have to pay extra unless you just want to. 

[Twolanerider]

Twolanerider . . .


I had an 03 Fatboy. . . got run over on it . . . totaled me for a whule and totaled the bike forever.  But, I do have in my possession the stock risers off that 03 Fatboy (had a stock 1" bar) . . . I am wondering if those stock 1" bar size  risers off the 03 Fatboy would be the same part number as you are telling me to get?

What do you think?  I am getting ready now to order everything in a few minutes . . . going to go with the 8.5 bars just because I cannot get a verification that I could do the 10" ones without a cable changing.

Without looking I don't know if the risers are interchangeable.  Not where I can check for a few hours either.  The 8" versus 10" bars are a crap shoot.  Once in awhile guys can use the taller ones without changing cables.  Usually at least the brake line is an issue though.

[Rhetor]

Thanks Twolanerider . . .

I ordered the 8.5 inch . . . just to make sure I do not have any cables to change.

I asked the tech at Wild 1 and he said I could use the 03 Fatboy stock risers no problem . . . saved a few bucks there recycling!  :-)

The dealer is closed today, but I am ordering the bushings you recommended while I am in there and the $16 clamp/

You saved me some bucks and a lot of headaches!  New bars will be here Friday . . . Foster HD opens tomorrow and I can get those parts and some others ordered . . . time for some highway pegs too!

Now, what do you suggest for highway clamps and pegs?  :-)

[Kodiak]

My stock cables just wouldn't stretch far enough.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Twolanerider . . .

I ordered the 8.5 inch . . . just to make sure I do not have any cables to change.

I asked the tech at Wild 1 and he said I could use the 03 Fatboy stock risers no problem . . . saved a few bucks there recycling!  :-)

The dealer is closed today, but I am ordering the bushings you recommended while I am in there and the $16 clamp/

You saved me some bucks and a lot of headaches!  New bars will be here Friday . . . Foster HD opens tomorrow and I can get those parts and some others ordered . . . time for some highway pegs too!

Now, what do you suggest for highway clamps and pegs?  :-)

...and on a Road King rather than a fairinged bike the job is a relatively simple one too.  Biggest hassle will getting the wires in and out of the bars.  Once that's done the rest is gravy .

[Rhetor]

My stock cables just wouldn't stretch far enough.

Ha!  Ha!  Sharp looking though!  What make and size are the bars?

[The Mysterious Q!]

I put the Wild1 12.5 inch apes on my SERK. I also added Alloy Art polyurethane bushings and a 1 piece riser vs. the 2 singular risers for added strength. I ordered 2 inch over cables but found out that my bike came with 2 inch over cables. I love the look and feel of my bars. I may go taller in the near future.

[Kodiak]

Wild 1 16"

[Rhetor]

I put the Wild1 12.5 inch apes on my SERK. I also added Alloy Art polyurethane bushings and a 1 piece riser vs. the 2 singular risers for added strength. I ordered 2 inch over cables but found out that my bike came with 2 inch over cables. I love the look and feel of my bars. I may go taller in the near future.

Sharp looking!  I went with the 8.5 to be safe on the cables.  Probably will regret it....but I doubt the 03 SERK came with extra cable...why I was hoping to hear from more 03 SERK owners...the ones I heard from said 8.5 for sure, maybe 10" possible with cable reroute.

Already ordered the bushings at Twolanerider's encouragement.

[Rhetor]

Wild 1 16"

Nice look....but I know you changed the cables!  :-)

[Rhetor]

I put the Wild1 12.5 inch apes on my SERK. I also added Alloy Art polyurethane bushings and a 1 piece riser vs. the 2 singular risers for added strength. I ordered 2 inch over cables but found out that my bike came with 2 inch over cables. I love the look and feel of my bars. I may go taller in the near future.

By the way . . . love the look of your breather . . . I am shopping for a new one, but by default have been leaning toward the SE Heavy Breather . . . how do you feel about the Wimmer?

[Rhetor]

Just installed the Wild 1 8.5 inch mini-apes . . . I believe the 10" would have worked without a cable change.  Too late now . . . don't want to undo it all now!  :-)

[Twolanerider]

Just installed the Wild 1 8.5 inch mini-apes . . . I believe the 10" would have worked without a cable change.  Too late now . . . don't want to undo it all now!  :-)

How do they feel?

[Rhetor]

How do they feel?

they don't feel good yet....got the bars on and all wired up,...getting excited....

Put the tac, and clamp cover to put the nacelle back on and found out I got some wrong info from Wild 1 when I called...I had a set of stock risers from an 03 Fatboy in my parts...they said those would work fine with the one piece clamp (HD #56170-83TA)....

Now that the bars are on, I found those risers from the 03 Fatboy I recycled are a little too tall...cover with tach on it won't now settle low enough to meet with nacelle...

Now gotta find the right risers for the one piece clamp conversion.  At a stand still until I can locate a set....and the right part number for the risers!  Just found out 10 minutes ago...was gonna finish tonight.  Not now.

Anybody know the right part number for the right risers?  Oh, of course Twolanrider gave them to me on 6 June (56149-88B and 56151-88B) and I trusted the sales guy at Wild 1 to tell me I did not need them if I had the 03 Fatboy risers . . . I am sure they must be different numbers!

Sorry, Twolanerider . . . I did not take your advice on the risers, and heard what I wanted to hear from the sales guy to save a few bucks. I did get the one piece clamp and the new bushings you told me two and have installed them.

Now, I will wait for my dealer to open in the morning and pray he has a set ot Twolanerider's risers in stocK!

[Twolanerider]

Now that the bars are on, I found those risers from the 03 Fatboy I recycled are a little too tall...cover with tach on it won't now settle low enough to meet with nacelle...

Well that sucks.....

Sorry about the delay.  Man, that's always annoying.  Just checked the Fatboy's riser part numbers at that link sent in PM.  They are a different part number.

I know it's a cynical outlook.  But it's so tough for the parts counter boys or vendors to really know for sure what we need.  Especially after we've started making a few changes.  And, annoyingly, they can get it wrong all too often even when there aren't changes to keep track of. 

All that being so I never ask the counter people or aftermarket vendors for part numbers or assume they'll know anything other than the specifics of their own parts.  Aside from that always look everything up myself.  In the long run it's just easier.

[Rhetor]

Well that sucks.....

Sorry about the delay.  Man, that's always annoying.  Just checked the Fatboy's riser part numbers at that link sent in PM.  They are a different part number.

I know it's a cynical outlook.  But it's so tough for the parts counter boys or vendors to really know for sure what we need.  Especially after we've started making a few changes.  And, annoyingly, they can get it wrong all too often even when there aren't changes to keep track of. 

All that being so I never ask the counter people or aftermarket vendors for part numbers or assume they'll know anything other than the specifics of their own parts.  Aside from that always look everything up myself.  In the long run it's just easier.

Absolutely . . . found a dealer 90 minutes away who is the only one who has the risers in stock . . . they are good people . . . got the day off, so I am gonna drive up and get them . . . just don't the patience today to wait on  an order.  :-)

Man, you have been a great help . . . just should have listened to you in the first place and ordered them when I ordered the clamp and bushings instead of trying to save a few bucks with the old 03 Fatboy risers . . . I am still learning . . . big lesson here . . . trust Twolanerider!  Ha!  Ha!

Thanks, Bro!

[Sundog1258]

Wild 1 makes an adapter for your new bars and the existing 1.25 inch risers on a SE roading, surprised they did not tell you about it. Used one on my 02 SERK and it works fine. WO806 is their part #   
http://www.wild1inc.com/ADAPTERINFO.html

Good luck,
Phil

[Rhetor]

Wild 1 makes an adapter for your new bars and the existing 1.25 inch risers on a SE roading, surprised they did not tell you about it. Used one on my 02 SERK and it works fine. WO806 is their part #  
http://www.wild1inc.com/ADAPTERINFO.html

Good luck,
Phil

Thanks, . . . I saw that, but noted about half the people were having trouble getting the adapter to hold.  Also, I wanted the strength of a one piece clamp . . . so, decided to go with changing the risers and going with a one piece clamp for strength . . . just wanted to do this once . . . and the 03 SERK has a cover for the tach . . . real close proximity to the clamp . . . going one piece with the clamp necessitates the different risers . . . ugly since it is zinc, but it is under the cover anyway.  

$54 for the Wild 1 adapter . . . about $64 (including a discount, $81 without the discount) to go to a one piece setup on the 03 SERK.  Went for the one piece setup.  I need to change to the new bushings anyway . . . had to take the risers off in that case anyway . . . just did not intend to do it twice!  Ha!  Ha!

Got the parts today on a 200 mile round trip; will put them on tomorrow.  Hopefully, I will never change the bars again . . . well . . . maybe.  :-)

 I definitely think now I could have gone with the 10" inch mini-apes without changing cables, rather than the 8.5" inch I got . . . but, I wanted to be sure . . . maybe next year . . . I will try this again . . . go with taller apes, and even tall enough to change out the cables.  

[kb]

I added 10"wild one mini apes to my 08 SERK. No need to change brake or clutch cables.If I were to do it again I think the 12"may be the way to go.

[Rhetor]

Got them on . . . great feel to them!  Raining here through Thursday . . . so Friday will be the maiden voyage!

I think I could have gone 10" on the Wild 1  without a cable change, but these 8.5" baby-apes feel good.

Also in the last couple of days added auxillary passing lights (did not come on an 03 SERK), added the 360 degree highway pegs, a chrome fork lock cover, and added a Power Commander V . . . that is enough damage for now.

But, I am looking for a tailight setup that will make me better seen . . . looking at the brighasslights . . . any recommendations for being seen better than a stock tail light for my 03 SERK?

Oh, gonna do an oil change on Friday and pull my own 5k service . . . change the oil in the primary too.  What are you all recommending for oils?  I think it may have full synthetic in it now.

[Twolanerider]

Got them on . . . great feel to them! 

Congrats on getting it all knocked out.  And glad you like the riding position.  So many just get on a bike and go and never realize how much better the ride can be with just a bar adjustment or change.  Have fun!

[kb]

[quAin't that the truth!ote author=Twolanerider link=topic=63260.msg898520#msg898520 date=1309268403]


Congrats on getting it all knocked out.  And glad you like the riding position.  So many just get on a bike and go and never realize how much better the ride can be with just a bar adjustment or change.  Have fun!
[/quote]

Congrats on getting it all knocked out.  And glad you like the riding position.  So many just get on a bike and go and never realize how much better the ride can be with just a bar adjustment or change.  Have fun!

Ain't that the truth!

[Rhetor]

Congrats on getting it all knocked out.  And glad you like the riding position.  So many just get on a bike and go and never realize how much better the ride can be with just a bar adjustment or change.  Have fun!

Could not have done it without your advice, Bro!  Thanks so much!

Now, I want to light up the rear end and turn the blinkers into some brake lights too . . . thinking about the brightasslight . . . but want to do something to the turn signal bar . . . after being runover 3 1/2 years ago because a driver on a cell phone did not see me, I am looking to rework the rear lights to be seen and more functional . . .

Ideas?

[Twolanerider]

Could not have done it without your advice, Bro!  Thanks so much!

Now, I want to light up the rear end and turn the blinkers into some brake lights too . . . thinking about the brightasslight . . . but want to do something to the turn signal bar . . . after being runover 3 1/2 years ago because a driver on a cell phone did not see me, I am looking to rework the rear lights to be seen and more functional . . .

Ideas?

Have to be a little careful about the various "bright" LED brake and tail lights.  There are some that are very bright (at night) but which for various reasons can't be seen well in sunlight.  Especially with a trailing sun.  One that is, or at least used to be, offered by Kuryakyn is that way as well as a few more generic alternatives.

The current Harley branded piece seems to do pretty well.  The "BrightAss" lights you mention also seem to hold up well in this regard. 

The signal bar gives a few options; but only a few.  You could stay with the big bar and the pancake lights and use the LED bulb kits from RideTime (and others).  They're the only ones I know of that really fill the area in a pancake style light.  Link here:

http://ridetimetechnology.com/glide_lights.htm

Have those in the back of my old Road Glide and have been well satisified.  Have been told they show up well from the rear in day or night riding.  Some LED regular bulbs won't fit in the pankace style housings.  So this is a good option.

If you change the light bar in the rear completely you'll likely be going to the bullet style lights.  There are many different LED bulbs to plug in to those. RideTime has a flat full surface light for those as well.  They're a bit tricky to get laid down flat and get the lens over correctly.  But they do light up very well.  The company also warrants them forever.  I've got their bullet style lights on the back of my SEEG and the fronts of both bikes. 

One downside to the RideTime lights in the front though.  To me not a big deal.  But forewarned is fore armed.

Even though they are an 1157 socketed bulb they really are only on-off like an 1156 type single element bulb.  The running light feed turns them off.  The little logic module built in to them then turns them off when they see power from the turn signal feed. 

That works fine in normal operation.  Running lights and turn signals work exactly as they should and you never know the difference.  The one time the difference will show up is when using the four-way or hazard flashers.  Four-way flashers won't work in the front with the ignition switch in "off" or in "accessory" if using these RideTime lights since the running lights aren't powered at those times.

[naitram]

mungam just spent about 7400 miles behind me with a 12 LED brightass light in all kinds of conditions i'll as him to post a review.

[mungam]

In the dark entering an off ramp and he hit them, I was blind. (kinda scary)
In a parking garage same thing.

Outside in normal daylight, there was no missing when he 1st engages them.

Steve

[Twolanerider]

In the dark entering an off ramp and he hit them, I was blind. (kinda scary)
In a parking garage same thing.

Outside in normal daylight, there was no missing when he 1st engages them.

Steve

Steve, is it "kinda scary" like someone in a cage might panic and run right up your ass blinding scary?  Or a different kind of scary?

[Rhetor]

Have to be a little careful about the various "bright" LED brake and tail lights.  There are some that are very bright (at night) but which for various reasons can't be seen well in sunlight.  Especially with a trailing sun.  One that is, or at least used to be, offered by Kuryakyn is that way as well as a few more generic alternatives.

The current Harley branded piece seems to do pretty well.  The "BrightAss" lights you mention also seem to hold up well in this regard.  

The signal bar gives a few options; but only a few.  You could stay with the big bar and the pancake lights and use the LED bulb kits from RideTime (and others).  They're the only ones I know of that really fill the area in a pancake style light.  Link here:

http://ridetimetechnology.com/glide_lights.htm

Have those in the back of my old Road Glide and have been well satisified.  Have been told they show up well from the rear in day or night riding.  Some LED regular bulbs won't fit in the pankace style housings.  So this is a good option.

If you change the light bar in the rear completely you'll likely be going to the bullet style lights.  There are many different LED bulbs to plug in to those. RideTime has a flat full surface light for those as well.  They're a bit tricky to get laid down flat and get the lens over correctly.  But they do light up very well.  The company also warrants them forever.  I've got their bullet style lights on the back of my SEEG and the fronts of both bikes.  

One downside to the RideTime lights in the front though.  To me not a big deal.  But forewarned is fore armed.

Even though they are an 1157 socketed bulb they really are only on-off like an 1156 type single element bulb.  The running light feed turns them off.  The little logic module built in to them then turns them off when they see power from the turn signal feed.  

That works fine in normal operation.  Running lights and turn signals work exactly as they should and you never know the difference.  The one time the difference will show up is when using the four-way or hazard flashers.  Four-way flashers won't work in the front with the ignition switch in "off" or in "accessory" if using these RideTime lights since the running lights aren't powered at those times.

Ride Time is temporarily out of stock on all of their lights!  

Hey all, how about this scenario . . . simple . . . add a Kury run-turn-brake controller and a brightass light . . . would that work?  WOuld I need a load equalizer?

[Rhetor]

In the dark entering an off ramp and he hit them, I was blind. (kinda scary)
In a parking garage same thing.

Outside in normal daylight, there was no missing when he 1st engages them.

Steve

Thanks for the blind review!

[mungam]

welllllll
Keep in mind that I do ride very close to his bike. in the 5-10 feet range.

Picture a camera flash going off in your face (going temp blind, knowing you are hitting an off ramp you have never been on before and not knowing where the road goes.) - That kinda scary.

Steve

[Twolanerider]

welllllll
Keep in mind that I do ride very close to his bike. in the 5-10 feet range.

Picture a camera flash going off in your face (going temp blind, knowing you are hitting an off ramp you have never been on before and not knowing where the road goes.) - That kinda scary.

Steve

Ok, got it!  Actually just remembered being behind a bike with one of the SmartAss lights on its rear.  Saw it quite well in the day time.  They'll all show up at night. 

[Twolanerider]

Ride Time is temporarily out of stock on all of their lights!  

Hey all, how about this scenario . . . simple . . . add a Kury run-turn-brake controller and a brightass light . . . would that work?  WOuld I need a load equalizer?

The same lights are available from Custom Dynamics.  And they're a good vendor to work with.  But the BrightAss center light by itself would certainly be a good addition.

You'd not need a load equalizer if the only thing being changed to LED was the center brake light.  That comes in to play if you're changing the corner bulbs to LED.  At least that's how it works 90% of the time.  However.....

I'm not familiar with the module from Kuryakyn.  So can't speak to that one.  I always use the modules from Badlands.  And they've got a light module that has a load equalizer built in.  All one piece in the same footprint.  Do that to begin with and you can then do anything you wish with the corners later.

[kb]

I used Harley run turn & brake control. It take about 30 seconds  to install and seems to work fine.

[Rhetor]

Got the HD run-brake-turn module . . . installed with Kuryakyn red bulbs . . . looks great with the smoked lenses . . . now, just waiting on the delivery of the brightasslight and I think I am done . . . well, except for deciding on and getting delivered and installing an new cam! 

This is fun . . . with you all's help and advice!

[Twolanerider]

Got the HD run-brake-turn module . . . installed with Kuryakyn red bulbs . . . looks great with the smoked lenses . . . now, just waiting on the delivery of the brightasslight and I think I am done . . . well, except for deciding on and getting delivered and installing an new cam! 

This is fun . . . with you all's help and advice!

Good to read you're pleased with the progress so far.  It's a lot more fun when a plan comes together .

[CVOJOE]

That, and the Force.  Use the Force.

And some cable  lubricant!!   

[Rhetor]

And some cable  lubricant!!   

I did use the cable lubricant!  :-)

[Rhetor]

Well, I think the WO513 handlebar install on the 03 SERK is almost done now!  

Took a ride with the mini-apes on . . . but my hands went numb . . . I had pushed them forward as much as possible . . . to be creative . . . . so, I cam back last night and took the nacelle, et. al. off again . . . three hours later, the WO513'S were locked down in parallel with the road forks for symmetry . . . took it on a test run today . . . no numb hands!  But, I feel I am going to have to brake it all down one more time on pull the bars back about an inch more, back past parallel with the fork toward the rider so I can get a full hand grip while leaning back . . . it really will be a perfect setup for me then . . .

So . . . ONE MORE TIME tomorrow morning in the home shop for 3 hours of work to tweak those bars again back one more inch ONE LAST TIME.  Not like the ol' Fatboy . . . looseen and tighten bolts and ride . . . those SERK lights and nacelle and tack cover all have to come off the CVO to adjust the bars . . . makes you feel like an idiot to tell your wife after four hours in the basement, "Honey, I got them perfect his time . . . again."  Then take the test ride and say, "Baby, really, I will be breaking the front end down again, I just need to adjust those bars one more time, then they really will be perfect . . . maybe?"  Ha!  Ha

But the good news is, what started as a simple handlebar change out to the WO513s has been accompanied by (as I explained to my wife, necessary to do while I was doing with the bars install) the following-add ons too:

Smoked auxillary passing lights (they did not come on the 03 SERK);
Harleygoodies floorboard extensions
HD 360 degree highway peg mounts
Large Chrome and rubber highway pegs
HD run-turn-brake module
HD chrome fork lock cover
Kuryakyn red rear turn bulbs
Brightasslight BAL-3ST smoked LED tailight
Power Comander V Retro
5K service and parts with Syn3 oil in all three holes (did it myself); and HD cable oil and grease for the neck
Several sets of sockets (hex sockets and torx sockets) and three different torque wrenches, one in poounds and two in inches (gotta   
      have all the right tools)

I convinced her that they were all integral to taking maximal advantage of the new WO513 handlebars . . . "Yes," I said, "you could do only the handlebars, but it kind of all goes together, like falling dominoes . . . and torquing to spec is critical . . . and these other add-on are related to the handlebars . . . it is all about safety and symmety."  She bought it, so I continued to buy parts.

Now, my wife is brilliant, and suspicious, but gave the financial nod since I seemed to be working so hard on it all.  But, I was not quite smart enough . . . I left a critical add-on off.

Now, I am trying to figure out how a SE18404-08 (the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and o rings) and an Andrews TW26 cam set also can relate to the handlebar change so she will let me buy them to install to totally finish the original simple handlebar install.

I need some creative justifications so that I can get those cams and pushrods ordered and let her know that it is a simple install!

So, alittle persuasive help there guys, so that I can get the push rods and cam set too . . . related to the handlebar which was the original domino?  I need a domino for them to get them into in this handlebar project  

Persuasive argument?  Help?

[Twolanerider]

Now, I am trying to figure out how a SE18404-08 (the SE Tapered Quick Install pushrods; the kit comes with the pushrods, tubes, clips and o rings) and an Andrews TW26 cam set also can relate to the handlebar change so she will let me buy them to install to totally finish the original simple handlebar install.

I need some creative justifications so that I can get those cams and pushrods ordered and let her know that it is a simple install!

Relating the expensive new Bright Ass brake light to handlebars seemed a stretch until, of course, the obvious fact that the brake light switch was on the handlebars was recognized.  Then, of course, it's apparent that one goes with the other.

The handlebars to cam relationship, however, is more subtle and nuanced.  You see, of course, that before you readjusted the handlebars the second (and finally the third) time you had not stumbled on to the proper rider's angle for maximum utilization of engine torque.  It's all about wind resistance and the relationship of that resistance to rider's posture as it impacts the drag coefficient's impact by that posture.  So...... (he says while taking a breath) once you've stumbled on to the proper rider's posture for maximum torque usage anything less than that best torgue you can get from new cams will actually hurt the bike's overall fuel efficiency and reliability.  And since you're actually hurting fuel efficiency by not doing cams, with the handlebars in their current best position, the job will actually end up paying for itself in short order because of the better MPG you'll gain when the cams and the newly acquired best rider's torque posture are fully applied in tamdem in application on the road.

It's all in the science.....

[Rhetor]

Relating the expensive new Bright Ass brake light to handlebars seemed a stretch until, of course, the obvious fact that the brake light switch was on the handlebars was recognized.  Then, of course, it's apparent that one goes with the other.

The handlebars to cam relationship, however, is more subtle and nuanced.  You see, of course, that before you readjusted the handlebars the second (and finally the third) time you had not stumbled on to the proper rider's angle for maximum utilization of engine torque.  It's all about wind resistance and the relationship of that resistance to rider's posture as it impacts the drag coefficient's impact by that posture.  So...... (he says while taking a breath) once you've stumbled on to the proper rider's posture for maximum torque usage anything less than that best torgue you can get from new cams will actually hurt the bike's overall fuel efficiency and reliability.  And since you're actually hurting fuel efficiency by not doing cams, with the handlebars in their current best position, the job will actually end up paying for itself in short order because of the better MPG you'll gain when the cams and the newly acquired best rider's torque posture are fully applied in tamdem in application on the road.

It's all in the science.....

Brilliant, Twolanerider, just Brilliant!  It is all about increasing MPG . . . especially when trying to overcome the resistance my fat a** as I now sit up straight!  Brilliant, now . . . which cam, let's see . . . shat will get me that low and mid range torque to overcome that wind resistance more quickly to save on gas.  Thank you "Science Guy!"  Now I can find and install the right cam knowing I am doing the right thing!  My wife will buy that!   

[Twolanerider]

Brilliant, Twolanerider, just Brilliant!  It is all about increasing MPG . . . especially when trying to overcome the resistance my fat a** as I now sit up straight!  Brilliant, now . . . which cam, let's see . . . shat will get me that low and mid range torque to overcome that wind resistance more quickly to save on gas.  Thank you "Science Guy!"  Now I can find and install the right cam knowing I am doing the right thing!  My wife will buy that!   

I love this chit.
 

[fatboybern]

cant get over all the topics on the handle bar change outs although i was frusterated with mine aswell when i bought my bike new 2nd trip out somebody decided to do me a favour and back into my bike only bent the bars thats it i hated them anyways after riding a stock harley set up for 5 hours it feels like somone took an axe to the center of your shoulder blades so she was nice enough to gimme the cost req to fix em so rather than go through insurance i took a check i called the dealer and found the price on the new bars to be 300 bucks they looked close to stk only 2" higher and 2" back wich by looking at her you would never no but when i tried to pick up my bars they told me they never orded them because it req new hydrolic hoses new riser new cover new tps sensor etc and it would cost me 1200 bucks i was cranky as i would have gladly paid for the chrome rather than the stainless and had to come back another day as the parts were not in stk so the end of the story is the bars were great the tps sensor they had told me i needed for the thicker bars had a different part number but was the exact same sensor i even measured it the old one fit into the new bars the exact same just out of spite i chose to use the old one and kept the new one in the box never had an issue but remember boys most of the older fellows think it is more difficult with wires but they are dead wrong its easier you can cut a wire at whatever length you want it harley uses deutsh not spelled rite but whatever very easy to terminate much cheaper than a sticky dirty high maintanence cable

[Rhetor]

cant get over all the topics on the handle bar change outs although i was frusterated with mine aswell when i bought my bike new 2nd trip out somebody decided to do me a favour and back into my bike only bent the bars thats it i hated them anyways after riding a stock harley set up for 5 hours it feels like somone took an axe to the center of your shoulder blades so she was nice enough to gimme the cost req to fix em so rather than go through insurance i took a check i called the dealer and found the price on the new bars to be 300 bucks they looked close to stk only 2" higher and 2" back wich by looking at her you would never no but when i tried to pick up my bars they told me they never orded them because it req new hydrolic hoses new riser new cover new tps sensor etc and it would cost me 1200 bucks i was cranky as i would have gladly paid for the chrome rather than the stainless and had to come back another day as the parts were not in stk so the end of the story is the bars were great the tps sensor they had told me i needed for the thicker bars had a different part number but was the exact same sensor i even measured it the old one fit into the new bars the exact same just out of spite i chose to use the old one and kept the new one in the box never had an issue but remember boys most of the older fellows think it is more difficult with wires but they are dead wrong its easier you can cut a wire at whatever length you want it harley uses deutsh not spelled rite but whatever very easy to terminate much cheaper than a sticky dirty high maintanence cable

Bern, I can tell you were really frustrated . . . hard to believe 2nd trip out something like that happened . . . so, simply . . . what bars did you finally use . . . since you obviously did not use stock ones if there was a 2" difference?    "Sticky dirty high maintenance cable?"

I am a little confused.

[fatboybern]

Sorry that is what happens when you drink and post i was just stating my opinion on the wire or throttle cable most older fellows hate the drive by wire and I think it's great you can easily extend wires and they can be hidden easier and no more stick dirty siezed high maintenance throttle cables the bars I chose were the 1.250 they come factory eq on the cvo I understand the book says they are 2" higher and more to the rear although you don't see it by looking at it you certainly feel the difference

[Rhetor]

Sorry that is what happens when you drink and post i was just stating my opinion on the wire or throttle cable most older fellows hate the drive by wire and I think it's great you can easily extend wires and they can be hidden easier and no more stick dirty siezed high maintenance throttle cables the bars I chose were the 1.250 they come factory eq on the cvo I understand the book says they are 2" higher and more to the rear although you don't see it by looking at it you certainly feel the difference

:-)  Now I can understand that message!  Ha!  Ha!

Yeah, the 1.25" fat bars came on my 03 CVO . . . really liked the look, but those stock CVO bars were just too low for me . . . I just changed out to the Wild 1 513s . . . 8.5" baby-apes . . . did not have to change the stock braided cables and really like them.  Probably gonna sell those stock CVO bars I took off now that they are just gathering dust . . . only have 5K miles on them and no scratches . . . someone will like them, especially if they have a stock RKC . . . not only fat and higher, but they did a nice job on the chrome that year.

I am not against the TBW . . . I am sure I will have them sometime when I buy another newer HD . . .

I am waiting to see what is gonna happen for the 110th Anniversary bikes in 2013 (yeah, I know, the 2012s are about to come out, but not interested). . . hopefully there will then be another anniversary CVO Road King for 2013 models.  I am certainly enjoying my 100th Anniversary SERK!