www.CVOHARLEY.com
Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra Classic® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: moto4sho on September 05, 2014, 06:16:01 PM
-
First let me thank everyone because I have searched the forum and read all of the existing posts regarding this topic. After many hours of research and a few visits to the stealership I decided to go with WO578's on a 2012 CVO Ultra. I think they meet the majority of my handlebar requirements and will allow for some wiggle room in pullback adjustment. I've ordered the bars and need to get ready for the install which is the purpose of this post. I have installed bars in the past on other bikes but I have yet to twist a wrench on this CVO so I am looking for any insight I can gain via the collective knowledge on this forum. I am going to pick up a service manual before I start, but any tips or tricks to make the job easier would be much appreciated.
I have read that on the 2012 the brake line is long enough and the clutch line is tight but with rerouting will work so I am looking for any insight on those and routing.
The throttle by wire should not have the green connector that has to be taken off (not sure about this one) and the rerouting is required.
The bars have to be cut for heated grips to fit. Read that a tube cutter might be the best bet?
The radio need to be removed (any special tools required)?
I know I'll need the service manual, something to cut the bars with, look for instructions on Wild Ones website, but any advice or tricks, any special tools, etc that someone who has done it before with this bike could offer would help me out and let me prepare before I start the job. We are going to Bike Blues and BBQ and I want to have these installed before I make the trip. Thanks again for reading my post and helping me out if you can.
Just an FYI the dealership wants $1600+ for this bar swap. :o They charge 10.5 hours, want to change the clutch line to +4" over stock, change the throttle sensor, and said the new clutch line probably won't match the existing brake line. I figured I would share that for anyone else in my position that was wondering about just having it done. I asked the guy if nothing needed to be replaced other than the bars what it would cost, he said 4.4 hours in labor at $110 and hour so $450ish best case scenario in labor. I think I am sticking to my plan to do it myself.
-
fyi, when you do a swap with the throttle sensor you nee to be careful you don't break the little clip (pin, whatever they call it) when I had the grips changed out the indy didn't put a new throttle sensor on & after a few months I had issues. also have another friend who swapped bars w/o new sensor &had same issues I did. think about a new sensor while you have it all apart.
-
08glide - Thanks, I am going to get a new one based on your recommendation. I really don't want to cut cost in any areas that would create a safety hazard or impact reliability.
-
Search 578 / handle bars etc. There is a lot of posts on the forums for changing out the bars. The main thing is write down the wiring diagrams. plenty of lube when pulling the wires, pull the main fuse. Don't be in a hurry or you'll be doing it again. I also covered my fender, & removed the light bar. get a friend to help you out as you'll need an extra set of hands.
If you have a problem message me & I'll send you my phone #
Good Luck,
Danner
-
Long "T" handle allen wrenches make it much easier. Also be very careful when putting back in, the 4 bolts that hold the radio are very easy to cross thread due to the access.
-
Thanks for the feedback, the big brown truck just dropped off the bars so I may try and knock this out over the weekend. I will post some before and after pictures.
-
Good Luck and Good Choice. I really enjoy mine after they were installed. Better and different ride...
-
So I got my service manual and after going through all of the steps section by section I have a few questions.
At which point in the process do you remove the heated grips and grip position sensor? Is it possible to do it after the old bars are off of the bike or does it have to be done before the bars come off? This is the rough outline of the steps per the manual.
1. Main Fuse
2. Outer Fairing
3. Twist Grip Sensor Jumper Harness
4. Heated Grip Harness
5. Remove Fairing Cap
6. Remove Radio
7. Remove Switch Control Assemblies
8. Remove Bars
The subset of each step is another 8-10 items to remove etc which is fine but since this is my first internal wired bar I've removed and first one with heated grips I just thought I would ask you guys at which step did you deal with the grips and how, on or off of the bike.
Thanks in advance for the help.
-
Ok the bars are off of the bike and I have to say some prior batwing tear down experience would have been helpful. I am in the middle of rewiring the new bars but I have some questions.
1. The clutch line.... to keep the stock line do I need to disconnect it and pull it inside the batwing to reroute it around the radio? As you can see in the pic it is running through the solid radio bracket and I don't see any other way of creating more slack. Just want to be sure before I do it and then have to drain and bleed the clutch line.
2. The bushings..... looking for advice on keeping the stock bushings or replacing for firmer ones. I didn't order new ones so I would have to find them but I sure don't want to button this thing up and then realize there is too much play in the stock bushings with a heavier bar.
-
This wire (turns out to be the electronic key fob lock)....PITA
-
Post some pics of your bike & the new bars .
:worthless:
-
I wish I was done with it, taking it slow. I actually had a setback when I decided to change the switch covers out to chrome while I had the switch housings apart. The audio +/- mode switch busted when I was trying to get the black one off. So I am on my way to buy a new switch $61.45. The cruise switches came off fine but the ones for mode selection that can be pressed in are not solid enough to pry the black cap off from the pin. Bummer
The state of disrepair....
-
No pain! No gain! :nixweiss:
-
Wow what a whippin, but finally done and worth the effort. I ended up changing to polyurethane bushings while I had it apart and I also changed the switch caps to chrome. Everything works so that's good news and the bars are WAY more comfortable, it's like riding a different bike. I kept the stock lines but I did extend some of the wiring while I was in there and it's a good thing because it would have been tight. Here are some before and after pics.
-
before
-
before
-
after
-
Looks Great!
-
Thanks for your help danner. The bike rides totally different and man I just can't get over how much better it looks. If I had a money tree I would have paid the $1900+ (would have been an extra $300 to install the chrome switch caps and poly bushings) because it took me almost a week to get this finished. All in all I probably spent 20 hours and $310 on this mod.
-
Thanks for your help danner. The bike rides totally different and man I just can't get over how much better it looks. If I had a money tree I would have paid the $1900+ (would have been an extra $300 to install the chrome switch caps and poly bushings) because it took me almost a week to get this finished. All in all I probably spent 20 hours and $310 on this mod.
I've switched bars on my bike twice. Always do it mid winter then the bike is never down during riding season ;)
-
You did a great job & saved a lot of money! Now you can focus on another mod with the money you saved. Maybe a Fulsac System or LED lights.
We are here to help you spend your money. Just Ask!
-
looks good, you got more balls than me to do this yourself!!!
another cool cheap mod would be to remove that f'ugly reflector from the lower leg. let that chrome shine! :vrolijk_3:
-
Just got back from the BBQ ride in the Ozarks and covered about 1400 miles with the new bars. I am so glad I changed them out and went with 578's rather than 575's. No neck, back or shoulder pain, but can't say the same for the rock hard seat on this bike, that's now top of the list memory foam. Someone sent me a message asking about fit, I am 6', 32 inseam and 34" sleeve length. When seated on the bike my arms run down from elbow to the grips so no loss of blood flow to my hands.
-
Road Zeppelin air pad will fix your seat problem. It's in the HD P&A book.
-
Looks good. I am getting ready to put the 578"s on my 13 CVO Ultra. Did you have to unhook the clutch line to reroute it?
Thanks
-
Just got back from the BBQ ride in the Ozarks and covered about 1400 miles with the new bars. I am so glad I changed them out and went with 578's rather than 575's. No neck, back or shoulder pain, but can't say the same for the rock hard seat on this bike, that's now top of the list memory foam. Someone sent me a message asking about fit, I am 6', 32 inseam and 34" sleeve length. When seated on the bike my arms run down from elbow to the grips so no loss of blood flow to my hands.
did you replace the throttle position sensor or use the old one. as you can see there is another more previos post on this issue & I was curious as to what you did. thanks
-
Just got back from the BBQ ride in the Ozarks and covered about 1400 miles with the new bars. I am so glad I changed them out and went with 578's rather than 575's. No neck, back or shoulder pain, but can't say the same for the rock hard seat on this bike, that's now top of the list memory foam. Someone sent me a message asking about fit, I am 6', 32 inseam and 34" sleeve length. When seated on the bike my arms run down from elbow to the grips so no loss of blood flow to my hands.
Dont you have the Hammock seat?
No upgrades available on that seat, It is what it is
I like the bars I may be going that route myself
Thanks for the write up
-
I didn't see the questions until now, sorry six months later but I did not reroute or change the clutch line, it is tight but it works. I was extremely careful with the electronic throttle and did not replace it either. Mine had the longer wires anyway and as long as you don't break the tabs you shouldn't have to replace it.