Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Hoist!]

Alrighty 2 hours of research later and another hour to figure out how to put this accurately in text, here we go

Holy crap Tim! You deserve a friggin' award or something!

Talk about going above and beyond! All that to remove a rocker box too! Man, when I wanna rebuild the motor, we're gonna have to set pages aside for ya!

Great job Tim!:2vrolijk_21:

[fxr4mikey]

Tim - I can't say THANK YOU enough for all your efforts and the time you spent in providing me with this information.

in my search for a tool that would fit into this space I've found this thing in JP cycles ..

name = ratcheting rocker box cover wrench
part no = 910-879
cost = $39.99

I've also found it in Drag Spec.  for like 59.99

I've had one in my hand at a local indy shop.  Looks like it will fit, when the engine is drop forward.

I fully understand your description on the toque setting on this one bolt ... I will no doubt just go with the 'feels about right'  setting.

I have had the gas tank off 3 times .. not bad getting it off, but it can be a PIA getting it back on by yourself.  Getting all the wires to lay flat on the backbone and getting the fuel liine connectors past the wire can be a bit of a challenge sometimes

I expect to remove the exhaust also.

I will be replacing all the upper gaskets, new heads, cometic .030 head gaskets and the both cylinder base gaskets are leaking ... so the cyl. will come off too.

I'll be putting SE heads on, woods w6 cam, tappered co-molly adjustable push rods, new lifters and chrome lifter blocks

I'm a bit nervous ... this will be my first time taking the engine apart .....

I'm leaving on Tue. next week for a 4K mile jaunt.  The build is going to happen in Nov/Dec this year.

I will take plenty of pictures and will post up my experience.  Maybe it will help someone in the future, like you have me,  THANK YOU again, SO MUCH  !!!

[FXR2evo99]

Mikey....

UPDATE:

I have been thinking about this tool that you as well as REDFXR2 have mentioned...from JP Cycles....one of the problems with that tool and the cost associated with it, is that all it will do is perhaps "remove" the upper rocker arm cover 3/16" allen head screw but it doesn't assist in actually helping you to secure it via a torque wrench....the "tool" I mentioned above still allows one to get a crow's foot extension.....and I am still thinking about the switching of these "evo" 3/16" allen head screws with the rounded outside diameters to perhaps the "TWIN CAM" screws which offer a 7/16" hex head 6 point outer diameter as well as being inclusive of the internal 3/16" allen head.  If these screws are indeed capable of being the right "pitch" and are long enough then implementing them into the evo rocker arm upper cover screw locations will afford one, another option for following a proper torquing procedure.....it's just a thought.  Although REDFXR2's offering of what he managed to peform to create some sense of torquing procedure is also a viable option.....I am sure I have pretty well
                                                              


Thanks for posting the information from JP Cycles sounds like a tool I need to look into having as well....65% of the battle with these bikes is having the right tools, 30% is having forums like this to gain access to sometimes 30-40 people who may have experienced exactly what you are experiencing and having a population of 1,000's that can offer insight at anytime, it's like having a garage full of technicans, and of course the other 5% is a great digital camera, and taking the time to use it before you start and while doing a project.....
 
Now I have a question have you already purchased the screamin eagle heads? 

By the way the photo above the aviation gasket cement could become your next best friend....here is a thread on why I feel it should be at least:

If you like you can click, view, and read about a thread where I offer up the attributes of the product within the thread you will be able to pull up several other threads as well....oh what a tangle web we weave....lol here you go:

http://groups.msn.com/HarleyTechTalk/tc88fathead.msnw?action=get_message&ID_Message=1344736&ShowDelete=0&CDir=-2

I also have very strong opinions about which gaskets to use when going down to the cylinder base gaskets and which ones to use for the rocker boxes....and where to use hylomar [gasket sealer] if interested let me know I believe I can find the threads where I have offered this information....like I said above I had to go into my FXR2 in June of 05 and my bike has been perfect since doing it.....and at that time I had to do it twice as I had a problem with James Gaskets in certain areas....

Regards,

Tim

[RedFXR2]

in my search for a tool that would fit into this space I've found this thing in JP cycles ..

name = ratcheting rocker box cover wrench
part no = 910-879
cost = $39.99

I've also found it in Drag Spec.  for like 59.99

Once you drop the motor you won't need any special wrenches.  I used a conventional dog leg allen on mine.  I also bought the very wrench you mention--before I realized that even with it, I still had to drop the motor.

I fully understand your description on the toque setting on this one bolt ... I will no doubt just go with the 'feels about right'  setting.

When I did mine, I discovered that fitting a torque wrench on anything but the two front bolts on the front cylinder was impossible.  So, using those two, I marked the bolt and rocker box with a tiny corresponding dot using a Sharpie.  Then I torqued the bolt to spec from hand tight and marked the bolt again.  I then used this measured difference on the rear, inaccessible bolts and nothing stripped and it hasn't leaked since.

I have had the gas tank off 3 times .. not bad getting it off, but it can be a PIA getting it back on by yourself.  Getting all the wires to lay flat on the backbone and getting the fuel liine connectors past the wire can be a bit of a challenge sometimes;

I didn't remove my tank when I replaced the rocker box gaskets.  Since you are going farther, it might be a good thing just to not worry about nicking it with tools or parts.

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey....

Thanks for posting the information from JP Cycles sounds like a tool I need to look into having as well....65% of the battle with these bikes is having the right tools, 30% is having forums like this to gain access to sometimes 30-40 people who may have experienced exactly what you are experiencing and having a population of 1,000's that can offer insight at anytime, it's like having a garage full of technicans, and of course the other 5% is a great digital camera, and taking the time to use it before you start and while doing a project.....

you're welcome .. this ratchet has a lil stubby  3/16 hex bit that comes with it, the wrench is pretty thin and designed to fit into tight places, like between the rocker box bolt and the bottom of the backbone !   JP Cycles online cat has a pic of the wrench, but it's not a good pic, it doesn't show the profile. But as I said, I've had one in my hands at the indy shop, I will have one in my garage before I start this project.

Now I have a question have you already purchased the screamin eagle heads?

 
Yes, why do you ask ?
I have the following parts, ALREADY on hand, all new:
SE Heads (sliver)
Mikuni HSR42
Rivera tapper ed co-molly adjustable push rods
Sifton hydraulic max-axle lifters
Chrome Lifter Blocks
PRO-FORCE ONE - High-Performance Air Intake Assembly

By the way the photo above the aviation gasket cement could become your next best friend....here is a thread on why I feel it should be at least:

If you like you can click, view, and read about a thread where I offer up the attributes of the product within the thread you will be able to pull up several other threads as well....oh what a tangle web we weave....lol here you go:

http://groups.msn.com/HarleyTechTalk/tc88fathead.msnw?action=get_message&ID_Message=1344736&ShowDelete=0&CDir=-2

I also have very strong opinions about which gaskets to use when going down to the cylinder base gaskets and which ones to use for the rocker boxes....and where to use hylomar [gasket sealer] if interested let me know I believe I can find the threads where I have offered this information....like I said above I had to go into my FXR2 in June of 05 and my bike has been perfect since doing it.....and at that time I had to do it twice as I had a problem with James Gaskets in certain areas....

I'm VERY interested in this space.  I have a lot of questions about gaskets, which ones should I use, where, best installation methods, etc.
Of course what I want is NO LEAKS when I get finished, and NO LEAKS for a LONG TIME to come.  I don't what to have to take it apart just because I didn't get the gaskets right.

Regards,

Tim

Thanks again Tim for all you help......

I have read some of the stuff that you posted about the gaskets cement, and need to re-read and better understand it before I start.

[fxr4mikey]

Once you drop the motor you won't need any special wrenches.  I used a conventional dog leg allen on mine.  I also bought the very wrench you mention--before I realized that even with it, I still had to drop the motor.

GOOD information, save me some money, THANKS !

When I did mine, I discovered that fitting a torque wrench on anything but the two front bolts on the front cylinder was impossible.  So, using those two, I marked the bolt and rocker box with a tiny corresponding dot using a Sharpie.  Then I torqued the bolt to spec from hand tight and marked the bolt again.  I then used this measured difference on the rear, inaccessible bolts and nothing stripped and it hasn't leaked since.

WONDERFUL input, Thanks for that tip !!!!!!!!!

[RedFXR2]

you're welcome .. this ratchet has a lil stubby  3/16 hex bit that comes with it, the wrench is pretty thin and designed to fit into tight places, like between the rocker box bolt and the bottom of the backbone !   JP Cycles online cat has a pic of the wrench, but it's not a good pic, it doesn't show the profile. But as I said, I've had one in my hands at the indy shop, I will have one in my garage before I start this project.

It's a Kastar product.  Like I said, I bought one, myself but you're still going to need to lower the motor.  As I recall. the Kastar wrench will barely drop into the top of the allen bolt, but even if you loosen it, the bolt is too long to be fully removed without hitting to the bottom of the frame.  As you loosen the bolt, it rises out of the hole.  In fact, after only a couple of turns, you won't be able to get the ratchet out of the bolt because of the reduced space.  Even if you remove the ratchet, the bolt itself will be too long to lift out of the hole.  It's a nice wrench, understand, but bottom line is that even with it, you'll still need to lower the motor (or drill an access hole in the fram as mentioned earlier) to remove the bolt completely from the hole.

Me, I found that once the motor is down, I could use a standard allen wrench to loosen and tighten the bolt.  I have a nice, barely used one in my tool box.

[fxr4mikey]

It's a Kastar product.  Like I said, I bought one, myself but you're still going to need to lower the motor.  As I recall. the Kastar wrench will barely drop into the top of the allen bolt, but even if you loosen it, the bolt is too long to be fully removed without hitting to the bottom of the frame.  As you loosen the bolt, it rises out of the hole.  In fact, after only a couple of turns, you won't be able to get the ratchet out of the bolt because of the reduced space.  Even if you remove the ratchet, the bolt itself will be too long to lift out of the hole.  It's a nice wrench, understand, but bottom line is that even with it, you'll still need to lower the motor (or drill an access hole in the fram as mentioned earlier) to remove the bolt completely from the hole.

Me, I found that once the motor is down, I could use a standard allen wrench to loosen and tighten the bolt.  I have a nice, barely used one in my tool box.

Thanks .. yeah I understand about the bolt rising out of the rocker box and then hitting the bottom of the back bone.  So I'll just use a reg. allen wrench, sorry you'll have to keep your lightly used Kastar   LOL

Long story - cutting it short. 
I had all my parts sent to my buddy's place up in ND.  We were gonna do the build this past June.  When we got the tank off and saw this situation we were   
so we went to his Indy, who said .... take off the front motor mount and drop the engine down and you'll be able to get that bolt out.
So we went back to his place and looked at it ..... we could not believe that even doing that would provide enough room to get the bolt out.
We had borrowed tools from his indy, inner bearing puller (changing to Torrington) and the Kastar wrench and some other things.
So, after we looked at it we took all the tools back and put the bike back together.
We installed a single fire coil and a compu-fire ignition system ......... I left and finished my trip and came home.
Since then he shipped all the parts back to me here in SC, I've found this site, and now understand that in fact his indy was correct     ...... this is good news, and bad.
Good that his Indy had the experience beyond ours, and knows his stuff, bad cause my build isn't done yet, and I could surly use my buddy's knowledge and experience in getting this build done.  I've never had a engine apart before and it makes me a bit nervous ..... thinking about doing it alone.

[FXR2evo99]

Evo Engine Photo:

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your cursor next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your cursor on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

[FXR2evo99]

I am going to cut and paste from a few threads I have read in the past that have always made sense at least to me:

QUESTION:
(Original Message) Sent: 5/16/2001  
Ever notice that when they start leaking AGAIN that it's in the same place?
Just for the hell of it I put mine on a layth, and guess what.The bottom of the jugs WERE NOT FLAT! Base gaskets compress to 5thou.( acording to the big guys) The left rear corner of my rear jug was 7thou. different than the 3 other corners. the front jug was concave on the left side between the front and rear corner by 5thou.

ANSWER:
From: AlphaSamuel Sent: 5/16/2001  (well known contributer on HTT has sense passed away, but his opinions I valued)
That's what happens when you have castings made overseas by unskilled workers, then ground down by robots.  The Factory has tried just about everything from different gaskets, to 0 rings and still they leak.  I know people who have invested in expensive tools to "square" off the bases as you have done and the damned things still leaked.  I finally gave up in disgust, went back to the basics of assembly of aircooled engines with aluminum jugs w/steel liners, started using avaition gasket cement on all my gaskets and, viola!  No more leaks.  Sure a little squeezes out, but my trusted finger tip and a rag and mineral spirits clean it right off.  It also can be used on bolts where installed into aluminum housings to prevent annealing of dsisemiliar metals.   They will never sieze, nor gall your aluminum threads.  Worked for me.  Samuel  

Samuel refers to "AVIATION GASKET CEMENT WITHIN HIS RESPONSES, IF YOU WILL REFER TO REPLY #5 ABOVE WITHIN THIS "THREAD" YOU WILL SEE A REFERENCE TO THE PRODUCT OF "AVIATION GASKET CEMENT" ALONG WITH A PHOTO OF THAT PRODUCT.

QUESTION:
Evo 1340 : Leaking cylinder gaskets        03-13-2002
My base gaskets were repaired a while back, based upon what I am hearing, should I expect these gaskets to start leaking again, or is the thicker gasket a permanent fix??

ANSWER:
From:  AlphaSamuel  
There have been some reports of reoccurring head gasket problems.  However, I have redone my base gaskets and not wanting to have to repeat I decided to coat the cases where the gasket mounts w/aviation gasket cement, then applied the gasket (james) to the base then applied another coat to the top side of the gasket, then installed the cylinders.  When I replaced the engine at 73K the base gaskets were still not leaking.  I did the same thing to my wife's FXR and she had more than 64K when I changed her engine.   Samuel

QUESTION:
Evo 1340 : Weeping Oil Problem       12-31-2001
29000 miles on the Evo engine and I'm noticing oil weeping at the base of the rear cylinder. . . . . is this the failed "base gasket" problem I've read about recently in one of the cyclemags and if so, what is the best way to fix and with which gasket?  Thanks, Huck

ANSWER:
From:  AlphaSamuel
There are several different so called cures for this problem caused by the heating and contraction of the cylinders to the cases.  HD engines, including the Evo have an oil gallery that runs down through the heads, the cylinders and into the cases.  In addition, you have the oil being slung around by the movement of the internals.  Each time the metal stretches under heat and contracts when cooling some of the oil gets in and around the gasket at the base of the cylinders.  There is one school of thought that says when the gasket gets totally saturated with oil it begins to weep, the weep becomes a seep, then a genuine leak.  You have many gasket cutters that say their product will correct this.  You have the factory "new" design where they now use an 0 ring at the base to correct this age old problem.  And they still leak.  I can tell you what I use.  I install a good gasket coated on both sides with a coating of aviation gasket cement.  I've used this method on air cooled engines that use no gaskets between sections of the cases.  I've used this product on out board engines that have the same basic design/construction as our engines and for me it works.  Others will tell you that some other system works.  I can only tell you what has worked for me after putting more than
180,000 miles on evo engines.  
 
I also use this product on my case bolts, side cover bolts, etc and have NEVER had one gald the threads, never had one seize, never had one deform the threads where they need to be chased with a tap.  Even installed iron bolts into aluminum and returned months later and removed them with ease.  I only know it works for me.  Samuel  

Cylinder Base Gasket Photo & Part #:

EDIT DEC 01, 2010:
Embeded within the photo below is the Genuine James Inc. Part# for a package of 2 JGI-16777-94 Drag Specialties Part# is DS-174116

This particular "METAL" gasket with bead also can be purchased as part of a James "KIT":
JGI-16770-84MLS   Drag Specialties Part#:  0934-0954
Evo Head Gasket Big Twin MLS .040"  (not beaded)
Evo Base Gasket Big Twin  (single layer steel beaded) .022" crushes to .020"

[FXR2evo99]

(continued From Above)

JohnS_  Roasamond_CA is someone I also value with regards to his opinions on EVO's, he too is a well known contributer over at HTT so I feel his comments deserve review:

John was asked a question, I merely pasted the answer as the answer is clear all by itself:

12-15-2005  From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA
I have seen leaks with the paper gaskets (especially earlier Harley paper gaskets), and I've seen leaks with the metal gaskets as well.  I have come to the conclusion that if you want to be leak free until the cylinders need to come off again, then you need some kind of gasket dressing.  I prefer hylomar.  I have had good luck in assembling base gaskets with this dressing, otherwise you're taking your chances on future leaks.   

The hylomar that I use is put out by Permatex, and only comes in one flavour.  The tube says "Hylomar HPF - high performance formula"  item number 25249.  On the base gaskets and rocker cover gaskets, I squeeze a little dab onto my index finger, then squeeze it between my thumb and index finger.  Then I rub it on both sides of the gasket as I'm holding it.  Easy to do with a metal gasket. The idea is that you don't goop it on like silicone.   John S,

From:  anotherhdrider
I buy the Hylomar at Auto Zone. It comes in a tube such as silicone. Like I stated in my blurb...a little goes a long way! I place several dabs around the perimeter and smear it around with my finger. This stuff is amazing for sealing. It is like silicone, but silicone is "RTV", meaning Room Temperature Vulcanizing, it vulcanizes (hardens) at room temp...Hylomar does not EVER vulcanize, therefore it stays sticky forever, and not leave rubbery strings in the engine (that seem to wreak havoc with oil pumps).

(So as you can see there are two alternative options being recommended here, ie: AVIATION GASKET CEMENT or HYLOMAR, both are incredible products and I would recommend using either one, ultimately one will discover that HYLOMAR has been "discontinued" within your typical "autozone" or "NAPA" stores leaving one to only find the product perhaps on EBAY for reference purposes)

QUESTION:
Evo 1340 : base gaskets     05-19-2004

From: bagman  (Original Message)
any suggestions for base gasket replacement? can't seem to make mine stop leaking.

ANSWER:
From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA
Harley's OEM base gasket has never really worked well, and has gone through several revisions.  I have seen many of the "oil fix's" and didn't care for them.  Cometic and James are both good (better than paper for sure), however, I have had some trouble with both (even where the mating surfaces were true).  However, I personally use the James metal base gasket with a thin coating of Hylomar on both sides.  On bikes where I know that there is a sealing problem, this combination has not yet failed. Dry 'till they come apart.

The base gaskets do have a tendency to leak.  I second the use of the James aluminum base gasket, but with one caveat.  I use a thin layer of hylomar on both sides of the gasket.  My mechanic buddy has since stopped using James base gaskets due to a series of "come backs."  However, after I began using the hylomar, I haven't had one premature failure.  One of the bikes that I used this set up on was a habitual leaker.  Couldn't get it to stay for more than a few thousand miles.  It's been dry now for more than 30,000m.  Hylomar is available at most general automotive stores, made in the U.S. by Permatex.
John S,

I FOUND THIS POST IN ANOTHER THREAD AND I FEEL IT'S WORTH MENTIONING HERE:

From: Harleyguy5731 Sent: 3/20/2008 2:41 PM
Evo's have base gaskets, Twin Cam's have "O" rings.  The reason that base gaskets leak on EVO's is that the heads were either not torqued down properly when they were installed either that or the rider does not warm the engine up sufficiently before getting into the throttle.  The aluminum heads grow as they get hot and as they grow the seal the thin base gaskets.  If the heads were torqued down beyound spec's as the jugs expanded they would tear out the bolts.  When a rider gets into the throttle before the jugs have expanded sufficiently, the head gasket will get trashed from pressure being built up in the cylinder, Twin cams tend to require less warming up that the EVO's, however they also do require some warming up to allow the jugs to grow and to seal the "O" rings,  I hope this helps!  Harleyguy5731

[FXR2evo99]

QUESTION:
Evo 1340 : Changing heads   06-21-2004

From:  evorider007  (Original Message)
I'm getting ready to install a set of screamin eagle heads on my '91 Fatboy, I'm trying to think of everything before I tear it apart. My question is about gaskets, the set I have picked out is a James head set, .045 head, .020 base and rubber rocker gaskets. Anybody been down this road? I dont want to do the job and find out I should have used brand X instead. Thanks  Charles

ANSWER:
From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA
I really like the James gasket for the base gasket, the head gasket and the rocker cover (and sometimes referred to as the rocker base) gasket.  There are only two caveats:

1. On the base gasket, use some "hylomar".  It's a blue sticky gasket material (Not like silicone).  Every once in a while I will have a James base gasket leak on me for no apparent reason.  Or on cylinder will seal and the other wont (where no known problem existed before).  So, use a little hylomar and you'll be okay (I got mine from the local auto oparts store.  Just a very thing coating). 

2. On the rubber-like rocker gaskets.   I have never had good luck with the aftermarket rubbers.  They don't always sit in the seal groove well, and due to that will sometimes pinch, or just not seal.  I always use the Harley rocker-rubbers and paper discs for the rockers top screws

Yes, 'tis true.  Remove the front motor mount and you'll have enough room to get the left rear rocker bolt out.  I usually shorten this bolt by just a few threads - makes it easier to remove next time due to frame interference. 
John S.

QUESTION WAS ASKED BUT NOT RECORDED AS ANSWER CAN STAND ALONE:
Evo 1340 : new base gaskets?           09-01-2005

ANSWER:
From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA
I use the James metal base gasket with a think coating of hylomar - works good every time.  However, let me wax philosophic about base gasket leaks.  The oil "fix" says that it's the oil return hole that causes the base gasket to leak oil.  Oh really?  Then why is it that it's primarily the rear cylinder that does it.  Why isn't it more centralized around the oil return hole then?  My theory is that it has something to do with pressure in the case pushing oil in between the cylinder spigot and the case - then pushing it outwards under the gasket.  Since the flywheel spits most of it's oil towards the rear cylinder - that's the cylinder that gets the most oil up in between the cylinder spigot and case (so that's the one that shows the leak).  That's why the hylomar works.  It never hardens and makes it much more difficult for oil to migrate.  That's why a paper gasket alone isn't enough.  But what do I know.  John S,


QUESTION:
From: Johnnyo  (Original Message)
I need to replace the head gaskets on my Evo, my question is will I need to replace the cylinder base gaskets also? I really don't want to break the ring seal since I don't need pistons.

ANSWER:
From: JohnS_Rosamond_CA
My experience with the original paper base gaskets is that it's almost impossible not to break part of the seal when removing the head.  If the head gasket melted (like it's supposed to), then any sideways tapping you do breaks the base gasket seal first before the head gasket lets go.  Think of it this way, would you rather just do the head gasket now, and then have the base gasket leak shortly after?  You really don't want to get any kind of sealant inside the case.  The oil return hole is very small and you wouldn't want it to get plugged up by stray silicone - (it's not that it would starve the engine, but it could significantly slow the rate of oil return to the pump and "sump" it while you were riding.  Anyway, my best suggestion is that I have been using the metal James base gasket and then coating it with a very thin layer of Hylomar.  I have not had a premature leak, and the gasket comes off so easy there's hardly any cleanup.
John S,

[FXR2evo99]

Cylinder Head Gasket Photo & Part#:

EDIT  DEC 01, 2010:

Embeded within the photo below are references to 2 Cometic Head Gaskets which are MLS (Multiple Layer Steel ie: 3 layers of steel), the Cometic Part Numbers and Corresponding Drag Specialty Part #'s are the following:

Cometic:  C9688 (2 pack) 0.030" HEAD GASKET
Drag Specialties:  DS-172086  

Cometic:  C9689  (2 Pack) 0.040" HEAD GASKET
Drag Specialties:  DS-172087

Additional Cometic Head Gaskets "BUT" With No Corresponding Drag Specialties Part Numbers:

C9689-036  (2 Pack) .036" HEAD GASKET MLS
C9689-045  (2 Pack) .045" HEAD GASKET MLS


Genuine James Gaskets Also Produces A Head Gasket, They However Do Not Manufacture A .030" Head Gasket.  This Particular Part Number Is For A "KIT" Which Includes:

Genuine James Gaskets:  JGI-16770-84MLS
Drag Specialties:  0934-0954
Which Includes A Pair Of Each:
Evo Head Gasket Big Twin MLS .040"
Evo Base Gasket Big Twin Single Layer Steel .020"

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your cursor next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your cursor on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

[FXR2evo99]

Rocker Arm Lower Gasket Photo & Part#:

EDIT DEC 1st 2010:
Embeded into the photo below are two part numbers, 1st is JGI-16779-99-X, 2nd is DS-173316

The Photo below is "ACTUALLY" depicting a:
Genuine James Inc. Part # is JGI-16779-99-X which is 1 Pair Of METAL .020" Thickness METAL With Bead Gaskets.

If one wishes to purchase this metal gasket gasket w/bead through a 20% discount HD Dealer having a Drag Specialties Part Number would be helpful,
The Drag Specialties Part # is DS-174203

If one wishes to purchase these gaskets within a "KIT", including not only "these" Lower Rocker METAL Base Gaskets (2), but also inclusive of O-rings for push rods, neoprene rubber (lower, upper, center) gaskets, umbrella valves, rocker cover copper washers, rocker cover fibre washers, etc. then The Genuine James Part # JGI-17042-92-X becomes the one you desire and the corresponding Drag Specialties Part # is 0934-1726.

The second number "embeded" into the Photo below,
ie: DS-173316 "ACTUALLY" corresponds with a Genuine James Gasket Part # JGI-17042-92, this part number is yet a "THIRD" Option by James Gaskets, this is also for a "KIT" referred to as Rocker Cover Gasket Kit, of which within this "KIT" the one piece Lower Rocker Base Gaskets are made of "PAPER", that's right "PAPER", I suppose there are just some mechanics out there that like working with "PAPER" gaskets still, and so thats what that Part Number refers to, it is also inclusive of all the other parts mentioned in the "KIT" above as well.

SO THERE YOU HAVE IT NEEDLESS TO SAY THERE ARE MANY OPTIONS SO PAY ATTENTION TO THE PART NUMBERS YOU WRITE DOWN.

Personally, I prefer the One Piece Genuine James Inc. Part # JGI-16779-99-X / Drag Specialties # DS-174203 ONLY while purchasing the other parts needed as described below.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your cursor next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your cursor on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

[FXR2evo99]

The key here is that all of these parts are OEM as you will read why:

From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA
Some gaskets from Harley are actually very good, while others can be substituted.   Two gaskets that I go to Harley for are the Primary gasket (for the outer primary cover) and the neoprene “rubber” rocker box gaskets themselves.

From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA
One of the reasons that I prefer to buy the Harley rocker gaskets (neoprene rubber rocker cover gaskets) is that they seem to have a superior shape.  Other brands don't seem to be cut quite right and will not fit well into the gasket channel.  So, no I do not use any liquid gasket to try and keep the gasket in place.  If you are using an inferior gasket, you may have to, but when that gasket heats up, you might end up with a pinch, or a split.  Never had trouble like that with the HD gaskets.

This is ME TALKING:
HD has the part number of 17042-92A which is a kit for both cylinders and it does INCLUDE a metal rocker base  gasket for anyone interested (or a cylinder head gasket between the cylinder head and the bottom rocker cover).....the individual part # for this particular metal gasket is now HD # 16800-84 also included within the kit are the  Lower, Upper, & Inner Rocker Cover Gaskets, umbrella valves & gasket (washers) for the bolts which fasten the Outer Rocker Cover for both cylinders.  BUT because I prefer to use either a James Gasket (JGI-16779-99X) or a Cometic (C9865) [Rocker Base Gasket] along with several other listed parts listed above ie: o~rings & washers the kit really seems to perhaps fail it’s warranted value for my application.  SO simply purchase the listed part numbers shown above individually and not within this kit.

When it comes to a 1999 time frame of bike....as mine is which is an 1999 FXR2 I would say that using HD gaskets as John S was very persistent to suggest would be a strong recommendation.....for the rubber gaskets......for the gasket that is between the cylinder head and the bottom of the lower rocker box [Rocker Base Gasket / Rocker Cover Gasket as it is referred to as well] you have the option of the metal one....I purchased the new James one piece metal gasket, James also makes a two piece metal gasket, and I purchased the HD one piece metal gasket....when looking at both of them carefully I made the decision to use the James one piece metal gasket.....and then I took John's advice and covered it with very very lightly with a thin layer of Hylomar....and all I can say is that it is tight and my rocker boxes are not leaking.....

From:  JohnS_Rosamond_CA    08-06-2005
For the neoprene rocker gaskets, I like the OE Harley stuff (including the little grey paper discs under the 1/4 - 20 screws.  For the head gasket, I personally like the grey colored graphite ones, but have used others and been satisfied.  For the base gasket and the lower rocker gasket [Rocker Base Gasket / Rocker Cover Gasket], I like the metal gaskets from Genuine James, but with the caveat that you have to put a thin layer of Hylomar on the gasket.  If you use them dry they will work fine for a while, but it's "possible" that you may have a leak later on.  I have a bike that was a consistent base gasket leaker.  James gasket with hylomar 40,000m - no problems.  You can find hylomar at most any auto parts store.  John S,

Misc Rocker Arm Channel "Rubber" Gaskets, O~Rings, Photo & Part#'s:

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your cursor next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your cursor on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]