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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: hdrider53 on May 27, 2010, 02:03:36 PM
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I just replaced my head gaskets with new SE gaskets which are basically Cometics.
I recently did a build on bike with SE 103 big bore, SE 259E cams and SE heads. I put in copper head gaskets then and they leaked after a couple hundred miles mainly the front head. I then installed these SE head gaskets which are the multi layer type and now my front head is leaking again. Not sure what to do. All the parts were new, cylinders, heads etc and look flat as can be. What can be causing this front head not to seal up? I'm at a loss and I'm tired of taking it apart every weekend. Should have left the damn thing stock.
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Are you sure the surfaces are flat ? what torqing spec/rotation did you use on the heads?
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When they recalled my FXSTSSE 6 times before they swapped out the engine with a 2009, I told the dealer that they were putting the incorrect revision gaskets on the heads, told them to look on this website and you would see that there were 4 different rev's for the headgaskets, so you might look on your repair bill for the gaskets and the rev level, I think the latest rev was xxxxxxx-B or C
Good luck
Richard
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Torqued to 42 foot pounds per instructions with new head gaskets.
The oil looks like its coming out of the front exhaust port to be honest right around the bolts.
I looked up under with a flash light and mirror and it doesn't look like its coming from the head gasket, weird.
The area around the head gasket looks clean and dry but I can see oil around the exhaust flange.
I doubt I would have oil even if I had an exhaust leak. I'm going to clean it up and see if I can find exactly where its coming from. Would you have oil around an exhaust flange if you had an exhaust leak?
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open your butterfly on your throttlebody and see if you have any oil in there. I have never done a head straight to 42 pounds usually there is a torqueing sequence
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That was the final torque I did the sequence just as out lined in head gasket instructions.
The torque is not the problem I took my time and did it right considering it was on my second set.
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The root cause is liners that move in the cylinders. This can be seen when examining the parts. This is a unique 110" issue. I have not seen this with the 113" or 96/88/95" barrels.
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The root cause is liners that move in the cylinders. This can be seen when examining the parts. This is a unique 110" issue. I have not seen this with the 113" or 96/88/95" barrels.
Really, so how do you figure that. So your saying I do have a head gasket leak for sure
and its caused by the new cylinders I just put in?
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You don't have a 110"motor so I appologize I made that assumption.
The 103" as with the others have been trouble free assuming the surfaces are flat, bolts properly lubricated, OEM studs are not pulled from overtorqueing, and the torque wrench is accurate. I have no issues with MLS gaskets and I don't use the copper so can't comment.
The head has to be pulled anyway. Check it for flat with a ground steel bar in all directions. Check the barrel as well. By the way a pulled stud is obvious and doen't feel right at the top of the torque values.
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The oil looks like its coming out of the front exhaust port to be honest right around the bolts.
I looked up under with a flash light and mirror and it doesn't look like its coming from the head gasket, weird.
The area around the head gasket looks clean and dry
Pull the pipe,and see if the port is wet.
If so,you have a bad valve seal..or oil passing between the guide and guide hole in the head.
John
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I cleaned it up so now I will ride it a bit this weedend and see if I can spot the source.
I wonder if I do have to pull the head again if I should change the cylinder studs while in there.
The old ones torque fine but I sure as hell dont want to tear it down again.
I'm also going to use yamabond on the MLS gaskets, cant hurt.
Is it OK to reuse the MLS gasket or should I get a new one?
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Get a new set and replace it if you break the head loose, not worth the aggravation to get it back together and find it leaks.
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Road it and rechecked for leak. Same spot around front exhaust flange.
Let it cool down and then pulled the exhaust. I'll be damn oil all inside the exhaust port.
Then it saturates the exhaust gasket and seeps out. I notice more oil leaked the harder I got on it in RPM.
Wonder if because it only has about 300 miles on the build if the rings still need time to seat?
Wishful thinking but who knows. I also saw some oil in the air cleaner area also more than the usual amount.
SOOOO now what. I have a brand new set of SE MCR heads that have a valve seal out or something else.
I wonder if HD will warrantee the heads and give me a new set?
I did my own work so they will probably say no.
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Wishful thinking again but is it possible that the oil that is coming out the front pipe could just be blow by from the air cleaner. I only see the oil after I run the bike hard. If I go on a nice easy putt no oil. Plus with more than the usual amount of oil in the air cleaner(Big Sucker) maybe its not all getting burnt and spitting out the front exhaust? Probably showing my ignorance but I would sure like to avoid pulling that head again.
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Remove the front rocker box top cover.Put that cylinder on TDC compression.Take a light,and you should be able to look between the coils of the valve springs to see if the valve seal is sitting properly on the guide.
You know the rest. ::)
John
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Its more than likely the exhaust valve stem seal is bad. Looking into the exhaust port on front head
there is black oil deposits around the bottom edge of the valve stem guide and oil run marks around the inside of the exhaust chamber. The rear head looks clean and dry inside the exhaust port. But I have a lot more oil blow by at the intake manifold at the rear cylinder port going to air cleaner. I rode it without air cleaner to see where all the oil was coming from. So I have bad exhaust valve stem seal on front and probably a bad intake valve seal on rear. So much for using all SE parts for my build.
I'm going to ride for now and see if Zonottis will warranty the MCR heads and send me a new set.
Dont want to pull the heads now or no bike to ride and its summer.
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If you are going to do that carry spare spark plugs .. they tend to foul Good luck on the fixes ...
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The newest heads have improved seals from the K-lines they used to use. You can change them on the bike with a "nubs" tool. Available from Goodson.
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If you are going to do that carry spare spark plugs .. they tend to foul Good luck on the fixes ...
Not sure I have a choice I cant just throw away a $780 set of heads.
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hdrider53,
Based on the feedback you have given, I would call around to some of the porters explain what you have and see if someone could do a quick turn around for you.
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I took them over to Nawlins Racing here in Denver. He is going to port them and do a valve job with new bronze guides and seals. That sucks to have to spend another $600 to fix a new set of heads. HD aftermarket stuff sucks, Zonottis wasn't much help either.
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That really stinks to hear they wont do squat for ya. Hopefully when you gt the heads back they will be right. How long they estimating your down time to be ?
Hope sooner than later so you get to enjoy the riding season.