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[RoadG]

Hello
I am totaly new here (from Europe, Slovenia), found it by looking for specifications for SE110 cams...And saw that you guys have serious questions/answers without bullchit like most other forums!
Iam making a build based on Road King Classic 103 frame and engine. Bike was totaled, so only frame, engine and wire harness are remaining from this bike (plus some small stuff ofcourse). Frame, forks, wheels, suspension...is done, I am into engine now. At the moment it is stock 103 MY2011. So I was looking for upgrades, one of the things I got already are SE110 heads (17248-07 and 17250-07). Next on shopping list is pistons, cam, oil pump, induction module, injectors and Dyno ofcourse. I was looking through catalogs (Drag Speciaties - Parts Europe, Motorcycle storehouse and Zodiac) that are available to me (have some good deal on prices)...but if much better option is shipping from USA...
Main thing is, I don't want to overdo it, it will be daily use bike, also for longer week trips and 10.000+ miles per year. But I want to have more power and torque.I was thinking about following upgrades:

17250-07 in  17248-07      SE 110 Heads - no additional modifications
DS173221   PE   GASKET KIT, TOP END, 1450/1550/1680
09290005   PE   Performance lifters Feuling
09280101   PE   Feuling PUSHROD
0910-4640   PE   KIT-PISTON,3.875 BORE  JE Pistons
09250430   PE   KIT-CAMSHAFT,Reaper Feuling 574
27713-08   HD    KIT-INDUCTION MODULE,PERF,58MM/FLT
10220115   PE   FEULING injector 5,7+ g/s
09320023   PE   Feuling - High volume oil pump

Can anyone give me advice if this works ok together or I missed somewhere with choices? Or maybe some better specifications?

Thank you for answers!

[HD Street Performance]

There isn't anything horrible on the list. There are some things that are not needed and one I would not use, that cam. There are many others that suit a build such as this. Not mentioned and vital is the pipe choice. Also not mentioned is how you will tune this combination which is now very far from the fuel  and air requirements of the stock 103.
If it were mine in a limited area of europe such as yours I would just add compression by using a S&S 110 bolt on kit, use a S&S 570 cam, S&S quickee pushrods, D&D pipe, S&S precision lifters, tune with Power Vision pro auto tuner. All the rest of the parts to remain stock. There is nothing wrong with the stock oiling system.
Be sure to check the crank on both sides for runout. Crashes can slip the wheels. Best to find that now first.
FYI you are not that far from Poland, search the forums for a guy named Lukasz. Very talented builder with a full shop.

[RoadG]

Tune will be done by Pover vision with a friend of mine that does tuning on dyno, so parameters will be repaired for this modifications. Exhaust will be 2-1 headers by Kerker (Supertrapp), muffler unfortunatly because of our emission and noise level law (worse than California) will be SE muffler from 2019 CVO.. but just the right side, that has exact same diameter of pipe than Kerkers. Mechanic is Harley technician that really knows the job, he is just not that into modifications and specs... but can put together anything you give him.
I will check your list of parts, thank you. What do you consider unnecessary?

[HD Street Performance]

Everything except the gaskets, sorry to say.
Drag specialties is at your finger tips, just order what I listed and use a .030 cometic head gasket and you are good to go assuming the motor is in good condition without many miles. Then use OEM harley for things like tensioners or any oil pump related items if worn. Check crank runout, important. Foolish to remain at 103" when you can have 110. That has the added benefit of a compression bump perfect for the S&S 570 cam. Plus it is not wise to put new pistons in a used cylinder without a bore and hone, in my experience. So after that why not just buy a 110 kit and bolt it on. The heads flow reasonably well and the cam will help those along. The throttle body, injectors, and oiling system remain stock. The exhaust will be a constraint and you will live with that due to the regs.
This will make 110 horsepower and 125 torque with a high early torque curve. The Power Vision will need to be tuned in advanced mode and timing changes will be required not just AFR corrections.
Now order a solution for the clutch because you have blown through that with this combination.
I prefer a Rekluse but it is not in Drag catalog. There are other solutions. The Screaming Eagle heavy spring (only about $20 US) would work but adds to the lever pull significantly.

[RoadG]

Thank you for your answers!
Engine has 25k miles so not worn out...For sure we will check all components, crank ofcourse.
Clutch is upgraded with new stronger spring and carbon plates and new steel plates, so it should be ok.
I will check your suggestions and thank you for taking your time for answer.
Just a question more...why 570 is better then 585 cam...S&S puts it in 110 power packs?

[HD Street Performance]

Either will work. There is a distinct difference in how they will feel and the 585 is more of a hot rod type grind. It will come on later like 2700 whereas the 570 is a little more smoother at low speeds and it comes on sooner. The heads and pipe especially are in the way of power production over 5000 so I would think the 570 is a better fit, you are not going to be doing anything where the 585 would show its benefit.

[timo482]

i truly appreciate rational advice. 99.9% of riding is below 4500 rpm. many advertisements for parts proclaim MORE POWER, but its at high rpm where the bike will never run.   i always, draw a line on the chart at 4500 and ignore what's above /  right of it. im not racing, i drive on the street. very few mods do anything at all left of 4500.

[RoadG]

Thank you for advices...will take your specifications (with 570) and start with work...when finished I share here results and pictures of complete bulid...

With best regards

Primoz

[FLSTFI Dave]

i truly appreciate rational advice. 99.9% of riding is below 4500 rpm. many advertisements for parts proclaim MORE POWER, but its at high rpm where the bike will never run.   i always, draw a line on the chart at 4500 and ignore what's above /  right of it. im not racing, i drive on the street. very few mods do anything at all left of 4500.

Lots of mods do stuff to the left of 4500 if you select your parts and parts combination correctly.  Big bore will give torque to the left with the right cams.  Compression will give torque to the left with the right cams.  Correct choice of head pipe and mufflers will give torque to the left.  My 117inch 13 CVO King is 110 torque at 2500 rpm, 120 tq at 2750 then 130 tq at 3100 rpm.  Its 138 torque at 3500 RPM and 140 tq at 3900 rpm and stays there or above until 5000 rpm before it drops slowly.

Rare when the bike sees more than 4300 rpm.  Torque is right in the normal day to day riding rpm, very easy fun to ride, not build for racing, but rather power where I need it.