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[screamin eagle]

 Harry, I am already on step ahead of ya. The 103 and the 113 kit comes with the larger 50mm throttle body. I was hoping to get the one piece but will have to wait and see. I am going to see Bill at Zippers tomorrow and willl discuss the roller rockers then. I will let you how things turn out. thanks  Michael

[SneakyPete]

Harry, I am already on step ahead of ya. The 103 and the 113 kit comes with the larger 50mm throttle body. I was hoping to get the one piece but will have to wait and see. I am going to see Bill at Zippers tomorrow and willl discuss the roller rockers then. I will let you how things turn out. thanks  Michael

Michael, my motor is at Zipper's now.  I am building the 120 muscle kit, originally started with a 113, but my crank was .008 out of tolerance and faced the same options as you have now.  I wasn't going back to chain tensioners (had already switched to their 575 cam with S&S gear drive) so decided to step up to the 4.5" S&S crank and build the 120 instead.  I have S&S roller rockers which I went to when I put in the 575 cams and I am keeping them.  Bill Lam is my guy there and is very helpful.  Good luck!

[DCFIREMANN]

I cannot believe that all of these crank assy's are that far out. Mine was out 8 thou also. I got mine just in time before my warranty expired. The new one was fine.

My (and Zippers) recommendation to anyone who pulls down a CVO motor. While the crank is out of the cases send it out to be welded. I think the added TQ with these motors not to mention the pressed crank assy's cause this problem. You will be money ahead in the long run.

I am also happy to hear that most all of you are happy with your auto tune. I still have not installed mine as of yet but will before I get deep into the riding season.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Ironhorse]

I cannot believe that all of these crank assy's are that far out. Mine was out 8 thou also. I got mine just in time before my warranty expired. The new one was fine.

My (and Zippers) recommendation to anyone who pulls down a CVO motor. While the crank is out of the cases send it out to be welded. I think the added TQ with these motors not to mention the pressed crank assy's cause this problem. You will be money ahead in the long run.

I am also happy to hear that most all of you are happy with your auto tune. I still have not installed mine as of yet but will before I get deep into the riding season.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Dawg,

What are you waiting on, you gotta install the Auto-Tune, it's awesome! You will not believe the difference!
On the engines, what's the easiest solution, to gut the HD TC and build it with Zippers components, or just buy a Zippers engine outright?
I keep reading these postings about clearance issues and other stuff it's got me leaning toward buying a complete Zippers built engine when the time comes.


Mark





Pardon te typos and spelling but this loaner PC sux.

[DCFIREMANN]

I would build one of my own, with the help of the crew at Zippers. They build a great motor. I can't wait till the weather breaks around here so I can get some miles on the motor. The AT will go on before I go to Myrtle. It runs great now but the map is not finished. A/F was set but no timing changes as of yet.

I am glad everyone is happy with the AT. I know I will be.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Ironhorse]

I would build one of my own, with the help of the crew at Zippers. They build a great motor.
THE DAWG

I gotcha, so either send my motor, (or a set of used cases) over to Zippers and have them build one. Let them install their crank, bearings, cams, heads, yada,yada,yada, and then ship it back to me for install. I know when I built and supercharged the 5.9 engine on my Durango R/T I had to build a beefed up tranny, transfercase, and front and rear differentials to support the power and torque. Am I going to have to do the same with a built Zippers engine too?

Mark

[Unbalanced]

Ironhorse,

I wouldnt say you have to beef up the transmission, although you will need the supporting cast to be there.   I would recommend depending on the build a better clutch than the stock bike comes with, I would consider a heavy belt vs. a thin belt or go chain.   I would also consider the weakest link theory in any case of building up a motor.

In my case I went with a Baker R2 6 speed with tall first / 2nd gears and .080 6th gear.   I put the heavy belt on and even had a rear sprocket made for chain to go over the ultra hub (2.215).  I had a Zippers 50 mm originally on the bike and recently went to the 54mm and don't forget the oversized injectors.   I also installed the oversized air cleaner as well and Lyndall Zpad Plus break pads and floating rotors all the way around.   My problem now is putting the power to the ground and have the rear tire bite.

[SneakyPete]

Mark,

I was debating whether to buy the parts and have my dealer install or send the whole motor to Zipper's.  So I decided to take the 3.5 hr drive north to visit them and check out their operation.  I met with John K and he was very accommodating, he walked me through his entire operation.  I was impressed by the attention to detail and knowledge of the staff, these guys are really into motors and what makes them go with an emphasis on reliability, that is their specialty.  I am pretty picky and ask a lot of questions and John answered them all to my satisfaction.  I was convinced at that point to let them do the build. 

One thing everyone needs to understand, they are a fairly small operation in that they specialize in parts and performance "kits".  They have limited space and staff to do a "turnkey" job (i.e. drop your bike off and have them do all the work).  They will do it, but it will take time.  Similarly, if you drop off your motor (which is what I did) and have them do the build, they basically have one guy who builds the motors, so that takes time too.  But in my case it is worth the extra wait.  When they are finished, the engine has been heat cycled, ready to install and ride (with appropriate break in procedure of course).

I am doing the whole enchilada, diamond cut heads, cylinders, thermo-coat combustion chamber and piston top and skirt for heat management (may want to consider this option, not expensive), also sent my headers to Jet-Hot to have them coated after Zipper's welded in the O2 bungs.  Also having them back cut my trans. gears and went with their double roller bearing billet trap door to beef up my 5 speed.  Ordered a Rivera Pro clutch to put it all on the pavement and of course the Thundermax ECM with AT.  I'm getting excited just talking about it!!!

Letting Zipper's do the work is the best way to go.  JMHO.

 

[Ironhorse]

Letting Zipper's do the work is the best way to go.

That's kinda what I'm thinking too. I LOVE their auto-tune, so I guess their motors would be good too.
I figured they were a small time "mom and pop" operation because they take so darn long to do everything from the easy stuff like answering e-mail and phone calls, to the hard stuff like making ECMs. What is the "skirt" option, and how does it help with heat?

Mark

[SneakyPete]

That's kinda what I'm thinking too. I LOVE their auto-tune, so I guess their motors would be good too.
I figured they were a small time "mom and pop" operation because they take so darn long to do everything from the easy stuff like answering e-mail and phone calls, to the hard stuff like making ECMs. What is the "skirt" option, and how does it help with heat?

Mark

Mark,

The thermal coating is applied to surfaces subject to combustion temps.  The coating minimizes transfer of heat in the engine so it runs cooler which is important particularly on these big motors.  Also the cooler the motor runs the better the performance.  I had my pipes coated as well which makes the exhaust gas flow better.  That's the theory, we shall see!

[Ironhorse]

Mark,

The thermal coating is applied to surfaces subject to combustion temps. 

Pete,

So if I read that correctly, that would include the inside of the heads, ports, cylinders, and piston tops?
Or am I way out of line here?

I've had pipes JetHot coated and that does make a big difference.

Mark

[DCFIREMANN]

They do the CC Chamber and the tops of the Pistons and the Exhaust Ports. I had it done on Punkin per the advice of Danny and Kitz. I wasn't too keen on the idea at first but after driving the bike a few hundred miles I could tell the difference when I parked it. Much cooler. I couldn't be happier with the decision

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[SneakyPete]

Mark,

Dawg has it right, sorry for not being clear.  The good news it works and money well spent.

[Ironhorse]

Thanks guys,

That's what I thought. My AMS Heads have a thermal coating on the exhaust ports, and I can tell the difference too.

Mark