Topic: Lifters for 2012 FLHXSE3 (Read 11863 times)

luc.who · « **on:** August 06, 2015, 04:44:30 PM »

Getting some lifter chatter on my 2012 SE3. I may do the replacement my self and not use the extended warranty. Which lifters should I go with?

Woods, S&S, Fueling?

grc · « **Reply #1 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:01:15 PM »

S&S

Jerry

SBB · « **Reply #2 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:37:21 PM »

Rooster · « **Reply #3 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:47:44 PM »

GMR has lifters as well. At a good price as well I hear. Haven't tried either yet myself. In case anyone wants to know the Jim's lifters are really noisy. Funny to me was when The lady at Jim's called me and stated, "We noticed the lifters were not the ones we shipped the motor with and asked why. I said a well known HD dealer that sells and tweaks your motors told me if you don't do anything else change out the lifters to HD B's. She asked why. I said they said to noisy and we don't trust them. She just said fair enough.

luc.who · « **Reply #4 on:** August 06, 2015, 06:30:56 PM »

thanks guys, the GMR lifters are 180. There are different versions of s&s, do I want the premium?

SneakyPete · « **Reply #5 on:** August 06, 2015, 07:09:00 PM »

Ghost__Rider · « **Reply #6 on:** August 06, 2015, 10:15:38 PM »

S&S Premiums are money well spent. Quietest I've ever used.

Ridgerunr · « **Reply #7 on:** August 07, 2015, 07:54:56 AM »

Quote from: Ghost__Rider on August 06, 2015, 10:15:38 PM

S&S Premiums are money well spent. Quietest I've ever used.

+1

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #8 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:18:55 AM »

So far the HD 2013up SE lifters are holding up.
I will do a leakdown test of some used ones VS our Delphi premium lifters and report the results after vacation.

Rooster · « **Reply #9 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:44:35 AM »

I thought it was the 2013 lifters that were giving problems.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #10 on:** August 07, 2015, 12:02:53 PM »

NOPE,
That would be 2011-2012 lifters that are troublemakers
The 18572-13 lifter is improved over the past 18635-99C lifters and listed for the 2014MY
The confusing part is the parts microfich for the 2013 MY shows 18635-99B lifters.
My 10/2012 built 2013 CVO RK had Delphi lifters not the 18572-13 and full compliment inner cam bearings
Maybe Jerry can clarify.

Post revised my CVO year added and build date corrected

Unbalanced · « **Reply #11 on:** August 07, 2015, 09:39:41 PM »

+1 more for S&S Premium Lifters

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #12 on:** August 07, 2015, 10:35:06 PM »

Haven't had any issues with those either. They test the same as GMRs or the Delphis I sell. Leak .125" in 15-17 seconds when tested with kerosene, Kent Moore J-5790 tool. The -C lifters (used) bleed so fast in that test basically just spring pressure is all that is slowing it.

Rooster · « **Reply #13 on:** August 08, 2015, 12:58:42 AM »

Quote from: HD Street Performance on August 07, 2015, 12:02:53 PM

NOPE,
That would be 2011-2012 lifters that are troublemakers
The 18572-13 lifter is improved over the past 18635-99C lifters and listed for the 2014MY
The confusing part is the parts microfich for the 2013 MY shows 18635-99B lifters.
My 10/2013 built CVO RK had Delphi lifters not the 18572-13 and full compliment inner cam bearings
Maybe Jerry can clarify.

Wow 11 and 12

Classic Beast · « **Reply #14 on:** August 08, 2015, 04:18:20 AM »

I changed out my 2012 lifters which were noisy and put in the S&S premium, it's dead quiet now.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #15 on:** August 08, 2015, 10:48:28 AM »

The 2 on the right are the lifters that came out of my 2013, OEM never apart.
The one on the left is our premium lifter

Ridgerunr · « **Reply #16 on:** August 09, 2015, 04:15:53 PM »

How do the rollers on SE look Don? How many miles on them?
Thanks.

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #17 on:** August 10, 2015, 07:06:01 AM »

Quote from: Ghost__Rider on August 06, 2015, 10:15:38 PM

S&S Premiums are money well spent. Quietest I've ever used.

Had a CVO 110" in here just recently we built some time ago with a cam of ours we designed years ago, using the "B" lifter lifter upon client request.
Had "the" noise.
Installed a set of S&S Premiums. Silent.
Actually the standard lifter from S&S is very good as well.
$130.00 on those, but I'm sure that some whore is hawking them for less.............just don't let S&S catch you.

Scott

prodrag1320 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 10, 2015, 10:41:16 AM »

we use a lot or S&S lifters,standard on most builds,premium on builds with bigger,more aggressive cams.both are the best you can buy,no need to really look any farther for the more (IMO) gimmicky stuff

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #19 on:** August 10, 2015, 11:31:18 AM »

VANAMAL · « **Reply #20 on:** August 11, 2015, 09:20:20 PM »

Take my word for it you dont want lifter failure! I have s&s premiums in both bikes now set at .130

Aussie · « **Reply #21 on:** September 10, 2015, 11:39:13 PM »

FLHXSE3
Going to change the Lifters and what has been said on here sounds like S&S are the way to go.

Just a few questions as I have not done a Lifter change before.
Do I use Standard S&S or S&S Premium?
Will the Standard Push Rods be Okay or is there a better option. I have no problem with removing the rocker covers.
Why S&S over SE lifters?
And finally what do I look out for when changing Lifters. Any suprises when dismantling anything...

MLCRISIS · « **Reply #22 on:** September 11, 2015, 12:37:49 AM »

Running s&s standard lifters now with a pretty aggressive cam. Quiet so far, 657 red shift cam from zippers. 4K miles and counting. Good units

r0de_runr · « **Reply #23 on:** September 11, 2015, 09:04:37 AM »

Quote from: Aussie on September 10, 2015, 11:39:13 PM

FLHXSE3
Going to change the Lifters and what has been said on here sounds like S&S are the way to go.

Just a few questions as I have not done a Lifter change before.
Do I use Standard S&S or S&S Premium?
Will the Standard Push Rods be Okay or is there a better option. I have no problem with removing the rocker covers.
Why S&S over SE lifters?
And finally what do I look out for when changing Lifters. Any suprises when dismantling anything...

In my opinion, do not get the S&S Standard Adjustable Pushrods. You have to remove the lifter blocks to put them in or take them out. And even then, you must finesse them into place. If you ever want to remove them in the future, again take off the lifter blocks. Also, the tubes that come with the S&S seem to be narrower at the top inviting tapping from not enough clearance to the P/R.

I recommend the Harley SE Tapered Adjustable pushrods.

As for lifters, my S&S standard lifters gave me no problems. Also I like the CompCams 850-1's at &17 each.

HD Street Performance · « **Reply #24 on:** September 11, 2015, 11:39:14 AM »

Quote from: Ridgerunr on August 09, 2015, 04:15:53 PM

How do the rollers on SE look Don? How many miles on them?
Thanks.

8500 miles and they looked fine but leak down is pathetic as was the noise. Mine is an early 2013 and these look to be 18538-99C lifters contrary to what the parts book states. Book states 18572-13. Nope that was a flash in the pan and even book for a 2014 states 18538-99C lifters for a CVO 110. Not sure if any CVOs received the 18572-13 lifters and that said if they are decent. I have not tested these.

FlaHeatWave · « **Reply #25 on:** September 11, 2015, 04:28:19 PM »

+1 for S&S premium lifters

goop · « **Reply #26 on:** September 11, 2015, 09:35:10 PM »

There are 2 premium lifters one with hl2t and one without. Which s&s premium are you guys giving a thumbs up to. Both?

r0de_runr · « **Reply #27 on:** September 12, 2015, 08:25:17 AM »

I believe the h2lt are just limited travel, so not necessary on normal builds.

firehog383 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 26, 2015, 01:02:06 PM »

Do you need to prime the lifters prior to installation. I have heard its not necessary and I've heard yes do it.

r0de_runr · « **Reply #29 on:** September 26, 2015, 04:34:34 PM »

Quote from: firehog383 on September 26, 2015, 01:02:06 PM

Do you need to prime the lifters prior to installation. I have heard its not necessary and I've heard yes do it.

I'm no expert, but I do not prime them. They usually have some thin oil, perhaps kersoene in them. They bleed down quickly when installing adjustable P/R.

Crank engine over without spark plugs to prime them. But don't over do this.

Greg

2BAGGR · « **Reply #30 on:** October 29, 2015, 02:16:50 AM »

Quote from: r0de_runr on September 11, 2015, 09:04:37 AM

In my opinion, do not get the S&S Standard Adjustable Pushrods. You have to remove the lifter blocks to put them in or take them out. And even then, you must finesse them into place. If you ever want to remove them in the future, again take off the lifter blocks. Also, the tubes that come with the S&S seem to be narrower at the top inviting tapping from not enough clearance to the P/R.

I recommend the Harley SE Tapered Adjustable pushrods.

As for lifters, my S&S standard lifters gave me no problems. Also I like the CompCams 850-1's at &17 each.

Which pushrods should you go with?

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #31 on:** October 29, 2015, 06:36:38 AM »

We use nothing but S&S pushrods here, unless the client has a pre-existing set already in the bike.
S&S has been manufacturing pushrods for HD's since the late 1950's.
I believe they have a good grip on that product by now.
Scott

prodrag1320 · « **Reply #32 on:** October 29, 2015, 07:34:43 AM »

cant argue with S&S products,we also use their lifters & p/rods here

2BAGGR · « **Reply #33 on:** October 30, 2015, 01:07:33 AM »

S&S std pushrods?

Aussie · « **Reply #34 on:** January 04, 2016, 05:21:45 AM »

2012 FLHXSE3
S&S premium lifters are $420 a set, bit expensive compared to SE lifters at $320 a set so for peace of mind I decided to Installed the new Screamin Eagle lifters 18572-13 and set them at 2 1/2 turns as per the instructions using the Screamin Eagle High performance quick install adjustable push rods.
At first they were like a jar of marbles until they primed up. Not a lot of difference to stock C lifters however C lifters looked okay at 4500klms with now signs of wear.
Would more than 2 1/2 turns make any difference or cause any damage?

r0de_runr · « **Reply #35 on:** January 04, 2016, 01:40:57 PM »

Quote from: Aussie on January 04, 2016, 05:21:45 AM

2012 FLHXSE3
S&S premium lifters are $420 a set, bit expensive compared to SE lifters at $320 a set so for peace of mind I decided to Installed the new Screamin Eagle lifters 18572-13 and set them at 2 1/2 turns as per the instructions using the Screamin Eagle High performance quick install adjustable push rods.
At first they were like a jar of marbles until they primed up. Not a lot of difference to stock C lifters however C lifters looked okay at 4500klms with now signs of wear.
Would more than 2 1/2 turns make any difference or cause any damage?

I'm no expert but here is what I believe: Some aftermarket cams seems to cause the valve train to create more noise. Some people have had luck using more preload on the pushrods, which changes the PR/Lifter/Rocker geometry slightly. Many others have found it to be the rocker arms shaft as the source of the increased noise.

S&S tech support told me to set it per the instructions and forget aboudit.

I think next time I will just do what the book says.

Greg

CircleRacer · « **Reply #36 on:** January 04, 2016, 04:44:34 PM »

Aussie
Did you pump up the new lifters after you set the pushrod preload or did you just start the engine up with out pumping oil to the new lifters? The lifters should not sound like marbles if you pump them up before you start the engine.

Aussie · « **Reply #37 on:** January 05, 2016, 06:52:00 PM »

Out come after replacing lifters with New SE (18572-13).
Replaced rear lifters and took bike for a test ride to see if there was any difference with tappet noise. Not a lot of difference but a slight reduction.

Replaced front lifters the following day when engine was dead cold and after a test ride notice a change in lifter noise, cruising speed is a lot quieter now. Just a very slight tick at 1800rpm with light load. (Tick was between 2500-3000rpm before lifter replacement, and was the same from day one).

All lifter rollers on OEM lifters looked and spun okay. Could have got more out of them but was not going to take the risk.
Before starting engine after replacing front lifters I spun the rear wheel a few revolutions to prime them up and on start up they were very quiet.

Has anybody examined the C lifters to the new SE lifters on leak down and if the internals are different?
Would be interested to know if they revised the internals as well as the rollers.

cvo1717 · « **Reply #38 on:** January 05, 2016, 07:19:30 PM »

Are the lifters in 2013 Cvos better than the older ones? .I have a 2013 Cvos breakout with 10 000 miles on it should I be worried?

Ridgerunr · « **Reply #39 on:** January 06, 2016, 07:24:58 AM »

2bagger, get the S&S kit #106-6051, http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showcase/motorcycle-engine-components/quickee-pushrods/

Or SE pushrods work good as well.

r0de_runr · « **Reply #40 on:** January 06, 2016, 09:24:41 AM »

Quote from: cvo1717 on January 05, 2016, 07:19:30 PM

Are the lifters in 2013 Cvos better than the older ones? .I have a 2013 Cvos breakout with 10 000 miles on it should I be worried?

I don't know if they are different from 2012's, but I'll bet you a dollar they are the least expensive choice the MOCO could make.

No more difficult than it is I recommend you change them out for a known good lifter like S&S.

brassspike · « **Reply #41 on:** January 06, 2016, 09:26:48 AM »

I'm also thinking about changing the lifters on mine. It goes through "spells" of noise and, although the motor runs fine, I think that I better go ahead with a change. Although the noise and the pressure don't seem to be related, I have lower oil pressure when there is a lot of heat in the engine. I know the oil is thinner when hot. It doesn't drop to zero or turn the oil light on but it seems like it should be a tad higher to move more oil through the cooler. Could the lifters be bleeding off and aggravating this also?
I am also wondering if I need to change the cam plate and oil pump too? I see that Fueling and S&S advertise that their (expensive) pumps will lessen sumping and carryover to the breather? I'd like to keep plenty of oil through the engine without over pressuring it.

quicked · « **Reply #42 on:** January 10, 2016, 06:14:45 AM »

s&s lifters in,problems out

cvo1717 · « **Reply #43 on:** January 10, 2016, 11:13:28 AM »

Can you put the s s lifters in with stock pushrods or do you have to use adjustable ones?

GMR-PERFORMANCE · « **Reply #44 on:** January 10, 2016, 11:42:50 AM »

Quote from: brassspike on January 06, 2016, 09:26:48 AM

I'm also thinking about changing the lifters on mine. It goes through "spells" of noise and, although the motor runs fine, I think that I better go ahead with a change. Although the noise and the pressure don't seem to be related, I have lower oil pressure when there is a lot of heat in the engine. I know the oil is thinner when hot. It doesn't drop to zero or turn the oil light on but it seems like it should be a tad higher to move more oil through the cooler. Could the lifters be bleeding off and aggravating this also?
I am also wondering if I need to change the cam plate and oil pump too? I see that Fueling and S&S advertise that their (expensive) pumps will lessen sumping and carryover to the breather? I'd like to keep plenty of oil through the engine without over pressuring it.

This may be something else going on. If you get an EX valve guide that is creating this issue , the noise coming and going can be one thing to let you know the "why" once hot the valve is trying to stick in the guide.

As for lifters we use the Delphi version that are lets says just like the S&S , , we have tested them back to back to the S&S we offer 1 year warranty on them , CVO member discount I think the post in in the vendor section here 100% made in the USA , Our's will allow the use of the S&S travel limiter as well.. Only some many locations to buy lifters from..

ultrafxr · « **Reply #45 on:** January 10, 2016, 01:11:45 PM »

Quote from: cvo1717 on January 10, 2016, 11:13:28 AM

Can you put the s s lifters in with stock pushrods or do you have to use adjustable ones?

If you've changed nothing then yes you can - as did I when I installed S&S premium lifters in my 110" motor. Of course you must remove the rocker boxes in order to remove and re-install the stock push rods. I had my dealer do the work and in talking with the service manager it was about the same cost for the additional labor to use the stock push rods as it was to purchase the adjustables and dial them in.

brassspike · « **Reply #46 on:** January 11, 2016, 11:44:04 AM »

Must have missed it but what were the part numbers for the S&S premium lifters and push rod kits for the 110?
93-5122

330-0175

Author Topic: Lifters for 2012 FLHXSE3 (Read 11863 times)