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[DCFIREMANN]

If they are the forged SE 113 pistons it is a wiseco..  Now if you had a CP that would be great , but you do not ..  If I where doing the build and that piston "had" to be used I would have them re-coated and run a product that we have been using for some time now. But in short the coating is set to the bore size so you fit the piston into the bore. ( you still have the same piston to wall spec , but the coating takes that up completely.. With that item you could reduce the skirt taper by building the coating up .  This would provide increased piston stability which in never a bad thing . 
I am doing that now with a set of noisy 124 pistons. Ring seal is going away again due to piston design. So I will re ring and fix the poor design on the skirt..   

Thank you for the response. I did leave you a message. If there is another/better route that I should be headed I want to go in that direction.

Thanks

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DCFIREMANN]

If they are the forged SE 113 pistons it is a wiseco..  Now if you had a CP that would be great , but you do not ..  If I where doing the build and that piston "had" to be used I would have them re-coated and run a product that we have been using for some time now. But in short the coating is set to the bore size so you fit the piston into the bore. ( you still have the same piston to wall spec , but the coating takes that up completely.. With that item you could reduce the skirt taper by building the coating up .  This would provide increased piston stability which in never a bad thing . 
I am doing that now with a set of noisy 124 pistons. Ring seal is going away again due to piston design. So I will re ring and fix the poor design on the skirt..   

Steve after our discussion the other day I started digging for more info and trying to decide which route to go. First and foremost I found out that not all Screamin Eagle Pistons are wiseco. The newer ones in fact are. I have a set of older 4.060 Screamin Eagle Pistons for the 110 motor that are STD. When Zippers got the heads, cylinders and pistons I was bombarded  with question after question from them. Zippers is known for building reliable horsepower. I have been dealing with them for over 25 years. I have for the most part been very happy with them and their work. I looked up the part number of the pistons and found they were in fact for the 110 motor but not for twin cooled heads. When Zippers did my head work they did a little reshaping of the CC  to make sure they would work. We also checked for taper in the piston skirt. So I am going ahead with the build as is. As I told you I am looking for reliability and not really chasing numbers. I'm sure the numbers will be there but I just want to make sure they are there for many many miles. I do want to thank you for taking the time to call me back and explaining the problems in the HD pistons. Most companies wouldn't take the time like you did. So all I need now is my lower end so I can get started. I am mailing off the heads and cylinders to Diamond Heads tomorrow morning, and I am hoping to have them back in 2 to 3 weeks. I guess time will tell.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DCFIREMANN]

I now have all of the motor parts back and today starts the assembly process. I am going with TC-24D cams now. Now the only decision I need to make is what throttle body. Should I stay with the stock 50mm and stock injectors or go with the new SE 58mm throttle body with 6.2 injectors. I will be running the T-Man air cleaner and the Fat Kat exhaust. I'll try to get some pics up tonight or tomorrow of the process.

Be Safe

THE DAWG 

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I now have all of the motor parts back and today starts the assembly process. I am going with TC-24D cams now. Now the only decision I need to make is what throttle body. Should I stay with the stock 50mm and stock injectors or go with the new SE 58mm throttle body with 6.2 injectors. I will be running the T-Man air cleaner and the Fat Kat exhaust. I'll try to get some pics up tonight or tomorrow of the process.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

If you can afford the larger throttle body yes do it . it will broaden the tq curve and gain you hp. In the end if you decide to add it after build and tune it will cost you more..   However you stated you are not chasing numbers so save the money 

[Yellow09SERG]

I now have all of the motor parts back and today starts the assembly process. I am going with TC-24D cams now. Now the only decision I need to make is what throttle body. Should I stay with the stock 50mm and stock injectors or go with the new SE 58mm throttle body with 6.2 injectors. I will be running the T-Man air cleaner and the Fat Kat exhaust. I'll try to get some pics up tonight or tomorrow of the process.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

DAWG,

What pistons did you finally decide on and what was the final CC of your heads? Very interested in your build as I am building very close to what you are building.

[DCFIREMANN]

If you can afford the larger throttle body yes do it . it will broaden the tq curve and gain you hp. In the end if you decide to add it after build and tune it will cost you more..   However you stated you are not chasing numbers so save the money 

I have had the throttle body for 2 years now. I bought it new for my 2012 and never used it. I did just purchase the 6.2 injectors. It is coming along just fine. Got a late start and had to knock off early to pick up some parts. I hope to have it running tomorrow.

Thank you Steve. I have taken your advice more times then not.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DCFIREMANN]

DAWG,

What pistons did you finally decide on and what was the final CC of your heads? Very interested in your build as I am building very close to what you are building.

I used a set of STD 4.060 and 10.5 to 1 pistons for the build. I have no idea what the CC's ended up at. Zippers only decked the heads .020 because of the cams I am using. The motor is in the frame and the cam chest is complete and the heads are bolted on. I hope tomorrow I can get it running. I had to go buy a manual today so I can get the poop on how to fill and bleed the cooling system. I am so happy so far with the way it is going. I have a lot of pics on my phone but I'm sure I will need DOOD to resize them for me.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DCFIREMANN]

The Bike is back together and up and running. Heat cycles are done. Now I need to do a fluid change and wait on the weather. I'm looking for a canned map for the SEPRT. I would like to put 500 to 1000 miles on the bike before I have it tuned. The motor sounds VERY healthy even with a set of baby cams in it.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[North Star]

The Bike is back together and up and running. Heat cycles are done. Now I need to do a fluid change and wait on the weather. I'm looking for a canned map for the SEPRT. I would like to put 500 to 1000 miles on the bike before I have it tuned. The motor sounds VERY healthy even with a set of baby cams in it.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

How long do you have to let the bike cool between heat cycles? I was told for break in to do 30 seconds, 60, 90, and 120 seconds, but wasn't really answered as to how cool the engine has to get before doing the next start up/cycle. Should it be like stone cold?

[DCFIREMANN]

I don't let it get stone cold but I waited a while between cycles. I did 19 cycles per Zippers instructions. I can't wait to ride this thing!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[HUBBARD]

I'll have to ask Jody how he heat-seated Maybelle.  All I know is she had 574 miles on her when I picked her up, last month.  I do remember the procedure on Maudie.  Ride 30-35 miles, do not exceed 3500RPM, park up.  Repeat process for 10 days.  'Course that was a Zipper's 120 build.  Had prettty good luck with that Engine.  22,000 miles, trouble free, then lifter imploded.  Destroyed.  Good luck, Dawg!  Hope to see you this year!  Later--HUBBARD

[Unbalanced]

5 heat cycles
Let cool till you can hold the cylinders (ambient temp)

Ride 6 miles stop let cool
Ride 6 miles back let cool

Ride 12 miles let cool
Ride 12 miles back let cool

Ride 25 mile let cool

Change oil

Ride 25 mile

Ride 25 mile let cool

Ride 50 mile let cool
Ride 50 mile let cool

Ride normal keeping rpm's reasonable flutter rings on each ride.  (Let motor slow you down ). 

Change oil again at 500 and 1000 miles looking for metal, color and smell. (Fuel or burning of oil)

May also suggest S&S's break in procedure.



This is how I have broken in mine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SneakyPete]

Just saw the Maudie and Maybelle slayer!

[HUBBARD]

Just saw the Maudie and Maybelle slayer!

Lay down, Pete!  Startin all that chit on a Monday morning..........Later--HUBBARD

[DCFIREMANN]

I did the heat cycles per Zippers. It is a 10 cycle process. I am having trouble getting a map for my SEPRT so I can get some miles on her before a trip to the Dyno. If I can't find anything I am going to switch over to a Thunder Max!!!!! More updates when I get some miles on the Ole Girl!!!!!


Hubbard you may see me this year. I am leaving here in early July and heading to Alaska. After that, who knows. Yea this retired life is tough on an Old Man!!!!!! LMAO!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG