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[North Star]

So did the 113 build in the spring, and when I got some miles on it, it showed P0151 (rear O2 sensor lean), and P0152 (rear O2 sensor high).

I cleared the codes, but they came back. The check engine light never came on.

I decided to put in new O2 sensors since they were original.

It didn't throw any codes for a few rides, but now I have P0132 (front O2 sensor rich), and P0154 (rear sensor open/not responding). Again, no CEL- just the recurring error codes.

I just went for a short ride today after clearing the codes, and just the P0154 came back.

I pulled the plugs today, and they look good, but I put new plug in just in case, indexed and gapped to .40, with dielectric grease inside the boots. The bike runs well, with no driveability issues, and fuel mileage is around 40 mpg.

My tuner suggested reloading the map (TTS). I suppose I could, but I have to spend some time to figure out how to use the TTS, as I only used it once a few years ago to load a Fullsac map.

Any idea what the issue could be?

[grc]

One of the strange things I've noticed about how Harley has their engine management system set up is that oxygen sensor codes do not (normally) illuminate the check engine light.  I guess it shows, at least to me, how serious they really are about emissions compliance.  On the other side of the fence, the auto systems are required to illuminate the MIL (newer name for CEL) when any of the oxygen sensors detects a problem.  Cars and light trucks have to conform to the OBDII standards (On Board Diagnostics) that dictate what information must be monitored, stored, and when the MIL must be illuminated; obviously motorcycles do not.

Jerry

[fastfreddy]

hmmm, mine dose same thing, be interesting to see what you find out, had the PO132 & PO152 coming up randomly with NO check eng. light, had it re tuned after some parts changed out, runs great and did before, looked yesterday and PO132 showed up again with NO chk. eng. light? have you run this by your dyno Dave?  could this be a TTS thing or something that got over looked when the tune was done? i have no ideas as im not a tuner 

[North Star]

Dave said to start by re-loading the map.

[fastfreddy]

at this point i think im just gona leave it alone, cause it runs amazing, if that changes will look in to it

[North Star]

My tuner sent me a new tweaked fuel map, which I loaded in. The TTS is really user friendly- it's almost self-explanatory.

Anyways, did the same loop as yesterday, and the P0154 is back.

I'll call the dealer tomorrow- I know the parts girl well, so I'll see if they can replace the rear sensor that I just got from them, if I convince her I believe it's faulty.

[North Star]

Yeah Freddy, I haven't given up yet and I don't want to have the codes there, even though the bike runs well and it appears that there is no harm done by riding it.

I'm sure with all the knowledgeable people around here, someone must have a suggestion as to what the issue is.

[North Star]

Bump. Any thoughts? Steve, Steve, or Steve? Jerry? Don? Kirby?

I read on another forum that a HD mechanic said to ignore codes while a new engine is breaking in, as long as the CEL doesn't come on?

[Unbalanced]

you might try dielectric grease and checking of the pins at the ecm connector.   In the past there were loose pins and some corrosion.    Any chance the connectors are backwards by that front to rear and rear to front?

[fastfreddy]

you might try dielectric grease and checking of the pins at the ecm connector.   In the past there were loose pins and some corrosion.    Any chance the connectors are backwards by that front to rear and rear to front?

front to back is first thing i checked = good, will take a look at ECM connection and O2 connectors, if it acts up. burnt a tank of fuel or so sense i cleared code and nothing came back...    

[Unbalanced]

Some info I found on the errors that might be helpful, if you have already checked the basics you might try reloading the map then move on to more serious checks of voltage and resistance.  Also is the battery terminals tight?  Good ground ?

•Short to voltage or ground on signal circuit
•Open or high resistance in signal circuit
•Wiring harness chafing/rubbing on exhaust components
•Water/oil intrusion at O2 sensor connector
•Broken lock or loose terminals on O2 sensor connector


Possible Solutions

First start the engine and bring it up to operating temperature and ensure the engine reaches closed loop. Then, using the live data function on a scan tool, observe the Bank 2,1 oxygen sensor voltage reading. Is it switching properly? If so, the problem may be an intermittently bad sensor or more likely a wiring problem. Visually check the O2 sensor wiring and repair as needed. Does the voltage for the Bank 2,1 oxygen sensor appear to be "stuck" and not moving? If so, increase idle speed for 30 seconds or so. If the sensor begins switching after a period of elevated idle, visually check the exhaust for holes or rust near the O2 sensor that could be affecting the voltage reading

If the exhaust checks out, suspect the sensor to be sluggish and replace it. If the Bank 2,1 oxygen sensor appears to be not switching, turn the engine off, and unplug the Bank 2,1 oxygen sensor. With KOEO (Key on engine off) jumper the O2 sensor signal wire to the ground wire. Now the voltage reading should be low (about 0.1v). If it is, then check for a bad connection at the O2 sensor connector. Repair as necessary. If no bad connection is found, replace the O2 sensor and re-check. If when you jumper the signal wire to the ground wire the voltage reading isn't low (about 0.1v), remove the jumper wire. Now check for voltage at the O2 sensor signal wire. It should have, with KOEO and O2 sensor unplugged, roughly 0.5 volts. If it does, check also for a good ground to the sensor as well. Repair as necessary

Check for loose connections, water intrusion at PCM connector, etc. If you have no 0.5 volt reference voltage, unplug the PCM connector and ohm the signal circuit and ground circuits. There should be no resistance nor any voltage. Repair excessive resistance. If you still have no 0.5 volt reference voltage, recheck at the PCM connector. It may be necessary to clip the signal wire to eliminate the possibility of a short or open somewhere. If you now have reference voltage present coming out of the PCM, fix open/short in signal circuit. If you have no reference voltage coming out of the PCM, the PCM will have to be diagnosed for a fault. It may be the problem.

[Unbalanced]

This may help as well.

[North Star]

Wow thanks Unbalanced, lots of good info. I will ensure my wrench does all those checks.

[Unbalanced]

Welcome, hope you get it fixed without having to replace an ECU / Tuner.