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[JamesDeanFLHRSE]

I have a 2007 Road King that I've owned since 2010. I've done some modest upgrades such as CFR slip ons, power commander, 21" front wheel, beach bars. I'm ready to do some engine work. My goal is to improve performance around town and have a "big cam sound" is the best way I can describe it realistically. I've spent several days and hours looking at threads here and on HDForum. I've learned enough to know I need a lot of advice still.
So I started at the local HD dealer in Scottsdale and got some recommendations and a quote. I plan to go to Trask, CLS cycles and Ram Jet Racing (or any recommendations) for advice also before pulling the trigger and deciding who to do the work. I doubt it will be the dealer at this time, it was just a convenient place to start today. This is what they suggested:

585 SE cam kit
valve spring kit
SE Tappet kit
Perfect fit pushrod, +.030
top end gasket kit
10.5:1 pistons and rings.
Dyno tune

This is right from the estimate, I have part numbers if needed.
So school me, what do I need to ask for? Where are they/me going wrong? I have no experience with this kind of thing.
I want to keep it under $4000-4500.
This estimate was $3500

[HD Street Performance]

Great now add pulling the motor and fixing the crank or replacing it with an S&S and cut the barrels to zero deck them if using original rods and crank. Add head porting with new valves, guides and seals. The 07 had shorter rods (a defect) and the deck heights are abysmal so advertised 10.5:1 will not be achieved.
By the way you will be knocking on the door cost wise of one of the new S&S short blocks and porting your heads and the result will be better with the block swap and you gain a timken sprocket bearing in the process.

[JamesDeanFLHRSE]

Great now add pulling the motor and fixing the crank or replacing it with an S&S and cut the barrels to zero deck them if using original rods and crank. Add head porting with new valves, guides and seals. The 07 had shorter rods (a defect) and the deck heights are abysmal so advertised 10.5:1 will not be achieved.
By the way you will be knocking on the door cost wise of one of the new S&S short blocks and porting your heads and the result will be better with the block swap and you gain a timken sprocket bearing in the process.

Thanks for the response. Could you clarify a few things. I'm not clear what you're recommending. Doing the short block along with what the dealer is suggesting? Is this staying within my budget? Is there any considerations with living in a hotter climate such as Phoenix where is easily gets to 115 in the summer and the normal high for August is 105? Thanks again, I'm just a simple guy and you lost me....

[JamesDeanFLHRSE]

Or is there just something simpler you would do?

[HD Street Performance]

The 07 being year 1 of the 6 speed drive train and 96" motor had some unique issues that need to be checked.
Plus the biggest bang for the buck is going from 96" to 103" or even 110". This can be accomplished with genuine parts.

What most dealers will not do on a build like this which is considered bolt together:

1. Clean the rod big ends with brake clean and motor, pull up and down turning the crank, the rods for a few minutes and observe if there is no roughness in the rollers. If any roughness is felt the rod bearings are bad and the crank needs service. There should be no up and down play.
2. Bore and torque plate hone the cylinders up to 3.875 bore to achieve 103" using the original cylinders which are 3.75" not just sell new unseasoned cylinders
3. Check crank runout, sprocket and cam side, personally as I mentioned on builds such as this I pull the motor and have the crank refurbished at a minimum because the 07 had bad press fit and are prone to slip. This can be fixed, I send them to King Of Cubes (site sponsor).
4. Cut the cylinders down to zero deck the pistons in the hole,
5. At 103 with no head work I would run the stock cast piston as the motor will have too much compression with the domes in the area you live and considering the gas quality and the short cam also.

Bottom line is what the dealer is proposing is not a matched group of parts and some very important details are being overlooked.
If you were to do head work then the 10.5:1 CR pistons and a larger cam would be appropriate and bleed off some of the low speed cylinder pressure and allow a higher CR.

Budget? You start to knock on the $ of a crate motor to build an 07 properly.
What they are proposing is just a top end bolt on.

At 103" the other ancillaries that have been ignored or overlooked are the clutch which at bare minimum will need a heavy spring and the compensator which in 07 was a disaster and now the latest revision used on the 2014up bikes is fine. The tune will need to be spot on with timing mods and those pipes are not known as power and torque producers but will work OK.

You are checking other sources, feel free to show them this post and see what their comments are.
I know Short Block Charlie in Phoenix and he would be on the same page.

[JamesDeanFLHRSE]

"The 07 being year 1 of the 6 speed drive train and 96" motor had some unique issues that need to be checked.
Plus the biggest bang for the buck is going from 96" to 103" or even 110". This can be accomplished with genuine parts."

Sorry, But I do have a 110" motor. Not sure how I didn't communicate that.

[HD Street Performance]

OK bottom end same issues
Better to bore .060 over to get to 113".
Same deal on compression, flat tops are your best bet unless head work will be done.
The CVO 110 has some issues with the heads which should be addressed while off. This can be considered reliability improvements and optional performance enhancements.

[Rooster]

Great advice on the bottom end. Your motor will be smooth as butter. It's not cheap but you won't be worried. Most of us wouldn't build the top end without doing the bottom first. Now if you go with say 124 S&S motor, the bottom is already better than your stock HD. The main reason I still have my 07 is the 110 motor is not in it anymore. My advice is do all the research before making your decision. A lot of it is on this site. Also if you change clutches DON'T use the Rivera Pro Clutch as Neutral is nearly impossible. Other than that I can say it has been reliable. Your advantage is most all the Indy's by now have figured out how to properly deal with the 110. Good luck with your choices.

[HD Street Performance]

Rivera Primo has closed their doors, no longer in business.
Some will push an AIM pressure plate and a heavier spring or just the SE heavy spring. The much better solution is a Rekluse TorqDrive. Stock or lighter lever pull. Full disengagement and no dragging. Grab from right off idle, higher torque handling capacity due to their design and added friction area.

[Rooster]

Did not know they closed. I had to add the Gold diaphram spring to the Pro Clutch as it was slipping while trying to tune my 131. I will check into Recluse. Thanks for the info.

[windjammer]

Make a trip to Lake Havasu and see Steve at Fullsac he will give you the best bang for your buck.

[HD Street Performance]

I am surprised being a HD dealer they didn't tell you about a 117" drop on kit. I believe these work on the 07s
More inches and no case bore needed. About the same cost as the 113"
That with head work will get you into the 130s for HP and TQ

[JamesDeanFLHRSE]

I am surprised being a HD dealer they didn't tell you about a 117" drop on kit. I believe these work on the 07s
More inches and no case bore needed. About the same cost as the 113"
That with head work will get you into the 130s for HP and TQ

I asked about the 117 kit, they said it wasn't made for the 07 because it has a cable throttle.
I've also visited a couple of local shops this week. They both suggested just going with a cam and a good tune. One recommended installing a ThunderMax tuner because of the temperature changes here with year around riding. Then if I wanted any more work in the future it wouldn't need a new Dyno, just some adjustments. I'm considering a Woods 777 or 888 and the ThunderMax to keep me under budget for now. Maybe head and valve work now if it stays in budget.

I don't think I can do all the bottom work now. Or am I looking for trouble and should just wait until I can do it all?
Which might be a while now with this hurricane. I moved to AZ 8 years ago. I'm probably going to get some damage to a mobile home I still have near Orlando. Not a good time to be selling that all of the sudden....

[HD Street Performance]

This is irks me that dealers are so ill informed. A local independent that is knowledgeable would hop on the 117" in a heartbeat. The fact that they didn't strongly indicates they are tied to canned maps and have no clue how to properly flash tune a HD.
Run my friend
Find a new shop and one that will do a proper flash tune. I have written at length the shortcomings of the Tmax and in fact the stock Delphi set up properly is far superior for the same reasons the person cited to you. Special tables to enrichen in the heat and control detonation. The AFR curing with parts changes is just that it works but the other features tossed makes it a loose loose.
Sorry to hear about your home in Florida and we are all praying for an OK outcome there.

[JamesDeanFLHRSE]

Sh!#, do you have a link to what you have written. I did a search last night and the reviews I saw where that riders either loved them or where very frustrated with trying to figure out how to adjust them. Most feedback seemed to point towards operator error. So I was pretty sold on it since I know a guy who installs them and deals with them regularly. But I'm still looking and learning.....