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[Ironhorse]

The bike is a 2006 CVO Ultra.

I recently rode from California to Cody and Yellowstone. On the way out the cruise control was working fine. Coming back home from Yellowstone we were running fast, speeds in the 80s and 90s. In Nevada I tried using the CC a couple of times and it started acting up. On three occasions at about 80mph I engaged the CC. The bike did NOT hold steady, instead it leapt forward at full throttle passing 90mph and more. So I forced the throttle forward to cancel it. I tried it at different speeds, 75mph and 70mph, and each time it was the same. Full throttle until I forced the throttle forward to disengage it. After that it just stopped working at all. The red indicator light was on, but the CC no longer engaged. I shut off the switch on the front panel, and turned it back on hoping it would reset. It did not. A full shut down of the bike when we stopped for gas did nothing.

Any troubleshooting or diagnostic suggestions?
Is there a link to CC troubleshooting?

Thanks!

Mark

[GregKhougaz]

Mark, go to YouTube and search, "how to troubleshoot Harley-Davidson cruise control." There are several troubleshooting videos.

[Twolanerider]

Is it the 2006 Mark?  If so it might be the stepper cable.

I've had a cable go bad and the behavior wasn't too dissimilar and made sense to the way the system works.

If you're riding flat and level the throttle position stay's mostly constant.  Climb a grade and the throttle  position has to advance slightly to maintain the same speed. 

If that process happens, even slightly, but repeatedly and the cable is sticking inside the housing your speed will increase.  If you turn the cruise control off electronically the throttle is still engaged mechanically by the cable.  If you'd had to advance the throttle a bit to climb a grade and then were going down a grade a bit immediately following you could find yourself accelerating rather dramatically.  The only way to remove the advanced throttle position would be to manually twist the grip back taking advantage of the idle cable's return function to pull it all back home.

The cruise control cable is cheap to buy and easy to change.  A worthwhile parts swap compared to some more expensive or difficult to try options.  Good luck on getting it sorted.

[*58Vette]

Here is something that might help.

If you do the cruise control test it will give you a code that means the roll off switch is not working also.....
 NOTE: Some speedometer calibrators like the Dakota digital will knock out the cruise control on the 08 fly by wire bikes.

 Here is how to pull the cruise control dropout codes and what they mean. They tell you why the cruise control disengaged. The module stores the last 8 dropout codes starting with the most recent dropout.

 To invoke the readout:

 Engine OFF, cruise switch OFF

 Push cruise set/resume switch to SET and HOLD it there while switching to IGNITION (do NOT start engine)

 RELEASE the set/resume switch and watch the cruise enabled lamp....it will flash out 3 digits encoded as a series of pulses in the following pattern >>> the first digit is string of 1/4 second flashes, then a one second pause; then the second digit is string of 1/4 second flashes, then a one second pause; then the third digit is string of 1/4 second flashes and it stops.....write down the number of flashes in each of the three segments and you will get a three digit code

 if you want to verify the flashes you just saw, then push the switch to RESUME and it will repeat the three digit code that you just read.....

 to get the next three digit code that is stored, push the switch to SET and three more digits will be pulsed out in the same format as above.....continue advancing the codes by toggling to the SET (or verify them using RESUME)

 there are 8 codes stored and once the buffer is empty, the cruise engaged lamp stays on solid.........if you want to repeat all 8 again, then toggle the switch to SET

 to exit the readout mode switch the ignition to OFF

 You now have 8 three-digit codes written on your arm....their meaning is:

 111 No Codes, memory clear
 112 Throttle roll off
 113 Cruise switch turned off
 122 frt or rear brake applied
 211 Coast interval longer than 6 seconds (S/C button)
 212 speed dropped below 30 mph while s/c button held
 213 speed below 26 mph or above 90 mph
 221 speed drops more than 15 mph below speed set point
 222 speed decrease exceeds 20 mph per second
 223 vehicle speed sensor input
 231 rpm exceeds 5000
 232 tach signal lost
 242 high rate of engine rpm change (e.g., hit ice or slipping tire)
 341 low voltage
 internal failure if code 311, 312, 313, 321, 323, 331, 332, 333, 342, 343, 351, 352, 353, 361, 362, 363, 371, 423, 432, 777