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[Twolanerider]

The dyes are nice, I agree.  Mfg recommendation is good stuff, take advantage of their R&D.  Any difference between the Barnett friction materials and OE?

Can't answer the questions on a materials properties analysis of the Barnett product.  The question did force me to recall an interesting incident that happened at the same time I got their recommendation to use the B&M Trick Shift.

First time I'd ever used one of the Scorpion clutches.  This was 10 years ago ( ish ).  Had everything all done, got on the bike to start it up the first time and, wam bam thank you m'am, the engine fires and the bike lurches forward in the garage to a point within a foot of another bike there and a few other things I'd have preferred not to run over. 

I was never sure whether I hit the kill switch or clamping front and rear brakes killed the engine.  It all happened rather suddenly, abruptly and without common courtesy from the motorcycle.  Just knew that somehow I'd managed to get it stopped and shut down before any damage actually occurred.

After a moment's reflection realized the clutch was totally locked up.  That the slightest release of the clutch lever had sent me on the merry little 8-10 foot ride across a two car garage.  Took it back down to inspect and had normal travel at the clutch.  Was then I called Barnett and was told that with their then current clutch packs they were having an issue synthetic motor oils locking up the clutch packs.  They'd be sending out a new set of clutches ASAP and, by the way, we suggest using B&M Trick Shift.

Relatively certain that somewhere in that process I pulled my shorts out of my ass too. 

[J.D.]

Yeoooowwwww.  Never heard of anything like that before.

[Twolanerider]

Yeoooowwwww.  Never heard of anything like that before.

Thinking about this after writing the previous post had to wonder if my recollection now was much different than what I'd thought at the time.  Turns out it was really close to ten years ago (not bad memory for an old fart) and the recall now was pretty darn close to what I shared then.  Was surprised I even found the old thread  .


https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=21262.0

[J.D.]

Yeah those are definitely situations that can destroy a good pair of undershorts.  Nice job avoiding what sounds like could have been a really bad outcome.

[longlast]

I find these oil discussion interesting. Being a new kid on the block don't have any experience to offer on the subject.
I've been doing some research on some of the mentioned oils such as ATF in primary - I came across  B&M vs ATF+4 seems it's a love hate preference.
Because I'm intending to go with ATF synthetic to eliminate my clutch drag but I was being considered about the compensator having adequate lubrication. Some have said by using ATF the compensator has been sacrificed then I found that buy adding  Lubegard Platinum Automatic Transmission ATF Fluid Protectant it seems it'll give the compensator the lubrication protection required.
A short part of the write up on Lubegard
 For use with any specified ATF recommended by the car manufacturer, such as OEM types and DEXRON®/MERCON® ATF’s.

(Except Ford Type F ATF or CVT applications)

Enhances DEXRON® III, VI/MERCON® ATF’s to perform like MERCON® V ATF

Enhances DEXRON® III, VI/MERCON® , V ATF to perform like a highly friction modified ATF,

Prevents overheating
Dramatically reduces friction & wear on metal parts and internal components
Will not alter the crucial sulfur balance in your transmission fluid
Will not harm yellow metals
Inhibits fluid oxidation and foaming
Contains patented Synogol TMS Technology a synthetic molecule that tightens the shift cycle without losing the friction modification at lockup, which eliminates shudder
Eliminates torque converter shudders
Ensures proper shifts
Frees stuck valves & keeps them free
Extends fluid change intervals
Protects & restores seals for optimum performance
Conditions & restores seals and o-ring

I'm trying to make my bike easier to ride smoother shifting easier to push backwards (not fighting clutch drag) without popping into"N" first.
Once I've changed over to the oils I'm going to use then I'll have some input. Till then I'm a greenhorn.
So for for me Yes these discussions along with all others are a great help.

What I can say, I've been using this oil in all three holes and it works well in the motor

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-7100-4T-20W-50-Motorcycle-Engine-Oil-Fully-Synthetic-20W50-4-Litres-4L/172989225333?epid=1408013326&hash=item2846f61975:g:fbwAAMXQVERS-lYK

This is the dip two days ago at 3k oil consumption is down compared to HD's oil I was using and it's cleaner

[J.D.]

I'll be interested in hearing how your new primary potion performs.

That Motul engine oil is good.

[J.D.]

Here's an updated chart for those interested in this type of data:

[Rooster]

Maybe sulfer is the smell I get when the bike is really hot. I use Amsoil for oil, Redline MTL for primary and Redline shockproof for tranny. I tried ATF in the primary as suggested by Rivera and found it a little noisy and did nothing for clutch drag and finding Neutral.

[J.D.]

I've found I like the clutch feel best using the MA2 spec synthetic motor oils.  I bounce between 10w-40 and 20w-50 depending on what is available and cheapest when I need it.  Just got a case of the 10w-50 and will use this for the first time next change.  Viscosity data would suggest a good oil, for my criteria anyway.

[longlast]

Maybe sulfer is the smell I get when the bike is really hot. I use Amsoil for oil, Redline MTL for primary and Redline shockproof for tranny. I tried ATF in the primary as suggested by Rivera and found it a little noisy and did nothing for clutch drag and finding Neutral.

I'm using the ATF in the primary  but I'm also adding  1 1/2 oz of ATF  Lubeguard platinum high performance additive to it as well. For me I find shifted and Neutral a lot better.
The additive  would be playing a role with it.

I forgot to mention,  I'm sure the Hayden M6 tensioner is playing a role with it all as well.