Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[HWYMAN1]

Gary,
i appreciate the reassurance. I guess the real problem is that I have no confidence in the tuners. The first post mod was done by dealer, i don't know much dyno tuning other than what i have learned here. I believe that the dealer downloaded a pre set map , and did it not run right. So when took to another after market shop, they have little experience with SERT and use mostly PCIII (they did not try to sell me a PCIII, but told with the PC and dyno they could do it for under $500, but would take 10 to 12 hrs to do a SERT map, making the price a wash).These guys actually took a lot of time talking to me, and got the numbers I talked about ( i will did out paper work and take to office and scan in the dyno sheets, may be everyone can then see the numbers include AF ratios). Maybe my expectations were too high and I am worhsipping at the alter of the almighty numbers game, but I guess to stroke my XY ego i will try to get bike to Jim at bragging rights in clermont, fl for the best two out three ( he is mentioned in high regard on this site)  John

[HWYMAN1]

Beagle has a set of Hookers that might be offered up cheaply to help out.....

Don,
after reading his thread it is what got me looking into the performance numbers in the first place!!! ( So i guess i should blame him for this recent stretch of paranoia ) john

[SBB]

Beagle has a set of Hookers that might be offered up cheaply to help out.....

T/L

Just glad you said a set instead of a pair!

[Rhino]

Hello All,

Limiting my post due to serious computer issues. The new one here is Vista etc, and spending hours tuning it. I am not happy with BillyGates.  Anyway, 575, you gotta rip the throttle more from a stop, and learn how to feather the clutch differently than stock cam.  1/2 second later, your flyin in the high up torque range.  It is faster, but different from the get go, AND the shift points. You have to learn how to ride this cam, but it is rewarding once you figure it out.  Nothing like it in 4th, over 3500 it sets you back in the seat a bit more than stock, and keeps on going. Let's see 5th was 123mph, or was it 6th on I-4 yesterday........was going all the way till I was running out of rooom. But it was still pulling. Scary at them thar speeds when it wiggles.

PS:  I am faster than AJ now, read above.

Rhino(a575wasstillnotgoodenoughwhatwillhedonext)

[kojak]

103-RK,
You are on the right track about mid-range torque. On a touring bike, I like my tq to be in a flat, stable curve by 2500 rpm. You will do most of your riding +/- 500 rpm around that area. Your bike should not be lugging at 2000 rpm unless you are on a steep incline etc. It really doesnt matter what your tq is at 3500-5000 rpm for all practical purposes. What happens with cams that have higher lift/duration than stock, the overlap between intake and exhaust valves will increase and will rob your engine of power unless you increase the compression to combat reversion.

[103_RK]

Kojak, that is where I was thinking the torque needed to be as well.  Apparently there is so much gain in the 3000 rpm range that it is worth the tradeoff.  My bike runs great with the stock cams.  I have the feul injection dialed in (I bought a twinscan II+ unit to use O2 sensors and get it as good as I can get it).  I thought about the T-Max setup but thought I'd still like to have it dialed in with the SERT system as this would be more likely to not void my warrenty.  I'm still deciding about the cam.  THe .002 runout measurment concerns me as well.  I wouldn't want to split the cases and spend the extra monsy on a bike that runs great.  I have time, there is no rush, so I will take my time and not rush into a cam change.  I can always buy a new tesioner and check it for wear every year or two.

[Unbalanced]

103_RK,

I am interested in how your going about tuning your bike, can you explain for me how your going to setup your A/F and volumetrics to do your tune? 

An example you have set all your air fuel in advanced mode to 13.7 to one and are getting your volumetrics correct so that you can then go back to your stock map by setting a baseline after you have changed out the volumetrics to the right ones.

Another example is you took the stock map set all a/f to where you want it to be and are going to run the bike this way?

Thanks,

[103_RK]

Unbalanced, I set the afr to where I want to run the bike.  I made several runs with the Twinscan II+ connected.  I used the twinscan II software to look at the required VE adjustments for the 5 or so averaged runs.  The software allows you to look at multiple runs at the same time.  I then made the reccommended VE table corrections and the bike runs great.  Better than it ever has.  I did not do the 1/4 mile type runs because that is not how I normally run my bike and it seems to run great wide open anyway.  I liked the idea of having O2 sensors to indicate the actual AFR so that using the SERT to make the adjustments, I feel I would have a better chance at getting problems fixed under my warrenty.  If I later go with the T-Max, I can remove it and reinstall the stock ECM.  I know I am probably kidding myself about the warrenty but I purchased a 7 year $1300 one and I want to use it if I have problems.

[Unbalanced]

103_RK,

So to understand better what your doing your going cell by cell and checking what the A/F is so that you can eliminate the unstable data and choosing 5 samples or 15 samples to get a better avg for your output and are you using a manual afr to go against or putting in a target afr ?

Glad your happy with how it is running,

[103_RK]

I have a target afr and Daytona twin tec has a ve correction table so that I can look at several runs at the same time and put in the required VE correction to achieve the target afr.  I then go cell by cell and correct the ve numbers.