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Author Topic: 110" Starter Noise  (Read 13252 times)

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Black Label Mark

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110" Starter Noise
« on: January 12, 2008, 11:53:02 PM »

My starter has been making one hell of a noise when I turn the motor over.  Hard to describe the noise, sort of like a loud "kerchunk" when the gear engages.  Took the bike in for the 5K checkup and my dealer heard the noise and wants to keep the bike and when they get approval from HD they want to tear into the starter.

Has anyone had any starter problems with their 110" Motors?
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sadunbar

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2008, 12:23:29 AM »

My starter has been making one hell of a noise when I turn the motor over.  Hard to describe the noise, sort of like a loud "kerchunk" when the gear engages.  Took the bike in for the 5K checkup and my dealer heard the noise and wants to keep the bike and when they get approval from HD they want to tear into the starter.

Has anyone had any starter problems with their 110" Motors?

Are you sure your automatic compression released are working?
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Black Label Mark

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2008, 01:11:44 AM »

The Dealer says they looked into the ACR's.
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Bubba

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2008, 07:59:27 AM »

H-D Mikey's bike an 07 ultra, in Hot Springs G T G it broke the shaft off of the starter motor because it was banging so hard.  One shop replace the starter and said it was fixed but the starter still banging just as you described.  He took it to another shop and they said that the ACR's were burnt up and replaced them and as far as I know its not banging any more when he starts it.

~bubba~
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2008, 08:18:48 AM »

I know Gunnrunner had his replaced on his 07.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2008, 08:36:25 PM »

My starter on my 07 FXSTSSE was doing the same thing until the starter ring gear grenaded while I was riding at 55 mph. NOT A GOOD THING!!! My engine locked up with the rear wheel and to the side of the road I went. The ring gear pieces jammed up between the clutch and and the inner housing. My dealer replaced the ring gear, starter gear, clutch, and inner housing. My advice is to have your dealer take a close look at the ring gear. My dealer (Heritage Cycles, Ft. Walton Beach, Fl.) told me the factory believes a few bad ring gears got thru to production. Good luck!!
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Black Label Mark

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2008, 10:38:40 AM »

My starter on my 07 FXSTSSE was doing the same thing until the starter ring gear grenaded while I was riding at 55 mph. NOT A GOOD THING!!! My engine locked up with the rear wheel and to the side of the road I went. The ring gear pieces jammed up between the clutch and and the inner housing. My dealer replaced the ring gear, starter gear, clutch, and inner housing. My advice is to have your dealer take a close look at the ring gear. My dealer (Heritage Cycles, Ft. Walton Beach, Fl.) told me the factory believes a few bad ring gears got thru to production. Good luck!!
Vin-man

The Stealership tore into it yesterday and the ring gear was missing some teeth.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2008, 11:38:44 AM »

My starter has been making one hell of a noise when I turn the motor over.  Hard to describe the noise, sort of like a loud "kerchunk" when the gear engages.  Took the bike in for the 5K checkup and my dealer heard the noise and wants to keep the bike and when they get approval from HD they want to tear into the starter.

Has anyone had any starter problems with their 110" Motors?

Yeah, its not chrome!!
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TCinVA

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2008, 05:49:25 PM »

The Stealership tore into it yesterday and the ring gear was missing some teeth.
Had the same thing.  Dealer couldn't pin-point the problem.  I suspect the ACR.  Replaced the starter with a CHROME one - only $100!! MoCo picked up the balance  ;).
TC
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2008, 06:18:43 PM »

Ring gear broke and took the starter with it. New starter and an entire new clutch assembly, directly from the factory floor, since they couldn't get me a ring gear. Replaced it with a chrome starter too. ;)

Hoist! 8)
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TaxmanHog

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2008, 09:50:59 PM »

Looks like I am experiencing this issue now, actually it's been going on for months, since new, buts gettin progressively worse, the past several times I had it at the dealer, they did not hear what I was hearing, and assumed I was only hearing the ~NORMAL~ compensator clunk!!!

At this point with over 18,000 miles and 22 months on the road, my 07-Ultra-SE2 is making the horrible grinding noise, occurring more than 50% of starts.

I got to get it to happen when they are listening!

Any Idea how long those who have experienced this issue & fix waited for it to get done, I am planning a 2000 mile road trip for September and another in October, it would be nice to get her fix before it breaks the ring gear!   :2vrolijk_21:

PS
After reading THE FIX IS IN thread, looks like they have more work to do, checked my VIN and the 0905 campaign applies to me....NEW HEADS & ETC!!!!
« Last Edit: August 06, 2008, 11:03:17 PM by TaxmanHog »
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Buvy

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2008, 01:25:43 PM »

I too have been hearing the occasional horror out of my jester when firing her up I'll add it to the list.
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DESERTBEAR54

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2008, 02:36:16 PM »

I too have had the dreaded Start issue with combustion smoke blowing out of the intake. It is a terrible sound. My dealer heard it when it was in for the 15k check and is going to rebuild my starter ring gears. I believe the ACR's are also effecting it but I will be having new heads put on it also. Problem should go away. 8)
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Eqcons

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2008, 06:08:56 PM »

I too have been hearing the occasional horror out of my jester when firing her up I'll add it to the list.

Me too..... :(
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Eqcons

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #14 on: August 11, 2008, 06:11:54 PM »

Start issue with combustion smoke blowing out of the intake.

Hmmmm........... I thought that was just my bike that was doing that!  I presume that's a sign not of a starter problem, but of ACRs going faulty?

Jim.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #15 on: August 11, 2008, 08:48:07 PM »

I spoke to the head SM at my dealership and he confirmed they have had a few bikes with the trouble with the starter ring gear missing teeth due to failure of the ACR putting excess stress on it.

I will post their findings here.

I should also note that he stated during my product improvement (not recall) that if the cylinders are found to be out of tolerance that I will be getting a free new pair as part of the product improvement program.
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TaxmanHog

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2008, 09:14:59 PM »

Hmmmm........... I thought that was just my bike that was doing that!  I presume that's a sign not of a starter problem, but of ACRs going faulty?

Jim.

Possiby, so......last Spring when I had my bike in for the head-gasket-only fix, the SM approved & covered the cost of a replacement air filter, the original had burn holes in it!
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Eqcons

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2008, 06:10:43 AM »

Possiby, so......last Spring when I had my bike in for the head-gasket-only fix, the SM approved & covered the cost of a replacement air filter, the original had burn holes in it!

 :o
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BaggerDave

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2008, 08:03:57 AM »

My dealer says its normal, and they all do that! Sounds like he doesn't know his ass from 3rd base!
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #19 on: August 12, 2008, 08:11:34 AM »

My dealer says its normal, and they all do that! Sounds like he doesn't know his ass from 3rd base!

Sounds like he knows exactly what he's talking about. That's the #1 Company Line! :nixweiss: ;D ;)

Hoist! 8)
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #20 on: August 12, 2008, 12:32:40 PM »

hoist FTW  :coolblue:

FYI my SM corrected me yesterday when talking about the recall and he let me know the company line is product improvement LOL  :drink:
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2008, 04:54:50 PM »

For those rare few who may not be  following "THE 110 FIX IS IN" thread, my Starter Grinding noise was resolved, since the installation of new reduction gear/over run clutch in the starter & the installation of the new & improved heads.

Either the clutch was giving it up, or the ACR's in the old heads were not relieving the compression causin the starter to be over burdened.

Which ever was the root cause, it's fixed and every start in the past four days has been perfect!   :pineapple:
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Buvy

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #22 on: August 16, 2008, 09:01:54 PM »

Cool I'm just waiting to report back all sorts of findings.

I realized today just how much I miss my CUSE2
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #23 on: September 03, 2008, 01:24:59 PM »

I have had a boat load of problems with this motor. Head gaskets, rocker boxes, cylinder liners, valve seals, ACRs just to name a few. It has been back to the dealer so many times for various repairs that I'm losing count. The occasional noise on startup was thought to be an ACR problem. The entire head assemblies were replaced to take care of it. It is good to know that the noise I'm still hearing on startup is possibly related to some of the other issues I have already experienced. It will be headed back for another repair - this time I'll have them focus their attention on the starter and ring gear. Thanks guys for the insight.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #24 on: September 17, 2008, 01:38:23 PM »

I have an 08 SEUC that just had the heads replaced on the upgrade. Prior to the new heads I had a start/kickback
problem once in awhile where I got the starter grinding and puking out of the intake.Now with the new heads I get this situation almost every start and it sounds terrible. Has anyone else had this problem and if you have what have you done to stop it. And no changing the motor is not what I want to hear. When I had the new heads installed HD rebuilt my starter ring because of the previous start problems. I am going back to the shop this Friday and they are going to try and troubleshhoot this issue. :beatdeadhorse:
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BaggerDave

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #25 on: September 17, 2008, 01:51:13 PM »

Went back to the dealer, and they hooked up the computer to my Race Tuner and enabled the compression releases.
Problem solved!!!
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #26 on: September 17, 2008, 01:53:25 PM »

That's what I'm banking on BaggerDave!!
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2008, 06:38:59 PM »

Was leaving work today and the110 beast clunked and farted back through the filter with a puff of magic smoke. I have been holding off from doing the 0905 & 06. 4000 miles and no leaks but just about everything else that has been listed here. Keeping a list, checking it twice, wonder if dealer will be naughty or nice.How can I be enjoying such a piece of engineering embarassment? The hot weather just broke here, high 50s-low 60s in A.M. and 75 during the day. I'm going to whine like a 1st gear baby when she goes in and I have to drive. Maybe next month.One of the many best things about this site is that instead of going in to the dealer with a problem and being suseptable to the corproate BS answer, you guys give me the answers before I (and usually before they) know the questions. God I love it here. When I see the look on their faces when they realise That I know aand understand what's going on,priceless.Thanks again one more time again.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #28 on: October 07, 2008, 05:16:25 PM »

I replaced the stock ring gear in my bike.  For anyone considering a ring gear change, here's some internet info I collected that was helpful to me.

Starter Ring Gear

http://www.harley-davidson-forum.net/showpost.php?p=50776&postcount=4

Stock ring/pinion 102/10 has a ratio of 10.2, the 84/10 = 8.4, 66/9 = 7.3. The stock has the best ratio for leverage (torque). It has a slow cranking speed and turns the engine over with less amperage draw, but has a weak tooth design (limited in size) which can easily shear teeth when the engine kicks back on the starter.

With the 66/9 more amperage draw is necessary to turn the 9/66 tooth setup, but the starter will spin the engine faster if battery energy is sufficient and the larger/deeper teeth can withstand more kickback without shear. But, if cranking speed is not achieved due to low or inadequate battery energy, the engine can kick back on the starter with even more force than stock (failing the starter clutch). The 84/10 combo turns out to be a good compromise between tooth strength, battery draw and cranking speed.

Possible reason Harley changed from the 9/66 to the 10/102 ring/pinion gear setup was to get cranking power by reducing the RPM. In theory, the change in gearing would allow more power to be applied to the task of cranking the engine.

Starting an engine is hard work and pulls a lot of amps out of the battery. Address any weaknesses in the charging system. An engine may not crank fast enough to start or may not crank at all if:

* The starter has worn internal components
* A poor negative ground (run ground from battery to starter and battery to frame)
* Loose positive cable connection on the battery or on the starter.
* The battery's level of charge is low.
* Weak alternator may not be capable of keeping a battery fully charged, and without a full charge reliable starting may not be possible.
* Has undersized battery cables - the smaller the diameter of the wire in the battery cables, the fewer amps it can carry

Upgraded battery cable sources:

Monster cables: http://www.howardshorns.com/cables.htm
Sumax: http://sumax.com/bc.htm
All Balls: http://www.goallballs.com/HD_Dealers.asp
Terry Components: http://www.terrycomp.com/Kits.aspx

Drag Specialities - Battery cable listings

http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbo...ttery%20cables
http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbo...ttery%20cables
http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbo...ttery%20cables


« Last Edit: October 07, 2008, 05:26:57 PM by Bagger »
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #29 on: October 07, 2008, 05:17:00 PM »

http://www.riveraengineering.com/html/faq.html

What is the difference between the 66 tooth starter ring gear and the 102 tooth starter ring gear and what do you recommend?

In 1994 to present Harley Davidson changed the Big Twin ring gear from 66 teeth to 102 teeth, citing a better ratio for starting as the pinion gear moves the ring gear more efficiently. The problems start when the compression of the engine increases, thus making it much more difficult to turn the ring gear. The added pressure results in the narrower tooth on the 102 to fracture. The tooth on the 66 tooth ring gear is substantially wider and less prone to breakage. Rivera recommends the 66 tooth ring gear in all high compression applications.

http://hdforums.com/m_142104/tm.htm

It's a nice day so you jump on your 2000 FXST motorcycle to go for a ride. You've had a hard week and you know that a good long ride on your Harley will take all that stress away. You hit the starter button and hear an all too familiar sound again. The starter makes a grinding noise and you have to thumb it twice to get it to engage. Your stress meter is pegged and you're thinking of the money you are going to spend on another starter. What the heck is going on here? Are you causing the problem? Well don't feel lonely, as you are not alone and it is not your fault.

In 1989 Harley Davidson began using gear reduction motorcycle starters with a lot more cranking power than the old Prestolite and Hitachi starters. This new power practically ended starting problems for motorcycles on all but very high compression big inch engines. Along with the new starter there was a new jackshaft and gear ratio for the pinion and ring gear. The pinion was a 9 tooth and the ring gear was a 66 tooth. This is a 7.33:1 gear ratio. So if your starter were spinning at 1,000 RPM the motorcycles engine would be spinning at 136 RPM. This was plenty of cranking power for most applications.

There are some easy things you can do to help reduce the problem and there are products that will eliminate the problem.

1. Make sure your motorcycles battery is fully charged and your battery cables are in good shape and not corroded and the starter circuit is functioning properly. If the cables are old or you have an engine with high cranking compression you should consider upgrading the cables:

2. If you have a high performance engine that has high cranking compression, consider using a starter with increased torque. There are many choices from 1.4kw to over 2.0kw with varying finishes. The increased cranking power will actually lessen the load on the electrical system overall.

3. One of the best solutions is to change the gear ratio back to the pre 1994 7.33 or 66 tooth ring gear, 9-tooth pinion gear. There are kits from Rivera that allows you to convert from any 994 and later 10.2:1 ratio to the earlier ratio. These kits include all needed motorcycle parts and instructions and are easily installed. There are kits for the 94-97-clutch basket and the 98 and later clutch basket.

If you run a 1994 and later primary drive ratio and have trouble lighting up a big inch hot rod engine, revert to the earlier 1989-1993 pinion/ring gear setup. Or, switch to Compu-Fire's 10/84 ring and pinion for an increase in leverage. Why? This gets a little weird, but here goes: Then, HD used a 9 tooth pinion and a 66 toot ring gear, a 7.33:1 ratio. So if your starter was spinning at 1000 rpm, the clutch would be spinning a 136 rpm. Factor the primary drive gearing 1.54:1 into things and through the clutch, the flywheels cranks 209 rpm. In 1994 HD changed the starter gear ratio to 10.2:1 with a 10 tooth pinion and a 102 tooth ring gear cranking the clutch over at 98 rpm. But, the primary ratio changed to 1.44 at the same time, giving a net loss of crank spin for the same 1000 rpm at the starter of roughly 30 percent to 141 rpm.

In 1994, Harley Davidson changed the gear ratio to 10.2:1 or a 10-tooth pinion and a 102-tooth ring gear. The reason is unclear but perhaps the idea was to get cranking power by reducing the RPM. As in our example above, the new and current gear ratio would crank the engine at 98 RPM. In theory, the change in gearing would allow more power to be applied to the task of cranking the engine. Like starting off in first gear versus second gear. The change in gear ratio created another problem though. Since the diameter of the ring gear cannot be changed, adding 36 teeth means one thing - smaller teeth. The same thing applies to the pinion gear.

When the starter is engaged, the pinion gear starts rotating as it pushed out ward to the ring gear. If there is a misalignment between the ring gear and the pinion, the back cut on the ring gear helps engage the pinion gear and ring gear. However, there is always some damage done as the pinion attempts to engage the ring gear. If you get a kick back or the battery is a little weak more damage happens. When enough damage is done the starter makes that grinding sound like a Chevy with a bad ring gear does. It's the same thing really. A misaligned starter on the ring gear of the Chevy causes the pinion gear to not engage properly and it wears the ring gear teeth and you get that familiar grinding noise we all have heard. Kickback is another issue and is caused by cranking compression, improperly set ignition where the spark is not delayed for a few RPM before firing, too much initial spark advance and weak battery voltage of bad cables , etc. These can all contribute to starter problems for your motorcycle but usually this is what causes a starter clutch failure.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2008, 05:23:13 PM by Bagger »
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #30 on: October 07, 2008, 05:51:08 PM »

Bagger, what year is your bike? Does all this info pre-date '06 Dynas and all '07's &up? :confused5:

Hoist! 8)
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #31 on: October 07, 2008, 05:58:32 PM »

My starter went when I was in Milwaukee for the 105th. Luckily I broke down in the motel parking lot. H-D was running a 24hr free towing service and got my bike within 45 minutes (this was at 11pm) and brought it to Milwaukee H-D. The driver was a H-D Regional Service rep and stated it was probably the ACR's that caused the starter failure. The dealership replaced the starter but nothing with the ACR's. I made it all the way home to NY and it died in my driveway, certainly could have been worse. My local dealer picked up the bike and did all the needed repairs. It's been ok since. Everything was covered under the warranty - good thing I got the 7yr plan, may need it again.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #32 on: October 08, 2008, 09:49:18 AM »

Well had the bike in for the 20k and they troubleshot the SERT/ACR activation and all looked good on the Dyno. They pulled the starter off and it looked good. When I left the dealer it started just fine. Every time since then it grinds and pukes on the first start of the day. I am taking it to a different dealer to let them troubleshot this problem. I have noticed that it is more prevalent when the bike is cool and when it is warm it start's ok. I have learned that if I just bump the starter first and then try again I get a better start. It is a very annoying issue. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #33 on: October 08, 2008, 10:23:40 AM »

Another contributing factor is if you don't get full voltage to the coil with the electronic ignitions it can cause pre ignition so if your battery is not up or you have some bad connections it does more than just slow down the starter. Here are some trouble shooting tips.

Premature Ignition Firing
Either you have the ignition timing to far advanced or a common problem causing this is the supply to the
ignition system. This can be caused by a weak battery or poor supply lines (wiring) to the ignition. The power
for the ignition system is supplied by the battery and the wiring goes as follows: Battery > Starter + > Circuit
Breaker > Ignition Switch > Kill Switch > Ignition Coil > Ignition Module. How many connections are there, and
when was the last time you checked them. What happens is at some point along the supply line to the ignition
there is a high resistance connection causing a voltage drop.
If you have a drop of 3 volts to the ignition and the starter pulls the battery voltage down to 10 volts at start up
the ignition see 7 volts. If the ignition has a dropout voltage of 8 volts (Spyke Ignitions have a dropout of less
than 5 volts) or the point it will no longer will operate it turns off. The key is how do you fire a coil to generate a
spark to the spark plug? Turn the charged coil off collapsing the magnetic field around the secondary of the
coil. Peak load on the battery occurs as it approaches the first compression cycle and is near TDC. If the
voltage falls below the dropout voltage of the ignition at that point the ignition turns off in turn shutting the coil
off and a spark is generated. If the time the spark is generated happens to be 45° BTDC the fuel in the cylinder
is ignited. Since the engine has minimal RPM's the combustion of the fuel wants to drive the engine in the
opposite direction the starter is turning it and the engine wins. The ignition may only be off for a millisecond, but
that's all that is required to fire a coil. If this occurs, clean all connections to the ignition circuit and check the
voltage to the ignition while the circuit is loaded.
With ignition off and the , get a jumper wire with alligator clips and jumper
the trigger side of the coil to ground
. Turn the ignition
on and with a volt meter on DC volts, measure the voltage at the battery, Negative (black) lead of meter on the
battery negative and the Positive (Red) lead of the meter on the positive of the battery. Note the voltage i.e.
12.5 volts. Then move the Positive (Red) lead of the meter to the positive (+) side of the coil, the post feed by
the kill switch. Note the voltage reading of the meter. If the difference between the battery voltage and the
voltage at the coil is more than 1.5 Volts you should clean and check all connections between the battery and
the ignition coil. The dropout voltage of the Spyke Super Comp Ignition 5.0 volts or less and is very low in
comparison to many ignitions on the market.
Do not leave the jumper wire from the battery to the coil in place more the 4 minute if using a
3 Ohm coil. This jumper wire turns the coil on to load the circuit for the test. The coil will get hot and damage
the ignition and/or the coil if left on.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #34 on: October 08, 2008, 10:30:19 AM »

Classic Beast Very imformative information. I will bring this post to there attention. Hopefully they have a good sparky that knows what he is doing.
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #35 on: October 10, 2008, 09:18:48 AM »

Ring gear broke and took the starter with it. New starter and an entire new clutch assembly, directly from the factory floor, since they couldn't get me a ring gear. Replaced it with a chrome starter too. ;)

Hoist! 8)

Hoist, my bike is a 2002.  I haven't seen anything in forums or tech bulletins that changed the 2007 and up bikes - they are still 102 tooth ring gear and 10 tooth pinion gear.
« Last Edit: October 10, 2008, 10:07:03 AM by Bagger »
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2002 Road King Classic (117ci  (CR 10.62:1 / 
S&S 4 3/8” Flywheel / Baisley Superstock Plus Heads (83cc 1.94” I / 1.630” E)
4.125" Axtell cylinders / 4.125” JE -0.10" dished
0.030" Head Gasket / TMan 625G cam /
HPI 55mm TB / HPI 5.3 Injectors / Trask Assault A/C / FM Jackpot RTX 2-1

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #36 on: October 12, 2008, 05:56:19 PM »

Oh Oh, I think mine's now playing up
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    • CVO3: 4: & 5: '85 FXWG BLACK w/CUSTOM FLAMES, 110" EVO 6-SPEED +++ CVO style!!!; '08 NSMC PROSG CUSTOM FXR BASED PRO STREET BLACK, 89" EVO 5-SPEED, VERY FAST!!!; '09 NSMC HSTBBR CUSTOM RIGID HOISTBOBBER, SILVER METALFLAKE BATES SOLO SEAT & TIN w/BLACK WISHBONE FRAME, 80" EVO (w/Shovelhead bottom end) 4-SPEED! VERY COOL!!!
Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #37 on: October 12, 2008, 06:01:30 PM »

Hoist, my bike is a 2002.  I haven't seen anything in forums or tech bulletins that changed the 2007 and up bikes - they are still 102 tooth ring gear and 10 tooth pinion gear.

The gearing might be the same, but the parts are different in the later models. Different starter and clutch shell I believe. Not sure about the ring gear, but the pinion gear's prolly different. Not sure on the parts though. Don't have the earlier Parts Book. Thanks.

Hoist! 8)
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