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Author Topic: 110" Starter Noise  (Read 13213 times)

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Buvy

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #15 on: August 11, 2008, 08:48:07 PM »

I spoke to the head SM at my dealership and he confirmed they have had a few bikes with the trouble with the starter ring gear missing teeth due to failure of the ACR putting excess stress on it.

I will post their findings here.

I should also note that he stated during my product improvement (not recall) that if the cylinders are found to be out of tolerance that I will be getting a free new pair as part of the product improvement program.
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TaxmanHog

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2008, 09:14:59 PM »

Hmmmm........... I thought that was just my bike that was doing that!  I presume that's a sign not of a starter problem, but of ACRs going faulty?

Jim.

Possiby, so......last Spring when I had my bike in for the head-gasket-only fix, the SM approved & covered the cost of a replacement air filter, the original had burn holes in it!
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Eqcons

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2008, 06:10:43 AM »

Possiby, so......last Spring when I had my bike in for the head-gasket-only fix, the SM approved & covered the cost of a replacement air filter, the original had burn holes in it!

 :o
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BaggerDave

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2008, 08:03:57 AM »

My dealer says its normal, and they all do that! Sounds like he doesn't know his ass from 3rd base!
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #19 on: August 12, 2008, 08:11:34 AM »

My dealer says its normal, and they all do that! Sounds like he doesn't know his ass from 3rd base!

Sounds like he knows exactly what he's talking about. That's the #1 Company Line! :nixweiss: ;D ;)

Hoist! 8)
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Buvy

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #20 on: August 12, 2008, 12:32:40 PM »

hoist FTW  :coolblue:

FYI my SM corrected me yesterday when talking about the recall and he let me know the company line is product improvement LOL  :drink:
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TaxmanHog

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2008, 04:54:50 PM »

For those rare few who may not be  following "THE 110 FIX IS IN" thread, my Starter Grinding noise was resolved, since the installation of new reduction gear/over run clutch in the starter & the installation of the new & improved heads.

Either the clutch was giving it up, or the ACR's in the old heads were not relieving the compression causin the starter to be over burdened.

Which ever was the root cause, it's fixed and every start in the past four days has been perfect!   :pineapple:
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Buvy

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #22 on: August 16, 2008, 09:01:54 PM »

Cool I'm just waiting to report back all sorts of findings.

I realized today just how much I miss my CUSE2
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08cvouc

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #23 on: September 03, 2008, 01:24:59 PM »

I have had a boat load of problems with this motor. Head gaskets, rocker boxes, cylinder liners, valve seals, ACRs just to name a few. It has been back to the dealer so many times for various repairs that I'm losing count. The occasional noise on startup was thought to be an ACR problem. The entire head assemblies were replaced to take care of it. It is good to know that the noise I'm still hearing on startup is possibly related to some of the other issues I have already experienced. It will be headed back for another repair - this time I'll have them focus their attention on the starter and ring gear. Thanks guys for the insight.
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DESERTBEAR54

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #24 on: September 17, 2008, 01:38:23 PM »

I have an 08 SEUC that just had the heads replaced on the upgrade. Prior to the new heads I had a start/kickback
problem once in awhile where I got the starter grinding and puking out of the intake.Now with the new heads I get this situation almost every start and it sounds terrible. Has anyone else had this problem and if you have what have you done to stop it. And no changing the motor is not what I want to hear. When I had the new heads installed HD rebuilt my starter ring because of the previous start problems. I am going back to the shop this Friday and they are going to try and troubleshhoot this issue. :beatdeadhorse:
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BaggerDave

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #25 on: September 17, 2008, 01:51:13 PM »

Went back to the dealer, and they hooked up the computer to my Race Tuner and enabled the compression releases.
Problem solved!!!
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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #26 on: September 17, 2008, 01:53:25 PM »

That's what I'm banking on BaggerDave!!
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comfortablynumb

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2008, 06:38:59 PM »

Was leaving work today and the110 beast clunked and farted back through the filter with a puff of magic smoke. I have been holding off from doing the 0905 & 06. 4000 miles and no leaks but just about everything else that has been listed here. Keeping a list, checking it twice, wonder if dealer will be naughty or nice.How can I be enjoying such a piece of engineering embarassment? The hot weather just broke here, high 50s-low 60s in A.M. and 75 during the day. I'm going to whine like a 1st gear baby when she goes in and I have to drive. Maybe next month.One of the many best things about this site is that instead of going in to the dealer with a problem and being suseptable to the corproate BS answer, you guys give me the answers before I (and usually before they) know the questions. God I love it here. When I see the look on their faces when they realise That I know aand understand what's going on,priceless.Thanks again one more time again.
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Bagger

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #28 on: October 07, 2008, 05:16:25 PM »

I replaced the stock ring gear in my bike.  For anyone considering a ring gear change, here's some internet info I collected that was helpful to me.

Starter Ring Gear

http://www.harley-davidson-forum.net/showpost.php?p=50776&postcount=4

Stock ring/pinion 102/10 has a ratio of 10.2, the 84/10 = 8.4, 66/9 = 7.3. The stock has the best ratio for leverage (torque). It has a slow cranking speed and turns the engine over with less amperage draw, but has a weak tooth design (limited in size) which can easily shear teeth when the engine kicks back on the starter.

With the 66/9 more amperage draw is necessary to turn the 9/66 tooth setup, but the starter will spin the engine faster if battery energy is sufficient and the larger/deeper teeth can withstand more kickback without shear. But, if cranking speed is not achieved due to low or inadequate battery energy, the engine can kick back on the starter with even more force than stock (failing the starter clutch). The 84/10 combo turns out to be a good compromise between tooth strength, battery draw and cranking speed.

Possible reason Harley changed from the 9/66 to the 10/102 ring/pinion gear setup was to get cranking power by reducing the RPM. In theory, the change in gearing would allow more power to be applied to the task of cranking the engine.

Starting an engine is hard work and pulls a lot of amps out of the battery. Address any weaknesses in the charging system. An engine may not crank fast enough to start or may not crank at all if:

* The starter has worn internal components
* A poor negative ground (run ground from battery to starter and battery to frame)
* Loose positive cable connection on the battery or on the starter.
* The battery's level of charge is low.
* Weak alternator may not be capable of keeping a battery fully charged, and without a full charge reliable starting may not be possible.
* Has undersized battery cables - the smaller the diameter of the wire in the battery cables, the fewer amps it can carry

Upgraded battery cable sources:

Monster cables: http://www.howardshorns.com/cables.htm
Sumax: http://sumax.com/bc.htm
All Balls: http://www.goallballs.com/HD_Dealers.asp
Terry Components: http://www.terrycomp.com/Kits.aspx

Drag Specialities - Battery cable listings

http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbo...ttery%20cables
http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbo...ttery%20cables
http://www.dragspecialties.com/fatbo...ttery%20cables


« Last Edit: October 07, 2008, 05:26:57 PM by Bagger »
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Bagger

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Re: 110" Starter Noise
« Reply #29 on: October 07, 2008, 05:17:00 PM »

http://www.riveraengineering.com/html/faq.html

What is the difference between the 66 tooth starter ring gear and the 102 tooth starter ring gear and what do you recommend?

In 1994 to present Harley Davidson changed the Big Twin ring gear from 66 teeth to 102 teeth, citing a better ratio for starting as the pinion gear moves the ring gear more efficiently. The problems start when the compression of the engine increases, thus making it much more difficult to turn the ring gear. The added pressure results in the narrower tooth on the 102 to fracture. The tooth on the 66 tooth ring gear is substantially wider and less prone to breakage. Rivera recommends the 66 tooth ring gear in all high compression applications.

http://hdforums.com/m_142104/tm.htm

It's a nice day so you jump on your 2000 FXST motorcycle to go for a ride. You've had a hard week and you know that a good long ride on your Harley will take all that stress away. You hit the starter button and hear an all too familiar sound again. The starter makes a grinding noise and you have to thumb it twice to get it to engage. Your stress meter is pegged and you're thinking of the money you are going to spend on another starter. What the heck is going on here? Are you causing the problem? Well don't feel lonely, as you are not alone and it is not your fault.

In 1989 Harley Davidson began using gear reduction motorcycle starters with a lot more cranking power than the old Prestolite and Hitachi starters. This new power practically ended starting problems for motorcycles on all but very high compression big inch engines. Along with the new starter there was a new jackshaft and gear ratio for the pinion and ring gear. The pinion was a 9 tooth and the ring gear was a 66 tooth. This is a 7.33:1 gear ratio. So if your starter were spinning at 1,000 RPM the motorcycles engine would be spinning at 136 RPM. This was plenty of cranking power for most applications.

There are some easy things you can do to help reduce the problem and there are products that will eliminate the problem.

1. Make sure your motorcycles battery is fully charged and your battery cables are in good shape and not corroded and the starter circuit is functioning properly. If the cables are old or you have an engine with high cranking compression you should consider upgrading the cables:

2. If you have a high performance engine that has high cranking compression, consider using a starter with increased torque. There are many choices from 1.4kw to over 2.0kw with varying finishes. The increased cranking power will actually lessen the load on the electrical system overall.

3. One of the best solutions is to change the gear ratio back to the pre 1994 7.33 or 66 tooth ring gear, 9-tooth pinion gear. There are kits from Rivera that allows you to convert from any 994 and later 10.2:1 ratio to the earlier ratio. These kits include all needed motorcycle parts and instructions and are easily installed. There are kits for the 94-97-clutch basket and the 98 and later clutch basket.

If you run a 1994 and later primary drive ratio and have trouble lighting up a big inch hot rod engine, revert to the earlier 1989-1993 pinion/ring gear setup. Or, switch to Compu-Fire's 10/84 ring and pinion for an increase in leverage. Why? This gets a little weird, but here goes: Then, HD used a 9 tooth pinion and a 66 toot ring gear, a 7.33:1 ratio. So if your starter was spinning at 1000 rpm, the clutch would be spinning a 136 rpm. Factor the primary drive gearing 1.54:1 into things and through the clutch, the flywheels cranks 209 rpm. In 1994 HD changed the starter gear ratio to 10.2:1 with a 10 tooth pinion and a 102 tooth ring gear cranking the clutch over at 98 rpm. But, the primary ratio changed to 1.44 at the same time, giving a net loss of crank spin for the same 1000 rpm at the starter of roughly 30 percent to 141 rpm.

In 1994, Harley Davidson changed the gear ratio to 10.2:1 or a 10-tooth pinion and a 102-tooth ring gear. The reason is unclear but perhaps the idea was to get cranking power by reducing the RPM. As in our example above, the new and current gear ratio would crank the engine at 98 RPM. In theory, the change in gearing would allow more power to be applied to the task of cranking the engine. Like starting off in first gear versus second gear. The change in gear ratio created another problem though. Since the diameter of the ring gear cannot be changed, adding 36 teeth means one thing - smaller teeth. The same thing applies to the pinion gear.

When the starter is engaged, the pinion gear starts rotating as it pushed out ward to the ring gear. If there is a misalignment between the ring gear and the pinion, the back cut on the ring gear helps engage the pinion gear and ring gear. However, there is always some damage done as the pinion attempts to engage the ring gear. If you get a kick back or the battery is a little weak more damage happens. When enough damage is done the starter makes that grinding sound like a Chevy with a bad ring gear does. It's the same thing really. A misaligned starter on the ring gear of the Chevy causes the pinion gear to not engage properly and it wears the ring gear teeth and you get that familiar grinding noise we all have heard. Kickback is another issue and is caused by cranking compression, improperly set ignition where the spark is not delayed for a few RPM before firing, too much initial spark advance and weak battery voltage of bad cables , etc. These can all contribute to starter problems for your motorcycle but usually this is what causes a starter clutch failure.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2008, 05:23:13 PM by Bagger »
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2002 Road King Classic (117ci  (CR 10.62:1 / 
S&S 4 3/8” Flywheel / Baisley Superstock Plus Heads (83cc 1.94” I / 1.630” E)
4.125" Axtell cylinders / 4.125” JE -0.10" dished
0.030" Head Gasket / TMan 625G cam /
HPI 55mm TB / HPI 5.3 Injectors / Trask Assault A/C / FM Jackpot RTX 2-1
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