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[Wildrat]

This is what I have come up with for my wife's 06 Street Glide, and mine soon, maybe right after hers.
If you see something questionable please tell me.

S&S 510G Gear Drive Camshaft Kit # 49-9470 M&M
S&S Adjustable Push Rod Kit # 49-9961 M&M
S&S Cam Install Kit # 49-9680 M&M
Fueling Press. Relief Spring # 49-5201 M&M
SE Cam Plate and Oil Pump # 25283-07 HD Dealership

I do not have lifters listed because I was told by someone that HD lifters are Good. If you dis-agree please tell me why, and a recommendation.

Thank You all for your Patience and your help. I have not regretted being a member of this forum. I was/am a member of another forum I will not mention and I never got a straight answer. I only regret not finding this site two years ago.

[Sean M Cary]

This is what I have come up with for my wife's 06 Street Glide, and mine soon, maybe right after hers.
If you see something questionable please tell me.

S&S 510G Gear Drive Camshaft Kit # 49-9470 M&M
S&S Adjustable Push Rod Kit # 49-9961 M&M
S&S Cam Install Kit # 49-9680 M&M
Fueling Press. Relief Spring # 49-5201 M&M
SE Cam Plate and Oil Pump # 25283-07 HD Dealership

I do not have lifters listed because I was told by someone that HD lifters are Good. If you dis-agree please tell me why, and a recommendation.

Thank You all for your Patience and your help. I have not regretted being a member of this forum. I was/am a member of another forum I will not mention and I never got a straight answer. I only regret not finding this site two years ago.

did you see Portholes post on doing this upgrade?  Worth the time to find it.

Planning on the same parts/job next year for my 03 SERK.

Take pictures!!

Sean

[Hoist!]

This is what I have come up with for my wife's 06 Street Glide, and mine soon, maybe right after hers.
If you see something questionable please tell me.

S&S 510G Gear Drive Camshaft Kit # 49-9470 M&M
S&S Adjustable Push Rod Kit # 49-9961 M&M
S&S Cam Install Kit # 49-9680 M&M
Fueling Press. Relief Spring # 49-5201 M&M
SE Cam Plate and Oil Pump # 25283-07 HD Dealership

I do not have lifters listed because I was told by someone that HD lifters are Good. If you dis-agree please tell me why, and a recommendation.

Thank You all for your Patience and your help. I have not regretted being a member of this forum. I was/am a member of another forum I will not mention and I never got a straight answer. I only regret not finding this site two years ago.

I didn't check you P/N's at all, but I'd leave the new SE camplate alone. You don't need that spring with the new SE CP/OP.

Hoist!

[Wildrat]

Maybe I can get a cameraman. It is most likely going to take me about a week to do the work because of my disabilities but I will do my best.
Hoist you posted while I was commenting on the photo's. So the SE camplate has a better spring?

[Hoist!]

Maybe I can get a cameraman. It is most likely going to take me about a week to do the work because of my disabilities but I will do my best.
Hoist you posted while I was commenting on the photo's. So the SE camplate has a better spring?

It's setup correctly for the newer lube system. OP isn't a big problem since the newer style Dyna ('06) and all '07's and up. The spring helps increase oil pressure with the older OP.

Hoist!

[Wildrat]

I hate to keep kicking this dead horse, but I have the same question again but different.
So when this plate is installed on a 06 Street Glide I will have higher OP at idle?

[Hoist!]

I hate to keep kicking this dead horse, but I have the same question again but different.
So when this plate is installed on a 06 Street Glide I will have higher OP at idle?

Compared to your stock '06 setup, yes.

Hoist!

[Talon]

I didn't check you P/N's at all, but I'd leave the new SE camplate alone. You don't need that spring with the new SE CP/OP.

Hoist!

Howie beat me to it, you don't need the new spring with the SE oil pump, more pressure from this pump! Man Howie, you were on this one quick! 

[Wildrat]

What has the OP been running at idle with the new pump?

[SPIDERMAN]

Can I ask a question ?

What are you looking to gain here ?

I can't really tell looking at your list of parts

B B

[Sean M Cary]

Can I ask a question ?

What are you looking to gain here ?

I can't really tell looking at your list of parts

B B

his tensioners are et up - its in another thread.

[SPIDERMAN]

his tensioners are et up - its in another thread.

Sean
       I know what's broke, what I don't know is why he's trying to fix what ain't, ie: what his hope for the finished product ?

B B

[Wildrat]

Yes, it started with the tensioners in the wife's bike. I am kinda screwed up physically so it is very difficult for me to do things. I can if I have too though, with the help of my strong pain meds. I called a dealer here and asked them how much to do the job, they said I'll call you back. They did, told me 1200 bucks and change to do the tensioner job. I said to myself,yes, your screwed up but 1200 bucks is a lot of money and a HD is not rocket science. Before I got injured I was building blower motors, BBC & SBC. I even did the work on my blowers, they are not rocket science either. I do everything on my bikes, it just takes lots of time because of breaks and pain., but I plug along. I told the wife if i tear into the bottom end I might as well improve things a bit. I am not looking to break speed records, just get a little more torque at the lower end, and some reliability. So 1) S&S gear drive kit gets rid of HD's tensioners, chains, etc. I get better bearings and better reliability. Less than 25K on tensioners is not reliability, if it had happen on my trip to the Grand Canyon I would have been dis-pleased, not happy now, I'd rather not have to cause more damage to my body.2) S&S adjustable push-rods kit, I think that's self-explanatory.3) S&S cam install kit, would have needed one whether I went back with chain or gear cams, again self-explanatory 4) SE Cam plate and oil pump, After market oil pumps cost more than they are worth, from reading the aftermarket cam plates have their issues with tolerances. The SE CP & Pump is more cost effective because I get a billet cam plate and a better than 06 oil pump, and I'm told I don't need the press relief spring because the new plate is already set up. I think that covers it except for the new cam and oil pump fasteners from ARP that I will be using.  This is why I put the please review post here is to see if the setup is OK as far as compatibility of parts. I am keeping the stock heads & pistons/jugs for now. When I a whole bunch of miles on the motor and I decide to keep the bike and I am able too I will take the motors apart and build it like a tank like I do everything. Don't get the wrong opinion I am not rattled by the why and what question, and I apologise if I sound like I am being a SA, I'm not, as I prefer peaceful co-existence till I get dis-stressed. HD Dealers dis-stress me around here especially GC HD. HD is about making money and not quality and customer service.So anyway, let loose.
edit) I forgot to add this major parts=$1,196, 4 bucks and some change less than HD and $298 in special tools. So $1,400 in tools and parts vs $1,200 and HD puts it back together with a stock bottom end. Yes, some will say what about time. I have all kinda time, I am disabled and do not work, and trust me, you don't want to be me.

[REGGAB]

This is what I have come up with for my wife's 06 Street Glide, and mine soon, maybe right after hers.
If you see something questionable please tell me.

S&S 510G Gear Drive Camshaft Kit # 49-9470 M&M
S&S Adjustable Push Rod Kit # 49-9961 M&M
S&S Cam Install Kit # 49-9680 M&M
Fueling Press. Relief Spring # 49-5201 M&M
SE Cam Plate and Oil Pump # 25283-07 HD Dealership

I do not have lifters listed because I was told by someone that HD lifters are Good. If you dis-agree please tell me why, and a recommendation.

Thank You all for your Patience and your help. I have not regretted being a member of this forum. I was/am a member of another forum I will not mention and I never got a straight answer. I only regret not finding this site two years ago.

Rat,
In response to the lifter query, if I were you, I'd replace them with stock HD Lifters.  What you don't know is if any tensioner pieces, or other matter, got in the ones you have, which may cause a leak down and make one, some or all of them slow to pump up, or worse yet, not pump up at all.  Plus, I can't see where you've mentioned mileage on the motor, so as a preventive measure, and to be thorough, I think it would be worth your while to replace the lifters.  JMHO.

[SPIDERMAN]

I am not looking to break speed records, just get a little more torque at the lower end, and some reliability.

 I am disabled and do not work, and trust me, you don't want to be me.

Wildrat
           1st off, you have my sympathy for your disbility. I am in a similar situation having been forced into retirement by physical issues. I just turned 55 and have seen my body go from being able to put  700 miles a day on a bike to being lucky to put in 200. I am sympatico amigo believe me.

2nd, your post above. The only thing I see you doing performance wise is adding a different cam. I'm sure the other members will correct me if I'm wrong, but the cams you can drop into a CVO motor without doing head work are not torque producing cams. They add some HP at the upper end of the RPM range. I would suggest you re-think your position and have your heads worked and install a set of cams intended to work in conjunction with the work done to your heads to produce more torque. I personally prefer Dave Mackie Engineering for this type of set-up. You can call DME and speak with Dave Mackie yourself. The phone number is on their website. There are many many other shops doing top shelf work on heads and they will have their own recommendations on cams. I strongly urge you to look into having your heads re-worked. Price wise, you're talking another $1,000 but it's money very well spent.

Just my $0.02
                     B B

[sadunbar]

Wildrat
           1st off, you have my sympathy for your disbility. I am in a similar situation having been forced into retirement by physical issues. I just turned 55 and have seen my body go from being able to put  700 miles a day on a bike to being lucky to put in 200. I am sympatico amigo believe me.

2nd, your post above. The only thing I see you doing performance wise is adding a different cam. I'm sure the other members will correct me if I'm wrong, but the cams you can drop into a CVO motor without doing head work are not torque producing cams. They add some HP at the upper end of the RPM range. I would suggest you re-think your position and have your heads worked and install a set of cams intended to work in conjunction with the work done to your heads to produce more torque. I personally prefer Dave Mackie Engineering for this type of set-up. You can call DME and speak with Dave Mackie yourself. The phone number is on their website. There are many many other shops doing top shelf work on heads and they will have their own recommendations on cams. I strongly urge you to look into having your heads re-worked. Price wise, you're talking another $1,000 but it's money very well spent.

Just my $0.02
                     B B

Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque!   

[SBB]

Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque!   

Gotta add to that Scott.


Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun! 

[Boatman]

Do as HML (Henry) stated and get new lifters.  Don't put old lifters on new cams.  (Fueling, S&S, or HD).

Make sure the 510 gear drive cams you order come with the gears (I thought you bought the gears in a seperate kit).  The 510's work well with your stock heads per S&S.


I have the S&S pushrods, but if I were doing it again, I would buy the new SE HD tapered pushrods.

Lastly, Mark at M&M can also sell you the HD SE cam plate, oil pump, and tapered pushrods at least 15% off list.

He doesn't have this stuff in stock but
 

can get it in 7-10 days to you.  Tell him what you need for your 06 88 Streetglide and he will look it up and get it.
 

[sadunbar]

Gotta add to that Scott.


Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun! 

Ahhhhhhh....very true.......

[Wildrat]

I wasn't going to reuse the lifters, just go back with new HD lifters.

Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun!
Money= Independently wealthy thanks to disability checks from the man, I guess it's a man?
Cams = 510G included in the S&S Gear Drive Kit. Cams are fairly cheap, can upgrade them when top end work is done.
Heads= Do that when I do the top end
Throttle Body= Will be done when I tell her, her bike would work better with a larger throttle body. She gets one, I get one by default.
Air Cleaner= Doherty Power Pacc Billet with power vents A/C, already installed.
Exhaust= Bassani Power Curve exhaust with Megaphone muffs, already installed.
It's getting there one of these days.

[REGGAB]

Gotta add to that Scott.


Money = Cams, heads, throttle body, air cleaner, exhaust = performance and more torque = fun! 

Whew.....Chip you nailed that one down pretty square.  First one is already happened.  The next four are present and accounted for.  Waiting on the exhaust.  Hopefully we'll get to the "fun" before long.

But that first one.......WOW.........that was rough.   

[Wildrat]

Lying bed last night I remembered SpiderMan. My thoughts are with you too man. Yep, got hit with this when I was 42, now I'm 50 and it's not any easier. The first week was OK being off work, but it's been boring ever sense, except when I'm on a ride or doing something I am not suppose to do like this work on the wife's bike. A couple of weeks ago she got an exhaust leak on the front cyl and it took me almost a week to get it fixed. Like I said I'm slow but sure and hurt like heck at the end of a day. I have a radio hobby also and have not been on air for almost 2 years now. I decided to build a room in the garage for my radios, computers, work bench (electronics). It's been being built for about a year, it's close though. I will soon be able to have all my toys in one area, my tools, my bikes, my radios, computers, electronics, reloading equip etc. etc., and it's air conditioned. It'll be fun when done and I will have some where to hibernate.
Well, I'm finalizing my shopping list, so maybe parts will be ordered today or tomorrow. Tools have been sent also, glad George is on top of that stuff.

[Talon]

If you go gears you need to have the crank run out checked first, so before ordering you should have this done.

regardless of that you finally decide on, if your not really wanting to do this yourself, you might check some local independent shops, talk to some other riders that have had work done in your area, you might find someone to do it cheaper.

[Wildrat]

I like doing this stuff, it's mechanical, oily, frustrating at times but the satisfaction of completing the job is better than any drug.
I will check the crank runout.

[meanbean]

This is what I have come up with for my wife's 06 Street Glide, and mine soon, maybe right after hers.
If you see something questionable please tell me.

S&S 510G Gear Drive Camshaft Kit # 49-9470 M&M
S&S Adjustable Push Rod Kit # 49-9961 M&M
S&S Cam Install Kit # 49-9680 M&M
Fueling Press. Relief Spring # 49-5201 M&M
SE Cam Plate and Oil Pump # 25283-07 HD Dealership

I do not have lifters listed because I was told by someone that HD lifters are Good. If you dis-agree please tell me why, and a recommendation.

Thank You all for your Patience and your help. I have not regretted being a member of this forum. I was/am a member of another forum I will not mention and I never got a straight answer. I only regret not finding this site two years ago.

 2 cents from a new guy here............

I like the S&S gears, I ran them in my TC88. Check your shaft run out, if it's more than .0025 - .003, stick with the chain.
I've used the SE adjustable rods, never had a problem with them. Someone told me the SE tubes were a thicker gauge than the S&S's but I don't know that for a fact and I've never ran the S&S's in a motor.
I don't know what a cam installation kit is. What is it, a cam chest gasket? I've used the oven / freezer and arbor press method of gear drive cam installation and it works fine.
There are many expensive cam plates out there, but I,ve never ran one. I never had any problems with the stock plate.
I never used an SE oil pump but I have used Fueling oil pumps and they are good, well made and get 40 psi at 3000 rpm.

Like I said, just 2 cents from the new guy.

[Wildrat]

10-4, the cam plate and oil pump come together from Hardly a Davidson. The cam install kit is incorporated in the S&S gear drive kit, it's the gasket and couple other things. I have a friend with a machine shop and he is going to either let me do it or he will do it himself. When I built auto engines I would use the oven frezzer method also.
Thanks for your input! Parts on the way.

[meanbean]

10-4, the cam plate and oil pump come together from Hardly a Davidson. The cam install kit is incorporated in the S&S gear drive kit, it's the gasket and couple other things. I have a friend with a machine shop and he is going to either let me do it or he will do it himself. When I built auto engines I would use the oven frezzer method also.
Thanks for your input! Parts on the way.

Good luck with your build, post up on the progression.

A friend with a machine shop is a good friend

[Wildrat]

I have all my small parts now, and the lift is setup. All I need now is for the parts I ordered from M&M to show up. They collected the money so I would hope to hear something from Mark soon. I think I will send him an email to see what the stat is. I ordered some Magnecor wires today for the two beast. Hey, that brings up another question.
Do any of you have a different way of removing the connecting line in the front, or do ya just drain the tank, cut the hose and put a new piece of hose on and clamp it?

[hd-dude]

I have all my small parts now, and the lift is setup. All I need now is for the parts I ordered from M&M to show up. They collected the money so I would hope to hear something from Mark soon. I think I will send him an email to see what the stat is. I ordered some Magnecor wires today for the two beast. Hey, that brings up another question.
Do any of you have a different way of removing the connecting line in the front, or do ya just drain the tank, cut the hose and put a new piece of hose on and clamp it?

Assuming you mean the fuel tank? Cut the clamp with a heavy wire cutter and remove it, then a new clamp and your good to go...

But......why are you pulling the fuel tank? Just cut the old pushrods out with bolt cutters. Just make sure the cam is on the base (valve closed, lifter down) before cutting........This will save you a couple hours of labor and gaskets for the rockers. Also depending on what push rods you aquired you may need different push rods tubes to make the adjustment much easier. I like the new SE tapered. They come with the new tubes and new o-rings.

[Talon]

Wildrat, you might just want to run thru this link below, gives you a step by step on changing the cams using adjustable push rods like Jim is talking about. I would use new lifters

Craig

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage1.htm

[skreminegul07]

Wildrat, you might just want to run thru this link below, gives you a step by step on changing the cams using adjustable push rods like Jim is talking about. I would use new lifters

Craig

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/camguidepage1.htm

Nice link.  Thanks

[Talon]

Nice link.  Thanks

No problem, they also have a link on a complete cam and big bore upgrade, with a lot of pictures for each step, it's for a 1550, but still the same steps.

http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/1550/bbonline.htm

[Wildrat]

I have been going to his site for a couple of years now. He usually has the bulletins and some other info.

I am taking the tank off in order to change SP wires. The rocket scientist clamped them to the bottom of the tank. I will put the new ones back on like the old ones to prevent chafing and I should not have to worry about replacing plug wires for awhile since I am using Magnecor wires.
I know how to cut the clamps on the tank for the front hose. I was just wondering if anyone goes back with say -6AN hose and fittings to make removing in future easier.

I also got shipping info from M&M for Tuesday delivery, hopefully everything shipped and it's not a partial order that I have to find another source for the rest of the parts.

[hd-dude]

Its not easy but plug wires can be changed without tank removal, just remove the 3 bolts that hold it in place an lift it a bit, place a small block of wood under the tank and on top of the frame to  hold it up for you...

[Wildrat]

I have done that for other things but with the size of my hands there is no room and I think it will be much less frustrating and time consuming to just take the tank off.

[SPIDERMAN]

I have done that for other things but with the size of my hands there is no room and I think it will be much less frustrating and time consuming to just take the tank off.

I bought a small siphon pump that makes draining the tank a snap.

I'm not a big fan of working around a loose tank either. Never know when it's gonna fall off.

Just my $0.02. d00d probably isn't as klutzy as me when it comes to this.

B B

[Wildrat]

Falling off would be a bad thing, no telling how long it would take the dealer to repair and paint if it is repairable. I don't know if i said this before but all the parts are suppose to be in on Tuesday. I won't be getting started on the little project till after Jan. 5th though. We have to go to Orlando for my wife can take some continuing ed classes, then we are home for a couple of days and were off to N.C. for a week. Then the Parents are coming for a visit from Mobile, then I have to go to court on Jan 5th. It's better to wait for all this stuff to get done with so I can concentrate on the work. My wife will also be starting tax season so I won't be pestered to get them fixed so she can pester me to go ride.

[sadunbar]

I have all my small parts now, and the lift is setup. All I need now is for the parts I ordered from M&M to show up. They collected the money so I would hope to hear something from Mark soon. I think I will send him an email to see what the stat is. I ordered some Magnecor wires today for the two beast. Hey, that brings up another question.
Do any of you have a different way of removing the connecting line in the front, or do ya just drain the tank, cut the hose and put a new piece of hose on and clamp it?

I replaced the stock hose with this...  One mounted on the tank permanently and a second to use if I want to drain the tank...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chromed-Brass-Fuel-Quick-Disconnect-Harley-Crossover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ310088800640QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[Twolanerider]

I replaced the stock hose with this...  One mounted on the tank permanently and a second to use if I want to drain the tank...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chromed-Brass-Fuel-Quick-Disconnect-Harley-Crossover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ310088800640QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Three caveats.  I use crossover lines with quick disconnects in them also.  Only way to go.  Makes removing the tank a ten minute task whether it's full of gas or empty.  But....

When the tank is off push the coupler back together.  If not the o-rings at the joints will often leak after reassembly. 

Once a year or so open up the coupler and spray it well with WD-40 and blow it out.  Make it part of the spring service.

That ebay link above is for a coupler advertised as for 1/4" line.  That's correct for some models.  You'll need 5/16" for your touring bike though.  Same seller has 5/16" version in other listings for the same price.

[Wildrat]

Finally the question is answered! Thanks Man!

[Hoist!]

Thanks Scott and Don! Just what  was looking for! Ordered the 5/16" today!

Going to get Joy now and do a lil riding with her new bars and mid-controls on!

Hoist!

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Scott and Don! Just what  was looking for! Ordered the 5/16" today!

Going to get Joy now and do a lil riding with her new bars and mid-controls on!

Hoist!

There used to be a company that produced a complete line, nice machine crimped ends and chrome clamps; the whole deal.  That's what's on the SEEG.  But at the time it was also the last such line I found from any vendor anywhere.  The mftr had gone out of business and no one else had started making them.

The SERG got the coupler just like this.  Used a pair of chrome covered house clamps out on the tank nipples where it's seen more and a couple of normal screw clamps at the coupler.  It's not the most beautiful line in the world.  But unless you're really looking for it you never see it.  And it is so nice to just reach around and unhook it when you want to take the tank off.  No draining.  No mess.  No fuss.

Motion Pro makes an all plastic quick coupler also.  I saw one of them snap once as a reconnect that wasn't being done straight enough was forced too hard.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Scott and Don! Just what  was looking for! Ordered the 5/16" today!

Going to get Joy now and do a lil riding with her new bars and mid-controls on!

Hoist!

Oh yeah, and if it ever does start to drip a bit the first and most likely culprit is the o-ring on the end of the male part of the coupler.  Standard o-ring too.  Any parts store.  They do have a tendency to leak if you've pulled the tank and left it uncoupled and exposed for a period of time.  Plugged together so it's not drying out exposed after once covered in fuel they don't give any problem though.

[Hoist!]

Oh yeah, and if it ever does start to drip a bit the first and most likely culprit is the o-ring on the end of the male part of the coupler.  Standard o-ring too.  Any parts store.  They do have a tendency to leak if you've pulled the tank and left it uncoupled and exposed for a period of time.  Plugged together so it's not drying out exposed after once covered in fuel they don't give any problem though.

I hear to keep the lubed w/Vaseline! True? And no wise-ass comments!

Hoist!

[Fired00d]

I head to keep the lubed w/Vaseline! True? And no wise-ass comments!

Hoist!

* Fired00d ain't touching that!!! 

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[spydglide]

I hear to keep the lubed w/Vaseline! True? And no wise-ass comments!

Hoist!

As hot as my SEEG runs, the vaseline wouldn't last 8 blocks before dripping out.    har!  spyder

[Wildrat]

There are other lubes much better than vas. for putting on the o-ring. I don't remember the name at the moment. I will try to remember. We used it on o-rings on the jets. The stuff was something else, high temp, clear, extremely sticky and slippery. I don't think they sell it in California for obvious reasons.

[Twolanerider]

I hear to keep the lubed w/Vaseline! True? And no wise-ass comments!

Hoist!

I've forgotten the name of the product at the moment.  But the best stuff I've ever used to treat o-rings, weatherstrip or other like rubber products for long duration survival is something from the dive shop.  Used on SCUBA and other dive gear. 

It's going to bug me until I remember the name.  But not enough to make me get off the couch and go look in the garage for it.

[SBB]

  But not enough to make me get off the couch and go look in the garage for it.

At least you said garage instead of bathroom!

                                    

[Twolanerider]

At least you said garage instead of bathroom!

                                    

Quit making me laugh! 

[spydglide]

Speeeeuuuwwwwww!     har!  spyder

[Hoist!]

This was WAY too easy!!!

Hoist!

[Texas 103]

I've forgotten the name of the product at the moment.  But the best stuff I've ever used to treat o-rings, weatherstrip or other like rubber products for long duration survival is something from the dive shop.  Used on SCUBA and other dive gear. 

It's going to bug me until I remember the name.  But not enough to make me get off the couch and go look in the garage for it.

They sell it at most any pool supply store, Wal-mart, it;s lube  for O rings on filters, etc:  Works great and and since it's not petroleum based it will preserve the O-Rings    Trying to find  a tube around here..so I can get you a name >>> Greg

[Wildrat]

Loctite 29710 Krytox® RFE PFPE High Perfomance Lubricant

[Hoist!]

I replaced the stock hose with this...  One mounted on the tank permanently and a second to use if I want to drain the tank...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chromed-Brass-Fuel-Quick-Disconnect-Harley-Crossover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ310088800640QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Well that guy was extremely prompt with the Quick Disconnect. Got it today. Part looks nice too! Thanks guys!

And this was included, his instructions on lubing your O-Ring!

"In an effort to help protect this product we recommend that  you use a small amount of silicone spray on the O-Rings of the Quick Disconnect before you install it and each time you disconnect it."

Hoist!

[sadunbar]

Well that guy was extremely prompt with the Quick Disconnect. Got it today. Part looks nice too! Thanks guys!

And this was included, his instructions on lubing your O-Ring!

"In an effort to help protect this product we recommend that  you use a small amount of silicone spray on the O-Rings of the Quick Disconnect before you install it and each time you disconnect it."

Hoist!

It is a quality piece, isn't it Howie...  The other nice part of using the quick disconnect is if you get a second one, it is an extremely easy and drip free method of draining a tank...

[Wildrat]

When you ordered did you get confirmation from him, or did the parts just show up?
I ordered two 5/16 QD's, one for each bike. I will order a couple more later on and install on the main fuel line, then it will be a quick removal for the tank. I might see if they have threaded ones also instead of push on and use them on the crash bar oil cooler.

[Hoist!]

When you ordered did you get confirmation from him, or did the parts just show up?
I ordered two 5/16 QD's, one for each bike. I will order a couple more later on and install on the main fuel line, then it will be a quick removal for the tank. I might see if they have threaded ones also instead of push on and use them on the crash bar oil cooler.

No confirmation. It just showed up. With a business card. Coyote-Gear.com, Bill Hower.

Hoist!

[Wildrat]

I got a confirmation from the fuel QD guy today, saying the QD's got posted yesterday, now it's in the hands of the government.
On another note. I received all the parts for the two bikes today from M&M, and Magnecor. I won't be able to start the fun till after Christmas. I just found out today I will be in Hilton Head, SC for Christmas. We are riding the bikes, hopefully it won't be to cool, because the titanium in my back starts binding up and creaking when it's cold.

[Wildrat]

I received my OD's today and they are nice. I like the way the two parts separate when the release is pushed, now I need two more so I can put one on the engine fuel feed line.

[Wildrat]

http://quickcouplings.net/osc/index.php

LCD17005V - 5/16 HoseBarb Valved InLine CouplingBody w/ Viton se    LCD17005V - 5/16 HoseBarb Valved InLine CouplingBody w/ Viton seal                                                       $17.26
         
LCD22005V - 5/16 HoseBarb Valved InLine Coupling Insert w/ Vito    LCD22005V - 5/16 HoseBarb Valved InLine Coupling Insert w/ Viton seal                                                                   $11.25

                                                                                                                   Sub-Total: $28.51
                                                                                                                   Shipping : $ 8.50
                                                                                                                        Total : $37.01
This is approx. 15-20 dollars cheaper than from the thieves, I mean sellers on EBAY.