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[Road_Glider]

Figured this would be a great place to get input on this question.  I ordered a '06 Road Glide and it should be in next month.  Been thinking on what to do to make it more fun.  Thinking I will go with a 103" motor instead of another 95" build as on the last RG.  Dealer is talking about just ordering a 103" motor from the factory in doing a swap out.  Says this will end up costing less considering the savings on the labor charges.

Anyway, since many of you here on this forum have the SEEG with the 103 curious on the things you did to your motors to wake them up and give them more torque and horsepower.  Looking to do more than just a stage 1 reflash and pipes.  Looking for input on other upgrades, their costs and the results.  Dyno sheets would be great if you have them.  Wanting the motor to be hassle free and completely reliable so not looking for anything out on the edge.  My riding style is cruising and usually run between 2 grand and 4 grand on the tach.  I usually cruise at 70 which on my old bike had me at exactly 3 grand on the rpms and bike had real good passing power at that rpms.  Anyway thanks for your input and help.  Road Glider

ps I know it would have been cheaper in the long run (and better at resale time) to just buy the new CVO Ultra but that bike just did not get me excited and I know I really like the ride and feel of the RG.

[Fatboy]

RG,

Why stop at a 103 and then spend more time and money tweaking it?

I'd look into a Zipper's 120 kit for your stock twin cam 88 or just sell/trade your dealer your stock motor and tranny and go with something like a TP 124" with a Baker 6 Speed. Ballpark for the TP & Baker combo $12k and if your dealer gives you $5K+ for your stock motor and tranny the new combo would be tough to beat for the net dollars invested.... [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

Good luck with your decision.

[MAVERICK]

Yo road glider!! I am with you on the ride and feel of the glide. I had a 03 road glide that I got ride of too get my 05 SEEG. I still want a road glide for a second bike. There are lots different engine builders to choose from with all kinds of information on the net. Of course this website is a real good place to start.  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]


All I can say is ride it like you stold it. Good luck!!  [smiley=banana.gif] [smiley=jalapeno.gif] [smiley=banana.gif] [smiley=jalapeno.gif]

[Tonys]

Jims 120" comes to mind...sold at H-D dealers. Zippers performance has some neat stuff. Ask Hubbard how reliable his bike is...if your going to spend the money on an engine swap at your dealer, get the cnc heads, gear drive cams, bigger throttle body, race tuner, 2 into 1 exhaust like the V&H Pro pipe, and you should be 115++ hp and still reliable. Check out the dyno sheets thread...read the info in this section...there are 6 pages of good stuff. Let us know what you decide. [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[shovelhead71]

the Boarzilla is one awesome horsepower building monster if you have the engine work to make her bark - consider any passenger that you make tote along - DEAF if they do not wear ear plugs or 3/4 helmet - with an engine that makes this work - it is LOUD and builds decilbles - have had one on my bike for some time now & it ROCKS - the workmanship and quality of this pipe is TOP NOTCH.
as far as the RINEHART tru duals the deliema continues after 1 month of waiting for a warranty rear header pipe from those people - was told a week ago 2 more weeks before a replacement pipe - just called and now its another 2 weeks - what a hel- of a way to run a business - can you even believe they advised that I could have the hole welded up to run it - talk about 1/2 a-- chit - anyone that welds is already shaking their heads at this advise - DUH rinehart - why not just JB WELD it shut - better idea - why not just refund my money back - they were only a month old for crying out loud - vent is clear and going to have an MGD

[HUBBARD]

Yeah, 'er 'uh, shovelhead,
 Whoa, there, Bro!  [smiley=drink.gif] Try to look past the fog that ol' MGD has settled in on you, and let Ol' Hub assist you in seeing more clearly.  Gerald Rinehart sold his design and Name to BUB'S.  BUB'S obviously has ramped up production, which, more times than not, sends quality out the window.  Be that as it may, I thought my Engine Builder had accidentally left the bolt loose on the rear support bracket of my RINEHARTS, so I tightened it.  This rigid condition caused the tab to break out, completely.  My fault.  To be honest, I talked chit, too, until I was made aware that bolt was supposed to be hand snugged only, not wrench snugged.  As mine are Jet-Hotted, I went ahead and welded the tab back on, tested it, and reinstalled, with the bolt hand snugged.  Quite frankly, it would work well with no bolt in it at all!  That was well over a year ago.  No worries.  Now, Shovel, go weld the tab back on your RINEHARTS, and get in the Breeze!  Yeah, 'er 'uh, without the MGD's, of course.  If you had one flat tire on your Pick-up, would you do away with all four tires, and buy new ones?  Hell no, you'd fix it!  You know 'em RINEHARTS sound good!  There endeth the lesson.  [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif] Later--HUBBARD        

[Unbalanced]

Wow Sorry Shovel that your still going through it .. My pipes (Fat Cats arrived today and will be installed tomorrow)

Road_Glider,

I would not give up my base motor though because when you want to sell the bike or possibly trade it in without a harley motor or cases you will not get harley to buy it back just something to keep in mind if that is a route your used to taking.

As far as this build up goes I would not go to the 103 if I were doing this again.   I would look to things like 124 from S&S, 116 build from S&S applied to stock 88 motor, a Zippers 120 motor and or a Jims 120 motor or a Kendall Johnson built motor as another alternative.   Now the questions to raise are do you want more torque / equal balance or more HP based top end.

If you go this large you need a better EFI system Zippers, Horsepower Inc, S&S, Kuryakin

You will want cams  S&S 625, 640, Andrews 59G or other, Woods yada yada Gear Drive

You will want to either buy the heavy belt for side cars or consider Chain Drive but it can get messy with the lube all over.

Transmission do you need a 6 speed well depends how you ride and if your going to gear the bike to run like a rocket off the line and then want the 6th gear to compensate for the 21 tooth front sprocket.

Are you going to put a 37 tooth gear on for the clutch.

Your going to need a better clutch such as a Variable Pressure Clutch or a Rivera Pro Clutch to handle the power your going to put out.

Next consideration is who will do your heads, your not going to go this far and not spend money on doing the heads makes no sense so then you have to decide rideabilityand longevity ...do you want 10.5 to one or slightly higher so pick your pistons wisely as well as the compression you want out of the motor.

While considering that also consider better lifters / Reed Valve / Zippers Chim maybe an S&S oil Pump vs Stock

Personally I went the way of the 124" S&S with the zippers fuel injection,  640 Cam and S&S internal components as a complete block with the Baker 6 Speed R2 tranny and the 21 tooth counter sprocket and chain drive and River Pro Clutch and a rear 51 tooth sprocket and all i can say is it was fast.  137 horse and 139 ft torque the hallowed dyno sheet is posted somewhere in the dyno sheets.

Stuff to think about

[WFP]

If you had one flat tire on your Pick-up, would you do away with all four tires, and buy new ones?

[GC_Super]

The way I heard it was Harley uses different sources for their starters, so the bracket doesn't line up the same on every install. All you need is the correct size spacer, then tighten it up all you want.  Luckily, I got this info just before I installed some Rinehart duals, and sure enough, I had a little gap between the bracket and the starter.  If I would have just tightened it up, I'm sure mine would have cracked also. This is supposedly a known issue with Bubs. All they would have to do is include a notation and spacer. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[spydglide]

I received the notation and spacer w/ my Bub Reinharts.  Still cracked.   [smiley=furious.gif]   Arrrrrrgggh!!   spyder

[GC_Super]

Bummer.  It's been over a year since I bought mine. At least they started mentioning it. [smiley=7.gif]

[GC_Super]

Road Glider, I just re-read you post.  You say you want a reliable, cruising type motor and usually ride between 2 and 4K rpm.  A well built 95 motor will do that easily.  I also would say that if your going to spend labor money on a crate motor, I would just build you a stroker with your cases. There are so many options.  One of the tech guys over on HTT who is an HD tech for 30 years, has said that the Jims 120's  right out of the box are probably the smoothest motors [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] he has ever done.  He just said they had a dyno day and the stock 120's did about 110hp and 115 to 120 tq.

[Road_Glider]

Thanks for all the replies.  Some of the ideas I would consider a little radical for what I am after.  For now I think I will stick with just putting in the same 103 motor as in the '06 ultra, add a race tuner (essentially a stage 1, without actually paying the price of the stage 1,  with perhaps some more tuning later) and some pipes and see how that goes.  I have to keep in mind resale since I am one that doesn't keep 'em forever, at least that has been my history.  Plus I had hoped to get it all done for 3K and I will be at 4K with the motor swap (parts and labor installed) plus I still have to add the pipes, the race tuner and the oil cooler on top of that.  So already over the budget.  Later I might change out the cams but for now will stick with it exactly as built by HD and as installed in the CVO Ultra.  Heck that should make for a nice running bike, and there will still be a few clams left to get something for the wifey before I go broke.  .   Later, RG

[Road_Glider]

Road Glider, I just re-read you post.

[kbiforce]

Road glider, Check out the last 2 months American Rider for Joe Minton's 95" build. The cam of choice is the Andrews 21. I have it in my 103 and I  love it. Personally, I don't think taking a 95' and swapping it out to a 103 is worth the effort. A well running 95" with the 21's rolled away from me when I had the stock cam in mine. After the cam swap, we were dead even until 95 mph or so. The bigger valves from the SE heads must have been the difference. It's up to you.  Don't have a dyno sheet to show, sorry. I've heard the 21's called baby cams and was told I was going backwards in power. It maybe lower in hp, but it rocks when passing and climbing hills! JMHO!!!