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Author Topic: When to Re-Flash  (Read 1304 times)

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hwyfever

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When to Re-Flash
« on: October 05, 2005, 03:35:24 PM »

Hey guys!  I'm new here, but have been lurkin for a little while.  Great site and love the focus.  Got the tip for this site from HTT...

I know this is probably a very simple question... but how do you know when you need to flash the ECM after doing upgrades?  

I just completed installation of the SE A/C (29440-99C) and SE Pro Perf Slip Mufflers (65115-98B) on my 05 SEEG 103".  The A/C Kit says to recalibrate to prevent a lean condition, but after installation I rode the bike and it seems to run better than ever - pulls strong and no popping on decel, etc.   So do I  need to take it in to the dealer?

Next, I'm considering a cam and SERT, and was thinking the SE 251 looks like a good cam for my riding style --  100+ mile loops on weekends, staying generaly around 1500 - 4000 RPMs.  Will this be a good fit and how will it compare to the 253 thats in it?  

Any help is appreciated.

Bill

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HD Hyd Cam Plate Conversion, Zippers Red Shift 575, SE Adjustable Push Rods
SE Race Tuner, Zippers Highflow Air Cleaner, S&S True Duals, Bub Stealth 7,
Progressive Monotube Cartridge Forks, Progressive 940 shocks

What I fear most when I die is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her I paid for it.

Unbalanced

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2005, 05:29:18 PM »

First off welcome to the site,

Typically the bikes run lean from the factory to begin with therefore you just made it even leaner and I would highly recommend that even though seat of the pants feels good you have no idea how its running.   I would take it to a dyno and get a real answer before you do any damage or possible damage to the bike.

I am guessing your going to be buying a racetuner or a power commander soon :)

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103_RK

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2005, 06:40:57 AM »

I think I'd buy the race tuner.  When I installed my SE air cleaner and pipes, the dealer told me I had to have the stage 1 remap.  The bike ran worse after.  At least if you have the race tuner, you can adjust the deceleration and richen up the mixture if it does not run as expected.  If I had it to do over, I would buy the race tuner first.  It is cheaper in the long run as you will most likely make additional changes and need to change the fuel later anyway.  Of course you could use a power commander or other brand instead of the race tuner.  There are many maps for most applications for sale ad hdmaps.com.  More maps seem to be available for the race tuner than the power commander.
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103 RK
2003 FLHRSEI2

h2o-man

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2005, 02:31:38 PM »

I've got a 2006 SE Ultra with 1600 miles on it. My first step was to change out the stock pipes. I replaced them with Screamin Eagle slip-on's I have laying around. I then installed a power commander. Guess what, No maps available for the 06 SE. So I found one that closely mapped and downloaded it. Took it to Iron Thunder in Raleigh and had Brian modify the map to clean up a few flat spots. His dyno is on order, so I then took it my local dealer for a baseline dyno run. First pass was 82 hp and 90 ft lbs torque. Then changed out stock air cleaner element for K&N. Next pass 85.5 hp and 94 ft lbs. A/F line looks like a flat line across board from 2k rpm's up to rev limiter at 13.7.
Fuel appears to be perfect, hp and torque are pathetic. I checked with the MoCo to see if this particular model has an ECM upgrade installed, they stated it has a not for sale propriatary stage 2 download already installed. I guess my next steps will be to replace the stock air cleaner with a crossed flag SE Air Cleaner and then dyno again. I'd like to save the cost of a set of Freedom true duals or Rineharts, but maybe I will have to ask Santy Claus for them. I cant believe the MoCo professes 100 ft lbs of torque when a well tuned one only produces  94. They must be measuring at the crank.
Don't misread me, I dont ride in the 5500 rpm range where the peak hp occurs, most of my riding is under 80 mph, and mostly between 45 -70 mph  two up. I am just a bit disappointed in the numbers.
Any thoughts......
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Unbalanced

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2005, 07:46:01 PM »

Harley does all of their baselines from Crank not real wheel.   Are you coming to Biketoberfest?   If you are you could probably talk to a guy down there who will be across from the new Ormand Beach Harley Davidson out by 95 / US 1.    The problem is without seeing a dyno or how it was tuned it is very hard to make any judgements on the way it was tuned due to ECM / EPA changes the bike itself and if the guy messed with the timing or just A/F ratios.

Did you get a dyno print out you could post?
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h2o-man

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2005, 08:27:04 AM »

I will indeed be coming to Biketoberfest. Making a hard 500mile blast down I-95 on Friday and leaving on Monday. I'll look him up. I do have a printout of the dyno run and can pull the Power Commander infor off my pc. I don't however have a fax or a scanner, so I am limited in how I could post the dyno sheet.
I think she's tuned properly, probably the air cleaner (Stock Screamin Eagle, not crossed flag version) that is the culprit. Not enough suck to create the proper bang. I think the blow part is probably suffecient.
She pulls as hard as I need, just not what I expected. Look for me there
NC tag H2OMELN.....
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Tonys

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2005, 09:49:50 AM »

Quote
Hey guys!
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grc

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2005, 01:41:23 PM »

Quote
Hey guys!
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hwyfever

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Re: When to Re-Flash
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2005, 08:09:47 PM »

Thanks guys for the response...  

I bought the SERT and have an appointment with the Dyno at a local dealer.  I don't like to use the dealer for such things, but these guys have been doing dyno pulls for a long time and I have not heard any complaints.  In the meantime, I will resist going for long rides... which is not going to be easy...  :(

So this brings me back the the cams in these CVO 103s.  I read where the 253 cams that come stock are basically made to pass the EPA and not much else.  I looked at the SE Catalog and the SE 251 looks to be a good performer based on my riding style and set up.  Has anyone had any experience with these or other cams for the CVO103?  

Oh Jerry, what brake pads are you thinking about.  HD has never made really good brakes and I would like to upgrade

Oh will it ever end....
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HD Hyd Cam Plate Conversion, Zippers Red Shift 575, SE Adjustable Push Rods
SE Race Tuner, Zippers Highflow Air Cleaner, S&S True Duals, Bub Stealth 7,
Progressive Monotube Cartridge Forks, Progressive 940 shocks

What I fear most when I die is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her I paid for it.
 

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