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[Vosselman (NL - Europe)]

Be carefull when installing HID (Xenon) into the stock headlamp unit:
- as mentioned above some of the starter/ballast units cause noise in other electronics
- some of the xenon bulbs cause a grey/blackish color onto the reflector
- most of the bulbs in a non HID headlamp will result in a faint light pattern
(you see this a lot on cars also. When parked in front of a garagedoor, the light should have  a very clear horizontal pattern/line. No light above the line, all light below the line. Xenon in a lot of cases will cause a BIG spread.)
The best is to use a headlamp unit that is designed for HID/Xenon.

[1abastarsmda]

Set I installed I ran the main power back to the battery to reduce voltage drop. The headlight wiring is used to swicth on the relay.


 
     Brad

Okay Brad...you lost me already.  You ran the main power back to the battery???  What am I to consider the main power?  Are we talking about splicing something?  The headlight wiring is used to switch on the relay???  What headlight wiring and what relay are you talking about?  If you keep confusing me like that, I may show up in Erie with an HID kit in my hands and a puzzled look on my face.  Yes, a different puzzled look than my normal puzzled look.

[hdbrad03]

Okay Brad...you lost me already.  You ran the main power back to the battery???  What am I to consider the main power?  Are we talking about splicing something?  The headlight wiring is used to switch on the relay???  What headlight wiring and what relay are you talking about?  If you keep confusing me like that, I may show up in Erie with an HID kit in my hands and a puzzled look on my face.  Yes, a different puzzled look than my normal puzzled look.

OK let me start over. The set I installed was on a Roadglide so it contains 2 H4 bulbs that switch from high to low. So when so turn on the ignition the relay picks up and fires both lights. So main power is ran from battery to relay to balast. The headlight wiring pickup the relay and switches the lights low to high.

Ultra will have to unique light circuits for the high and low beams. I would still power lights from battery to relay to balast.

Be glad to help install.


 
       Brad

[1abastarsmda]

OK let me start over. The set I installed was on a Roadglide so it contains 2 H4 bulbs that switch from high to low. So when so turn on the ignition the relay picks up and fires both lights. So main power is ran from battery to relay to balast. The headlight wiring pickup the relay and switches the lights low to high.

Ultra will have to unique light circuits for the high and low beams. I would still power lights from battery to relay to balast.

Be glad to help install.


 
       Brad

I'm only going to install one for the low beam on mine.  It took me a while, but I finally realized that I can always add the high beam at a later date, and at that point, the installation should be a real snap, since it's my second time around.

I was really hoping that by this time, someone with the same exact bike as mine would have done this same install, and posted it all, pic by pic, and step by step, of what setup ends up working perfectly...like showing exactly where to secure the ballast and where to tie the wires to and where to run the wires too, etc.  Did I mention that I like paint by numbers also?  Anyway, if I grab a conversion kit, I'll give it a shot and when I get stuck, I'll be on the forum looking for a bailout.  Or I'll just put it all back together and call you and let you know I'm on my way to Erie.     Dave

[Twolanerider]

Dave, with most of the aftermarket kits this is an easy task. The digital ballasts are small and make mounting no great concern. Wiring is then no moe difficult than taking the ground from the headlight plug to the ground on the input to the ballast and the high or low beam power from the headlight plug to the power lead on the input to the ballast. If you're doing two ballasts use the one ground to both ballasts.

[1abastarsmda]

Dave, with most of the aftermarket kits this is an easy task. The digital ballasts are small and make mounting no great concern. Wiring is then no moe difficult than taking the ground from the headlight plug to the ground on the input to the ballast and the high or low beam power from the headlight plug to the power lead on the input to the ballast. If you're doing two ballasts use the one ground to both ballasts.

So, to translate, are you saying that I don't have to run any wires to the battery?  Just a simple plug and play inside the fairing and throw it all back together?

[Twolanerider]

The HD branded kit has a home run back to the battery to and if I remember correctly a relay added. The digital kits have less power draw and can run straight off the headlight power. It's not quite plug and play as their bare ends won't directly plug in to your headlight socket. I never cut the OE socket though. Some of the kits come with parts to crimp up a pigtail to plug into that socket. If they don't I spend an extra ten bums at the parts store and get pieces to make one. Then the whole thing really does become plug and play.

[1abastarsmda]

The HD branded kit has a home run back to the battery to and if I remember correctly a relay added. The digital kits have less power draw and can run straight off the headlight power. It's not quite plug and play as their bare ends won't directly plug in to your headlight socket. I never cut the OE socket though. Some of the kits come with parts to crimp up a pigtail to plug into that socket. If they don't I spend an extra ten bums at the parts store and get pieces to make one. Then the whole thing really does become plug and play.

I think the "light bulb" just went on in my head.  Instead of plugging the wire that was on the back of the headlamp(the original power source) to the ballast, it can be replaced with a wire that runs from the battery direct to the ballast.  From what you are saying, on our bikes, this isn't really necessary to do and I can just run it from the headlamp power that was available stock...although technically, the better install would probably be to run the power direct from the battery to the ballast, with a relay built into that connection.

Do I have the concept correct now?

[Keats]

This ended up to be one of the easiest installs on the bike.
I also had 2 bulbs so I just ordered a kit from a car conversion.
I got 4 bulbs 4 ballasts and did not have modify wiring.
the only thing that was a little difficult was locating 2 ballasts under the fairing.
You would think there is lots of room under there (wrong!)
I did not get the "mini" ballasts, so I located both on top of the radio.
I expected problems, but they did not surface.
I have been using them for almost 2 years and no issues.
because I bought the car units I had 2 spare bulbs and ballasts in case of a failure.

A great addition  ( I bought the 6K white/blue)

[Twolanerider]

I think the "light bulb" just went on in my head.  Instead of plugging the wire that was on the back of the headlamp(the original power source) to the ballast, it can be replaced with a wire that runs from the battery direct to the ballast.  From what you are saying, on our bikes, this isn't really necessary to do and I can just run it from the headlamp power that was available stock...although technically, the better install would probably be to run the power direct from the battery to the ballast, with a relay built into that connection.

Do I have the concept correct now?

I think you do.  With some of the kits the power draw is large for initial ignition that a heavier feed through a triggered relay really is a good idea.  With most of the digital ballasts, however, it's just not necessary.  Power one ballast with the yellow low beam wire to the headlamp and the other ballast with the high beam wire.  Use the headlight ground for both of them or take them to a chassis ground somewhere.  It really is that easy.

[Twolanerider]

I did not get the "mini" ballasts, so I located both on top of the radio.

The physically smaller digital ballasts make this easier.  Their power requirement is generally a bit less.  I've never felt one of them get warm and have with some others.  They cost a bit more but seem to be worth it.

[1abastarsmda]

I think you do.  With some of the kits the power draw is large for initial ignition that a heavier feed through a triggered relay really is a good idea.  With most of the digital ballasts, however, it's just not necessary.  Power one ballast with the yellow low beam wire to the headlamp and the other ballast with the high beam wire.  Use the headlight ground for both of them or take them to a chassis ground somewhere.  It really is that easy.

Thank you!

[skreminegul07]

I have seen a lot of posts on HID headlamps, but I'm not getting what seem to be the straightforward answers that I was hoping to find.  The issues seem to be who to buy what product from, will the lamps cause interference with other electronics on the bike and how can that be avoided, should both high and low come on together when on high beams and how do you make this happen, what brightness level should be purchased for the brightest white light, and what is the solution to get the passing lamps to closely match up in light color.  So the questions are:

     1.  Where should I buy my HID headlamp from?
     2.  What exact part # should I purchase?
     3.  What brightness level should I buy to produce the brightest white light?
     4.  Does the HID lamp cause interference with other electronics such as the radio?
     5.  If yes to #4, how can the interference be avoided?
     6.  Should the high and low beams come on together when the high beams are activated?
     7.  If yes to #6, is there a special way to wire them?  Please explain.
     8.  What part(s) are needed to closely match the lighting color of the HID with the passing lamps?

I'm trying to find a solution that works so I don't have to go through the trial and error method that it appears many have gone through.  My time is very limited these days, and I'm not going to start this project until I'm confident that this is going to work correctly the first time.  I realize that without headlamps, I'm also without a bike, so I hope someone will share the information to a seamless installation.  Thanks!

Just installed two kits for mine.  The high beam makes little or no difference when turned on.  You could leave the halogen for the high beam unless the color of the bulb matters.  I went with the Xtralights, digital2.  They are small and easy to set up, using the bulb connector and nothing else.  I had the TuneTrapper internal fairing antenna and it would not work anymore when the HIDs were on.  I used the 4300 as you can see from the chart Neal posted, they are the most effective.

[jerdawg]

hi everyone, i installed the 6000 bulbs in my 09, 55watt low beam, 100watt high beam, love them on the back roads i ride, only ? is on the wiring . did anyone find a connector to plug into the factory harness without splicing?

[Twistedrider]

I have seen a lot of posts on HID headlamps, but I'm not getting what seem to be the straightforward answers that I was hoping to find.  The issues seem to be who to buy what product from, will the lamps cause interference with other electronics on the bike and how can that be avoided, should both high and low come on together when on high beams and how do you make this happen, what brightness level should be purchased for the brightest white light, and what is the solution to get the passing lamps to closely match up in light color.  So the questions are:

     1.  Where should I buy my HID headlamp from?
     2.  What exact part # should I purchase?
     3.  What brightness level should I buy to produce the brightest white light?
     4.  Does the HID lamp cause interference with other electronics such as the radio?
     5.  If yes to #4, how can the interference be avoided?
     6.  Should the high and low beams come on together when the high beams are activated?
     7.  If yes to #6, is there a special way to wire them?  Please explain.
     8.  What part(s) are needed to closely match the lighting color of the HID with the passing lamps?

I'm trying to find a solution that works so I don't have to go through the trial and error method that it appears many have gone through.  My time is very limited these days, and I'm not going to start this project until I'm confident that this is going to work correctly the first time.  I realize that without headlamps, I'm also without a bike, so I hope someone will share the information to a seamless installation.  Thanks!

08 CUSE with the Dual Headlamp - the low beam is always on and the Hi beam switches in/out.


Changed the low beam H11 bulb to HID with the following at 4300K Crystal White; You can get cheaper, but I liked the digital and small size of the unit.
http://www.xtralights.com/xetronicdigitallightingsystem-h11typesingle.aspx

With the kit you get a connector to attach to the existing Low Beam connector.
I left the Hi Beam as is.

I swapped the spotlight 881 bulbs with Luminics Hyper White 881 bulbs - Not exact but a very close match to the HID

http://www.luminicsbulbs.com/hyper_white.php

Did not have any problems with interference - Garmin GPS,Radar detector, XM and radio all worked as before.
Hope this helps.