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Author Topic: 120R or build from scratch?  (Read 12024 times)

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Indianlover

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120R or build from scratch?
« on: September 21, 2010, 03:21:47 PM »

I have a black FLHTCUSE limited. I want more go, maybe 40% more. I ride 2 up and spend most of my time at 2-3500 rpm. I'm after low end torque and it must be a reliable machine when I'm done. Do I buy a 120R and do headwork and upgrade the bottom end or do a large inch build from scratch including cases? I was interested in a Jims but have heard about too many poor service issues. Opinions please. Jeff
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HD Street Performance

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2010, 03:43:02 PM »

So far looks like good bang for the $
If it holds up....
Switch cams for a little more grunt. TW408-6 or TW8-6
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Indianlover

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2010, 05:25:20 PM »

What is your opinion on modifying the heads and different piston to get the compression back up then a cam to suit?
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HD Street Performance

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2010, 03:13:49 PM »

Why?
No need to do that. It starts at 10.5/1 static. Either of the cams I mentioned would suit very well but the 408 would need a valve spring change and roller rockers at bare minimum, geometry fixed better yet.
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tennisman

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2010, 03:52:52 PM »

Go get a Kawasaki stock 125" mill -  I have one - rock solid reliability and 135 ft-lb torque (with stock intake, PCIII, and Roadhouse slip-ons).  They come on the VN2000 bikes.

 http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2007-kawasaki-vulcan-2000-classic-lt-ar11057.html

T
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16HD117

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #5 on: September 22, 2010, 05:10:40 PM »

Go get a Kawasaki stock 125" mill -  I have one - rock solid reliability and 135 ft-lb torque (with stock intake, PCIII, and Roadhouse slip-ons).  They come on the VN2000 bikes.

 http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2007-kawasaki-vulcan-2000-classic-lt-ar11057.html

T

Replace a 10 Ultra Limited with a Kawasaki????
 :nervous:
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Life's journey is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out shouting Holy Chit......... What a Ride!


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hogasm

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #6 on: September 22, 2010, 07:27:14 PM »

Replace a 10 Ultra Limited with a Kawasaki????
 :nervous:

Well you wouldn't have to spend another 10k to get it running properly. :huepfenlol2: :huepfenlol2:
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tennisman

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #7 on: September 22, 2010, 09:49:40 PM »

Quote
Well you wouldn't have to spend another 10k to get it running properly. 

If you mean by "running properly" you mean add goodies like true cruise control, luggage, radio systems and such....yes, you would, but not $10K.  You also wouldn't have to spend 10k on a Jims motor either, and the reliability AND tractable power is already there in the Kaw in spades in stock form.

I love both my bikes, each for their own reasons.  I find the HD 110" with Stage I is plenty motor for touring, which is why I bought the bike and it hasn't disappointed me except a little in the reliability dept although I'm hopeful that part is behind me since my dealer fixed the starter and upgraded the compensator.  The HD is the best for long distance cruising, hands down.  The Kaw is best for raw torque for the east TN mountains (pulls top gear from 42 mph @ 1600 RPM uphill effortlessly).
T-man
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HUBBARD

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2010, 03:48:33 PM »

I'd punch that Motor, and go back with a Zipper's 120" Kit, to include their Heads and TB.  Ain't seen any Jim's 120's, or 131's, perform like my Zipper's.  There endeth the lesson.  :2vrolijk_21: Later--HUBBARD 
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2012 FLHTCUSE7  (Electric Orange/Black)  Built Motor (124), D&D "Borzilla" Exhaust, Tilley/K&N Air Induction,
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HOGMIKE

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2010, 04:49:10 PM »

If you mean by "running properly" you mean add goodies like true cruise control, luggage, radio systems and such....yes, you would, but not $10K.  You also wouldn't have to spend 10k on a Jims motor either, and the reliability AND tractable power is already there in the Kaw in spades in stock form.

I love both my bikes, each for their own reasons.  I find the HD 110" with Stage I is plenty motor for touring, which is why I bought the bike and it hasn't disappointed me except a little in the reliability dept although I'm hopeful that part is behind me since my dealer fixed the starter and upgraded the compensator.  The HD is the best for long distance cruising, hands down.  The Kaw is best for raw torque for the east TN mountains (pulls top gear from 42 mph @ 1600 RPM uphill effortlessly).
T-man

I was there last summer.......where are those mountains??? Never saw any, just some hills!
JUST KIDDING.
Some nice riding out that way!
 8)
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johnsachs

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2010, 05:27:38 PM »

I'd punch that Motor, and go back with a Zipper's 120" Kit, to include their Heads and TB.  Ain't seen any Jim's 120's, or 131's, perform like my Zipper's.  There endeth the lesson.  :2vrolijk_21: Later--HUBBARD 

I'm not so sure about that.............. ;D
Here's a Jim's 120 I did a while back.Actually I've done several in this range.  ;)
John
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hogasm

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2010, 09:09:10 PM »

I'm not so sure about that.............. ;D
Here's a Jim's 120 I did a while back.Actually I've done several in this range.  ;)
John

My question is why buy a motor and then pay to have it done over instead of just building one right from the start :nixweiss:
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Indianlover

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2010, 10:25:12 PM »

That's my issue too. I'm afraid the stock 120 won't be enough without major headwork, then a different piston to get the compression back up, then cams, then beefed up crank, bearings and flywheel or whatever. I know going from a 96" to a 110" seemed about a 10-15% increase in power. If a 110" to a 120" is another 10 or 15% I wonder if the price for the 120 would be better spent on a custom built that I would keep and swap as I trade up in model years. I dunno, I just want to do it right the first time instead of "I wish". Buy a set of cases, axtell jugs, bomb proof crank, worked heads and recommended components to go with them?...
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #13 on: September 24, 2010, 06:47:22 AM »

As John has made mention,(his makes more :)) 120"s (4 1/2" S&S crank, 4 1/8" Axtell cylinders) have shown us 135/135, SAE. Good combination. Very straight-foward engine build.  :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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timtoolman

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Re: 120R or build from scratch?
« Reply #14 on: September 24, 2010, 08:51:20 AM »

why not the jims 131 then????   already built like the 120,  if your going to put more money in the 120 then buy the 131 and get more torque and  hp from the start with out going inside the engine.  there is a posting in this forum already from someone that just did that.  im thinking about it myself,  As far as service issues over  the 110 ?????   yeah  right,
« Last Edit: September 24, 2010, 08:59:44 AM by timtoolman »
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