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[HD Street Performance]

My information was rumor only. So until we have a confirmation who knows.
From the beginning this motor, my gut feeling, has been it is a bit like the rest of the performance gear offered by HD. There is the good and the not so good. In other words just like a lot of the stuff, HD=Half Done.
So consider taking the crank to Hoban and checking the tolerances on everything before loading it into the bagger.

[erniezap]

For me, looking at the torque curve on this motor, I wouldn't want it on a bagger as the torque doesn't really kick in until 3500-4000 RPM.  I'll stick with building a motor before buying something like this one.  Timken bearing, welded and balanced crank, gobs of torque starting at 2200-2500 RPM, etc.

[9 1/2 Beers]

Ernie

 Would you build a 103 or 110 or something else ?

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

For me, looking at the torque curve on this motor, I wouldn't want it on a bagger as the torque doesn't really kick in until 3500-4000 RPM.  I'll stick with building a motor before buying something like this one.  Timken bearing, welded and balanced crank, gobs of torque starting at 2200-2500 RPM, etc.

 
See post # 8.
Scott

[grc]

The information I read somewhere was that they used an "increased press fit" on the 4-5/8" stroker crank, no welding.  So you buy a crate engine assembly, and the first thing you need to do is tear it down and do the crank properly.  Hmmmmm.  Somehow that makes about as much sense as all the other stupid stuff H-D does.  I would certainly hope that if someone wanted to sell a true racing engine, versus just a bigger engine that doesn't meet emissions regs so let's call it "race only" to skirt the law, that they would build it with true racing quality components.  I wonder how many professional racers run a press fit crankshaft?


Jerry

[erniezap]

Ernie

 Would you build a 103 or 110 or something else ?

Would probably take a 103" and make it a 117" with Axtel cylinders and use the same cams, head work, throttle body, etc, as my 124". Love having 125 ft. lbs. torque at 2500 RPM!

[jagonza1]

outside California alot of dealer will install them and the ones that don't just take it to an aftermarked shop they will love to install it for you.

[jagonza1]

By the way.  I don't think most of us are running anywhere near epa legal. so I wouldn't wory to musch about that. and for the guys in california. please vote Arny out of office already. he had a real chance of ruining motorcycling for the entire nation.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Would probably take a 103" and make it a 117" with Axtel cylinders and use the same cams, head work, throttle body, etc, as my 124". Love having 125 ft. lbs. torque at 2500 RPM!

127 ft/lbs was just shown on Fuel-Moto's dyno, all in by 3400,(120 well under 3000) in a 107"/Wood 555 cams, our little 1.900" valve heads.
Scott

[TIF2]

For those getting quotes on the 120R are you dropping them in a CVO? Looking at the P&A it states the SE Race Clutch is no-go for hydraulic actuator - does your quote include conversion to cable?  Just wondering how they are going to make that work?

Anybody know anything or have experience with Barnett Scorpion clutches?

[faceracer]

I ran the Barnett Scorpion clutch in my 01FXDL. I also had put the HD hyd. clutch on it. I ran the heavy "GREEN" springs that are for drag racing. Even with the Hyd assist it was a hand full! I ran it with the cable clutch for awhile and it was awful in traffic! I tried every spring config until I was sure that it was not slipping and that lead me to use all the "Green" heavy springs. I have a friend who bought one for his 01 FL and never installed it. He sold the bike and I am guessing that clutch is still sitting new in the box. If your interested I will email him and see if he want to sell it. You might get a good deal! I think it was around $500 new. Let me know?  Face

[faceracer]

I ran the Barnett Scorpion clutch in my 01FXDL. I also had put the HD hyd. clutch on it. I ran the heavy "GREEN" springs that are for drag racing. Even with the Hyd assist it was a hand full! I ran it with the cable clutch for awhile and it was awful in traffic! I tried every spring config until I was sure that it was not slipping and that lead me to use all the "Green" heavy springs. I have a friend who bought one for his 01 FL and never installed it. He sold the bike and I am guessing that clutch is still sitting new in the box. If your interested I will email him and see if he want to sell it. You might get a good deal! I think it was around $500 new. Let me know?  Face

p.s. there is a special plate to lock the clutch when your torque the mainshaft nut. I have one and I am willing to loan it out to a cvo member.

[Flat Dawg]

I am running a 120R in an 08 FLHTCU, and thanks to Doc, the torque is at 110 ft lbs at 2.5k, maxes out at 131.84 around 4k RPM. Riding in everyday grocery getting conditions, the motor is very smooth and streetable, albeit a bit noisy on the top end due to the ramps and high lift. When I jump on it, no one in the pack can keep up, but I know there is always someone faster.

Total cost for the motor swap project was around $6500 plus a few miscellaneous hiccups here and there, and a good tune of course.

As others have said, there is a lot more power to be had from this motor with some head porting and a cam change-I'm just not rich enough to go any farther and am quite happy with the motor's performance. It already toasted a pro clutch.

[HD Street Performance]

That 266 has high lift but not a lot of relative overlap (wide LSA). This adds manors. By virtue of decent compression that motor actually does quite well in the torque department. For a lot of riders 100 torque at 1700 is a PITA IME. A little smoother coming on then lighting up like rocket is desireable. That is what this motor does.

As far as headwork I would:
REPLACE THE GUIDES
Correct the geometry
Lightly work the ports and flow balancing
Mill lightly and equalize the CCs

Add Baisley Corrected Geometry Rockers and Woods Directional Lifters, Smiths Pushrods

Done deal.
Cross your fingers on the bottom end and get a good clutch

[Unbalanced]

I am running a 120R in an 08 FLHTCU, and thanks to Doc, the torque is at 110 ft lbs at 2.5k, maxes out at 131.84 around 4k RPM. Riding in everyday grocery getting conditions, the motor is very smooth and streetable, albeit a bit noisy on the top end due to the ramps and high lift. When I jump on it, no one in the pack can keep up, but I know there is always someone faster.

Total cost for the motor swap project was around $6500 plus a few miscellaneous hiccups here and there, and a good tune of course.

As others have said, there is a lot more power to be had from this motor with some head porting and a cam change-I'm just not rich enough to go any farther and am quite happy with the motor's performance. It already toasted a pro clutch.

Flatdawg,

Which clutch did you put in after toasting the first clutch?   Pro Clutch didnt hold up well for me either