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[aftaylor]

My BSR was miserable this past Sunday from the heat, actually hotter than me.

I took the bike in this morning for the 1000 mile service.  Decided to have them put on V&H Dresser Duals, (they couldn't buy the Fullsac's).  I contacted Fuel Moto and they have sent me a Map for the Dynojet.  Hopefully these things help the bike run cooler.  I'll report back my finding next week.  Taking the lowers off alone has got to help!

[rheiner]

Get a Jagg 10 row horizontal oil cooler to replace the stock 6 row cooler. It's far more effecient than the stock oil cooler. The hot oil flows through the filter first, then the cooler. This is opposite of the stock harley cooler. For every 20 degree drop in oil temp, it doubles the life of your oil, according to Jagg. When I replaced my stock cooler with a Jagg, it dropped my oil temp 17-20 degrees.

[Widows Son]

I bought a Road Glide Ultra SE about a month ago.  I had the dealer install a set of V&H monster ovals slip-ons and a Dynojet Power Commander V module.  I still have the lowers on the bike.  Riding in traffic at Myrtle Beach the bike wanted to die, I believe because of the heat.  That issue maybe one of the cyclinders shutting down, which I understand is typical. The other issue is just the extreme heat. The three hour ride home from Myrtle Beach with a 90 degree day you could fry an egg on my right leg jeans.  I know removing the lowers will help a lot.  What else can I do or have the dealer do to get the bike to run a lot cooler?  The dealer is not very sophisticated, so details will be much appreciated.  I understand removing the catalytic conventer will help and there are ECM changes that can be made, but does anyone have specifics?

Real dumb question, but is it possible that your bike is set in parade mode or Engine Idle Management System (EIMS I think) where you may have accidentally set it. I think post 2009 it’s an automatic configuration but you can bypass and force it into single cylinder operation. (I believe the ‘08s had problems and there was a factory reprogram required). There are quite a few forums that explain how you set and unset it . Here’s one:

http://www.hdtalking.com/touring_models/6467-rear_cylinder_shut_down.html

In terms of running hot and the upgrades you have, don’t worry, once the calluses grow thick, you won’t notice the heat.

[aftaylor]

I had the lower fairing removed, removed the cat via V&H dresser duals and had a new map installed that Fuelmotousa emailed me.  The bike runs a lot cooler and has a lot more power.  I believe the motor was running way too lean before the remapping.

I just want to say thanks to Fuelmotousa for emailing a new map to me for free.

[Cvostu]

that was nice of them

[SteveO]

Asbestos pants and lots of "Monkey Butt" powder...............or a Goldwing !!

[Desert Jeff]

Make sure the rear cylinder cut-off is programmed to be ON.  This feature can be turned off or on.  The owners manual explains how to check and change the setting.  Hope this helps.

[ultraswede]

Here are my experiences re heat.

My sage 1 96" last year was running hot, not to the extent of being a rider problem,
but still hot.

For this season I built my engine, see sig.
This year the engine is running at a lower temp.
I found during V-tuning that the engine was hot again. like last year.
The simple remedy, that made a HUGE diff was that I set the "closed loop bias"
from.451 V (V-tuning) back to .781 V.

I am also running open loop 13,7/14,0 AFR, from 750 to 1250 rpm, all Mpa.
This make a big diff in idle heat, and the motor is stonger when releasing the clutch, compared to CL.

Those of you that use TTS, try this and See what you think.

NB, I still have my cat in place, runs cool and strong.
The cat is not the problem, it is heat from the cyl heads that roast you above "knee level"