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[Unbalanced]

  I haven't had time to take anything apart yet, but I'm thinking the same way.  I want to keep the bike (long enough for my grandson to ride it with me-and he's not 6 yet) so I want it to last, so I'm thinking I should do that just to be sure.

Skippy,

Have you considered putting in the late model version of the 120r for the older models 02-06 since you can do the R&R yourself it means you would only need a vpc for your existing clutch, and a throttlebody     Might be about a break even on cost and then you wouldnt have to worry bout having a really built motor "race" so to speak.   The newer model motor 120r runs pretty darn good in stock form

other considerations might be

I would definitely consider an r&r of the bottom end then from there >

Axtel 107 mountain motor kit with flat tops and 570 cams, mine without headwork made 120/107 tuned by doc with true duals and stock throttlebody.
I am sure we could have made considerably more power with some head work and a little compression say 10 to 1.   

Another good running motor is the 117 if you have the motor down its just a matter of cutting the cases then and adding a timken if your so inclined.

[CVOThunder]

Oh don't listen to him, he's unbalanced!!!  Good idea actually and I like the youtube video of the guy who put the 120R in his 2010 Ultra. You can really tell how it likes to take off. So many options and since I'm so hung up on this damn warranty thing, a completely different motor would be da chit. Where's my credit card and one of them 20% off places to shop from? WTF....guess I'm the unbalanced one. If I was there to ride it more I'd probably take the plunge.

[skippy49]

Skippy,

Have you considered putting in the late model version of the 120r for the older models 02-06 since you can do the R&R yourself it means you would only need a vpc for your existing clutch, and a throttlebody     Might be about a break even on cost and then you wouldnt have to worry bout having a really built motor "race" so to speak.   The newer model motor 120r runs pretty darn good in stock form

other considerations might be

I would definitely consider an r&r of the bottom end then from there >

Axtel 107 mountain motor kit with flat tops and 570 cams, mine without headwork made 120/107 tuned by doc with true duals and stock throttlebody.
I am sure we could have made considerably more power with some head work and a little compression say 10 to 1.   

Another good running motor is the 117 if you have the motor down its just a matter of cutting the cases then and adding a timken if your so inclined.

Not a bad idea but I want to stay with the stock "appearing" motor, so I'll most likely have the cyl's bored and new pistons of some type, have the heads worked a little, check the lower end or just send it off and have it "fixed" and go from there.  Then it ought to last me a long time.

[04screamin]

Not a bad idea but I want to stay with the stock "appearing" motor, so I'll most likely have the cyl's bored and new pistons of some type, have the heads worked a little, check the lower end or just send it off and have it "fixed" and go from there.  Then it ought to last me a long time.

That was the same reason I had my original motor done, wanted the factory look right down to the script on the heads with a lot more power.

[HD Street Performance]

Here is the dyno
What I know about the motor:
Pro Street CVO 103" Heads by me
Rinehart true duals
TR590 cam
10.5:1 CR, 103"+.010
Zippers TB

[04screamin]

Here is the dyno
What I know about the motor:
Pro Street CVO 103" Heads by me
Rinehart true duals
TR590 cam
10.5:1 CR, 103"+.010
Zippers TB

That is correct Don,

R&R (Balanced, Plugged & Welded Crank)
54MM TB

Temp was 95+ degrees here in Atlanta the day it was being tuned, plus the clutch was slipping on the dyno, circled on bottom of dyno sheet the rpm range of clutch slip.

I just installled the VP92T to fix the slipping clutch issue, still deceiding if I am going to put a 2 into 1pipe on it. I will update you with new dyno sheet if I change out the exhaust per tuners and your recomendations! I will also take it up 6500 rpms next time.

[HD Street Performance]

The VPC is not the only fix you will need for slip if you get a 2 into 1. Your low end torque will rise faster and that VPC really doesn't do much until 3,700. I suggest a Barnett extra plate clutch kit and their diaphragm spring plus the VPC
You are most likely are on the end of the delivery curve for the injectors right now. Consider larger injectors when the other parts are upgraded.

Drago seems to have the hot ticket for two into ones these days.
I would not expect a big jump in HP (5 or so) as the compression, 10.5, is set conservative for that cam (TR recommends 10.8-11.3) but the shape of the torque curve and the seat of the pants feel will be stronger right off idle. Plus with that CR and the heat you guys have you will have a practical long life build.

Funny thing many of the "experts" scorn these CVO 103 heads, "no squish"
They work well for me every time and they all pull hard on the top.

[skippy49]

I finally got time to tear into my engine.   The runout on the crank with the cam plate on was right at .002.   When I removed the cams and plate and rechecked, the runout was right at .006    I know when I put my S&S 570 gear drive cams in that the runout was around .0015 with the cam plate off so I'm assuming something has moved.  Would that be the general assumption, that my flywheels have slipped?  I'm not that knowledgeable about all of this so I'm asking.
   If that's the case, now I'll have to decided whether to tear it all apart myself or just ship the engine off to some one.  Not really sure what I'll do. I know I'll have to ship pieces off anyway so I may just ship the whole thing---kind of depends on how tired I feel.  Ha, this dry weather is getting old!
  Main thing I'd like to know now is if my flywheels have slipped.
Steve