Topic: Slipped Flywheel (Read 11882 times)

Sunman48 · « **on:** October 19, 2012, 11:17:21 PM »

I have a 2005 Electra Glide CVO with 58,000 miles. Per my earlier Post this week it was leaking transmission fluid. After tearing it down found the inner race had shifted on the shaft and was tearing up the seal, causing the leak. Had to take it to a shop to so they could weld a bead around the race to get a puller on it to remove. The shop called and said the motor was shaking excessively at idle indicating the front motor mount was out. I had changed at 36,000 miles. I told them to change it out while they had the bike there. This morning when I went to pick up the bike they told me the motor mount was not bad so they put my old one back on. Now the shop says that possibly the flywheels may have slipped slightly. Is this what is called scissored flywheels that I have seen in some posts? The bike runs fine and the shaking stops as soon as the rpms are above an idle. The shop owner says it may never get any worse and that it runs fine otherwise, oil pressure is perfect, etc. He said to ride it unless the shaking at idol gets worse or vibration starts while riding. I have never heard of this problem until I saw the scissored flywheels mentioned in some older posts on this board. Is this common on 2005s? Sorry for the long post.

Any info appreciated.

Sunman

DCFIREMANN · « **Reply #1 on:** October 20, 2012, 02:03:47 AM »

Yes you could have a problem. Have you had the cam tensioners changed yet?

If not let them check them, while they are doing that they can check crank run out!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Sunman48 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 20, 2012, 07:01:47 AM »

Quote from: DCFIREMANN on October 20, 2012, 02:03:47 AM

Yes you could have a problem. Have you had the cam tensioners changed yet? If not let them check them, while they are doing that they can check crank run out!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Thanks. I will have it checked.

Sunman

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #3 on:** October 20, 2012, 07:06:45 AM »

2004 88"ers seemed to be the worst of the 4" cranks, with the 2005 only about 1/2 as bad, from what we've seen here.
You man is right, the flywheel slippage issue is a fact, but something most Harley stores want to sweep under the rug, pretending as if that does not exist.
Follow his lead, as he sounds like he is giving you good advice, and is not attempting to alarm you.
IF, it is of grave concern, then you/he could contact Darkhorse Crankworks, Newton, Wis. (our only source for 1999-up crank work.)
Scott

prodrag1320 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 20, 2012, 07:46:37 AM »

ive not seen too many `05 with shifted F/W`s,like posted earlier,check your tensioners & while your in there,check the run-out.if your run out is .003 or less,go with a gear drive cam set up,if over .003,have the F/W`s re-trued (or better yet,get a 4.375" set & go 103") and then go with a gear drive set up

DCFIREMANN · « **Reply #5 on:** October 20, 2012, 08:59:43 AM »

Quote from: Hillsidecycle.com on October 20, 2012, 07:06:45 AM

2004 88"ers seemed to be the worst of the 4" cranks, with the 2005 only about 1/2 as bad, from what we've seen here.
You man is right, the flywheel slippage issue is a fact, but something most Harley stores want to sweep under the rug, pretending as if that does not exist.
Follow his lead, as he sounds like he is giving you good advice, and is not attempting to alarm you.
IF, it is of grave concern, then you/he could contact Darkhorse Crankworks, Newton, Wis. (our only source for 1999-up crank work.)
Scott

He has a 2005 SEEG!!!! That bike came from the factory with a 103 motor!!! As I sugested have the tensioners checked. While they are in there check crank runout!!!! Then he will know the real story.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Sunman48 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 20, 2012, 09:03:25 AM »

Quote from: Hillsidecycle.com on October 20, 2012, 07:06:45 AM

2004 88"ers seemed to be the worst of the 4" cranks, with the 2005 only about 1/2 as bad, from what we've seen here.
You man is right, the flywheel slippage issue is a fact, but something most Harley stores want to sweep under the rug, pretending as if that does not exist.
Follow his lead, as he sounds like he is giving you good advice, and is not attempting to alarm you.
IF, it is of grave concern, then you/he could contact Darkhorse Crankworks, Newton, Wis. (our only source for 1999-up crank work.)
Scott

Thanks for the reply. My bike is a CVO with the stock 103 motor.
I will check the run-out.

Sunman

cvobiker · « **Reply #7 on:** October 21, 2012, 09:59:52 AM »

after 2004 Harley started going cheap on the motor department and shifted cranks became a common issue. And yes,, Harley does continue to sweep it under the rug... They just blame in on modified motors.. i've never had a crank problem on any Harley i've owned prior to 2004. I've had three engines after 2004 with shifted cranks.. Harley replaced one of those engines twice and on the third i traded it... The guy that bought it, had the bike in the shop within a year after he purchased with a twisted crank... it was under warranty and Harley replaced the motor again.. With the amount of problems and great number of motors Harley replaces, why dont they resort back to stronger version they once built

Sunman48 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 21, 2012, 11:34:32 AM »

Quote from: cvobiker on October 21, 2012, 09:59:52 AM

after 2004 Harley started going cheap on the motor department and shifted cranks became a common issue. And yes,, Harley does continue to sweep it under the rug... They just blame in on modified motors.. i've never had a crank problem on any Harley i've owned prior to 2004. I've had three engines after 2004 with shifted cranks.. Harley replaced one of those engines twice and on the third i traded it... The guy that bought it, had the bike in the shop within a year after he purchased with a twisted crank... it was under warranty and Harley replaced the motor again.. With the amount of problems and great number of motors Harley replaces, why dont they resort back to stronger version they once built

So if mine has slipped (the bike still runs great right now) what is the solution? Does anyone offer a crank that is welded, keyed, splined or something to prevent the flywheels from slipping? If I keep this bike and rebuild the engine (if mine has slipped) I would not want to replace with a new crank with the same potential problem.

Sunman

TexasBowhunter · « **Reply #9 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:20:30 PM »

I had a buddy that had allot of vibration on his motor all of a sudden
he took it to a dealer hew trusted and showed then
The dealer felt like he had slipped F/W's
He then towed it back home and showed a Indy shop the bike and they felt it was slipped F/W's as well
I was able to work out an arrangement with the Indy shop to do some additional work to help make the bike bullet proof while they were going to go in there all while it was covered under his extended warranty...
The Indy shop finally had the bike and was starting to tear it down and discovered his SE Compensator had failed and was causing all this undue vibrations he was experiencing
They put the updated guts into it and all is good
FFT
paul

Twolanerider · « **Reply #10 on:** October 21, 2012, 12:31:35 PM »

Quote from: TexasBowhunter on October 21, 2012, 12:20:30 PM

I had a buddy that had allot of vibration on his motor all of a sudden
he took it to a dealer hew trusted and showed then
The dealer felt like he had slipped F/W's
He then towed it back home and showed a Indy shop the bike and they felt it was slipped F/W's as well
I was able to work out an arrangement with the Indy shop to do some additional work to help make the bike bullet proof while they were going to go in there all while it was covered under his extended warranty...
The Indy shop finally had the bike and was starting to tear it down and discovered his SE Compensator had failed and was causing all this undue vibrations he was experiencing
They put the updated guts into it and all is good
FFT
paul

The 05 bike doesn't have that type of compensator. Had the older far more bullet proof compensator that almost never gave any problem of any kind that was improved upon by the newer compensator that, itself, has then been improved upon several times because it keeps chitting the bed.

Sunman48 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 21, 2012, 09:20:51 PM »

Quote from: TexasBowhunter on October 21, 2012, 12:20:30 PM

I had a buddy that had allot of vibration on his motor all of a sudden
he took it to a dealer hew trusted and showed then
The dealer felt like he had slipped F/W's
He then towed it back home and showed a Indy shop the bike and they felt it was slipped F/W's as well
I was able to work out an arrangement with the Indy shop to do some additional work to help make the bike bullet proof while they were going to go in there all while it was covered under his extended warranty...
The Indy shop finally had the bike and was starting to tear it down and discovered his SE Compensator had failed and was causing all this undue vibrations he was experiencing
They put the updated guts into it and all is good
FFT
paul

Thanks. I was just in the primary and the compensator is OK. Will now have to open the cam case and check the crank run out.

Sunman

grc · « **Reply #12 on:** October 21, 2012, 09:31:06 PM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on October 21, 2012, 11:34:32 AM

So if mine has slipped (the bike still runs great right now) what is the solution? Does anyone offer a crank that is welded, keyed, splined or something to prevent the flywheels from slipping? If I keep this bike and rebuild the engine (if mine has slipped) I would not want to replace with a new crank with the same potential problem.

Sunman

You can send your crank assembly to a company called Darkhorse and they will rebuild it, true it, balance it, plug the crankpin, and weld it if that's what you want. I assume they can also sell you a complete new assembly with this stuff already done. http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/html/parts.html

Jerry

Sunman48 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 21, 2012, 09:35:19 PM »

Quote from: grc on October 21, 2012, 09:31:06 PM

You can send your crank assembly to a company called Darkhorse and they will rebuild it, true it, balance it, plug the crankpin, and weld it if that's what you want. I assume they can also sell you a complete new assembly with this stuff already done. http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/html/parts.html

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

Sunman

Lever · « **Reply #14 on:** October 22, 2012, 11:13:02 AM »

they also. 18 month unlimited milage warranty

Sunman48 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 22, 2012, 12:47:25 PM »

Quote from: Lever on October 22, 2012, 11:13:02 AM

they also. 18 month unlimited milage warranty

Thanks Lever.

Sunman

prodrag1320 · « **Reply #16 on:** October 22, 2012, 07:52:12 PM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on October 21, 2012, 11:34:32 AM

So if mine has slipped (the bike still runs great right now) what is the solution? Does anyone offer a crank that is welded, keyed, splined or something to prevent the flywheels from slipping? If I keep this bike and rebuild the engine (if mine has slipped) I would not want to replace with a new crank with the same potential problem.

Sunman

we use a EDM machine to burn a .250 hole thru the pin/wheel then press in a pin & weld over it.been doing this on drag race F/wheels WAY before twin cams where even thought of.they wont move after this

Sunman48 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 22, 2012, 08:22:39 PM »

Quote from: prodrag1320 on October 22, 2012, 07:52:12 PM

we use a EDM machine to burn a .250 hole thru the pin/wheel then press in a pin & weld over it.been doing this on drag race F/wheels WAY before twin cams where even thought of.they wont move after this

Thanks. I will talk to my shop about this.

Sunman

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #18 on:** October 23, 2012, 06:46:19 AM »

Not many outfits have an EDM.
Scott

prodrag1320 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 23, 2012, 07:39:33 AM »

we do,its actully more commenly called a EDM "hole popper".not used in intricate mold making like most EDM machines,buts perfect for burning perfect holes in very hard materials & burning out broken bolts or taps

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #20 on:** October 23, 2012, 10:58:21 AM »

Handy item.
We've sourced a local Tool & Die shop(they ride) on rare occasions, if/when that need surfaces.
Handy item to have indeed.

Scott

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #21 on:** October 23, 2012, 11:05:51 AM »

Quote from: prodrag1320 on October 22, 2012, 07:52:12 PM

we use a EDM machine to burn a .250 hole thru the pin/wheel then press in a pin & weld over it.been doing this on drag race F/wheels WAY before twin cams where even thought of.they wont move after this

We used to weld the shaft to the nut, then weld the nut to the wheel half, once locked up.
Once torqued to 450 ft/lbs., then welded, they'd stay put for us, but then again, we were only running "parts washing fluid" in our racer.

Scott

Sunman48 · « **Reply #22 on:** October 31, 2012, 12:23:00 PM »

Can anyone tell me how to check the crankshaft run out or how to tell if the flywheels have slipped? Any pictures? I need to go ahead and check this out. The service manual doesn't seem to cover this unless I just missed it.

Thanks,

Sunman

Unbalanced · « **Reply #23 on:** October 31, 2012, 04:31:28 PM »

Check this video out

Sunman48 · « **Reply #24 on:** October 31, 2012, 06:45:36 PM »

Quote from: Unbalanced on October 31, 2012, 04:31:28 PM

Check this video out

Thanks! Good info.

Sunman

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #25 on:** November 01, 2012, 06:54:31 AM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on October 21, 2012, 11:34:32 AM

So if mine has slipped (the bike still runs great right now) what is the solution? Does anyone offer a crank that is welded, keyed, splined or something to prevent the flywheels from slipping? If I keep this bike and rebuild the engine (if mine has slipped) I would not want to replace with a new crank with the same potential problem.

Sunman

While we build/balance, and re-build/balance pre-1999 bolt-togather cranks here, and have for decades, using S&S Master Crankshaft Tooling,(just did a little 45" Flathead crank yesterday, for a client from Maryland) we release the press-togather crank assembly work to Hoban Bros./Darkhorse Crankworks, Newton Wisconsin.
Once they are completed with the needs of any given crankshaft, any pre-existing issues with that, will be put in the rear-view mirror.

Scott

Sunman48 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 01, 2012, 07:26:21 AM »

Quote from: Hillsidecycle.com on November 01, 2012, 06:54:31 AM

While we build/balance, and re-build/balance pre-1999 bolt-togather cranks here, and have for decades, using S&S Master Crankshaft Tooling,(just did a little 45" Flathead crank yesterday, for a client from Maryland) we release the press-togather crank assembly work to Hoban Bros./Darkhorse Crankworks, Newton Wisconsin.
Once they are completed with the needs of any given crankshaft, any pre-existing issues with that, will be put in the rear-view mirror.
Scott

Thanks Scott.

Sunman

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #27 on:** November 02, 2012, 06:14:56 AM »

Your welcome.
Scott

Sunman48 · « **Reply #28 on:** November 02, 2012, 03:07:06 PM »

OK. I don't want to beat this to death but, I need help. I have a trip planned the end of next week and until a week ago I never heard of slipped fly wheels! The indy shop (well recommended) that resealed my primary says he is almost positive that I have slipped fly wheels due to the motor vibration at idle. He checked front motor mount etc. but all is OK there. Today I called him back to see if he could check it out to tell me for sure this is the issue but the Republic of Texas Rally in Galveston is going on and he is out of pocket until Tuesday. One of his helpers tells me they have to pull the cam cover, trans cover and top end to check to see if the fly wheels have slipped. I don't know if he knows what he is talking about or not. I am pretty mechanically inclined having earned my living years ago as an auto mechanic and have done a lot of work on my bikes but never to this extent. Can any one tell me how slipped fly wheels can be diagnosed? Does the whole engine have to be torn down?

Appreciate any help!

Sunman

Eqcons · « **Reply #29 on:** November 02, 2012, 03:10:01 PM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on November 02, 2012, 03:07:06 PM

they have to pull the cam cover, trans cover and top end to check to see if the fly wheels have slipped.

He doesn't know what he's talking about. Cam cover yes, but not the trans cover, and not the top end.

Jim

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #30 on:** November 02, 2012, 03:48:10 PM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on November 02, 2012, 03:07:06 PM

OK. I don't want to beat this to death but, I need help. I have a trip planned the end of next week and until a week ago I never heard of slipped fly wheels! The indy shop (well recommended) that resealed my primary says he is almost positive that I have slipped fly wheels due to the motor vibration at idle. He checked front motor mount etc. but all is OK there. Today I called him back to see if he could check it out to tell me for sure this is the issue but the Republic of Texas Rally in Galveston is going on and he is out of pocket until Tuesday. One of his helpers tells me they have to pull the cam cover, trans cover and top end to check to see if the fly wheels have slipped. I don't know if he knows what he is talking about or not. I am pretty mechanically inclined having earned my living years ago as an auto mechanic and have done a lot of work on my bikes but never to this extent. Can any one tell me how slipped fly wheels can be diagnosed? Does the whole engine have to be torn down?

Appreciate any help!

Sunman

Cam cover, and cam plate, which would require the pushrods/upper rocker covers to be pulled, needing the tank to be juggled around on the frame, or removed altogather, then a dial or test indicator to be mounted to witness/record(we record this here on each clients work order) the pinion shaft movement.
Fueling manufactures a part # 9015 that actually bolts to the face of the cam chest area with 2 thumb screws, and makes it a snap to check.
If that is good, nothing saying that the sprocket shaft's C/L is OK, and by rights, should also be checked.

Scott

Sunman48 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 02, 2012, 04:41:51 PM »

Quote from: Eqcons on November 02, 2012, 03:10:01 PM

He doesn't know what he's talking about. Cam cover yes, but not the trans cover, and not the top end.

Jim

Thank Jim. So how can it be checked?

Sunman

Eqcons · « **Reply #32 on:** November 02, 2012, 07:54:05 PM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on November 02, 2012, 04:41:51 PM

Thank Jim. So how can it be checked?

Sunman

Pretty much as Scott says - cam cover and cam support plate then a dial guage on the end of the crank. No need to disturb the top end though - bolt cutters to cut the pushrods, then fit adjustable pushrods when you're done.

Jim

Sunman48 · « **Reply #33 on:** November 02, 2012, 10:30:13 PM »

Quote from: Eqcons on November 02, 2012, 07:54:05 PM

Pretty much as Scott says - cam cover and cam support plate then a dial guage on the end of the crank. No need to disturb the top end though - bolt cutters to cut the pushrods, then fit adjustable pushrods when you're done.

Jim

Thanks again Jim. That is what I thought but I was getting a different story from the shop. I thought it could be checked by pulling the cam cover and cam plate but wasn't sure. I have been into the cams myself when I replaced the cam chain tensioners and at that time cut the push rods and replaced with adjustable push rods. I recently opended up the cam case again to check the tensioners. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary dial indicator or experience to check the run out.

Thanks,

Sunman

Eqcons · « **Reply #34 on:** November 03, 2012, 06:13:51 AM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on November 02, 2012, 10:30:13 PM

Thanks again Jim. That is what I thought but I was getting a different story from the shop. I thought it could be checked by pulling the cam cover and cam plate but wasn't sure. I have been into the cams myself when I replaced the cam chain tensioners and at that time cut the push rods and replaced with adjustable push rods. I recently opended up the cam case again to check the tensioners. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary dial indicator or experience to check the run out.

Thanks,

Sunman

Nice and easy then if you've already got adjustable pushrods. I'd imagine a dial gauge would be quite cheap in the US, and it's just a matter of rigging something up to hold it in position on the end of the crank, and turning the back wheel in gear to make it rotate.

Jim

Twolanerider · « **Reply #35 on:** November 03, 2012, 12:59:49 PM »

Quote from: Sunman48 on November 02, 2012, 10:30:13 PM

Thanks again Jim. That is what I thought but I was getting a different story from the shop. I thought it could be checked by pulling the cam cover and cam plate but wasn't sure. I have been into the cams myself when I replaced the cam chain tensioners and at that time cut the push rods and replaced with adjustable push rods. I recently opended up the cam case again to check the tensioners. Unfortunately I don't have the necessary dial indicator or experience to check the run out.

Thanks,

Sunman

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust. Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

sadunbar · « **Reply #36 on:** November 03, 2012, 03:18:16 PM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on November 03, 2012, 12:59:49 PM

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust. Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

Sunman48 · « **Reply #37 on:** November 04, 2012, 01:09:03 AM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on November 03, 2012, 12:59:49 PM

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust. Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

Thanks!

Sunman

Sunman48 · « **Reply #38 on:** November 04, 2012, 01:10:07 AM »

Quote from: sadunbar on November 03, 2012, 03:18:16 PM

Thanks!

Sunman

efrbc1 · « **Reply #39 on:** November 04, 2012, 11:25:49 AM »

Been following your saga as I have an '05 SEEG. Mine has almost 40K. Original front motor mount was replaced (by me) long ago with the "newer" style. The newer motor mounts are made from a harder material and the first thing I noticed was a significant increase in vibration/motor shake at idle. Smoothed right out as soon as bike was brought above idle. Put up with this for waaaaay too long and finally changed to the Glide Pro mount (complete system). Problem solved.

With 58K on yours I'm fairly certain you do not have the "original" front mount in there. I didn't catch if this problem was ongoing or something that happened following a recent service but from what I've read, it seems like this started following transmission repair and you noted they did do something with the front motor mount. If this is the case, that is where I would start looking. I put gear drive cams in mine at 12K (bought the bike used with that on the clock) just to eliminate the cam chain worries. Crank was well within spec for runout and no problems since. The '04 - '05 SEEG 103 was (and still is) one of the best motors HD ever built. Unless the bike has thrashed, I would find it hard to believe your crank whas slipped - and all of a sudden. I would look elsewhere unless you have reason to focus in on the crank.

Chris

Sunman48 · « **Reply #40 on:** November 05, 2012, 06:24:25 AM »

Thanks for the reply Chris. I replaced the front motor mount myself at 36,000 miles. Don't know if it is the new style or not. The motor was shaking badly at the time and when I took the old one out it was bad. Motor has been shaking (at idle) badly for some time now, way before the trans seal repairs. and the shaking toned down with the new one installed. Shop owner suspected front motor mount but it was OK. Top motor mount assy is OK. Only thing to do now is open up the cam case and check the run out.

Sunman

efrbc1 · « **Reply #41 on:** November 05, 2012, 07:18:52 AM »

Chances are you put in the "new" style motor mount - which will increase the shake at idle. You say the shake "toned down" after replacement. Has it gotten worse since? Does the shake continue once you come off of idle? I would at least try a new/different front mount before going through all the hassle of checking crank runout. MUCH easier/cheaper and you may find your problem.

Chris

grc · « **Reply #42 on:** November 05, 2012, 09:02:01 AM »

There are three mounts, not just one in the front. Has anyone checked the two rear mounts and the powertrain alignment? This is a critical area on the older bikes with the single front mount, and if folks just replace a failed front mount without also checking and neutralizing the rear mounts and then checking/correcting the alignment they can find themselves with more vibration, not less. (The rear mounts are the rubber bushings on either end of the swingarm pivot btw). Just a thought.

Another thought is to check all the easy stuff first, like any grounding out of parts to other parts, like brake pedals to pipes, other parts to the frame, etc. The engine tends to shake qujite noticeably at idle, so what seems like good clearance with the bike shut down may not be when the engine is shaking at idle. Just another thought.

Jerry

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM · « **Reply #43 on:** November 05, 2012, 03:08:23 PM »

Another nearly-free option is to bolt a piece of 3"X3" steel flat stock to the engine cases, on the face of the cam chest area, and mount a magnetic-base equipped indicator to it, and then position the indicator to check pinion shaft TIR.
1 clearence hole for a 1/4" screw needs to be drilled in order to complete this magnetic base mount.
Scott

Sunman48 · « **Reply #44 on:** November 05, 2012, 09:28:44 PM »

Quote from: efrbc1 on November 05, 2012, 07:18:52 AM

Chances are you put in the "new" style motor mount - which will increase the shake at idle. You say the shake "toned down" after replacement. Has it gotten worse since? Does the shake continue once you come off of idle? I would at least try a new/different front mount before going through all the hassle of checking crank runout. MUCH easier/cheaper and you may find your problem.

Chris

Chris, the shop installed a new motor mount but it did not stop the shaking so they put mine back in. Still, it might be a good idea to try another one just in case.

Thanks,

Sunman

Sunman48 · « **Reply #45 on:** November 05, 2012, 09:31:11 PM »

Quote from: grc on November 05, 2012, 09:02:01 AM

There are three mounts, not just one in the front. Has anyone checked the two rear mounts and the powertrain alignment? This is a critical area on the older bikes with the single front mount, and if folks just replace a failed front mount without also checking and neutralizing the rear mounts and then checking/correcting the alignment they can find themselves with more vibration, not less. (The rear mounts are the rubber bushings on either end of the swingarm pivot btw). Just a thought.

Another thought is to check all the easy stuff first, like any grounding out of parts to other parts, like brake pedals to pipes, other parts to the frame, etc. The engine tends to shake qujite noticeably at idle, so what seems like good clearance with the bike shut down may not be when the engine is shaking at idle. Just another thought.

Jerry

Jerry, I checked the rear motor mounts and looked for any items "grounding". So far I haven't found anything that has solved the problem.

Thanks,

Sunman

skippy49 · « **Reply #46 on:** November 16, 2012, 03:19:30 AM »

Quote from: Twolanerider on November 03, 2012, 12:59:49 PM

Find someone who has done a gear drive conversion and has their original cam plate collecting dust. Then cut the cam plate in half, drill a couple holes, get a cheap dial indicator and, voila, nearly free tools.

Thanks, good idea. I'll be cutting my old plate soon!

Author Topic: Slipped Flywheel (Read 11882 times)